The Many Faces of Wild Kafue

[Kitsafari]

when we landed on the banks of Lufupa River to swap the boat for the vehicle that would take us to Busanga, there were beautiful lotus flowers and amazing butterflies. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The plains might have tried to hide the sables and lions from us, but other species were out to astound us, including the rare cheetah that @michael-ibk had described. I suppose nature is like that - it may hide things we so desperately wanted to see, but it rewards us when we least expect it. and when we see it, it is deeply satisfying. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

and all the other species and landscapes that can only mean....AFRICA....

 

 

 

James on a mound: 

 

the curiosity of a wildebeest and two..

 

with a cute baby

 

when feathers fly

 

 

a mother zebra and foal when another tried to chase the mum away but eventually they joined the group unassailed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and then one of my personal highlights - the completely unexpected sighting of the sables in Musekese. they were in turn magnificent, stunning, beautiful and regal. and what lovely and enchanting female sables they were - the milky chocolate coats were so unique.

 

 

 

My favourite antelope and they came to give us a grand sendoff. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 2017 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

How to cross a gully : 

 

 

 

 

 

[marg]

@Kitsafari...Yikes!

[screentraveller]

Dear Lynn, apart from Michael, you are my Safaritalkwriter favourite. The extra points Michael thinks you will get from me by telling him not to get out of the car to fotograph the lions, you already have. You can‘t get more points. I appreciate your fact based writing very much and I am happy you are such a good team.

Edited December 3, 2017 by screentraveller

[michael-ibk]

There´s no denying that Kafue in general does not pack the same game density some other parks have. It´s absolutely possible to drive around for quite some time and see nothing. (In our case the early rains will have added to that.) And nothing does not mean nothing except some antelopes in the background, it literally means nothing. Predatorwise especially we´ve had more sightings elsewhere. And the Tsetses really are a nuisance in some (not all) areas.

 

And yet. And yet. Kafue has a way of creeping into your soul. All the different landscapes, wide open grassy plains, open woodland, all dotted with beautiful wildflowers. The beauty that is Kafue river, peace- and powerful at the same time. Whenever the driving around without seeing too much can get a bit frustrating something totally cool and unexpected is bound to pop up, rare animals like Bushpigs or stunning versions of familiar animals like Sable. Nightdrives are incredibly productive. Diversity is king, you can expect to rack up a very impressive mammal count here. Birdlife is just fantastic - I was really happy to get beauties like the Rosy-Throated Longclaw, The Red-Throated Twinspot or the Böhm´s Bee-Eater.

 

And the most important aspect: Kafue is a vast, unpolished wilderness - and it is your private wilderness! We saw one other car at Konkamoya and had Musekese all to ourselves - the sheer distance to the next camps makes this as intimate as, maybe even more so than, Botswana´s concessions. Even on the Busanga plains we would see very few others, and none at all in "our" corner down at Ntemwa camp.

 

I absolutely loved that feeling of being in "wild and remote" Africa. Taking photos of Skimmers on the river, looking up to Roan in the golden morning light, finding a breeding herd of Sable when no longer expected, a Porcupine running from us, two African Wild Cat Kittens in the night, a Cheetah popping up to raise our predator count, the gorgeous setting and the wonderful hospitality of Musekese Camp - these are all perfect memories from this trip, and already the memories of the more frustrating elements are fading completely. A big part of the enjoyment from this safari stems from the excellent company - thank you, Lynn and Kit for being the perfect travelmates, and thank you Doug for being the extraordingary guide - and funny guy - you are. And one more big thank you to @Game Warden! Matt, without you and Safaritalk I would never have even known about Kafue and its camp, about Doug, and never would have met Kit or Lynn. My life really would be poorer without what you have accomplished with this site, and I am very grateful about that.

 

Yes, I certainly had safaris where I "saw more". But I don´t have a strong urge to return to some of those. But Kafue, I´m sure, will definitely see me again - and sooner rather than later, I hope.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 3, 2017 by michael-ibk

[Zubbie15]

I’m caught up now, the roan  and sable sightings were definitely special.  Imenjoyed the slightly different focuses and pictures from each of you, it’s always interesting to see how different people experience the same thing. Thanks for sharing @michael-ibk, @Atravelynn, @Kitsafari And @AndMic, another place that I’d love to visit, especially/hopefully with Doug.

[Caracal]

 

Great shot of the Finfoot footing it in #77 @Atravelynn    and is that a lazy or exceptionally optimistic croc lying with gaping jaw expecting food to enter voluntarily?

Your bushpig photos really show their distinctive grey/white manes –I’ve seen them twice in Kafue down south but only fairly fleetingly.

Thoroughly enjoyed your reporting as always and how good were those “last minute” sable.

[Caracal]

 

@Kitsafari- not sure about the bugshirts myself but you’re looking happy and relaxed in yours so good that they worked for you. Did you manage to strike each of your companions with that fly swat when trying to save them from bites?

Another great report Kit – sorry about the downtime when unwell – but that wonderful roan sighting would have been a good restorative. Loved the photos including the observations such as the lotus and butterflies. Great that you had the handsome sable “send off”.

[Caracal]

@michael-ibk -I’ve been following this special report with great interest. Loved the landscapes and the beautiful skies with those grand cloud formations (thanks to you and @AndMic) and the plains dotted with lechwe and birdlife took me back 10 years to my first visit to Kafue. Beautiful bird photos and those great vulture sequences and so much more including the wildcat kittens, cheetah, roan, wildebeest with calf, lion at eye level to name a few plus those magnificent better late than never sable.

In #107 you express my thoughts on Kafue so well when you say “it has a way of creeping into your soul” and that feeling of “being in wild and remote Africa”.

Glad to hear you’re already thinking of a return.

To you @michael-ibk @AndMic @Atravelynn and @Kitsafari   I say those “last minute” “send off” better late than never sable were Kafue’s way of calling you back – more so many more treasures to discover if you return.

Edited December 4, 2017 by Caracal
grammatical edit

[Atravelynn]

On 12/2/2017 at 5:44 PM, anocn4 said:

 

I love the bugsuit ideas. You ladies look very comfortable in them. Where can I get them? Would they be too heavy to pack? And is it hot to wear? Thanks!

Mine is a Buzzoff.  It is many years old, so there are probably newer and better ones.  One shot made it look like a seam ran across the eyeballs, obstructing your view.  I just had the netting hood positioned funny.

 

@Kitsafari  That is a kickin' zebra shot, literally! 

 

I envy your bushpig sightings, @Caracal

 

@screentraveller, Michael was never in danger and Doug took good care of us all.

 

@Grasshopper_Club August AND November is Double Kafue!  Good on you!

 

 

[Atravelynn]

On 12/1/2017 at 3:43 AM, AfricIan said:

Good to see the boat is still going strong @michael-ibk & like you, we spent most of our afternoons on the river, it really is a wonderful way to spend the time.  One big difference I can see is how little wind there appears to be compared to when we were there.

You are right that the wind made a big difference in the quality of our skimmer viewing.  They only skim when it is calm.  When the wind picked up, their skimming diminished or they moved to other sections of the sand island that were blocked from the wind.

On 12/2/2017 at 1:22 AM, optig said:

@Atravelynn As you probably know, @Kitsafari can't swim which only increases the high regard that I have of her. How did I miss that piece of info?   And of course I'm awed by the fact that you went on safari so recently after having broken your foot. I did get the doctor's ok. I just adore all your photos of the river. I think its fair to say that after this trip that Kafue is one of your favorite places. I 'm sure that after my visit next year Lucky You! that it will become one of mine. I notice that none of you are wearing fly suits even if Kafue has a terrible reputation for tsetse flies, although of course not along the river. Kit and I wore them at times and were glad to have them. I have to say that it was so kind and considerate of @micheal-ibk to bring you that lovely scarf. 

from  Austria. It was a joint gift from both Michael and Andreas. How did they know it would go so well with the bug suit?

 

On the pith casualty, I am sure Doug will forgive.  It probably is as good as new already.

 

 

[Alexander33]

What a lovely reminisce. Increasingly, it just becomes more and more important to see the last remaining wild places on our planet. Thank you for sharing your wonderful tribute to Kafue. 

[Atravelynn]

On 12/3/2017 at 10:03 AM, michael-ibk said:

TAnd one more big thank you to @Game Warden! Matt, without you and Safaritalk I would never have even known about Kafue and its camp, about Doug, and never would have met Kit or Lynn. My life really would be poorer without what you have accomplished with this site, and I am very grateful about that.

 

 

 So well put!  This place is a life enricher.  It doesn't just spring up on its own. Lots of care, nurturing, insight, updates, and blocking out porn by @Game Warden make all this possible.

[Atravelynn]

16 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

What a lovely reminisce. Increasingly, it just becomes more and more important to see the last remaining wild places on our planet. Thank you for sharing your wonderful tribute to Kafue. 

Thanks for reading and checking in.  I hate to think I am seeing a vanishing venue and  prefer to think of it as helping sustain these special places long term.  But you make a very valid point.

 

Post #92

Doug thought one of the shots of the trip would be @michael-ibk 's White Headed Vulture coming in for a landing.  I actually think the Yellow-billed Kite going after the Lappet-faced Vulture ranks ahead of the White-headed!

 

 

[Kitsafari]

1 hour ago, Atravelynn said:

 

Post #92

Doug thought one of the shots of the trip would be @michael-ibk 's White Headed Vulture coming in for a landing.  I actually think the Yellow-billed Kite going after the Lappet-faced Vulture ranks ahead of the White-headed!

 

 

 

I agree - i love that sequence of the kite attacking the vulture! great capture by @michael-ibk

[Kitsafari]

23 hours ago, Caracal said:

 

@Kitsafari- not sure about the bugshirts myself but you’re looking happy and relaxed in yours so good that they worked for you. Did you manage to strike each of your companions with that fly swat when trying to save them from bites?

 

Another great report Kit – sorry about the downtime when unwell – but that wonderful roan sighting would have been a good restorative. Loved the photos including the observations such as the lotus and butterflies. Great that you had the handsome sable “send off”.

 

 

 

@Caracal Michael bore the brunt of my ferocious swats !  that blunted my killer instincts and thereafter I left in the sound hands of Michael, except for the moment when he relished his revenge swatting that fly on my back. 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2017 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

21 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

Mine is a Buzzoff.  It is many years old, so there are probably newer and better ones.  One shot made it look like a seam ran across the eyeballs, obstructing your view.  I just had the netting hood positioned funny.

 

 

@anocn4 and I got mine from Canada's Bugshirt - http://www.bugshirt.com/products/original/

Lynn's bugsuit looked cooler but I wasn't sure if that was sufficient protection from the bites as those  nasties sure can penetrate mere cotton shirts and they apparently have a fetish for ankles too. 

[pault]

On 28 พฤศจิกายน 2560 at 7:12 PM, michael-ibk said:

I also had some issues with food. I mentioned before quality was very satisfactory, everthing we got was very nice. But ... for breakfast we only had one muffin, coffe and juice, no toast, cereals or anything like that. Which is no problem if you have a packed breakfast but we did not - and we were usually out until noon. "Their way" is returning to lodge at about 09:30 or 10ish, have a hearty breakfast then and a light lunch later. But for us, we came back at noon, were very hungry and only had the light lunch then - which definitely was too light for me. Only some Samosas and Potato Balls. I sat there thinking if I could go take one more Samosa or should rather not because then I would have one more than the others, would rob them of their fourth.  And even at Doug´s request they were not flexible enough to make some changes for us. I mean, it really cannot be very hard to prepare a small breakfast box with some sandwiches, can it? On our second day we returned a bit before noon and asked when lunch was ready. 10 minutes, they said, and so we decided to just stay and get to the tents later. It was 10 minutes again and again, and finally they served at 13:00. If they would have told us right from the start, fine, no problem, but this was a bit irritating.

 

No wonder you didn't see any cats - they'd have heard those gurgling tummies from a kilometre away! 

[pault]

Just starting to catch up but some weeks behind and it'll take a while as I don't seem to have any time for forums recently. Really nice report as usual and expected. @michael-ibkYou got some really lovely BIF shots - excellent - and Doug was quite right to get you out of the vehicle, even if it did nearly open up a space for Bibi on the Zakouma trip!  The first shot is fantastic - special!!! Why don't you give it just a little more light?  

 

Marmite te is perfect safari food if you can stomach it - very filling straight from the jar. When poor at university we'd eat it like that to keep away the hunger caused by having spent our food money on beer again. Good for hangovers too and Bibi swears a spoonful a day keeps the Mosquitos away too!

 

Love the balaclava @Atravelynn - you carry off ski lifts very well. Hope you and @Kitsafari keep on popping up with posts like this. More than happy to hear about this 2-3 times - you know I love that Rashomon thing! 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2017 by pault

[AfricIan]

7 hours ago, pault said:

Good for hangovers too and Bibi swears a spoonful a day keeps the Mosquitos away too!

 

This may be a lot more than wishful thinking @pault!  Being essentially yeast extract, Marmite is high in B vitamins which when metabolised are sweated out through the skin.  There were some well respected (& peer reviewed) papers published some 20-25 years ago that showed that doses of Vitamin B12 did ward off mosquitoes very effectively.  We did try it out on a couple of trips back in the 1990's and it did seem to work with a couple of caveats:

1) It has to be hot enough to make you sweat

2) The dose is quite high - we were taking ~10 Brewers Yeast tablets a day which causes havoc with your digestive system  (& trying to get the children to take them was an impossible task, given that we were also forcing Chloroquine & Proguanil down them as well)

 

If only I'd thought of Marmite , how was its anti-mossie effect for you @michael-ibk?

[michael-ibk]

On 4.12.2017 at 0:38 AM, Zubbie15 said:

Thanks for sharing @michael-ibk, @Atravelynn, @Kitsafari And @AndMic, another place that I’d love to visit, especially/hopefully with Doug.

 

Thank you, @Zubbie15, and you could not go wrong with Doug.

 

On 4.12.2017 at 4:01 AM, Caracal said:

@michael-ibk -I’ve been following this special report with great interest. 

Glad to hear you’re already thinking of a return.

To you @michael-ibk @AndMic @Atravelynn and @Kitsafari   I say those “last minute” “send off” better late than never sable were Kafue’s way of calling you back – more so many more treasures to discover if you return.

 

@Caracal, I know Kafue has a very special place in your heart, and so I am happy you enjoyed our report. When will you return, it can´t be long?

 

On 4.12.2017 at 7:45 AM, Alexander33 said:

What a lovely reminisce. Increasingly, it just becomes more and more important to see the last remaining wild places on our planet. Thank you for sharing your wonderful tribute to Kafue. 

 

@Alexander33 Thank you, Peter, let´s hope these places stay that way.

 

19 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

Doug thought one of the shots of the trip would be @michael-ibk 's White Headed Vulture coming in for a landing.  I actually think the Yellow-billed Kite going after the Lappet-faced Vulture ranks ahead of the White-headed!

 

 

Thank you Lynn, very kind. I was actually surprised they came out well.

 

17 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

Michael bore the brunt of my ferocious swats !  that blunted my killer instincts and thereafter I left in the sound hands of Michael, except for the moment when he relished his revenge swatting that fly on my back. 

 

 

I swear I swatted Kit very gently! And that Tsetse just had to die!

 

14 hours ago, pault said:

@AtravelynnMarmite te is perfect safari food if you can stomach it - very filling straight from the jar. When poor at university we'd eat it like that to keep away the hunger caused by having spent our food money on beer again. Good for hangovers too and Bibi swears a spoonful a day keeps the Mosquitos away too!@Kitsafari

 

Thanks, @pault - I am very familiar with that student food money problem myself!

 

5 hours ago, AfricIan said:

 

This may be a lot more than wishful thinking @pault!  Being essentially yeast extract, Marmite is high in B vitamins which when metabolised are sweated out through the skin.  There were some well respected (& peer reviewed) papers published some 20-25 years ago that showed that doses of Vitamin B12 did ward off mosquitoes very effectively.  We did try it out on a couple of trips back in the 1990's and it did seem to work with a couple of caveats:

1) It has to be hot enough to make you sweat

2) The dose is quite high - we were taking ~10 Brewers Yeast tablets a day which causes havoc with your digestive system  (& trying to get the children to take them was an impossible task, given that we were also forcing Chloroquine & Proguanil down them as well)

 

If only I'd thought of Marmite , how was its anti-mossie effect for you @michael-ibk?

 

I swear if I had known I would have eaten the entire glass before going to the Busanga woodlands, that´s for sure.

 

[Atravelynn]

On 12/4/2017 at 8:00 PM, Kitsafari said:

 

@anocn4 and I got mine from Canada's Bugshirt - http://www.bugshirt.com/products/original/

Lynn's bugsuit looked cooler (as in more air circulation) but I wasn't sure if that was sufficient protection from the bites as those  nasties sure can penetrate mere cotton shirts and they apparently have a fetish for ankles too. 

My Buzzoff bug suit is very dorky and uncool in a  fashion sense.  Kit's bug suit, on the other hand, could even be called stylish!

 

@pault, Sorry, I am still not sold on Marmite.  But nice try!

[xelas]

If I would say I have waited till it ends, I would lie. But reading this trio trip report in one go was a joy; beautiful photos, excellent videos and views and descriptions from three sometimes different angles, just awesome. Thank you for your hard work, both then and now, @michael-ibk, @Atravelynn and @Kitsafari. And my special award goes to @AndMic and his fabulous landscape photography. Rarely have I noticed how great and impressive clouds can be ... might be something to be more observant of. Luckily enough I will get the chance to ask the master himself, about tips and secrets. Clouds we will have, in abundance . 

Edited December 7, 2017 by xelas

[Atravelynn]

The real life safaritalk connections continue to grow, as you point out @xelas.  Thanks!