Fire, Wind, Dust and Wonder.

[SafariChick]

@@Whyone? just getting started reading this report. Very fascinating activity with the hippo carcass. Funny as I just was writing about one as well and don't feel like we see them as often as other carcasses. The trail camera activity is really cool - too bad about the sound indeed, you could tell that hippo was saying something to those hyena though! Looking forward to reading more.

[Whyone?]

Hi @@SafariChick - so pleased you have chosen to spend some of your time reading my ramblings!

 

Such a pain the sound failed on the trail cam - I am sure that hippo was saying something very interesting to those hyena!

[Whyone?]

.... you always have a superb time!

 

Mana for a week with your friends?

 

Pretty difficult not to have a good time!

[Whyone?]

The morning of Friday 31st October 2014 is one which which I will remember for many a long year.

 

It started ordinarily enough, we were not up quite as early as usual, so at about 6:15 it was decided we should drive upstream a little way, then park-up and walk. We took the left turn from the Mucheni's towards Nyamempi, and were only 200 or 300 yards along the road when we saw a pack of Wild Dog milling about on the right-hand side. As the car stopped I grabbed my camera and walked a little way into the bush so that I wasn't facing directly into the rising sun. Before I had chance to get to a decent vantage point they were off at speed, so the sensible thing to do seemed to be to follow them. Another photographer we had met earlier in the week was already in pursuit. I am neither especially fit nor young, temperatures were already climbing beyond 'comfortable' and the dogs set a rapid pace. It was also impossible to seek out shade as we would normally do when walking - if the dogs went across an open area of bush, we followed, damn the heat! Following ~100 yards behind them most of the time we took care not to interfere with their activities in any way. It was clear they they were hunting and it was fascinating to watch the adult dogs, with 4 youngsters in tow, interact. They would run in a tight group/ line most of the time, but when potential prey was seen, they would fan out into a wide arc and suddenly pick up speed and move in from either side.

 

The first attempt at a kill was on a warthog. It all happened very quickly - certainly no time for photo's - the lead dogs accelerated quickly and there was a flurry of dogs, dust and warthog....and the warthog emerged apparently unscathed.

 

At this point the dogs paused for breath much to my great relief!

 

2R4C0677 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

I guess we had been following for about 15 minutes at this stage, and it was only now that I noticed my friends were nowhere to be seen and I had precious little idea where we (photographer acquaintance and I) were! All manner of thoughts ran through my head, including my wife urging me not to do anything silly whilst at Mana and what my friends would say when we finally caught up....but then the dogs were up and off again and I remember thinking, "when will I ever have the chance to go hunting with Wild Dog again" so it was off and after them and worry about awkward explanations later!

 

2R4C0672 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

There was brief and half-hearted attempt at an impala, and then something rather more ambitious....eland.

 

2R4C0679 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

There was a brief stand-off, and then the eland put its head down and ran at the dogs.

 

2R4C0684 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

Eland 1 - Dogs 0.

 

I was again eternally grateful that the dogs decided to rest again after this little spat - I was now soaked in sweat and coated in dust!

 

2R4C0687 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

It was now over an hour since I had hopped from the car. Most of that time had been spend moving at reasonable speed, albeit over some pretty undulating terrain, so I reckoned we must have traveled at least 2-3 miles....and other than the fact that the river was somewhere to the left, I had no idea where I was!

 

After a couple of minutes the dogs again got up and headed off, this time at a more measured, purposeful pace....a brisk walk in my terms.

 

2R4C0693 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

2R4C0698 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

After 10 or 15 minutes it was clear that they had given up the thought of breakfast and soon settled down in some deep shade under an abandoned river terrace.

 

Not great light for photography, but at least I could not take pictures of something other than tails!

 

2R4C0708 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

The adults quickly settled, but the 4 youngsters were still full of beans, charging about and playing together - it really was a sight to behold and i did just that, watched and enjoyed, just dashing off a few quick photo's, but really far more interested in enjoying the spectacle.

 

2R4C0720 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

2R4C0727 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

2R4C0731 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

2R4C0728 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

The adults just watched on....

2R4C0734 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

There had been 6 pups in this pack until a couple of weeks before this sighting. One had been lost to hyena, the other, remarkably, had been taken by a crocodile whilst jumping over a narrow stretch of water (witnessed by a local guide).

 

After 20 minutes or so watching the pup's charge about like maniacs, the guilt-pangs started once again. I knew where the river was so started walking towards it, knowing I would find the road eventually, which I duly did.....I was astonished to find myself at the far end of Chisambiko Pool - about 6 miles from where I had last seen my traveling companions. I lent against a termite mound pondering what to do next whilst admiring the croc's sunning themselves. As I did so, a white pick-up approached from the direction I had last ween my friends, as approached, there was much pointing and shouting from the two young ladies standing in the back. They stopped, and the driver, another young lady said you must be 'the lost one'! The Mana bush telegraph is clearly works very efficiently indeed!

 

The 3 ladies very kindly returned my to my former-friends who I think it is fair to say were less than amused. After some profuse apologies from yours-truly (somewhat undone by telling them what a wonderful time I had had!) I at least slightly made up for my indiscretion by managing to lead them back to the resting dogs.

Edited December 23, 2014 by Whyone?

[Soukous]

No surprise that you'll remember that morning @@Whyone? what a fantastic adventure. V. jealous indeed.

[michael-ibk]

Will call you Huntingwithdogs from now on. Great experience!

[ld1]

@Whyone oh, how fabulous. We had stupendous Dog sightings in Mana this year, what a magical encounter you had. So not just a self-driver, but a self-walker!

[graceland]

What an experience, running with dogs! And to capture it on print as well...Love the eland sequence and of course the pups.

 

I think most would have done what you did esp. with your experiences every year going to Mana - Just Do It - you'll eventually find that river.

 

Yep Mana is like a small village'; everyone seems to keep up with what is happening!

 

Great day for you!

[Geoff]

A fabulous morning...

[Whyone?]

Hi @@michael-ibk - a nice thought, thank you! But more like 'gonetothedogs!'

 

@Id1 @@graceland @@Geoff - it was wonderful, and I am old enough and wise enough to have realized at just how fortunate I was.

 

Wishing everyone here a very Happy Christmas and a healthy and adventure filled 2015

[Whyone?]

As I mentioned, once reunited with my friends, I managed to find my way back to where the dogs were resting. We spent 30-40 minutes sat in the shade watching them.....sat (and lying!) in the shade. Even the pups had calmed down and were catching up on a bit of sleep!

 

There was a small waterhole between us and the dogs, and one or two of the dogs wandered down to drink sporadically.

 

2R4C0770 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

As dis a Lappet-faced vulture (here showing it's nicitating membrane)

2R4C0775 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

Then, one of the dogs was up and rushing about the others, making encouraging yapping. Within a few seconds they were up and off again...

2R4C0777 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

..this time I was not remotely tempted to head off after them, a comfy chair, a view of the river and a cool beer back at Mucheni 3 beckoned. That and eating a little more humble pie!

Edited December 26, 2014 by Whyone?

[Peter Connan]

What a fabulous trip, magnificent photography and great narrative! And what awesome experiences! Thank you very much, also for great memories you have brought back.

 

If I ever get the chance, I will also "run with the dogs", and to hell with the consequences.

 

And as for Charlie and his monkey friends: Please don't feed the wildlife, they are quite capable of feeding themselves. From your supplies. No matter how much care you take. Buggers.

 

Just last week I was preparing breakfast. When I looked up, there were three monkeys in my car. I took four steps toward the car and shouted. By the time I turned around, they had stolen two eggs and all my cheese off the table, and were starting on the bacon...

 

Thank you indeed @@Whyone?

 

Oh, just two comments:

1) Are you sure that is a lapped-faced vulture? The beak seems quite thin. I would have thought it's a hooded vulture?

2) Do you not think it's time to change that beautiful old 60-series of yours' to one-piece rims and tubeless tires? Punctures can then be fixed right there, usually without even having to take the wheel off?

Edited December 27, 2014 by Peter Connan

[Whyone?]

Hi @@Peter Connan....many thanks for your kind comments.

 

You are absolutely right about monkeys - they are consumate opportunists, more than capable of feeding (helping!) themselves, no matter how careful you think you are being.

 

I am sure you are correct about the vulture having done a little Googling - 'Hooded' it is!

 

It would be nice to put the Landcruiser (not mine sadly!) onto one piece / tubeless tyres, but it probably wont happen. It really is a workhorse. If I recall correctly the odometer has stopped on 360k km....and has been stopped as long as I have known it. It's previous owner used to run it in and out of DRC from Zim, so it has lived the sort of life a Landcruiser should live and absolutely ideal for Mana.

Edited December 27, 2014 by Whyone?

[Peter Connan]

Ah, yes @@Whyone?, it just won't do to modify someone else's vehicle.

 

Those 60's really were one of Toyota's best efforts.

[Whyone?]

@@Peter Connan I think it is telling that Toyota are making these again:

http://www.toyota.com.au/landcruiser-70-series/range

 

We saw a new 70 series in Mana this year - very cool, but needed a few hundred-thousand km's under its belt to give it that loved and lived in look!

[Peter Connan]

@@Whyone?, not to argue, but while these are undobtedly fine vehicles, I don't think they are in the same class (or league) as the '60s.

 

Having said that, simple and robust vehicles suitable for long-term African safari use are getting very hard to find. I think there are basically two:

1) The abovementioned Cruisers (by the way, a friend of mine owns one of these pickups and is very concerned about the "soft" load bins and electric windows when compared to the slightly older versions).

2) The Nissan Patrol (not the new Y62, but the older Y61's still being sold here and in Australia.

[Whyone?]

@@Peter Connan - not disagreeing t all, the 60's are great vehicles. I guess Toyota couldn't quite bring themselves to go back that far! I also have a soft spot for the 40 and 50 Series. It makes me smile a little when I see smug folk's cruising through the bush in their 100+ Series 'cruisers, windows up, aircon on....that isn't the game at all!

 

I dont have any experience of Nissan's in the bush. Land Rovers I do - having twice taken them into the both, both times I was let down.

[Kitsafari]

@@Whyone? what an incredible experience to run with the dogs. how many people can relate to it? i wouldnt and couldnt do it so i really admire your adventurous spirit!

Edited December 28, 2014 by Kitsafari

[Whyone?]

Hi @@Kitsafari - it was indeed a great....and I suspect a 'once in a lifetime'....experience.

 

Thank you for your kind words!

 

We are normally very cautious walking in the bush, particularly as we do not have the wisdom (and gun!) of a guide. As I followed the dogs, I was aware that a lot of this care was going out of the window, especially as I noticed family groups of ele's left and right of our path!

[Marks]

Exhilarating to follow the dogs with you; that must have really been something!

[Whyone?]

Many thanks @@Marks...and yes, it most certainly was!!!

 

Right, time to get this TR rounded off and finished.

 

As mentioned earlier in the report, whilst all of the dust and smoke in the atmosphere made for some lovely colours at the start and end of each day, the lack of clouds meant that sunrises and sunsets were not as photogenic as is usually the case. Still, I didn't let this stop me taking pictures at the end of every day!

 

2R4C0649 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

On the final morning it is a case of a quick walk along the river........

2R4C0482 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

Camp pre-breakdown.

_MG_9829 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

....pack-up the car and trailer and make sure that the camp is clean and tidy for the next visitors. On the move by 8:00am, we stopped off at Nyamepi and left our remaining food supplies with the Parks guys, and stopped at the Nyakasikane boom to pass some sweets to the local children, via their mum's of course.

_MG_9880 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

There was just time for one more minor breakdown, when the earth lead decided to separate itself from the battery just before we passed over the Ruchomechi river.

_MG_9879 by Whyone, on Flickr

 

Many thanks to all of you who have followed this report, for your comments and 'likes', but mainly just for taking to time to read.

 

Roll on 17th October when I will again be visiting Mana Pools, Mucheni 3 is already booked for the week.

Edited January 2, 2015 by Whyone?

[michael-ibk]

Thanks for this report, thoroughly enjoyed it, like every year. Oh, and see you next year in Mana Pools, I'm there in the same week.

[graceland]

Thank you @@Whyone? as always for such an enjoyable report. Though I'd never self drive ( too lazy - and I like staff ) I love hearing of your travels. Of course after reading the latest Safaritalk Digital Mag, I have many tips to carry with me if I do change my mind.

Great article. No wonder you were a bit late (I noticed ) with this TR. Well worth it.

 

How cool to meet up with @@michael-ibk next year. Mini GTG; bet more St'rs will be there.

 

I love that you take your left over food to the Park Men; and the candy to the Mums. Very sweet.

 

Thanks for sharing the adventure

 

Off to FLA???

[twaffle]

Thanks Whyone for a great report which I enjoyed very much.

[PCNW]

Oh my, I really enjoyed this trip. My husband has only done one safari and that was in a closed vehicle. He commented on not wanting to be in a open jeep near lions so I was trying to explain true walking safaris and camping....I now have the photos to show him what that's all about. Thank you for letting us enjoy this trip too.