Lions, Leopards and the Lipault Ladies

[Kitsafari]

Nkorombo was an excellent camp, not plushy and uber comfortable like the main camp but canvas tent with bucket shower comfort. it reminded me so much of my first trip that had me staying in such tents, close to ground with wildlife so close to you. the tents were quite close to each other and if you have noisy neighbours then you will surely hear them in the silence of the night. but it was all quiet while we were there.

 

some pix of the camp:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

I’m picking up the journey, so please bear with my rambling winding way through Masai Mara Reserve. After a good night’s rest and listening to the bushbaby bouncing antics on my trampoline-canvast tent through the night, i was all refreshed to explore the world-famous reserve.

 

But first thing in the morning, as @@graceland had mentioned earlier, Emily was outside at the door with a vase of beautiful flowers and a card. Each of our husbands had sent their Valentine’s wishes, arranged via our sweetheart TO and Emily picked Mara flowers, leaves and twigs and did beautiful arrangements to make the occasion even more special.

 

 

Oh forgot to add! charging is now done in-tent at Nkorombo - yippee. you can also charge your equipment in the room at the Serian main camp in Mara North too.

[Kitsafari]

As we picked our way out of the camp, we came upon 3 beautiful lionesses stretched and spread around a small sunken area. They are part of the Rekero pride that has more than 20 lions presided over by two dark males.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We sat with them for only a few minutes but they didn’t look like they wanted to put on a show for us, so we were off. Off to catch a most fabulous sunrise. A wisp of cloud and a lone slightly leaning tree made the Mara sunrise most picturesque. So of course we had to get down for some shots. The clouds might have looked ominous but by full sunrise, it was as bright and sunny as ever.

 

 

Edited March 18, 2015 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

We passed a couple of hyenas returning from night forays. I was surprised to find one of them collared.- a most unusual sight since collars are often found on dogs, lions, elephants. Finally some research is being done on the most maligned carnivore and hopefully they will cast more positive light on these predators, often unjustly dismissed as scavengers.

 

 

 

a troop of baboons scampered by as they emerged from their abodes to catch the early food

 

 

[Kitsafari]

It was a Lion morning. A male rather thin lion laid redolent as the sun rose, ignoring us as we stopped momentarily. i hoped it was alright but it was fast asleep.

 

 

 

Far ahead, we saw parked vehicles and James said it was a mating lion pair. Just as he took off, i looked backwards and what came strolling out of a bush was a blonde male lion. He glanced at us and walked down into a ravine for a drink before climbing the opposite bank and settled down for a rest.

 

 

 

 

Feeling rather guilty as we indulged in a bit of voyeurism we waited for the mating pair to recover from a short slumber. There were 3-4 vehicles parked along the road, waiting for the show. And we didn’t have to wait long. 10 mins in and the lioness got up, followed closely by the male.

 

The copious moments were so fast and so un-violent that it was over before it began.

 

 

 

 

 

and a very short video to show how quick it can be

 

Edited March 18, 2015 by Kitsafari

[SafariChick]

It sure WAS quick! I managed a few quick photos:

 

The approach:

 

 

 

The act:

 

 

and that was it - I took one photo and they were done! As you saw from @@Kitsafari's video, very quick. My first time ever seeing it, so I was thrilled to get that opportunity.

 

Re the Valentine's flowers, I was so touched to receive them along with a personalized note in the words of my husband. I was even more touched to learn that it was Mr. Safarichick who started the idea off when he remembered (which I did not!) that this Valentine's marked 25 years since the day we met (we met at an "Anti-Valentine's Day Party") - even though the party wasn't exactly on Valentine's Day but on the nearest Friday or Saturday, we always think of around Valentine's as the anniversary of when we met. But our TO and Emily (and Tarry) were so sweet to make the request happen!

Edited March 18, 2015 by SafariChick

[Kitsafari]

And Mara is of course also famous for its cheetahs, and who but Malaika and her four cubs could command such attention. There were already some 8-10 vehicles positioned strategically to watch the family. the cubs were in full play mode, with a beanbag as a toy that must have dropped from some photographic fans. it is a testament to Malaika's hunting and mothering skills to be able to bring up 4 healthy cubs. 4 out of 6 is an excellent ratio.

 

here's a cub fest:

 

 

 

 

 

and Malaika herself:

 

[Kitsafari]

Malaika moved ahead of the cubs, and laid flat. All the vehicles followed the mum. You never know when the cheetah will turn on her hunt mode. To our right, a full line of wildebeests appeared, running in two single files at the top of the hill towards our left. They were doing a mini migration and thought far smaller than what the true migration, there were enough of them to kick up dust and draw attention. Not only ours but Malaika as well. She sat straight up, all alert.

 

 

Suddenly, she propelled into a run. Malaika was on a hunt. as she took off, we heard a roar of car engines coming to life and all the vehicles, except ours, rushed alongside Malaika as she tore into the wildebeests. The cars sped up just as the four cubs also sped forward, making me fearful for their safety amid the speeding vehicles. but the cubs stopped halfway and sat and waited for the mother’s signal.

 

But because malaika went up the hill, we were unable to see what happened. I wondered why James didn’t move but he was stewing. The other cars had just tore up off roads – against the rules, and by moving alongside Malaika, the cars could have negatively affected her hunt. Indeed, all the cars were parked offroad and looked like they were surrounding the cheetah and her cubs. James explained why he didn’t move, and we fully supported his move. I wouldn’t want to contribute to any failed hunt. We sat in the car for a long time, maybe 20 mins or more as we discussed the cons of following animals when they were in the thick of a hunt. In the meantime, all those cars retreated back to the roads and all drove off, bar the two BBC filming cars which stayed quite a distance away, filming all the unruly behaviour.

 

As the scene cleared of vehicles, the cubs and Malaika emerged from a bush. And with them was a live wildebeest calf. The mother caught a calf but kept it alive for the cubs to train on. The calf was as tall as the cubs, and made a few dashes to freedom but Malaika made sure the cubs caught it each time. Finally after what seemed an inordinate period, Malaika put the poor calf out of misery in a bush.

 

[Kitsafari]

I know @@SafariChick and @@graceland will have lots of pictures to share. I did a video tape, and this time my brain took over without the emotions, but when i returned home and viewed it, I just couldn’t watch after a couple of minutes. But , other than the BBC filming, this is probably the only tape of that day’s Malaika's training session.

 

[Kitsafari]

After that drama, everything seemed sedate. We had breakfast in front of a mini crossing with zebras and wildebeests crossing a stream. Other things we saw were buffaloes (again!), lots of topis and babies, a herd of ostriches (strange they couldn’t come up with a more inventive collective noun for ostriches!), zebras enjoying their reflection in a pond. Then it was back to Nkorombo for lunch. We loved the lunch at camp, with plenty of fresh green refreshing salads.

 

 

Mini dry migration

 

 

lovely scene of zebras and wildebeests

 

 

 

a whisper in your ear....

 

 

 

sticking close to mum

 

 

still curious about us

 

 

Dashing tall superbirds. not sure how that myth of ostriches burying their heads in the sand came from. i've yet to see one doing it!

 

 

admiring its reflection

 

 

The tall and short of the tale.

[Kitsafari]

We left for the evening drive at around 4pm and had to return to camp by 6.30pm. the only exception to being out after 6.30pm in the reserve is if you are having sundowners. Which is rather odd, since you still have to drive back to camp after sundowners! 6.30pm is rather early to return. In the Serengeti,the deadline is 7pm.

 

A few elands were milling around, with a brute of a male posing nicely for us (which I think I put up earlier in my portion!). All the animals in the reserve seem so habituated. Good for photography but hope the animals will stay safe. In the gathering cloudy skies, the horizons looked misty and mysterious, a cue for more photos to be taken.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw a couple of lionesses sleeping next to a mound but they were too far away for a proper shot. By that time, the Lipault Ladies had a good fill of Lions and Cheetahs. @@SafariChick was keen for some Leopards,and off we went searching for the elusive spotted cat. Round and round we went to a particular haunt of a male leopard cub that was seen only the day before lounging on a flat rock face. I can’t recall how it started, I think it was @@graceland requesting a song from @@SafariChick, and soon we were humming along to songs from the musicals. @@SafariChick’s beautiful voice soothed the antelopes and gazelles which didn’t run away as we passed them. But the siren couldn’t lure the leopards out.

[Kitsafari]

James said there were vehicles at a distance, and we rushed towards that place, which looked so close and yet ended taking some 30mins-40mins to reach there. And there it was – a stunning leopard cub. It was home alone, while 2 kms away we could see vehicles parked around a stalking adult leopard. It was the leopard mother trying to get some dinner home. James decided against following the mother as other vehicles drove over there, eager to see a potential hunt. We and one more vehicle stayed with the cub, and it was a fantastic call.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

well camouflaged

 

 

 

a little clip of the mother in the distance:

 

[Kitsafari]

A group of elephants emerged from the bushes and walked to a thicket where the cub was. As a young elephant followed its mother, the curious cub decided to move towards the elephants. It walked stealthily in stalking mode and as it closed the distance, the young elephant glanced towards the cat, which quickly stopped in its tracks. The cub picked up the pace again trying to sniff the elephant. At one point, the mother elephant noticed the cub and flushed it out from a bush. It was great fun and at the same time treasuring such precious moments, although we were worrying that the cub could have been hurt!

 

And so it was the end of yet another amazing day in the Mara. It was a lovely day, relaxing and enjoying the companionship of like-minded safarigoers and putting all our trust in our reliable guide, and having such incredible moments like the cheetah and leopard cubs.

 

here are a couple of videos following the mini "hunt"

 

 

 

[graceland]

Great pictures @@Kitsafari,

 

you have captured the days beautifully.

 

Looking forward to more, I am stepping aside on request but know you will have many glorious days ahead to share.

[amybatt]

The wonderful story continues...you get me in here to my desk every morning with the temptation of another installment!

 

Love the mating lions, in the last shot the look on her face appears as if she is formulating a shopping list in her head while he carries on.

 

Seems as though your guide made excellent decisions to stay put which really paid off for you, particularly with the cheetah and leopard cubs. What wonderful photos. And that leopard cub's boldness (or the naivete of youth?) was just something to see. Love the slinking up behind and "hiding" behind a rock. What a sighting.

[Safaridude]

Loved the cheetah action and the landscape.

 

This TR is a gift that keeps on giving.

[Kitsafari]

@@graceland you can't stay away - we need your funny, quirky and unique way of looking at things.

 

@@amybatt that's so sweet of you to say that. I think it's because all three of us enjoyed the trip so much that it shows in the postings. It would be a sad day if three of us as a whole let you down with anything less

 

@@Safaridude thank you for the kind words!

[Marks]

Experiencing some serious "lens envy" looking at those pros on the previous page...

 

Excellent leopard and cheetah moments (barring the harrassing vehicles). Any idea what the BBC was producing when filming Malaika? (Sorry if one of you mentioned it and I missed it in my rush to catch up!)

Edited March 18, 2015 by Marks

[SafariChick]

@@Kitsafari you got some fantastic photos and videos! You too @@graceland - come back soon with more, I agree with Kit, we need more of your voice on here!

 

@@amybatt and @@Safaridude thanks for the nice comments! @@Marks I believe we were told that they were filming a documentary or wildlife special of some kind on cheetahs in the Mara in general and that they'd been there a couple of months already? We seemed to keep seeing them around Malaika and the cubs.

 

A couple of photos of the cubs before the hunt:

 

 

 

 

Here's a video of when Malaika first started to hunt the wildies, and you can see and hear the cars around us all zooming to follow her.

 

 

And here is another video after she must have gotten the baby (but we couldn't see it yet) and the rest of the herd was all running away - you can see there were quite a few of them:

 

[Game Warden]

@@Safaridude and I never got to see cheetahs in the Mara despite some serious searching... your sightings were great! I saw on FB that both Offbeat Mara and Serian had spotted a black rhino passing through MNC close to both camps.

[SafariChick]

We were lucky @@Game Warden for sure - and there are more cheetah to come! We didn't see any rhino in the greater Mara area but @@Kitsafari and I were lucky to see them in Nairobi National Park.

[Kitsafari]

@@SafariChick great catch of Malaika shooting off and the wildebeests running for their lives. from your videos one can see that the cars were parked/driving off roads.

[Kitsafari]

Next morning saw us up bright and early, ready for a long distance drive to the Lookout Hill in the southern reserve. The morning was crisp and misty and Terry the guide from Namibia decided to join us after hearing all about our incredible sightings the day before. It was our last full day with Serian Nkorombo, and we were excited to make the most of it.

 

It was a long journey, plunging into the steep banks of Talek River and seeing the usual plains game along the way. A herd of ostriches caught our eye and a single tree on the horizon meant we had to stop for our usual Lone Tree on the Horizon shots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

Then the strangest thing ever happened.

 

James looked around and suddenly he said, there’s a man walking in the bush. And we said, what is a man doing, walking in the bush all alone at this time (i think it was around 8am)? The man was half running and half walking briskly to us, waving at us with a thin stick in his hand, clothed in a green uniform akin to a mechanic’s uniform. So a lot of theories floated in my brain – his car broke down, where were his guests, was he a terrorist trying to hijack our car, and where were his accomplices? I quickly looked around the area with my small binos but all we saw was him alone running to the car.

 

His story was that he was thrown out of a camp by its manager and staff at 5am this morning, and he’d been walking alone in the bush in the dark since then. All he had was a thin stick. He wanted to walk back to Nairobi. The problem was Nairobi was thousands of miles away, and he was walking in the wrong direction – he was heading towards the Tanzanian border. How he managed to survive the predators in the dark boggled our minds, and we could not believe that a manager would be so evil as to kick him out alone to survive in the wild.

 

Well we couldn’t send him to Nairobi, so James kindly sent him to the nearest camp which was fortunately 10mins drive away. Calls were made to and fro, as well as to his brother in Nairobi. As we left him there, we could see that he was most unhappy being left at the camp. The camp staff offered him tea in the camp, but he stubbornly squatted down in the grass instead.

 

The real story as we found out when we returned to camp was that the stranger in the bush had worked at a mobile camp for only one day, and he wanted to return to Nairobi. He had actually left the camp the evening before but returned at 8pm and said he decided to stay. But at 5am, he left again without telling anyone. The frantic camp staff drove from camp to camp to look for him, and came to Nkorombo camp as well. The result was that KWS got really mad with the guy for causing such trouble and ordered his brother to get him out of the reserve that day, and never to return.

 

One sees really incredible things in the bush. But i’ll bet all the most experienced guides and camp staff would have never ever seen a lone man running around in the bush with a thin branch for protection. It was the most amazing thing i’ve ever seen. And of course we forgot to take pictures, although i think @@graceland managed to sneak a shot!

[Kitsafari]

After all that excitement, the rest of the morning was peaceful, well almost peaceful. We stopped to see a superb starling, a thicknee, a herd of buffaloes, and a lone grey jumbo gently gliding along the grassland.

 

 

 

and a series of pix of the gliding jumbo. james turned off the engine, and we just sat and admire this gentle calm mammal just silently strolling in front of us.