Kruger 2016: new park, new birds, new friends

[Peter Connan]

That is truly a big elephant! I have never seen one anywhere near that big.

[xelas]

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp / 30. – 31. 10. 2016

Three nights in Shingwedzi were over, time to move on. Before packing and moving south towards Mopani and further still, to Shimuwini, we did another morning game drive. Again north, as Debbie and Jim told us they have had a good sighting of lions the day before. They move out of camp before us, so we have followed their instructions. And yes, at one moment I have spotted what looked like a lion. Far away, but on the same side of the steep riverbank. Moving closer I have lost sight of it, but found Debbie and Jim. They have concentrated on a group of lionesses and cubs; they were out of our sight, and after one more lionesses crossed the riverbed and disappeared below the riverbank, we moved on. Not far, maybe 25 meters we stopped again. There was a car … and the male lion we have seen beforehand. The lion was very close tot he road but the other car has positioned in a way that it has blocked almost the complete scene. It was not easy to find a position that was not too obscured by branches and vegetation. After a while, lion decided to move and to cross the road. I didn't want to drove closer as not to make him nervous. Yet a couple of photos did came out just good, IMO.

Dry riverbed at sunrise

White-throated Bee-eater

A male lion from a distance

Lioness crossing ... and disappearing

Male with a black mane

Crossing the road

[xelas]

Then it was one more stop. Elephants again, you might comment. Indeed elephants were numerous sightings, but each of them was a bit different, and worth taking photos of. Here a herd of them moved down towards a larger pool of water, and there were several very small babies with them. One particular has had some problems with a natural obstacle. At first it looked that the rest of the gang will took no part of his struggles, but eventually they helped him overtaking the obstacle. Elephant babies … too sweat to pass!

 

 

Helmeted guineafowl

 

 

Elephants in the riverbed ...

 

... running down the slope ...

 

... to reach the watering hole ...

 

... and enjoying!

 

 

Where are you all going?!

 

They leave me on my own ... but I am big guy ...

 

... or maybe not big enough ...?!

 

Ahhh, finally, help arrived!

 

Out of troubles.

 

That one was a piece of cake, really!

Edited December 22, 2016 by xelas

[PeterHG]

Another great episode @@xelas! You did get some good shots of the Lion in spite of the vegetation and the baby elephant sequence is wonderful. We never tire of Elephants and behaviour shots like yours and Zvezda's are always very welcome!

You may want to change the White-throated Bee-eater into White-fronted Bee-eater.

[xelas]

Another great episode @@xelas! You did get some good shots of the Lion in spite of the vegetation and the baby elephant sequence is wonderful. We never tire of Elephants and behaviour shots like yours and Zvezda's are always very welcome!

You may want to change the White-throated Bee-eater into White-fronted Bee-eater.

 

 

Oh, that feels so good, @@PeterHG ! I mean the words about lions and elephants ... I was worried that there is already too many photos in this trip report ...

 

As for the White-fronted Bee-eater, yes of course this is its proper name ... just checking your attention !

[xelas]

On the way to Shimuwini we have passed by, or better to say, through Mopani. Idea was to stop for a lunch but restaurant was quite busy, so we only took a couple of photos before moving further. More elephants photos, I am afraid. But theses ones are different to others; the harsh midday light and the baked mud on their bodies makes them quite different ... and more sinister.

 

 

View from Mopani restaurant terrace

 

 

A ellie jam on the Mopani approach road

 

 

Like white ghosts ...

 

[xelas]

Finally, the Shimuwini Bushveld Camp. There are numerous rivers and creeks to be crossed on the way in, and when we asked the ranger what happens if it rains, she told us about how a whole camp has had to be evacuated by helicopters once. No chances such luck would be ours (I have never flown in a helicopter). The camp is really small, and quite basic, at least for Kruger standards. Cabins are nicely appointed, with large fridge (ours did leaked as the door didn't close well), there is A/C in the rooms, hot water and even a small r&r area with a pool, not so clean as the one at Shingwedzi but refreshing after a hot day in the car. A side note: I am not a "breach bum" and not too fond of spending times at the pools, but on this trip I have been to every pool! That might be more times than my average swimming days when on Caribbean vacations . The freezers are in a separate building, three large freezer chests with boxes for each cabin. Our cabin was #3.

 

 

Reception (check-out the GPS coordinates)

 

Room

 

Kitchen with leaking fridge

 

Covered terrace closed on three sides

 

Dinning with a view

 

Telephone booth

 

 

All the cabins are positioned on the bank of the Letaba river. This part of Kruger was not as dry as the northern area, and although Letaba did not flowed, there was enough water remaining to support both crocodiles and hippos, along with a numerous birds. The highlight of the camp, at least for us, was the bird hide. We have spent a lot of time inside the hide, both photographing and talking to fellow birders and photographers.

 

Views from the bird hide

 

 

 

 

 

Green-backed Heron aka Bob The Builder

 

 

[Big_Dog]

Looks like a fantastic trip so far!
You occasionally get doubts about how game rich the far north is...this has put those safely to bed with lions, dogs, and great birding!
The far northern terrain also reminds me somewhat of Pilanesberg, as a brief aside.
Really looking forward to more!

[FlyTraveler]

Another batch of beautiful sightings and photos, @@xelas! Love the male lion the all the elephants images, as well as the birds! So many great sightings in the Northern part or Kruger, the timing of the safari (the end of the dry season) helps a lot for that, I assume... I really want to do Kruger NP now, perhaps more than Etosha NP (have not been to either up to this moment - just to Timbavati and Sabi Sand, but Kruger proper is different).

[Atravelynn]

to 76

 

Small birds seek safety in numbers -- now that is art!

If you saw a big rock on a branch, then you saw the owl. Those big rocks dipped in white on a branch were gorgeous. (The fish eagles).

 

Love the fuzzy horned giraffe and the Nyala Whisperer.

[xelas]

Looks like a fantastic trip so far!

You occasionally get doubts about how game rich the far north is...this has put those safely to bed with lions, dogs, and great birding!

The far northern terrain also reminds me somewhat of Pilanesberg, as a brief aside.

Really looking forward to more!

 

@@Big_Dog , it was never boring on our game drives! I was told that this past October7November drought has forced many mammals to move south, and central part of Kruger (Skukuza, Satara) was like driving in a zoo. But I like it the way we had it up north. And it will be more, I have only finished first half of the trip report . There will come also some animals not yet posted ....

[xelas]

Another batch of beautiful sightings and photos, @@xelas! Love the male lion the all the elephants images, as well as the birds! So many great sightings in the Northern part or Kruger, the timing of the safari (the end of the dry season) helps a lot for that, I assume... I really want to do Kruger NP now, perhaps more than Etosha NP (have not been to either up to this moment - just to Timbavati and Sabi Sand, but Kruger proper is different).

 

@@FlyTraveler , whichever park you will go, enjoyment is guaranteed! If Kruger, be sure to book well in advance; Debbie's choices were the best regarding views and comfort, and not all options are same. Indeed the lack of almost any leaves on trees makes birding and bird photography much easier.

[xelas]

to 76

 

Small birds seek safety in numbers -- now that is art!

If you saw a big rock on a branch, then you saw the owl. Those big rocks dipped in white on a branch were gorgeous. (The fish eagles).

 

Love the fuzzy horned giraffe and the Nyala Whisperer.

 

Glad to see you are still following our TR, @@Atravelynn . Seeing much more fascinating places already, I would think Kruger is not what you are anymore interested in ...

Since I have zero poetic capabilities (unlike Tom) only way is to add a funny title or two to Zvezda's photos ... which some of them are truly fascinating, even to my eye.

[xelas]

Shimuwini Bushveld Camp / 30. – 31. 10. 2016 (continued)

 

 

Game drives are offered at each camp. Not a fan of them, mostly because when the vehicle is filled up good photography is seriously impacted. Or when the driver has no clue how to positioned it. But we have opted for early morning game drive at Shimuwini. Departure should be at 04:30 am, so wake-up call at 04:00 !! Luckily they have postponed the departure till 05:00. Our guide/driver was a nice lady. It was still dark when we started, and both me and Zvezda were operating the flash light, Oh, yes, we were the only guests so it was practically a private game drive!

 

When asked what type of wildlife we would like to see, I have replied: »Everything … and the leopard!« She smiled. »Also impala?« »Yes, why not. If hunted by the leopard.« So the drive started in a good mood; no leopard for us though. Instead of the spotted cat she took us to a spotted hyena den. As much as the grown animals are, well, not so pretty, their cubs are adorable! But let the photos do the speech.

 

A little shy giraffe

 

 

Spotted hyena cubs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rest of the gang joined the party

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After about 3 hours we have returned back. Our guide exchanged a couple of words with the driver of the pick-up we have met at hyena den. Her face gloomy; Zvezda knew the reason without asking the question, but I have had to push my luck. »What happened? Anything wrong?« »No, he only told me that he saw a leopard on his way into the camp «. I explained to her not to worry as we are the leopard anti-magnets.

Edited December 23, 2016 by xelas

[xelas]

The highlight of the camp, at least for us, was the bird hide. We have spent a lot of time inside the hide, both photographing and talking to fellow birders and photographers. There were also many birds in the trees, and we have spent the rest of the day on the grounds of the camp.

 

 

White-fronted Bee-eater feeding time

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crocodiles were large in Letaba river

 

 

[xelas]

We did exited late afternoon again, in search of that elusive spotted cat that we are so unable to spot. While still in the camp, Zvezda managed to get a close-up portrait of a Waterbuck feeding just on the other side of the electric fence. So she decided that portraits will be the theme of the drive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And with a lone elephant coming to the other side of the Letaba river, we have ended yet another great safari day in Kruger NP.

 

Edited December 23, 2016 by xelas

[xyz99]

Love the bee-eaters sequence, and of course, the portraits!!!!

Great job, Zvezda!

[Tdgraves]

@@xelas your nyala looks suspiciously like a waterbuck, or were you referring to the one lower down in the post??

[xelas]

@@xelas your nyala looks suspiciously like a waterbuck, or were you referring to the one lower down in the post??

 

 

Good eye, @@Tdgraves . Duly noted and corrected. Thank You!

 

Sorry, too eager to post photos, so here I will named all 5 of them:

 

1. Waterbuck male

2. Impala female

3. Impala male

4. Nyala juvenile bull

5. Waterbuck female

Edited December 23, 2016 by xelas

[michael-ibk]

Really enjoying this report, Alex, Northern Kruger looks very appealing. Zvezda must have been in photographer heaven, she really excelled this time. Love the young Hyenas - very fluffy.

[Dave Williams]

Just caught up Alex and I'm already thinking ...Kruger next perhaps!

You haven't answered the question posed earlier though.... Etosha or Kruger , which did you enjoy the most?

Seeing some of the shots you have been able to get though I just hope Etosha will give me similar. Our sightings of Ground Hornbill in The Gambia were hard to get close to, your Martial Eagle is unbelievably close whereas I failed completely to get any kind of record photo. Pel's Owl would have been good, but there has to be a reason to go back!

Incidentally, where is JNB airport? J'burg ?

I have checked and it's £300 pp less to fly to Cape Town or J'burg than Windhoek so that gives both a financial head start for my next outing!

Happy Christmas by the way!

[xelas]

Really enjoying this report, Alex, Northern Kruger looks very appealing. Zvezda must have been in photographer heaven, she really excelled this time. Love the young Hyenas - very fluffy.

 

 

Zvezda is always in photographer's heaven! At least that is my impression .

[xelas]

Just caught up Alex and I'm already thinking ...Kruger next perhaps!

You haven't answered the question posed earlier though.... Etosha or Kruger , which did you enjoy the most?

Seeing some of the shots you have been able to get though I just hope Etosha will give me similar. Our sightings of Ground Hornbill in The Gambia were hard to get close to, your Martial Eagle is unbelievably close whereas I failed completely to get any kind of record photo. Pel's Owl would have been good, but there has to be a reason to go back!

Incidentally, where is JNB airport? J'burg ?

I have checked and it's £300 pp less to fly to Cape Town or J'burg than Windhoek so that gives both a financial head start for my next outing!

Happy Christmas by the way!

 

They are very different, IMO. And I have only been to both once, so that makes any comparison even harder. Personally, I still rank Etosha a notch above Kruger. Mostly for its landscapes.

JNB is indeed O.R.Tambo, the Jo'burg main airport. Flying through JNB or CPT to WDH is less expensive then direct flights (if not using Qatar) as we did so twice.

Edited December 23, 2016 by xelas

[Big_Dog]

What wonderful pics from the hyaena den! Fantastic!

[xelas]

What wonderful pics from the hyaena den! Fantastic!

 

 

We are really glad you like them, @@Big_Dog ! Maybe we will be luckier with Wild Dogs next time?!