The Absence of Bibi and the Question of Rain - Naboisho, Nairobi NP and Meru in December 2013

[Peter Connan]

Hope you get better soon!

 

Love your work.

[Atravelynn]

"And in the afternoon we met the new guests at the camp and told them all about the lions just to get their guide stressed. I can be bad sometimes." Shame on you.

 

Funny how the water bottle appears and disappears. Exciting and successful warthog hunt! Fantastic playful lions.

[pault]

Time to begin the last six nights at Meru National Park, a destination to which I have long wanted to return and my wife agreed - but she did have the small condition that we had to stay at Elsa's Kopje. So that is why it had taken us seven years to return!

 

In the wet Meru is very pretty but can be a bit "now you see it, not you don't"...

 

 

 

 

We had to fly to Meru at 9.15 on a Sunday, and so decided against doing anything in the morning. Just breakfast at the lodge and then drive straight to Wilson. We almost got held up at the park entrance with cars two abreast at the gate trying to get in for a Sunday drive, but managed to get through after a bit of pleading and shouting.

I was feeling wobbly, as if I had mild heatstroke, but that wasn't possible and since I didn't feel sick I put it down to last night' swine not agreeing with me and decided to suck it up. I didn't want to rain on my wife's return to Elsa's Kopje - she had been talking about it for months. Naturally, having rushed, we were there ages before the plane actually left. I had fruit juice rather than coffees while we were waiting since I thought maybe too much coffee was partially responsible for how I felt.

The flight was half empty and uneventful except for some bumps and one of the passengers loudly spotting Kilmanjaro out of the he window. I immediately missed Bibi. I'm not sure what it was that she saw, since Mount Kenya appeared to be well hidden by clouds. Anyway, she was happy and that's what counts.

We were the first stop luckily, and our guide John was there to meet us with his very comfortable Elsa's Kopje Landcruiser. They have added a small table for beanbags and ground pods on the middle row, of which height can be adjusted. I would normally have been very interested in this but I just wanted a sit down.

John had seen a cheetah on the way to the airstrip and so, just as at Naboisho our first task was to find a cheetah. That perked me up a bit, but just as at we were not successful... yet.

The drive to Elsa's Kopje seemed much shorter than I remember it, probably because the grass wasn't chest high, the roads weren't covered in water, and there were no detours to take to avoid the worst of the rutted black cotton soil. The weather was quite dry, but of course very cloudy. We would be having rain for sure this time, having mostly dodged it in Naboisho, and I just hoped it wouldn't be torrential.

We arrived, to be greeted by the relief managing couple. One thing about traveling at this time of year is that there is a very good chance you won't meet any of the regular managers. I was feeling tired, and for some reason I decided to hold my camera by the grip on the camera body. Absolutely nothing wrong with that if you have a normal lens on it, but in preparation for an active cheetah I had put the Sigma 120-300/ 2.8 on it and, fatally, the 1.4x teleconverter. As I reached the table where we were to have our briefing, I stopped but my lens just kept on going. All mouths opened together, but Pieter reacted first and managed to break it's fall. Still, it hit the cement floor with a sickening thump, with little screws flying right and left, and various English, Thai and Dutch (Pieter's partner is originally from Holland) expressions of pain and distress.

My new lens! The damn thing had fallen apart. I felt sick.

But then I looked again and saw it was the teleconverter that had come apart. Some relief. And fortunately Pieter was a photographer himself, and better still, one of those guys who takes things apart just so they can put them together again. My first groggy instinct was to see if he the lens still worked, but Pieter correctly stopped me since I would only get dust on my sensor and it would take a little while to test if the lens was still focusing properly. Instead he checked the glass was still all in alignment, and it seemed to be, and we began picking up the screws that had been ripped out. Then he took the teleconverter off to the office where he has a set of tools..... and he put it back together again.

In the meantime I had tested the lens on the camera and it seemed all right. That was miraculous enough, but it was even more miraculous to come to lunch and be handed the teleconverter back in one piece. Of course it might not work as well as before, but the fact that this had happened where I had a professional camera repairman in hand... well, if that isn't the gods smiling on me, I don't know what is.

I later discovered why the lens had survived - the big hood had taken the brunt, and was no longer quite circular. No problem - we went off to Pieter's office and after 10 minutes had something that fitted the camera again - although it still isn't quite round.

I didn't use the teleconverter for the next two days as I hadn't actually intended to use it at all. I have a 400 prime and a 70-400 zoom for my Sony, so it was only for low light emergencies and for situations where I needed the 5dmkIII's superior tracking ability and that length. However, the light got so weak with the rains moving in that I was using the Canon most of the time, and so in the end I tried the teleconverter, and it worked!! It didn't work perfectly all the time, but it definitely got the job done. Pieter, my hero.

There, just like me at the time. you have now forgotten all about Meru. And now, like me at the time, you can refocus and wonder what is to come.

We spent six nights here, so I won't go day by day. There was some repetition of routes and wildlife, and apart from one full day down to Adamson's Falls we stuck to a routine if breakfast out, back for lunch and then out again from 4 until dark. One day we came back early because of an imminent thunderstorm, but amazingly we did not get wet. Everyone else in the park did, but the storm swept right in front of us and then right behind us.

Prepare yourself for some green scenes. Despite officially being an arid park, Meru is blessed by multiple rivers and rains are pretty reliable. It is very, very green during and after the rains.

We stayed in the same room we had in 2006, but in the meantime they had almost doubled its size, to add another bed for a child. We actually liked the cosy old room better, but it's very, very impressive now, and still beautiful.

Yippee, yay! Joy at our return.

 

Fit for a queen

 

 

 

The room and balcony are used by hyraxes and lizards. Unfortunately it gets a doom spraying every evening so we couldn't enjoy the insect life so much this time. Even a caterpillar that had decided to undergo metamorphosis attached to our floor was removed before I got a chance to tell the room boy (he's not a boy obviously but that's what his job position is - with job description being a combination of butler and maid) to leave it.

 

A few pictures from our first evening and first full day, with camera restrictions. It was very difficult getting used to all the green and the Canon's meter freaked out - I had to do big adjustments from purple to green on all shots because the Canon's meter just couldn't believe the green wasn't a colour cast, and kept on trying to correct it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found the cheetah the morning after we originally looked.

 

 

Cheetah, tree and Elsa's Kopje (the kopje, not the lodge).... ahame they weren't arranged a bit differently, but you take what you can!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 27, 2014 by pault

[pault]

I was going to get to that, since there were a few more elephants than expected, and so I have a few nice photos this time. However, I am sure I can think of something else to say about them, so no harm in responding now. As you know, they generally do move out of the park during the rains, and last time (same dates) we saw very few - literally just. a couple of bulls. However, this time there were a good number of bulls (never more than three together but regularly seen) and we saw three breeding herds too. However, the biggest herd was only 12 or so strong, so you could surmise they had spread out. They were almost all in the north of the park, where you saw them or even further out north and west. The salt licks were reliable for bulls. John was pleased (for us) but not excited to see breeding herds at that time of year, which is certainly very different to 2006.

 

Safaridude and Gamewarden will probably see a golden Meru and more of the colours you are used to. John reckoned the grass would be dying back by late January or early February since it was a relatively (although not exceptionally) dry year. Of course it could have rained a lot after we left, but John didn't think that was likely (he's been guiding there about 10 years so he knows the place pretty well).

[Safaridude]

Just caught up with this. @@pault 

 

As usual, exceptional photos and intriguing write-up.

 

Nairobi National is an underrated gem rights now, isn't it? It's surrounded by humanity and buildings… it doesn't make sense!

 

Meru does look green… but will be less green when I get there. There hasn't been much rain there since mid-December, so it will be more like August. Nice lesser kudu photo.

[pault]

@@Safaridude Nairobi National Park was very nice indeed. Ii also wonder....how?

 

And again to everyone, apologies for the typos and general dropping of standards - still recovering from being very under the weather and my concentration levels are low. But writing this up is a lot better than sitting in front of the TV..... I am nearly well now, so things should gradually improve and I'll draft properly before posting!

 

Did you all notice I drafted and edited most of the Naboisho part?

 

No?

Edited January 27, 2014 by pault

[Sverker]

@@Safaridude Nairobi National Park was very nice indeed. Ii also wonder....how?

Did you all notice I drafted and edited most of the Naboisho part?

Sure I did, very well done, Pault !

[twaffle]

I immediately felt at home seeing your Meru photos, I love that place no matter whether green or brown. It just has that history and wildness that I like. Love the kudu photo and how fortunate to see the cheetah. Beautiful photos, expect nothing less.

 

How long before you felt well again? Miserable to be ill when on safari. And how lucky to have Pieter in camp!

 

Looking forward to more news from Meru.

[pault]

@@twaffle I was fine by the end of the next day and really didn't feel that bad even the rest of the day of the camera disaster. Safari is a tonic.

[SafariChick]

@@pault I am just now catching up with this trip report after having read the beginning a while ago. What a treat your reports always are, and this one is no exception. I just finished the post with the lion cubs in their "nest" and the tyre - particularly loved that one and contrary to your characterizations, the photos are way more than okay! I really feel like I am there - and yes, what a privilege to be allowed to see the lions in their nest, or lair perhaps. Ok, diving back in for more!

[Atravelynn]

Your camera did a great job on those Meru photos, even catching the impala midair. Hopefully it continued to work for the rest of the trip.

[TonyQ]

@@pault

How lucky to have a camera-repairman!

Lucky for us - we are getting some great pictures - interesting to see a green Meru (I have actually only seen Meru through Safaritalk)

[pault]

@@pault I am just now catching up with this trip report after having read the beginning a while ago. What a treat your reports always are, and this one is no exception. I just finished the post with the lion cubs in their "nest" and the tyre - particularly loved that one and contrary to your characterizations, the photos are way more than okay! I really feel like I am there - and yes, what a privilege to be allowed to see the lions in their nest, or lair perhaps. Ok, diving back in for more!

Hahaha.... Yes, I chose nest due to its association with vampires actually, as well as certain other associations,, such as a snug and warm house... those juveniles were little bloodsuckers for sure. I considered "lair" and it's good too (a bit of alliteration as a bonus!) but "nest" was what the fingers typed and I went with it. :-)

 

And thank you @@SafariChick

[pault]

@@pault

How lucky to have a camera-repairman!

Lucky for us - we are getting some great pictures - interesting to see a green Meru (I have actually only seen Meru through Safaritalk)

Me too with certain parks in Zambia and Zimbabwe. That's the great thing about having the trip reports with photos embedded isn't it? You can get these really strong impressions of parks without even actually having been there.

 

@@Atravelynn... it will continue to work, thank you.

[pault]

Still not very well, but I better struggle on to the end.

 

Before I continue with our various sightings and very minor adventures, let me tell you a little bit about Elsa's Kopje in case you haven't heard of it. I am not going to recommend that anyone stay there since I quite probably wouldn't stay there myself if I weren't continuously lobbied by my wife. ;-) However, it is something of a benchmark for tasteful luxury lodging in the African bush and worthy of note and comment. Since I generally consider lodging to be something of lesser importance, and there are many thousands of places that I haven't been, you may not want to take my view too seriously, but I can't see how any place could be better if you want bush comfort, except by having hundreds of elephants crossing the plains below.... but then that wouldn't really be the lodging anymore would it?

 

Elsa's Kopje on the right hand side of Elsa's Kopje - a kopje so called (I am told) because George Adamson used to climb it to call Elsa the lioness when he had been away for some time - and there certainly is quite a view.

 

 

 

The difference between Elsa's Kopje and elsewhere are things that can't be easily reproduced, like how they built the rooms around the rocks and trees on the Kopje, so there is a rock protruding into this room, or a tree growing up through that one (the manager's house now, or at least while we were there, probably because it is next to a footpath and so gave rise to those rarest of things at Elsa's Kopje - a complaint about the accommodation). I've only seen half the rooms and some to me are better than others but they all have their own little advantage. There is a room that I didn't think was special at all, but I learned this time it is built to face the sunrise, so you can watch the light racing over the hills and across the plain in the morning. The occupant came running to tell me, he was so excited (and he didn't even know me beyond the usual introductions the evening before)!The use of irregularly shaped branches for door frames and window frames is done elsewhere, but it is fantastically well done at Elsa's Kopje. Some of the windows are practically art. It's all a bit special, and it has special people too; many of whom have worked there for years and make the place run like clockwork, but never too perfectly. The staff are well trained but their personalities still come through clearly. Somebody forgot to put a knife and fork at our table one dinner, and I was smiling all through the soup because I knew the reaction to this "disaster" would be an experience in itself. It was - thank you Alex for just the right amount if drama, and for the overdramatic checking of cutlery at our table at following meals. Service that makes you smile.

 

Looks very, very landscaped and it is (much more than I'd prefer); but look again and you'll see not perhaps as much as you thought.

 

Back outside, it was clear from the skies that the weather was only going to get worse and so John suggested we do our trip down to Adamson's Falls as soon as possible. We wanted to drive along the river and return via Elsa's Grave (just because that is the circuit, rather than specifically to visit Elsa's Grave again, although it is a truly beautiful spot when the park is green). Unfortunately, John informed us, KWS had not maintained the track along the river that made that circuit possible. He said he was disappointed himself as it was his favorite drive, but things had changed with park management when the former warden was removed and it seemed this route was considered not worth maintaining since it was rarely used. Kora also may be in that category nowadays, as KWS have done nothing to further it's development since the heady days of former wardens when the road down there and bridge over the Tana River were built. I imagine you could argue "buffer zone" or "dispersal zone" but it seems a big for that. I suppose that it is from time to time a little dangerous, or at least not certifiably safe.

We left early on the 2+ hours drive down there, so we could have breakfast by the river rather than the more normal lunch. After a short delay to dash north to see the cheetah (I was wrong to place it on the second day - it was the third - and we'd never normally interrupt our plans so much, but a cheetah in Meru in the green is a minor event) we got going. The road down to the Tana River is pretty smooth and well maintained, and cuts through very thick bush. You'll see little on the drive, but it's one of those drives that just might throw up something very unexpected, since the thick bush could mean the very quiet road is attractive as a path for all sorts. In 2006 we saw three cheetahs and John confirmed that this was the sort of thing that happened sometimes and he always kept his eyes open. However, once we entered the woodland this time our sightings were limited to a couple of very shy Lesser Kudu, a warthog, a few baboons crossing the road, some dik diks (plenty of dik diks), a large number of hornbills, a few squirrels, and a Golden-breasted Starling. Pictures aren't a great help in this case since most creatures were gone before you could say "Oh, what's that?" Closer to the lodge we saw the ubiquitous Reticulated Giraffes and had a good sightings of Vulturine Guinea Fowl on both the way there and the way back.

 

 

 

What does "ubiquitous" mean?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty lady in a hurry (I call it that because otherwise I have this tendency to call them all "he" without thinking)

 

 

It's probably not a route that I would do if I were in Meru for three nights, but on a longer safari it is different, interesting, and makes perfect sense to me. I love it and I don't really know why. Adamson's Falls are just some brown rapids, but the river and noise is impressive after a certain amount of time in the bush and there is the novelty value of using the picnic spot on the Kora side, so technically you have visited Kora National Park (see Kora hyraxes below!!). And although it is a very remote spot, the road, the bridge, the picnic table and the rangers post at Kora mean it's the least "wild" excursion you could make, while at the same time being the opposite. It's really "Let's go have a picnic by the river" ... with a twist.

 

The British Army appears to have been under the impression there might be more than three cars a week passing through - or perhaps such signs are simply compulsory in the UK?

 

 

I guess not many people do the trip nowadays, as the picnic tower has been converted to a midden and sleeping spot by those Kora Rock Hyraxes. It stunk a bit but we didn't really care. Great to get our of the vehicle, walk around (run if you like, but the ground is rough and you'll probably fall over) and then go for an after-breakfast stroll along the river to the top of the falls. This was easy in 2006 but debris from floods since then that KWS haven't bothered to clear (and they have let the road to the Meru side return to nature - possibly because after the floods they thought everyone should have picnics in he the tower so they wouldn't get washed away if it happened again) makes it less than straightforward to find a way, and a bit of clambering, ducking and maze-solving was required to reach the top of the falls. Achieved by brain more than brawn though, and the heavy cloud and quite early hour meant it wasn't too hot.

 

Bridge and tower on Kora side.

 

 

Kora NP wildlife

 

 

 

Searching for a way through

 

 

 

We got back to the Lodge in time for a late lunch, with the rain moving in, but by the time we had eaten and relaxed for a while the weather had cleared, and so we decided that our tentatively planned walk up to the top of the Kopje was definitely on. We were guided there by one of the staff, Moses, who took some sundowners with him, just in case. And they were needed. There are beautiful views from up there, right across Meru to Kora and out of the park to the west. It's a fairly easy climb up (a steep, hot walk, really) and after an hour on top we decided to come down and have sundowners at a hidden/ abandoned bar behind the restaurant, where you have a very nice view of the sunset and some hyraxes for company. Such a lazy day it seemed, but we'd done quite a bit of walking and clambering, so we felt we deserved the double dose of sundowners.

 

From rain at lunch, to a beautiful evening....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roughly west....

 

 

 

And roughly south-west (I think the drive down to Tana River starts on the road heading out of the picture, and I believe the drives to Elsa's grave and the Ura Gate - don't ever bother with that - unless my memory is faulty).

 

 

 

And a similar view from a safer height for the barman's industrial-strength sundowners. You'd need to have been there, but there was a hyrax sitting in a tree beside us watching this, calling out every now and again. Nice.

 

 

Edited February 9, 2014 by pault

[Soukous]

You have certainly brought Meru to life for me @@pault - some great sightings and stunning landscapes.

Hope you are feeling less poorly, although it is probably not a bad time to be off the streets of Bangkok.

[pault]

Riverside scene

 

 

 

Would anyone care to identify this? The catch I mean, not the Pygmy Falcon.

 

 

 

Meru has of course a fenced rhino sanctuary, where quite a number of rhinos have been moved for protection. Originally, at the time of the great rebirth of Meru, the intention was eventually to populate the park, but nowadays it seems "eventually" might really be a long way off.The fenced area has now been doubled in size and takes a fair chunk of the best grazing and browsing areas. If such growth continues, eventually maybe the sanctuary will become the park! I'm more than a little uncertain about the idea of fencing off such a big piece of the park. While it is certainly important that KWS protect Kenya's rhinos, and the idea that they have a massive space to roam is appealing, and probably essential, you can't say the park is not affected, and you can't say the other animals are not affected. Later, I'll tell a rather sad story that unfolded while we were there (two stories in one in fact). For now, it's enough to say animals must move or struggle badly in this area, because I want to dwell on the positive side - fat, cavorting, happy rhinos by the half-dozen. "There's no guarantee of seeing the rhinos" said John, but there is certainly a high probability if you ask the right ranger. After half an hour we'd seen eight, and we stayed with five of them for an hour or so.

 

We would have stayed longer, but for our small issue for that morning - John's battery was having real problems. Before you tut too much (and John would admit some tutting is in order) you need to know that Elsa's Kopje has gremlins, and sometimes there are mysterious vehicle issues. I managed to get a photo of a gremlin:

 

There are hundreds of hyraxes on the Kopje and many liked the safety of the camp, where predators are loathe to thread. Then some of those that liked the camp found some really nice crevices to sleep in. They were lovely and warm and so they didn't have to sun themselves quite so much to get up to speed in the morning; and that was just as well because if they didn't get out if there pretty quick they might end up on a unscheduled trip that wasn't safe at all. John told us that sometimes when they start the engines in the mornings a dozen fluffy balls come flying out, and one time he even had a hyrax emerging from his engine at breakfast - that will be one very lost hyrax. Of course staff try to stop it, but I guess it isn't easy, and the hyraxes have been known to do a bit of damage.

Anyway, whether a hyrax urinated on his wires or pulled a cable out of position, John had started the day with an almost flat battery. At our first stop, we had not been able to restart, but we were first out of camp and got a jump from the next vehicle leaving. Then we ran the vehicle for a while (not too much of an imposition because we were heading for the rhino sanctuary some way away anyway) and it seemed to be doing all right. We stopped and restarted a few times without incident. Unfortunately, while we were following the five rhinos above, the engine would not restart. Nobody was going to come this way (there were probably about 5 vehicles total in the park that day and we knew two of them were doing drives to and from airstrip) so there was nothing for it but for John to get out and push and then try to jump back in and get the vehicle started. But there was too much friction from the damp ground and after two attempts I told John he would need to let us do the pushing. He was not happy about that with the rhinos just 20-30m away, but they were very happy with the short roadside grass, and we convinced him to let us. We got started no problem like that but decided we'd better begin heading back towards the kopje.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 9, 2014 by pault

[Soukous]

That last photo should really be in 'show us your bums'

[TonyQ]

@@pault

Good to pick up on this again

I really like the riverside scene - and great rhino pictures

really helpful report on Meru!

[egilio]

Looks like a black-shouldered kite to me. Great thread, loving the stories and pictures.

[pault]

Looks like a black-shouldered kite to me. Great thread, loving the stories and pictures.

Is it? I had it down as a kite, but then became convinced it was a Pygmy Falcon. I am sure you are right as after three weeks of two, different hacking coughs I have the concentration span of a toddler at the moment; and my raptor ID skills suck at the best of times. Thanks!

 

Please everyone, correct any errors. There are bound to be some.

[twaffle]

Glorious Meru landscapes, a real filip to the day.

 

Love your rhino horn tusslers.

 

I hope there are more Meru stories to come.

[egilio]

 

Looks like a black-shouldered kite to me. Great thread, loving the stories and pictures.

Is it? I had it down as a kite, but then became convinced it was a Pygmy Falcon. I am sure you are right as after three weeks of two, different hacking coughs I have the concentration span of a toddler at the moment; and my raptor ID skills suck at the best of times. Thanks!

 

Please everyone, correct any errors. There are bound to be some.

 

 

It's a bit of an odd angle, but with a pygmy falcon I would expect to see the spots in the wing on this picture. A pygmy falcon is a really small bird, way smaller than a European kestrel, while a bs kite is a bit bigger than a European kestrel.

[ZaminOz]

@@pault

Really enjoying your writing and images of Meru. A park that I have always wanted to visit.

[pault]

On 2/11/2014 at 11:53 PM, egilio said:

 

On 2/10/2014 at 1:14 AM, pault said:

 

On 2/9/2014 at 8:03 PM, egilio said:

Looks like a black-shouldered kite to me. Great thread, loving the stories and pictures.

 

Is it? I had it down as a kite, but then became convinced it was a Pygmy Falcon. I am sure you are right as after three weeks of two, different hacking coughs I have the concentration span of a toddler at the moment; and my raptor ID skills suck at the best of times. Thanks!

Please everyone, correct any errors. There are bound to be some.

It's a bit of an odd angle, but with a pygmy falcon I would expect to see the spots in the wing on this picture. A pygmy falcon is a really small bird, way smaller than a European kestrel, while a bs kite is a bit bigger than a European kestrel.

Thanks. Yes, we saw a few Pygmy Falcons - there is no mistaking them with the eyes. Tiny.. Meru is very good for them. The problem is writing without thinking things through - things like "Hang on. Where did that sudden certainty come from?" :-)

 

Thanks for the nice comments and encouragement, @@twaffle @@Soukous @@ZaminOz @@TonyQ  There is certainly more to come. Still the elephants, buffaloes, lions and Gerenuk to talk about, and the most wonderful, hair-raising moment of all. I am feeling a lot better on my latest drug cocktail (Thai doctors love their pills) so hopefully I will have the energy back to finish this weekend.

 

You would love both seasons I am sure. I know it is a different park in the dry. You'll get some great light. Five nights is a good time.