Musekese/Ntemwa, Kafue - A September Saga, from 5 ST members

[wilddog]

Go ahead @Galago Carol seems to be off the grid. Just hope she is not unwell.

I am really looking forward to hearing about what followed my time there.

Already interesting to hear @Zim Girl's comments on the pride in her TR.

Edited November 2, 2022 by wilddog

[wilddog]

Just to add, if each if you prefer to write a separate report that is fine, I just liked the idea of a saga.....

 

[Galago]

The idea of a Saga is a good one, so I'll jump in here. I won't do a day by day, just some thematic posts.  If @CaroleEor @Seniortravellerwant to post in between, no problems at all. @Zim Girlhas started a brilliant separate report, but just jump in too!

 

The itinerary was:

16th Sept LHR/LUN via Doha on Qatar

3 nights Musekese

4 nights Ntemwa

4 nights Musekese

28th Sept dayroom at Wild Dogs Lodge prior to LUN/LHR via Doha

All booked through Busanga Safaris. Like @wilddog, my go-to for safaris.

 

Anyway, before all these words get too tedious, let's have a taste of things to come:

 

 

I'd gone for the Qatar route because an earlier departure from LHR meant straight onto to charter to the Kafue on arrival and we could be in camp for late lunch. The turn round in Doha was 1hr 40 mins, tight in a very large airport but do-able - until I read @AfricIan 's post. Two things:

1. I monitored the LHR/ DIA flight for just over a week beforehand. Every single flight was late. 

2. I tore a ligament in my ankle and couldn't walk much. let alone run through an airport a la @AfricIan

Upshot: Flight arrived late, wheelchair guys brilliant, hilarious at speed trip through airport to boarding gate. Flight delayed 6 hours - but no info and ground staff a master class in unhelpfulness. 

3. The reason for this tedious tale of woe is really to flag this up because, since then, I've heard so many nightmare stories about Qatar, it's now my 'never again' airline - asnd that might be useful info.

 

However, and here's the good bit, Busanga Safaris, in the form of the wonderful Lesley, was entirely brilliant. She was awake because of jet lag from leading a trip in Brazil and she reorganised the charter flight.  

And now there's some good stuff......

[Galago]

Just to tell you a bit about the background to this trip. Looking back on the TRs from various STers including @Zim Girl@michael-ibkand @BotswanadreamsI wish I'd been brave enough to travel during those times but, in a new relationship (we met in 2020 - a lockdown romance!), it wasn't really an option. So, here we were, me concerned that he would like it, and he a complete safari virgin.....  

 

The journey wasn't a good start. The flight to Kafue was, unlike in the past, totally opaque from smoke through burning (a bit like LA in the summer), so slower and we had a mad rush to get across the river before it was completely dark. By the time we arrived in camp, 30 hours later, we were pretty gaga! However, Diane, the camp hostess, offered dinner in our room. I was amazed, having learned that you never have food in a tent, but - well, yes, thank you. 

 

Of course, for David, this was entirely weird. The whole place was almost entirely dark, he had no idea what he'd arrived at. And then Diane said, 'Oh, I'm sorry we have to take the vehicle to your room as a leopard has been seen.' As we arrive (at Leadwood, the furthest room), a leopard strolls away along the lagoon edge. I'm blown away. David has been at camp less than an hour - and he's seen a leopard!  I giggled all through the extremely good dinner. 

 

Enough of all this wordy preamble.  Next post will have pics and far fewer words!

 

But here's a pic that kind of sums up how I feel about Qatar Airways:

 

[AfricIan]

10 minutes ago, Galago said:

1. I monitored the LHR/ DIA flight for just over a week beforehand. Every single flight was late.

I stopped monitoring our flight because it was always late, sometimes 2hrs late leaving . With a 1hr 40m transfer time you must have been on QR008, I’d opted for QR004 which should have had a longer Doha transfer time but 004 always had a longer takeoff delay than 008 so they invariably landed very close together. 

[Galago]

Yes, exactly @AfricIanAnd I know you had a total race through the airport. I'd actually tried to change the flight to the earlier one (Lesley was away, leading a trip) but customer services were just  However, given the all-night delay, I'm glad I didn't! Next time though, it's just go for overnight at Pioneer, as it always was, and not be on such a schedule, I reckon. 

[Toxic]

@wilddog @CaroleE @Galagothank you for sharing this experience with us! I really like the idea of this 'saga' trip report, has been fun to continue the journey through the eyes of other members. 

[wilddog]

A leopard on arrival at Musekese; that is mega start for David's first time safari!

[Galago]

Safari through new eyes #1

 

It was such a joy to be back in the bush, and a big plus to be back at Musekese. But for David everything was new - the sounds, the smells, breakfast in the half-light round the campfire. Seeing James Duncan-Anderson there was a nice surprise and, even better, he was guiding us that day. Pre-sun rise, we're rolling slowly along the track out of camp when JohnD radios that he can hear dog contact calls. And then, there they are, three of them, looking around and softly calling.  @CaroleEhas much better shots of them, so I hope she'll post them.  Meanwhile, here are a few in the pre-dawn light during the 2 mins 30 secs they were in view.

 

 

 

 

 

This was unbelievable! It took me 12 years of safaris before I saw wild dogs (Liuwa, 2013), and David sees them in the first ten minutes of his first ever game drive, before the sun had come up even! Next day Musekese Conservation researchers confirmed that this was a new pack from outside the area and that there were five dogs, more detail in @Zim Girl's report.

 

David saw his first ele, well, first everything for him, but an interesting first for me too. This is the Musekese tree, not just any old Musekese tree, but THE Musekese Tree. Back in the day it was the drop off point for scouts and so they'd say, 'I'm going to Musekese'. The old J&M camp was named in honour of this tree.

 

 

And then it was leopard #2, a massive male sleeping in a tree.

 

 

 

And all that before morning coffee break! 

 

We opted for the river that afternoon. I'd told David a bit about what we might see, including Finfoot, but explaining that it's pretty secretive and can be tricky.  Within ten minutes of being out on the boat, one was posing obligingly.

 

 

 

The night drive produced leopards # 3,4 and 5, all female, two of them close together and pretty close to us.  Not very good pics, sorry, my little camera isn't great in the dark. 

 

 

 

 

In just 24 hours in the bush, David has seen 5 leopards, 3 wild dogs, a bull ele having a bath in front of our tent, plus all the usual suspects. I try to explain that this is not a typical day on safari and that he shouldn't expect too much tomorrow!

 

Edited November 6, 2022 by Galago

[AfricIan]

Incredible first day @Galago, I know that Musekese has the knack of coming up with the goods but even so....  After this I don't envy you explaining to David that a 4hr game drive & just 3 puku to show for it isn't that unusual 

 

It also make a mockery of Tyrone's comment to us on our first visit in 2015 that "Leopards round here don't climb trees"!!

[Galago]

@AfricIanI believe there are a lot more leopards there now. Certainly, I only had two fleeting glimpses when I was there in 2018. Perhaps they've started climbing trees to get away from all the other leopards!

[Galago]

Safari through new eyes #2

 

The next day we spent the morning at Musekese Conservation. It's such an interesting place, the work they are doing is brilliant and the research team we met was most impressive. Ty & Phil have made a great effort to have women at the heart of this endeavour, and it's paying off. The researchers we met were terrific. 

 

 

The comms room was amazing. They can see where each patrol is out in the field at any moment. Mind you, I didn't envy the patrols' supplies.

 

 

JohnD rigged up a snare to show us exactly how it works. It was utterly gruesome.

 

 

And David was dwarfed by a gigantic baobab.

 

 

 

Just as an aside, if you're at Musekese and you have the opportunity to visit MC, do go. However, unless it's later in October or into November, don't go by boat. Pre-sunrise, speeding down the river was sub-arctic, even with a hot water bottle and blanket, plus it's a long walk into camp over very tricky black cotton soil.  Go by road - and battle the tsetses!

 

On the way back we see a female lion, Tripod's sister, hunting puku. She goes behind some trees, but they've sussed her, and she goes hungry. But this was David's first lion!

 

The afternoon/evening drive was with Given, a young guide with Tusk & Mane in Lower Zambezi, who was working at Musekese for a while to gain more experience. He is great, keen as mustard and very engaging. For the first part it's all the usual suspects, Impala, Puku and lots of birds - all of which are lifers for David. And I'm entirely happy, looking, watching, enjoying - but also thinking, 'Ah, now he's getting to experience a more typical game drive'. 

 

We stop for sundowners and, while Given is setting up the table and pouring the G&Ts, we're chatting about the times when a guide has to say, 'Please get back in the vehicle. Now.' And I'm recounting my limited experiences of this while just starting on my gin, when Given says, 'Can you get back in the vehicle, please.' And there, not many metres away, a female lion has emerged from the long grass. Back in the vehicle, gin in hand, we track her. I think she is Mrs Tripod's sister, but I'm not sure. Anyway, let's call her the Sundowner Lion.

 

 

We're driving along slowly, Given spotlighting, when we get a call. Dogs are in front of our tent. Whaaat???  We have a way to go, and dogs move around so fast. What do we think? We all agree - Go For It! And Given drives like the wind with us two oldsters hanging on for dear life. We careen along the edge of the lagoon, in front of tents 5-2, and there they are, all five of them, right in front of the main deck. But they are not happy, oh no. In fact, they are kicking up one hell of a racket. Apparently, they took down a small antelope, (Impala, I think), killed it by drowning, at which point a crocodile tried to snatch it. But, no, Mrs Tripod came barrelling in and snatched it. As we arrived, she is walking off with a very soggy kill hanging out of her mouth and the dogs are going berserk. They are dancing all around her, making high pitched noises of total indignation.  She responds with two low pitched grunts - and no need to tell you what that means in human 

 

The end of day 2: a couple of lions, 5 dogs, a just missed kill but all the fascinating aftermath.

 

Once again, I'm saying, 'David, really, this doesn't happen often - honestly.' David looks entirely unconvinced

 

 

 

Edited November 6, 2022 by Galago

[Galago]

Just a little note to explain about the 'Tripod' names. Tripod is a male who lost a foot by being trapped in a snare. He went around with his brother and, as I understand, managed well. However, he has not been seen at Musekese for some time now.  Mrs Tripod is not related but, like Tripod, she has lost a foot from a snare. We did she her and, one night I woke to hear strange footsteps, irregular with a bit of a thump. I described this to James Duncan-Anderson next day and he said that would have been Mrs T walking past our tent. 

Seeing lions walking around with a whole foot missing because of a snare really brings home just how dreadful these traps are. 

 

There's also more info about a snare injury to a lion on @Zim Girl's TR Stuff Doing Stuff. 

[ice]

don't intend to hi-jack this thread, but since some of the previous posts relate three-legged lions, here is some footage of male called Liangata

 

 

[wilddog]

What a fantatic day. Sorry for the dogs but how amazing that Mrs Tripod could come 'barrelling in'. Well done old girl .

Edited November 6, 2022 by wilddog

[Galago]

No problem!@iceBut it's really sad. He's clearly suffering, there's a lot of focus on the wound, yet there's no comment about the damage poachers inflict or what can be/ is being done to prevent this. The commentator almost seems disappointed that this poor male lion wasn't attacked by the hyenas. I hope he joined forces with another male, like Tripod at Musekese, and survived. 

[Galago]

Safari through new eyes #3

 

The next day we were transferring to Ntemwa Busanga, so we decided to take the morning off and stay in camp. The sheer volume and intensity of sightings had left me exhausted! However, sitting on the main deck at Musekese is a real treat, all kinds of birds and critters out on the lagoon, coffee and homemade biscuits at your side. 

 

The transfer to Ntemwa takes a few hours: a short drive to the river, boat across and then a long drive to camp, mercifully in a closed vehicle with ample amounts of Doom spray, as the tsetses were legion. Tip: have a pee when you get off the boat because, once you're on the road you do not want to open that vehicle door!

 

So off we set from Musekese and there was leopard #2 in the same tree, still sleeping. We stopped briefly to admire the crown jewels, artfully arranged, and then carried on.

 

 

Exactly 5 minutes later - another leopard. Now this was getting silly. As a birder, I'm used to being really excited about seeing a particular bird but, as the days progress, I realise it's super-common or, as we say, a 'trash bird! But another leopard? Really? It was just before the turn-off for the boat, sitting in a tree, intently watching an antelope feeding.

 

 

 

 

 

Is this leopard #6 or is it one of the three we saw the night before last? it was hard to tell but, either way, before David's first 72 hours of safari were out, he'd seen at least five, and possibly six, different leopards. 

 

Round the campfire at Ntemwa we catch up with @CaroleE and have a laugh over dinner. Meanwhile, I'm having moments staring into space, (rather like this Serrated Hinged Terrapin), I'm thinking, 'Please, can someone tell me how to manage David's expectations over the coming days?'

 

 

Edited November 7, 2022 by Galago

[Galago]

Safari through new eyes #4

 

This report stops being day by day now and it's the last post on this theme. But suffice to say, the amazing sightings continued. Our first day at Ntemwa and we're off towards the Busanga Plains with James 2.  It's 7.15 am and we see the rather unusual sight of a leopard being followed/ kept an eye on by a large, male warthog.

 

 

But the leopard sees him off, of course. The leopard is a magnificent young male, 3-4 years old and just so handsome. It's almost as though he knows it, and he poses beautifully.

 

 

 

 

Leopard #6 or #7 turns out to be a total poser

 

 

 

And, having done his 'I'm ready for my profile, Mr de Mille', he scent marks the bushes

 

 

So, here we are just a few days into David's first safari and what a sightings list! I haven't talked about the birds (I will!), or the fun of seeing the usual suspects with a 'safari virgin'. But I will!

Put it this way, when we got back to Musekese, after 4 nights at Ntemwa, we went out on the boat with a very nice American couple and, after a while they said, 'Wow, we're so glad you're back, because it's been pretty quiet and now it's all happening.' 

 

I'm thinking of renting David out as a Good Luck Safari Talisman. Of course, ST'ers get mates rates 

Edited November 7, 2022 by Galago

[Galago]

I'll add a few more thematic posts but, in the meantime, if @CaroleEor @Seniortravellerwould like to add some posts, that would be fab!

Edited November 8, 2022 by Galago

[wilddog]

Absolutely fantastic @Galago

 

You certainly had some wonderful sightings. I think I might need to hire David next time. 😂

[Galago]

Safari through new eyes: a postscript

 

I should have added that the leopard sightings continued to the point that it was almost, 'Oh, it's just another leopard'. Well, never quite that blasé but...... 

 

One evening we saw leopards mating, not a common sight, and they also appeared on the far side of the lagoon during breakfast the next day. 

 

Having just left the Eden Pride snoozing under a tree, Gilbert spots a leopard, then two, then three! A male was guarding a kill in the tree, below were a mother and her one year old son. He climbed the tree, clearly in hopes of snaffling a bit, but was noisily rebuffed. He lay below, begging for food. This has already been covered by @Zim Girlwith great photos in Stuff Doing Stuff, so I'll just add a couple.

 

Climbing the tree and being rebuffed.

 

 

Begging for food.

 

 

 

It was our final morning at Musekese and, while we were packing to leave, Roy came rushing down to tell us that the dogs had been sighted again. We managed to see two of them from the deck, although they were quite distant. Again, @Zim Girlhas reported this with amazing photos in her TR, Stuff Doing Stuff.

 

And even as we are on the last leg of our trip, crossing the river to the airstrip, there's a leopard!

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, if you want to see leopards on a trip, DM me for David's rental rates 

 

 

 

[Zim Girl]

Great that you are posting from your trip @Galago.  Your number of leopard sightings is quite unreal and some lovely ones out in the open.  David really was your lucky charm.  We didn't see any while up at Busanga, so very jealous of that great sighting.  Interestingly, we drove to Ntemwa in an open vehicle and there was only a problem with tsetses in a couple of places.

How amazing, a kill by the dogs right in front of camp and great that Mrs Tripod is managing to scavenge some food, although she is being seen more often around camp (see my next posts) and that might not bode well for the future if she becomes a problem.  We asked Phil about that and he said he's trying not to think about it just yet.

We also went up to the APU to see the Musekese Conservation operation and I did laugh at all those tins of corned beef in the stores.

 

 

[AfricIan]

1 hour ago, Zim Girl said:

we drove to Ntemwa in an open vehicle and there was only a problem with tsetses in a couple of places

 

That was our experience back in 2015 as well, they were only really noticeable in the Miombo woodlands - a bit like the road to the APU.

[CaroleE]

On 11/2/2022 at 10:09 PM, wilddog said:

Go ahead @Galago Carol seems to be off the grid. Just hope she is not unwell.

I am really looking forward to hearing about what followed my time there.

Already interesting to hear @Zim Girl's comments on the pride in her TR.

Hi, I wasnt feeling great for a while (better now), real life kept getting in the way and then my laptop wasn't working properly. So everything added up to me not continuing from where I left off :-(

But good to see others have continued our Kafue adventures. I will add some more when laptop issues are resolved.

[wilddog]

Glad you are okay now, @CaroleE

Please add when you are ready.