Uganda - Gorillas, Chimps, and Much More

[NancyS]

Last month, January 2023, I made my 1st trip to Uganda. It was my 4th trip to Africa. I previously went to Tanzania, Botswana, and Kenya. My main reason for going was to see the gorillas. In planning I realized that I could see chimps also - all the better. After much research I decided to go Wyclef Rushaju and his company Gorillas & Beyond Safaris. That turned out to be an excellent decision. I gave him the list of places that we wanted to go, we discussed options, and he put together an excellent itinerary. He was our driver, our guide, and our companion/friend. All at a very reasonable cost. I would definitely recommend his company for trip to Uganda. In the end there were 5 of us going. We were there 15 days. We went to:

Entebbe - Airport Link Guesthouse - 2 nights

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary - 1 night

Murchison Falls NP - Pakuba Safari Lodge - 2 nights

Kibale NP - Turaco Treetop Lodge - 2 nights

Queen Elizabeth NP - Enganzi Game Lodge - 2 nights

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - Bweza Gorilla Lodge - 3 nights

Lake Bunyonyi - Bunyonyi Eco Resort - 2 nights

Lake Mburo NP - Arcadia Lodge - 1 night

Entebbe - head home

 

 

[NancyS]

Preview of the gorillas

 

[wilddog]

A great start!

[Tom Kellie]

~ @NancyS:

 

The Uganda itinerary covers locations of great interest.

 

Thank you for preparing a trip report about your experience.

 

Each of your places will be interesting to read about and see.

 

      Tom K.

[NancyS]

After a long, but uneventful trip my friend Mary and I arrived in Entebbe Jan 6th around 11pm and Wyclef was there to take us to the place where we were staying for 2 nights.

 

 

 

The next morning we got an early start with a boat ride on Lake Victoria to Ngambo Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary. This is a place where 52 orphaned and rescued chimps live. They have the run of the island during the day to roam and forage and they sleep at the sanctuary at night. They also get supplemental feedings several times a day. The public can come to view them when they come out of the forest for their lunch. I have always loved chimps so this was a great start to the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Keepers bringing their lunch

 

 

 

I'm seeing their human resemblance here.

 

 

As a former teacher I smile every time I see this pic! Although my students did not have such long arms! He is trying to get the keeper's attention to throw him some food. 

 

 

grooming

 

 

 

 

 

I only wished that I had booked the overnight visit that is available. If I ever go back to Uganda I will do that for sure.

 

 

 

My other 3 travel companions arrived Sat night. Sunday morning we were on a boat on Victoria Lake again. This time heading to Mabamba Swamp in search of the shoebill.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We even saw her feeding her baby (but I did not get a shot of that unfortunately). So another great day! 

 

Edited February 20, 2023 by NancyS

[Atravelynn]

Great shoebill stuff!  I had the same reaction as you did when I visited Ngamba and I did book 2 or 3 nights the next trip.  See if there is a volunteer opportunity if you go again.  You have an extensive itinerary.  Looking forward to the rest.

Edited February 20, 2023 by Atravelynn

[Frostfire]

Looking forward to following this thread! Great first pictures, particularly of the shoebill.

 

We followed a similar itinerary, but in reverse around Christmas and New Year in 2019 and fell in love with the country. Will be nice to see how things are going now! We are still in contact with our guide and he says that after some very tough times for tourism in Uganda, things are looking back up again and more people are visiting Uganda fully instead of just as an gorilla add-on to Tanzania or Kenya safari's. 

[NancyS]

@atravelynn While I was there I "adopted" PASA. She was so funny. After the others headed back into the forest, she remained at the fence. She would clap 3 times and then just sit there waiting for someone to feed her which no one did because all the food was now gone. After patiently waiting a bit she would clap again, still with no results. At that point we all left and so did she.

[NancyS]

@frostfire Yes, our guide talked about the difficult times during covid as well. It does seem that things are really picking up for them now. 

[NancyS]

After our trip to the swamp and boat ride on Victoria Lake, we headed back to where we were staying for lunch. Then we headed out. Next stop, Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, about a 3 hr drive from Entebbe. We arrived a little before dinner and then spent the night there. 1st thing in the morning went on a rhino trek. Well we did not actually have to go anywhere as the rhinos were right there. At one point they were right at the building that we were staying in. I loved staying right there on the grounds with them. It was really cool. The ranger walked us around and told us all about the sanctuary and the rhinos. He made sure that we were always positioning ourselves where we could safely watch the rhinos and as they moved, so did we. Along with the rhinos there was other wildlife on the property as well.

 

 

That building is were we were staying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our ranger

 

 

 

 

These two gave us a good show pushing each other back and forth.

 

 

After the rhino walk we had breakfast, then packed up and headed out for Murchison Falls NP. It was about a 3 hr drive. Once there we did a mini game drive and headed to see the top of Murchison Falls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The only leopard that I saw on this trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wyclef slicing us a chunk of fresh pineapple for a little snack. It was delicious.

 

 

Mary and I

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So another great day. Wish I was still there.

 

 

[Toxic]

Beautiful photos @NancySand looking forward to following along with the rest of your report. Thanks for sharing! 

[NancyS]

Spent 2 nights at Pakuba Safari Lodge. Saw wart hogs, water bucks, and baboons on the property.

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning we did a safari through the park on the way to the river for a boat trip up the Nile to the bottom of Murchison Falls. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This elephant has a damaged trunk. It reminds me of Enkesha, an elephant that I met at the Sheldrick's Umani Springs Reintegration Unit in Kenya. She had been found with a wire snare around her trunk.

 

 

 

 

 

At the boat landing

 

 

We were supposed to go in a large boat but Wyclef arranged for just the 5 of us to go in a small boat. This allowed us to stop where we wanted to, to be able to get better views of the various birds and other wildlife along the river. So glad we were able to do that. There were lots of birds along the river. There were also crocodiles, hippos, and elephants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[NancyS]

The next day we were off for a long drive (about 6 hrs) to Kibale NP. There is a lot of driving on this trip. About every other day we are headed off to a new location. It is good to see all of these areas, but be aware of the driving involved. It is a great way to actually see the country and the people though. As we drive along there is always people everywhere. They are walking down the road, on motorcycles carrying amazing loads. I saw one motorcycle carrying a loveseat, another one carrying a huge water tank so big you could barely see the motorcycle, another with huge bundles of bananas. Sometimes many people are on one motorcycle. The most I saw was 3 adults and 2 children on one motorcycle! Of course in villages the road is lined with little shops and food stands and lots of people. Very interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch stop along the way.

 

 

 

And then finally we arrive at our next lodging, Turaco Treetop Lodge, our home for the next 2 nights, just in time for dinner.

 

 

 

The next morning we are off for our chimpanzee trek in Kabale NP!!

 

Our guide

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These 2 spent a long time carefully grooming each other, even in very delicate areas like around the eyes. While one groomed the other just sat there patiently.

 

 

I love seeing chimps in the wild and LOVED my time with them. I want to do that again for sure. They really did not care that we were there watching them. They just went about their business. What a privilege to be able to do this.

 

 

 

[NancyS]

After visiting the chimps we headed out for a Bigodi community visit. We started with a lunch of Ugandan food fixed just for us in a home. 

 

 

After lunch we had a nice walk into the community. There we made several stops. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our 1st stop was to see how coffee is made from the coffee beans that they grow there. This shows the various stages that the coffee goes through.

 

 

 

Next we stopped to see the witch doctor and he explained about his various medicines. He also talked about how to get rid of a person that you do not like. Not too sure about that.

 

 

 

Then on to see how they make banana juice, banana beer, and banana liquor. We got to taste all 3. I liked the banana juice. The liquor was very strong.

 

 

 

 

Then on to see the ladies making beautiful woven baskets and other items. Several of us, myself included bought some. Their prices were very good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning we were back in the community for a swamp tour where we got to see birds and monkeys. I was more interested in the monkeys and the birds were harder to get photos of.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we headed out,  more monkeys (sitting on the road)

 

 

 

 

Back in the vehicle again and on to Queen Elizabeth NP. There we saw the expected cast of characters with one unusual addition. That was the tree climbing lions. The photo is not good because we were a good distance away. But still I was very glad that I was able to see that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

From the primates and monkeys to Ziwa rhinos to the tree climbing lion and the birdlife at the falls, you excelled!  Pineapple too!

[NancyS]

While visiting QENP we stayed at Enganzi Game Lodge. It was a nice place and the grounds were very pretty. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the morning game drive, we headed to the water for another boat ride, this time to the Kazinga Channel. Lot of birds, hippos, buffalo, and my favorite - elephants.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I love watching elephants playing in the water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I did not know that buffalo, elephants, and hippos all get along in the same space.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning we headed out again. This time toward Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. We passed several tea plantations. We did have a stop to make along the way. Wyclef's aunt had passed away and this was the morning of the funeral. So Wyclef took us to his village and his home where the village people were gathered and eating before the service. We stopped briefly at his house and we met his wife and two boys and others. Then he took us to town for lunch, while he went back to attend the service. We were glad that it worked out that by adjusting our schedule slightly we could be in that area on that day so that he could attend. For weddings and funerals the whole village attends so it was important for him to be there. 

 

 

Then into the mountains. The roads were rough and narrow here and I am very glad that I am not driving. But we made it to our next lodge, Bweza Gorilla Lodge, which is owned by our guide Wyclef. I do not think that I am biased when I say that it was the best place that we stayed at on this trip. We stayed there 3 nights and felt right at home there. The staff is fantastic. Very friendly and helpful. From cleaning our shoes after gorilla trekking, putting hot water bottles in our beds, insisting on carrying everything for us ..... The food was great. And the views of Bwindi amazing. And the lodge is about a 10 min drive to the Rushaga Gate for gorilla trekking so that is a perfect location.  The gate is by the Batwa (pygmy) village and we were able to walk there from the lodge the next day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view from my porch

 

 

 

 

 

 

Misty morning

 

 

 

The view looking at Bweza Gorilla Lodge. Additional rooms are in construction on the left.

 

 

[AKR1]

Bweza looks very nice. Your pictures and report illustrate your report well. Look forward to the Gorillas. 

[Kitsafari]

The lodge looks cosy and lovely. 

You saw so many primate species! Wonderful.

 

Looking forward to the Gorllas

 

 

Edited February 25, 2023 by Kitsafari

[NancyS]

The next morning we headed out on a hike from the lodge to the local pygmy community. It was great to be out walking around exploring the area. The weather has been perfect the whole trip. It's been warm but not too hot and no rain.

 

 

Walking through the tea plants

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The oldest woman in the village greeted us when we arrived and was part of the welcoming dance. These community visits (which you pay to do) help the community to survive. Many years ago they were moved out of the forest to preserve the gorillas habitat thereby losing their livelihood and way of life. 

 

 

 

 

Demonstration of their fire making skills

 

 

While in the community we saw the Rushaga Gate where we would be going the next day for GORILLA TREKKING!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day we drove to the start of the gorilla trek which was a short drive from our lodge. We were all very excited and a little apprehensive about how strenuous the trek might be. 

While the rangers were collecting the tickets and getting that together we were entertained with the village women singing and dancing. We then had a short briefing before being assigned to our gorilla group. 

 

 

 

I was excited to see that we were assigned to the Bweza group since we were staying at the Bweza Gorilla Lodge. That seemed appropriate. 

 

 

Next we were back in our vehicles for a drive to where our trek was going to begin. We had all hired a porter and that was a good thing. Not only does that provide a job for the porter but it turned out to be very much needed! I was not carrying much just water, a camera, and rain jacket just in case, which the porter carried. But the real value of getting a porter is that they help you with the trek and although I consider myself to be fairly fit that help was really needed. My porter pretty much held my hand the whole time as we were constantly going up, down, or several times across a log over a stream. He would also point out the best places to place my foot which was really helpful. A wrong step would have you sliding or might land your foot into a hole.

We started out going up. Then the trakking rangers said that the gorillas were moving down, so we headed down.  Next we were going up again and that's how it went. I do not know how long we were trekking but it seemed like a fairly short although the trekking was very slow going. It was so exciting when the gorillas were spotted. They were in a challenging location on the side of the mountain so it was difficult to find a spot where you could stand and still get a good view. And they do not necessarily stay in one spot. The big silverback kept sliding down the mountain on his butt. That was funny but then we would have to figure a way down also. Every place it not good for walking! Consequently I do not have a lot of good photos. But still, it was unbelievable to be in their presence. If they say it was an hour, I don't know. It seemed like a short time which flew by. Soon we were heading out and it turns out at that point we were fairly close to the road. We got out to the road and waited for our guides to come to pick us up. We did get our trekking certificates. They want us to put them on our wall at home with hopes that people will see it, ask about it, and they will get more visitors. To me it was a peak experience and I would love to do it again.

(Well actually we did do it again the next day at Mghinga NP. More on that next time.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The best day ever!

 

 

 

 

[NancyS]

Well thankfully we have another chance to see gorillas. This time at Mgahinga NP. We left early, before breakfast, to get to our morning trek. The final road to Mgahinga is the worst road we travelled on this trip, it was really rough and slow going. By the time we got there it was time for the trek so we very quickly ate a little of the breakfast that we had brought and headed to the briefing and then off we went. 

This trek was much easier than Bwindi. We walked a longer distance, but it was not up and down a mountainside. We did hire the porters but this time other than carrying my pack, which I could have done, I did not really need his assistance. 

 

 

View of the volcano seen at the beginning of the trek. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then we arrived where the gorillas were. This time they were not on the side of a mountain and were not on the move so we were able to just be in their presence and observe them. Again they did not pay us any attention and just went about doing what they were doing - resting, eating, playing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was so funny to see them climb up on skinny little trees, which sometimes would break, and then the gorilla would fall down, although not usually to the ground, often to another tree/branch. Sometimes when you could not see them, you could hear branches breaking as the moved around.

This little guy kept getting in his siblings space and sometimes the older one would swat the younger one away. But he would just come right back. Funny

 

 

 

 

The trackers who locate the gorillas.

 

 

This was such an exciting viewing. At one point, one of the younger gorillas walked past me within an arm's reach. I was so amazed that I just stood there until I realised that the ranger was saying retreat, retreat to me. At that point I backed up.

Of the whole trip, this was the best experience and I want to go back there again sometime if I get the chance.

[NancyS]

After our wonderful gorilla trek, it was on to Lake Bunyonyi. Spent two nights and a relaxing day there. The rooms had a balcony with beautiful lake views. A couple of people in our group were not feeling well so they got a chance to rest and recover. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the morning we headed out for a boat tour of the lake. It was very calm and peaceful. This is prisoner island which has a long, sad story of unwed, pregnant women being left here to die. But today it is home for many birds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day we were on the road again heading for Lake Mburo NP, our last stop on this trip.

Along the way, we stopped to check out a small pond with birds. 

 

 

 

 

 

While in the field looking at the birds, suddenly a whole herd of cows headed into the field! They were not interested in us fortunately.

 

Edited March 1, 2023 by NancyS

[Pamshelton3932]

What a wonderful trip you had!  I’m so thankful you took the time for a trip report.  You had stops on your itinerary that I missed, so it was nice to see more of Uganda through your lens.  

[NancyS]

Our final destination - Lake Mburo NP. It was late in the day when we arrived. We did a short game drive, then on to dinner, and bed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next morning we picked up the ranger who was going to lead us on a walking safari.

 

 

Af first it was very foggy, but the fog soon lifted. We finally saw our 1st zebras of the trip (except for one we saw on a private island in Lake Bunyonyi).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was great to walk in the field with lots of animals, loved it. They did not seem to mind us at all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our group

 

 

Later that day we had to head back to Entebbe. A couple of us had flights home late that evening and a couple were staying in Uganda a few more days. We all went back to the Airport Link Guesthouse. Mary and I had a day room. Later that evening Wyclef took us to the airport for our trip home. It was so sad to be leaving.

It was a great trip thanks to Wyclef and my travel companions (3 of which I had just met on this trip). We had a great time, with so many great experiences. I know we did not see the whole country, but we did see a lot of that part of the country and met a lot of nice people along the way. I really liked that.

My peak experiences were the time with the chimps, the gorillas, the walking safari among all of the animals. Those are times that I will never forget.

 

 

[Pamshelton3932]

The blue shirt!  

[NancyS]

yeah I know - i see i need to get a more muted color!