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Gujarat, India 2015, Rare and beautiful


elefromoz

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@@elefromoz I am loving your Gujarat TR. The flamingos look wonderful, I do hope we are as lucky.

 

Ouch to those camera fees!

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@@michael-ibk, AU$ 25 per camera per drive for us, but the AU$ is in the doldrums at the moment, actually rate is 1,200 INR per camera per drive, some will get out of it a bit cheaper. Sorry @@Treepol, not you :(.

 

@elefromoz

great TR and since Gir happens to be in the state i live, i find it doubly interesting. Very good photographs too. You have the eye. I have commented on some of your observations:

 

The May 2015 census counted 523 Lions in the Park.

 

I was fortunate to be an observer during the counting. It was great and we could go around the entire area, including the national park.

 

It was a “dry” hotel ,we had invited Vikram to join us for a drink but had to settle for Cokes.

 

Gujarat is the only "dry" state in the country. However, visitors from outside the state, and that includes visitors from outside India, can get a permit for buying and consuming alcoholic beverages. Locals can also get a permit, but on health grounds and generally given only to people above 40 years of age.

 

i shall try and pass the message to the concerned authorities about the camera fees. A comparative chart would help and would appreciate if ST members could share their info on park fees, rides, guides, etc.

 

Sorry to note that you had a slow day. Waiting to hear what happened the next day!

 

@@Earthian, would be interested to hear a little more about the "counting" process, how its carried out, accuracy etc.Maybe anything else you can add, perhaps another thread. It is such a success story and worth sharing whats been involved over the years.

 

A bar was setup in the evening at Bluck Buck Lodge, and we could also purchase alcohol at our next Lodge, Rann Riders. Just got caught short here, not a "biggie".

 

Camera fees at Velavadar were $10 per camera per drive. Girs camera fees had doubled immediately prior to our arrival, from$12AU to $25AU.

 

"sorry to note you had a slow day", nah, half the funs in the anticipation and simmering excitement.

 

Why has no-one commented on how delicious that food looks?? Im drooling on my keyboard thinking about it!

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Those stripies are sooo beautiful. Thanks for sharing

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I forgot to mention - the food looks uber-mega-yammayamma-delicious. :)

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The food looks delicious :) .............

 

 

 

........... Hope it was tasty as well ! :D

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kittykat23uk

Camera fees seem to be a peculiarly Indian phenomenon. Nowhere else I have been has had camera fees. They would be better to just charge a bit more for the game drives as India is still a relatively cheap destination and the prospect of camera fees makes one feel exploited for wanting to take home some mementos. It's also per camera per drive and includes video camera. So will disproportionately affect dual body users. Strangely they only charged above a certain lens length in some parks- 200 mm I think. My lens of choice is a 50-200 on my m4/3 kit. :)

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Really want to travel in this part of india ...stunning white sand beaches and authentic white salt pans similar to those of namibia are the major attractions on my wishlist. .

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Next morning, back into the Jeep in the darkness, the Park HQ just a few minutes away, where we sit whilst the complexities of permits, camera fees, guides and goodness knows what are sorted. It is chilly and we’re all rugged up. After 20 mins or so, we’re off and drive out to our entry Gate where we again show passports, forms are signed and the drive finally begins.

 

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Today was our last chance to see the Lion, no pressure or anything, ha ha. Mother Nature smiled on us this morning, before too long warning calls were heard ahead, we rounded the bend to see two lovely males at the water trough taking a drink. The first photo is B+W just because I found the “blue” trough somewhat detracted from the scene, although nothing could detract from the splendour of these two boys.

 

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The mane of the Asiatic Lion is “shorter” than his African cousin, and he a little smaller. I found this dry, rocky terrain so far removed from the habitat in Tanzania where Id last seen Lions, no so much the dry, but certainly the rocks. Warning, Lion photo overload coming..

 

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One went and settled in the forrest, his brother walked straight past the assembled Jeeps, and off along the road.

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There was about 7 - 8 Jeeps at the sighting, each Jeep with 2-6 guests plus driver and guide. Everyone was well behaved and enthusiastic, terrific to see Indian tourists enjoying their wildlife and heritage, at the end of the day, thats what counts most toward conservation of local species. All todays visitors would have gone away with a great experience and photos to share with family and friends. These two healthy Lions gave us a great show, very relaxed, and no park officials in attendance hurrying us all on. Very lucky.

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Fabulous lions! We had wanted to do this area on our upcoming trip but decided it was too much to cram into a short trip (well, actually Vikram talked me out of it). Nex time :)

 

That food does look fabulous. I know many people report getting sick in India but I'm really looking forward to some great Indian food--we love it. One of the nice things about Tanzania was that several of our lodges were owned by Indians and the food was so much better than we'd expected (at least the Indian items in the buffets!)

 

Wondering about this: >>The drive times were 6am – 9am, then 9.30am, which too is crazy, as that meant you rushed back to your hotel for breakfast at 9am, scoffed it down, then back out again to line up at the gate for the 9.30 start.<<

 

Wonder if it would be possible to just bring along a breakfast and eat it in the gypsy from 9-9:30 while waiting for the park to reopen again? Seems like it would make a lot more sense.

 

Looking forward to more...

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Beautiful lion shots - they are so pretty in the landscape there. Glad you got to see them. I also don't understand the closing for half an hour. It reminds me of when they make the kids get out of the pool for 5 minutes every hour at some pools here in the U.S. What is the point of it?

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madaboutcheetah

@@janzin - With Lions (atleast in Africa) I've seldom seen any up after say, 8am .........;) - not sure I'd want to even go back out at 9 30?

 

On my list is Velavader, Gir and Rann of Kutch - Thanks for this report @@elefromoz

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@@janzin, had a bit of a think about "Wonder if it would be possible to just bring along a breakfast and eat it in the gypsy from 9-9:30 while waiting for the park to reopen again? Seems like it would make a lot more sense."

Firstly, our hotel was only a couple of minutes from the Park Headquarters, so not much time saved there. This was just the sign in, admin centre, not the Park Gate/s which you then had to drive out to. Secondly, each game drive you had a different Gypsy, owner- driver and guide, so had to change vehicles each time, no continuity there. Thirdly, big one, gave you the chance to use the "bathroom", don't think the public ones would have been much cop, especially for women!

 

"We had wanted to do this area on our upcoming trip but decided it was too much to cram into a short trip (well, actually Vikram talked me out of it)"

Probably wise, India is huge, travelling tiring, no point going home more shattered than when you left. And yes, always next time, so much diversity in India.

 

@@SafariChick, "I also don't understand the closing for half an hour. It reminds me of when they make the kids get out of the pool for 5 minutes every hour at some pools here in the U.S. What is the point of it?" I have no idea what the point is either, other than to get more tourists through the gate more often. Of course there are some who are not willing/able to be up and going by 5.30, maybe it suits them. Those that missed out on "passes" for the first drive, have an opportunity with the second morning drive, although I think @@madaboutcheetah is correct, and if I decided to "drop" a drive, it would be the second one. As we had only 3 days, we wanted to spend as much time out as possible. "we may never pass this way again"

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@@SafariChick, "I also don't understand the closing for half an hour. It reminds me of when they make the kids get out of the pool for 5 minutes every hour at some pools here in the U.S. What is the point of it?" I have no idea what the point is either, other than to get more tourists through the gate more often. Of course there are some who are not willing/able to be up and going by 5.30, maybe it suits them. Those that missed out on "passes" for the first drive, have an opportunity with the second morning drive, although I think @@madaboutcheetah is correct, and if I decided to "drop" a drive, it would be the second one. As we had only 3 days, we wanted to spend as much time out as possible. "we may never pass this way again"

 

~ @@elefromoz

 

Thank you for explaining that to @@SafariChick, as it helps to better understand the situation.

The concept of “we may never pass this way again” frequently crosses my mind on safari.

What's odd is that in many cases I do end up passing that way again, but on the original visit I never would have imagined it.

I especially appreciate your tactful explanation of various complications you encountered.

Your commentary and images bring to life an adventure which I'd otherwise have missed.

Much appreciate your informative trip report, as fine as your others!

Tom K.

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@@SafariChick

the sanctuary visit timings are from 6 am till 9 am; 9 am till 12 pm and then in the evening from 3 pm till 6 pm. i guess they figure that folks who go in the morning would either go for the 6 am or the 9 am but not both. They obviously do not understand die-hards like us.

@@elefromoz

i understand that the entry fees, camera fees have been revised upwards ( nearly double) all over Gujarat and hence there seems to be little hope for any downward revision now for Gir. The argument given was value for money and capacity to pay.

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As far as camera fees go, yes we paid $150AU for 6 game drives, but to keep it in perspective, money well spent for me to see and photograph one of the rarest animals /cats/mammals alive, and particularly one that was within days/weeks, whatever, of extinction just decades ago. I wish I could spend another $150 next May when I go to Spain, for half an hour with a pair of Iberian Lynx at 2-20m range, ha ha.

 

A pair of Jackal rested in the shade of a tree

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Our luck continued not long after when we came across a couple of Lioness and a cub. The cub had lost her sister to a Lion, hopefully she will fare better. They too ambled up to one of the “blue” troughs for a drink.

 

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The scenery changes a lot throughout the Park, from deciduous forests to dry, scrubby, rocky terrain. The temperature changes quickly too, you can be driving along warm in the sun, drop into a treed, riverine gully and feel the temperature drop suddenly and dramatically. There are some nice rivers and water-holes too.

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And a much photographed celebrity Spotted Owlet, very cute thoughgallery_49445_1333_196031.jpg

 

Nightjar, Im not a "birder" so can't identify further than that, great bark camouflage

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Speaking of good camouflage

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After lunch we headed out to the Dam, it was hot and the water looked very tempting, but for this

 

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Back in the forrest there was a stack of sticks a couple of metres high and here we found the Honey Buzzard, trying to get to the prize, the honeycomb, deep within. She (for arguments sake) pushed her way in, pushed a bit more, using those huge wings for leverage. Deeper and deeper in she went, I was actually worried she was going to damage a wing, stretching her neck as far as she could. Loved this sighting, not something Im ever likely to witness again.

 

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Time was running out now as we wound our way through the park

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We came to these two males in a dry riverbed, doing what Lions do best, sleeping. One raised a sleepy eyelid, gave us a look, then went back to sleep. I guess that will be our last ever sighting of the Asiatic Lion. I raise my glass to "Panthera Leo Persica", may your future continue to be bright and secure.

 

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@@elefromoz

i totally agree with you, Though you didn't say it those water troughs look hideous. When i was there during the lion counting, i did mention to the powers that be that a more "natural" looking reservoir would delight us photographers. I guess the root cause is money or rather the lack of it. A "natural looking" reservoir would entail the following:

  • higher cost of the reservoir itself than these "cattle" troughs
  • higher cost and effort for making roads or tracks which ever you prefer
  • higher water consumption due to higher evaporation
  • if roads are not made and the reservoir is filled by say a pipe system; then the wild life enthusiast would not be able to see game during the hot season and hence counter productive.

In spite of the above i still feel that it can be done . What is troubling is that i saw the same troughs in Bhandhavgarh, right next to the track.

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@@elefromoz

This continues to be a really enjoyable report - great lion pictures - and the Honey Buzzard sequence.

I think the camera fees are a reasonable way for the park to make money - and the overall cost will not be high.

Good news for UK residents - India has introduced the eVisa (online visa) for us now - making it much less time consuming to get a visa and a lot cheaper! I have also found out that it is possible to fly (via middle east) to Ahmedabad without going through Delhi. Every little helps....

 

 

(This report obviously leading to more internet research :) )

Edited by TonyQ
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@@elefromoz

i totally agree with you, Though you didn't say it those water troughs look hideous. When i was there during the lion counting, i did mention to the powers that be that a more "natural" looking reservoir would delight us photographers. I guess the root cause is money or rather the lack of it. A "natural looking" reservoir would entail the following:

  • higher cost of the reservoir itself than these "cattle" troughs
  • higher cost and effort for making roads or tracks which ever you prefer
  • higher water consumption due to higher evaporation
  • if roads are not made and the reservoir is filled by say a pipe system; then the wild life enthusiast would not be able to see game during the hot season and hence counter productive.

In spite of the above i still feel that it can be done . What is troubling is that i saw the same troughs in Bhandhavgarh, right next to the track.

 

@@Earthian, fair enough, how about some brown paint at least :)

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@@TonyQ

 

Emirates, Ethiad, Qatar all fly into Ahmedabad and are all well connected to most western destinations. For folks from Australia and NZ, Singapore Airlines flies directly to Ahmedabad. Air India flies from Ahmedabad to some ME countries as is being as well by a number of (mainly) domestic carriersThere used to be direct non stop flights from London to Ahmedabad a few years back, but i believe politics between Maharashtra and Gujarat cancelled that. It is estimated that in every US bound flight 25% of the passengers are from Gujarat. I guess the day is not far when direct flights from US into Ahmedabad would be a reality.

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I will digress a bit here, as @@TonyQ has mentioned Delhi. Midway of our trip between Gujarat and Satpura, we spent a few in Delhi relaxing and waiting for our friends to fly in from Paris where they had been on business. This was our first time here so we found lots to do and enjoy. We had a private driver booked for these days.

Firstup we took a walk around Lodhi Gardens, incredible 15century Tombs and Mosques set in gardens, I fancy myself as a bit of a gardener, so enjoyed all the blooms. This is a very peaceful place to spend a couple of hours.

 

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Life here seems not that much different from home, joggers, people reading in the sun, school kids on excursion

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But just outside the gates, sobering

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In the afternoon we went to the Imperial Hotel for “high Tea”

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The hotel has a very fine Art collection, which I was fascinated by, a look at a by-gone era of royalty and pomp.

 

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The next morning we visited Qtab Minar and enjoyed the history and colour

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And neighbouring, deserted, Mehrauli Archeological site.

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We found a great little Pizzeria in Hauz Khas Village for lunch, on the third floor balcony we had Pizza and Beer overlooking ruins dating back to the1600s

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A lot of students and “gorgeous young things” here, seeing and being seen

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The next day we went with our friends to Humayans Tomb then took a rickshaw ride through Chandi Chowk. When this was first suggested to us we were less than enthusiastic. Our friends had done this in Bejing, so weren’t keen on repeating the experience and I just imagined crowds, grot, nasty smells.. but we had such fun. So much colour, action, delicious food smells, and what a hoot, complete pandemonium.

 

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We finished up the day with a superb dinner at the very smart Indian Accent restaurant.

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So, lots to see and do here if you have the time and inclination to enjoy whats on offer in Delhi. But for now, back to Gujarat and onto Little Rann of Kutch.

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madaboutcheetah

Ah yes ..... Indian accent. Isn't it at that boutique hotel? can't quite remember the name now...

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kittykat23uk

Nice to see a different side of Delhi. I must confess to trying to spend as little time as feasibly possible in the big cities! :)

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@@madaboutcheetah, Yes, its at the Manor Hotel, while I won’t tarnish this forum with too much talk of food and such trivia :), it was one of the best meals and dining nights out we have had.

 

@@kittykat23uk, Yes, true, but as you have to transit big cities on most international trips, I like to spend a little time seeking out what’s on offer. Usually I imagine I wont be back so I try and catch a few highlights while I’m there. As far as big cities go, Delhi is a great city to explore

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  • 4 weeks later...

Goodness, time flies, time to wrap this up. We spent two nights at Rann Riders, about a forty minute drive to Little Rann of Kutch. Accomodation was simple, but comfortable. The food here was excellent again with both lunch and dinner being a buffet of curries, dahl, fesh Naan or Roti.

Our little room

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The common/dining area

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I took a stroll around the gardens when we arrived and found this couple by the pool, when I asked if they would mind if I took a photo, he shouted back “Ricky Ponting”, too funny. World Cup cricket was on during our stay.

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We were out at the crack of dawn next day, it was freezing in the back of that jeep. Our route took us through many small villages where everyone was busy, pots boiling, food smells wafting in the air, dogs busy trotting around with purpose. Life doesn’t stand still in India for long.

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We drove out onto the Rann, what a desolate looking place, dried “mud” as far as the eye could see in all directions. How can anything survive out here.But of course it does.

Imperial Eagle

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And first impressions are often wrong, there were still lakes, and where there’s water, there’s life.

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We stopped by the lake for morning tea, it was sunny and a warm breeze was now blowing.

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Later on we saw a couple of Foxes, I “think” one Indian and one Desert.

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The Indian Wild Ass is confined to this Sanctuary, in the 60s numbers fell to less than 400, today they number about 4000, another pat on the back to India for its conservation efforts. These lovely animals are camera shy and continually kept a set distance between us and them. For a while it looked like an Asses A.. was all I was going to get a shot of. Again I couldn’t help but marvel at how tough wildlife is to survive in such harsh terrain.

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In the afternoon we went to the lakes where the birdlife was prolific. Cranes, Pelicans, Spoonbills, Flamingoes, Avocets, Stilts and shorebirds everywhere and Raptors circling overhead. It was nice to just wander around.

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As the sun set, thousands of Demoiselle Cranes flew in, V formation, one flock after another, over the horizon to settle for the night.

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In the morning, Vikram asked if we would be interested in going to look for Owls, well of course we would. Our driver seemed to have a bit of “insider” knowledge here, and it wasn’t too long before we stopped in the farmland, walked to a little gully, and there was a family of Indian Eagle Owls, two adults and one juvenile.

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We then headed back to the Rann and scouted around under bushes, and found….the Short Eared Owl.gallery_49445_1360_1864527.jpg

 

A little Spotted Owlet barely raised an eyelid as we stood under the tree taking a photo.

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We did a little more “birding”

The critically Endangered Sociable Lapwing

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The Indian Courser

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And the very pretty Chestnut Bellied Sandgrouse

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Hopefully Ive done OK with the bird IDs. And that was the end of our time on the Rann. Gujarat had shown us a different India from the glossy brochures and we very much enjoyed all our time there and believe it is a worthy “add-on” to the central Tiger Parks.

We then took a two hour drive back to Ahmedabad, we’d come full circle, and then a one and a half hour flight back to Delhi.

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~ @@elefromoz

 

What a fine close to your trip report! There are numerous lovely photos.

The foxes, the various bird species, the wild asses, the waterlilies in the pool — I like all of them!

Thank you for taking time to prepare and post these for us to enjoy!

Tom K.

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