Senegal Birding

[Safaridude]

Senegal Birding - February 2023

 

Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Ranch de Bandia

 

Purple starling (or Purple glossy starling), Fathala Wildlife Reserve

 

 

To most, “African savanna” conjures up grasslands and woodlands of a half of dozen or so countries in East and Southern Africa.  Not too dry and not too wet, the perfect “tweener” climate of these countries produces prolific wildlife that is easily visible to safarists.  There is another Africa, however, that is quite similar but relatively unknown.  It runs from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania in the west to western Ethiopia in the east in a band with a variable north-south width of roughly 600 – 1,700 miles.  Sandwiched between the dry Sahara Desert and the wet Guineo-Congolian Rainforest, this Africa, too, aided by the tweener climate, produces African savanna.

 

It shall be no surprise then that many of the grasses, trees, reptiles, birds, mammals, etc. found in East and Southern Africa are also found there.  But not all.  Perhaps it is the calendrical inversion of the rainy/dry seasons (there, the rainy season occurs during the dry period in East and Southern Africa) or the numerous physical barriers, such as mountains and lakes, between here and there that have spawned the speciation and subspeciation:  some things are very different there and worth seeking out if you are a keen observer of nature.

 

There is no consensus among naturalists as to what to call the various parts of there.  “Splitters” will chop up the region into many categories:  Sudano-Sahel”; “Sub-Sahel”; “Sudan-Guinea Savanna”; “Guinea Savanna”, etc.  Generally though, the most accepted approach is to split the region into two.  The drier and relatively barren north, its vegetation dominated by evergreen and thorned bushes and trees, is called the Sahel or the Sahel Biome, and the wetter and more vegetated south, its vegetation dominated by deciduous and thornless bushes and trees, is called the Sudanian Biome.  I will stick to this approach here.

 

I have visited Pendjari National Park in Benin and Zakouma National Park in Chad, both of which are there, but that was before my slow descent into the mad, mad, mad world of birding.  A birding trip to Senegal to seek out the Sahel and Sudanian specialties was drawn up during my descent into the birding rabbit hole but thwarted due to the COVID lockdowns.  Delayed but not to be denied, the trip was rescheduled and completed in February 2023.  

 

The Gambia and Ghana are popular West African destinations for birders.  While both countries produce the gamut of Sudanian Biome species (and some Guineo-Congolian Biome species as well), Senegal offers a great selection of Sahelian species in addition to producing most of the Sudanian species.  Sadly, there isn’t another country in Africa aside from Senegal where one can view several of the Sahelian species without taking on personal safety risk.  And Senegal offered a bonus – a possible glimpse of western giant eland (a precariously endangered subspecies of giant eland), reduced to no more than 200 in the wild.  That story is for another day.  I shall focus on the birding in this report.

 

The trip was very typical of any Senegalese birding trip:  4 nights in the north of the country for the Sahelian specialties (the visit included the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary) and the rest of the trip in the various southern parts of the country for the Sudanian species.  Specifically, the trip consisted of:

 

-       One night at Ranch de Bandia (a staging post in Sindia just southeast of Dakar and across the street from Bandia Reserve)

-       Two nights at Campement Njagabar near Djoudj

-       One night at Auberge du Tékrour in Podor

-       One night at Gîte d'étape in Richard Toll

-       One night at Adjana Hotel in Kaolack

-       Two nights at Fathala Wildlife Reserve near Karang

-       One night at Keur Saloum in Toubakouta

-       Three nights at Nioko Lodge in Parc National du Niokolo-Koba (PNNK)

-       Two nights at Campement de Wassadou on the edge of PNNK

-       A day-room at Baobab Soleil (again, near Bandia Reserve in Sindia)

 

Not that the itinerary was planned exactly this way… Our hilariously inept ground operator buggered our itinerary, so we had to “make a plan” (or more precisely, “make several plans”) along the way to hold this trip together.

 

I was guided by Rod Tether, he of the Kutandala fame (Kutandala Camp was a small, “boutique” camp out in the middle of nowhere in North Luangwa, Zambia that Rod and his wife, Guz, ran from 2001 to 2012, famous not only for the lion - buffalo interactions, but also for the legendary bush kitchen’s “Guztatory” triumphs), who is now one of the principals of Natural High Safaris.  Having moved to France several years ago, Rod is fluent in French and would serve as a guide-cum-interpreter.  Though this was his first time to West Africa, this birder extraordinaire would somehow instantly recognize nearly every bird call by species.

 

Rod, in his familiar pose

 

The local guide was Ansu Dunor.  It turns out Ansu does knowr – everything.  Patient, perceptive, and persistent, Ansu would flush out nearly all the species we had hoped to see.  Though Gambian, he conducts birding trips in Senegal as well as The Gambia.  He speaks very good English, and even though he only speaks basic French, he speaks Wolof, which is the local language of choice in Senegal.  I cannot imagine a better birding guide for Senegambia.  On top of his vast and patch-specific birding knowledge, Ansu endeared us with his sweet and gentle disposition.

 

Ansu

 

Available on the internet are several Senegal birding trip reports that list what and how many were seen where.  I could do the same thing here, but that wouldn’t add much marginal value.  I will take a different approach here instead to (1) describe my general impression of each place we visited and the bird species seen well at the place; and (2) highlight such species themselves.  The species discussion will have a nearly exclusive emphasis on the Sahelian and Sudanian endemics and near-endemics (and a couple of Guineo-Congolian species that sneak their way into Senegal), at the expense of Afrotropical (widespread across many different biomes in Africa) species.  Trust me, there are loads of Afrotripical species in Senegal (too many to mention), but I will almost entirely skip discussing them in the name of brevity.

Edited April 10, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Part One - The Places We Visited

 

Bandia Reserve/Ranch de Bandia/Baobab Soleil

 

A group of brown babblers making a racket, Ranch de Bandia

 

Located in Sindia, a town 25-minutes south of the Blaise Diagne International Airport, the Bandia Reserve is a small private reserve that is host to a hodgepodge of endemic mammals (roan antelope, western giant eland, western kob, etc.) and exotic mammals (white rhino, southern giraffe, zebra, etc.).  Literally across the street is Ranch de Bandia, an affiliated (?) lodge offering comfortable bungalow units and great food in a large park-like setting, complete with its own herds of ungulates.  Baobab Soleil is a hotel within a stone’s throw from Ranch de Bandia and is located in a garden-like setting.  It is a well-managed and well-priced gem.  Just outside the gate of this hotel is a small but somewhat preserved baobab parkland with good birding.  

 

Long-tailed glossy starling, Baobab Soleil

 

Most birding trips to Senegal whisks you north from the airport to overnight at Thiés, in order to get a jumpstart on the following day’s long road trip to the northern birding destinations.  I believe this to be a mistake, because overlooked is the ease with which certain Sahelian and Sudanian bird species (essentially, Sindia happens to be located on the boundary between the Sahel and Sudanian biomes) can be seen in this baobab and Acacia seyal-dominated landscape.  Another plus is the fact that the birds tend to be tame here, because they are so used to the presence of humans.  At the Bandia Reserve, day visitors can hire a reserve vehicle with a driver and a guide for a standard two-hour tour.  At Ranch de Bandia, you can bird around the walking trail that goes around the bungalows.  And at Baobab Soleil, you can birdwatch by the pool/garden or take a walk outside the gates in the baobab parkland.  Long-tailed glossy starling, western red-billed hornbill, Abyssinian roller, and Senegal thick-knee (especially near the big pond at the Bandia Reserve) were common and easily observed.  Yellow-crowned gonolek, Senegal parrot, rose-ringed parakeet, Senegal eremomela, white-rumped seedeater, and brown babbler were also seen.

 

The scene outside my bungalow at Ranch de Bandia

[Safaridude]

Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary

 

Great white pelicans

 

White-breasted cormorants

 

Located about 90 minutes due north of the historic St. Louis, this vast delta is a haven for various aquatic birds.  Countless such birds breed here, and great white pelicans and white-faced whistling ducks are dominant in their thousands, followed by cormorants (both white-breasted and long-tailed).  The huge colonies of these large aquatic birds are a true spectacle.  And while there is a load of humanity in the periphery of the delta, the delta itself appears untouched.   A sturdy, comfortable boat can be hired for a multiple-hour journey through the sanctuary where you can easily go through more memory cards than you had planned.  Interestingly, while the big aquatic birds are all around, as Rod pointed out, for some reason there is a certain dearth of small waders, kingfishers, and bee-eaters.  In terms of pure scale of aquatic birdlife, however, this boat ride may be unrivaled in Africa. 

 

More pelicans

 

... and more

 

The Sahelian specialties to seek out on dry land at Djoudj are river prinia and the two elusive bustards – Arabian and Savile’s.  River prinias are surprisingly common and often heard in thickets near water.  There are only a few Arabian bustards left at Djoudj, and Savile’s bustards are even rarer.  Searching for the bustards involve a combination of scoping and simply walking through the vast scrubland on the periphery of the Delta in hopes of flushing them out.  In the end, an Arabian bustard was seen from a long distance after an extended search, but Savile’s bustard (later to be seen near Kaolack) eluded us.  If you believe in the subspeciation of crested lark, Galerida cristata senegallensis (oddly, officially spelled with two “l”s) is another Sahelian specialty found easily at Djoudj.

 

Chestnut-bellied starling, Sudan golden sparrow, black scrub-robin, African collared-dove, and cricket warbler (or cricket longtail), all Sahelian specialties, occur at Djoudj but are much better represented in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  Senegal thick-knees are common. A yellow-crowned gonolek was heard and seen.  Most visitors see a flock or two of black crowned cranes, but we were unlucky.  Troops of patas monkeys seem to have staked their claim to the ruins of Hotel Djoudj, now closed.  Several relaxed warthogs and an African golden wolf were also seen.

 

We actually had intended to stay about an hour southeast of Djoudj, but the aforementioned, bungling ground operator put us up at Campement Njagabar, located right next to Djoudj, instead.  Had we been able to follow our original itinerary, we would have been closer to the “Marigots”.   Marigot 1 and Marigot 2, each named after a tributary, are surrounded by dry scrubland favored by Savile’s bustards.  We never made it to the Marigots because of the distance, but the upshot of staying close to Djoudj was that we were able to partake in the boat ride first thing in the morning before the crowds arrived.  Campement Njagabar (fittingly, the local name for pelican), at first glance, appears to be old and run-down.  Well, it is.  But everything still works, it is the closest lodging choice to Djoudj, and, improbably, it serves decent food.  It is no matter that Njagabar sits some distance away from civilization.  Freshly baked baguettes with butter must be served for breakfast, and each morning at dawn a man on a bicycle would deliver them from a boulangerie 30-mintues away, presumably having rode in the dark.

 

A very relaxed African golden wolf (formerly, golden jackal)

 

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Richard Toll/Podor

 

Chestnut-bellied starling foraging on bare ground

 

East of Djoudj, open woodlands mainly composed of Acacia raddiana (a subspecies of A. tortilis (umbrella thorn)) and Balanite aegyptiaca (desert date) stretch for miles.  Most of this dry country, I am told, is village grazing land.  Some pockets have healthy grass cover, but the majority of the area is overgrazed by cattle and shoats.  But the most conspicuous feature of this landscape is the rubbish, mostly plastic in origin, strewn about.  The scale of it is as bad as I have seen on this continent.  All that will be leaching into the water supply for years to come.  Soon, naturalists will have to rename this area.  The Polyethylene Biome?  It would be fitting.  Despite the rubbish, there is plenty of Sahelian habitat.  While the landscape may appear uniform, “patch birding” is required to find certain species due to the subtle differences in microhabitats.  Certain species tend to concentrate near this one village, and certain species not; certain other species tend to like that spot there with a particular concentration of polyethylene, and certain species not, etc.  My impression is that each local guide has his go-to spots.  Ansu does have his favorite patches, but he is also in continual contact with other guides for the latest information on what species were seen at which patch.  Without such a guide with the local knowledge, the Richard Toll/Podor area would be next to impossible to bird effectively.

 

At a relatively treeless, overgrazed patch, we did well with Sudan golden sparrow, chestnut-bellied starling, fulvous chatterer (or fulvous babbler), and chestnut-bellied sandgrouse.  Nearby the Richard Toll Airport is an open woodland with short and medium-height trees that is a hotspot for cricket warbler (or cricket longtail).  Black scrub-robin is widespread but does particularly well around the town dump (yes, there is one that is supposed to be used).  Closer to Podor, a particularly mature open woodland near a village produced little grey-woodpecker, Vieillot’s barbet, and African collared-dove, and a nearby hotspot for sennar penduline-tit delivered.  

 

Vieillot's barbet

 

Black scrub-robin

 

Ten minutes outside the town of Podor, a riverine floodplain hosts the golden nightjar.  Ansu had been there earlier in the season and had seen what many birders consider the bird of the Sahel.  But now, a large “mining” project (digging up dirt for road-building material, we believe) was in progress.  Ansu was told that there would be multiple shifts per day so that the unearthing would continue through the night, continuously disturbing the nightjars.  We searched the area from late afternoon into evening, but the golden nightjar (heard and possibly seen flying) eluded us.  We settled for a good view of a roosting long-tailed nightjar.  

 

Gîte d'étape in Richard Toll is clean and comfortable with good food, friendly service, and a pretty view of the Senegal River.  It was probably the best “bang per buck” lodging option on this trip.   Auberge du Tékrour in Podor is also right on the Senegal River and is decidedly French.  The restored 200-year-old house is full of history and character.  The owners manage the place, and they will join you at the communal table for dinner.

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Kaolack

 

Who knew Kaolack would be such a busy place?   Several major roads of Senegal converge here, and the place bustles with commerce and traffic.  Kaolack not only serves as a convenient overnight stopover when traveling south from northern Senegal, but also offers the spectacle of thousands of scissor-tailed kites (or African swallow-tailed kites) roosting on the nearby Kousmar Island.  The scenic drive following the Saloum River west leads to an unassuming village with Kousmar looming in the distance.  About a 15-minute walk is required (vehicles can’t park too close to the water, lest they sink in the mudflats) to even get to the boat, but the boat ride is but a few minutes.  The island is thick with a combination of Sahelian and Sudanian bushes and trees.  Normally, about two hours before sunset, dozens of scissor-tailed kites and lesser kestrels begin to land on the trees, and the pace of roosting accelerates from there until dusk.  Unfortunately for us, the kites had begun to move east a bit earlier than usual this year, and the concentration wasn’t spectacular.

 

Scissor-tailed kite on Kousamar Island

 

Back on “mainland” near the village is Ansu’s go-to hotspot for Savile’s bustard.  This village grazing land is, remarkably, not overgrazed, and dotted with a mix of Combretum, Acacia, and Faidherbia trees.  After more than an hour of searching in the scorching mid-day heat, a couple of Savile’s bustards were seen on the ground as well as flying.  This area is also where you begin to see some of the “southern” species, and indeed a Bruce’s green pigeon was seen on a Faidherbiaalbida (ana tree), presumably feeding on the pods.

 

Savile's bustard in typical habitat near a village opposite Kousmar Island

 

It is worth mentioning that about two-hours north of Kaolack, there is a sandy shrubland, composed almost entirely of a shrub called Guiera senegalensis, that is host to the quail plover, an uncommon and enigmatic species with a patchy distribution in the Sahel and also Kenya.  We came up empty during a sweaty early afternoon search, however.

 

Adjana Hotel is a quiet and opulent offering just far enough away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Kaolack.  Built right on the Saloum River, the property sprawls and has the feel of a Caribbean beach resort.  The modern amenities include an inviting pool and an enormous restaurant with an equally enormous menu.  Expensive by Senegalese standards, Adjana was a welcomed guilty pleasure.

 

[Safaridude]

Fathala Wildlife Reserve

 

Not all Senegal birding itineraries include a visit to this private reserve.  Those that do normally only include a two to three-hour day visit.  This is a huge mistake in my opinion, as Fathala is 6,000 hectares of pristine, well-conserved and well-managed woodland full of the region’s representative birds.  The vegetation is decidedly Sudanian Biome’s, composed mostly of broad-leafed, deciduous/semi-deciduous trees, and several of the trees flower and fruit during the dry season, attracting the attendant birds.  While the property is fenced, the presence of a few tsetse flies (not too bad at all) and spotted hyenas gives it a true wilderness feel.  Fathala is known for its translocated western giant eland population, the various exotic mammal species, and the “lion walks” that take place in a separate part of the reserve, but the birding is completely under-advertised.  In addition to game drives, nature walks can be taken with a lodge guide.  Both are highly productive for birding and for an introduction to the flora of the Sudanian Biome.  Long-tailed glossy starling, purple starling (or purple glossy starling), bronze-tailed starling, Abyssinian roller, blue-bellied roller, rose-ringed parakeet, bearded barbet, double-spurred spurfowl (or double-spurred francolin), western plantain-eater, fine-spotted woodpecker, white helmetshrike, and pygmy sunbird were extremely well seen.  Senegal parrot and yellow-crowned gonolek were seen from a distance.  A violet turaco was heard but not seen.

 

Western plantain-eater

 

A pair of bearded barbets

 

The lodge is in the form of a traditional safari camp.  The mess/dining area overlooks a waterhole that attracts roan antelope, waterbuck, green monkey, and warthog, among others.  The tented rooms are well-appointed under mature trees, some of which were fruiting and attracting various birds to your doorsteps.  Interestingly, this Karang area of Senegal is Anglocentric.  Most of the staff at Fathala speak English, as most of the guests are English-speaking, many visiting from The Gambia.  Non-French breakfasts containing more than zero grams of fiber were a welcomed break.

 

Roan antelope

 

 

Western red colobus, an uncommon, range-restricted species (from Senegal to Ghana)

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Saloum Delta

 

Just a stone’s throw north from Fathala is the vast Saloum Delta.  One particular stretch of it near Toubakouta has now become a resort town of sorts, catering to “beach” holidays for mostly French tourists.  There is good patch-birding just south of Toubakouta on Sudanian Biome savanna/grazing land.  Yellow-billed shrike was added to our growing list.  But the raison d’être of a visit to the Saloum Delta is to seek out the elusive white-crested tiger heron, which stealthily lurks in the mangroves, only to half-reveal itself while foraging for fish during low tides.  Because there is nowadays so much power boat activity (mostly joyrides) on the main channel of the Delta, the tiger herons have retreated to the smaller, more tranquil channels, some of which wind their way seemingly forever.  So cryptic are these well-camouflaged herons that they could even evade Ansu’s trained eye from a short distance.  In the end, our three-hour search did not yield a sighting, but that’s “the nature of the beast” when looking for these ghosts of the mangroves.  Overall, there was surprisingly little other birdlife in the Delta.

 

Keur Saloum is a large property with many bungalow units bustling with French tourists looking for some sun and boating.  It is relatively upscale but “beachy” and need of some refurbishment.  But everything in the bungalows still works (especially the powerful A/C).  I had my best meal in Senegal there (agneau).

 

Green monkey viewed from the boat

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Parc National du Niokolo-Koba (PNNK)

 

Sun setting over the River Gambie

 

PNNK is one of only a handful of protected areas in the Sudanian Biome that is still intact as wilderness.  While its greatest advantage is its size at 9,130 km², only a small fraction is accessible to tourists.  Interestingly, most birding itineraries avoid staying inside PNNK, opting for a couple of lodges just outside the park.  But because of our interest in the wildlife inside the park in addition to the birds, we chose to stay at the new Nioko Lodge located on the western half of PNNK.

 

They do things differently at PNNK.  At the park entrance, as you register, you are assigned a park guide who must accompany you at all times inside the park.  As far as I can discern, there is no such thing as pre-booking a park guide to ensure that there is one available, or communicating with the lodge in advance to ensure that there is accommodation available for the park guide.  There just are a few park guides sitting idly in the shade – at all times.  Things just sort of work out – I think.

 

Unfortunately, the three lodging choices inside PNNK (Nioko Lodge, Simenti Hotel, and Campement du Lion) and the main game viewing road network are more or less restricted to the thick riverine area along the River Gambie on the western side of the park, exposing the tourists to only one aspect of the otherwise diverse landscape.  Tourists who spend a couple of days within this “cluster” may end up concluding that PNNK has but a few bushbucks.  Which is a darn shame because east of this cluster, the landscape is much more varied – from open grasslands to open woodlands to marshes to Mt. Assirik – and so is the wildlife.  Considerable effort is required to access those places, as we did, overcoming bureaucracy and frustration.

 

The birding was actually most productive on the grounds of the three lodges.  Nioko Lodge has a commanding view of the River Gambie, and from the mess area you can scope for Egyptian plovers and Senegal thick-knees.  Nioko also has a few walking trails along the river, and it has a fantastic hide where numerous birds, along with bushbucks, oribis, and red-flanked duikers, come to drink.  Simenti Hotel, with a defunct, rotted-out swimming pool and broken windows (the shards still hanging on) in some of the rooms, appears downright post-apocalyptic.  Somehow, it is still open to guests. Campement du Lion may even be grimmer if that were even possible.  Be that as it may, both places, with lots of tangled riverine vegetation, are more “firefinch-y and waxbill-y” than Nioko Lodge and worth a quick visit.  All three lodges can be birded in a single morning.  The game drive in the area around Mt. Assirik on the eastern side of PNNK proved to be less bird-y, but then the limited road network never got us close to any water sources.  At the end of the day, our species list at Nioko was similar to Fathala’s, except oriole warbler, bar-breasted firefinch, lavender waxbill, Abyssinian hornbill, violet turaco, four-banded sandgrouse, Adamawa turtle-dove, and black-billed wood-dove were added.  For the latter two species, I can’t imagine you can do better than at the Nioko Lodge hide.

 

It is worth mentioning that two lionesses were seen one morning on the road between the main gate and Nioko Lodge.  PNNK holds an estimated 30-40 lions that are part of a genetically distinctive clade (“West African lion”), of which there may be fewer than 400 left in West Africa.

 

Lionesses on the road

 

Nioko Lodge is one of two luxury safari lodges in all of West Africa (the other one being Zaina Lodge at Mole National Park in Ghana).  Handicapped by the arcane park rules, Nioko is unable to offer very early starts to the day or late returns to the lodge.  But in terms of amenities, Nioko delivers something comparable to what you would expect in East or Southern Africa.  At the time of our stay, the lodge was expertly managed by Ousmane.  Special kudos to him.

 

Bark of a young red kapok tree

 

Red-flanked duiker

 

Harnessed bushbuck

 

Guinea baboon, treated as a separate species

 

The view from Nioko Lodge

 

Bruce's green pigeon amongst starlings at the Nioko Lodge hide

 

Typical Sudanian woodland

 

Nioko Lodge grounds

 

On Mt. Assirik on the eastern side of the park

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Wassadou

 

The view from the boat

 

Campement de Wassadou is probably the one mandatory stop for all birders in Senegal.  Located on the banks of the River Gambie just outside of the northwestern corner of PNNK, Wassadou delivers up most of the Sudanian bird species found inside PNNK, but is free of the park bureaucracies, and offers a compelling boat ride on the river.

 

There are walking trails that wind through the riverine vegetation at first and then end up in more open woodland.  There is a particular concentration of Bombax costatum (red kapok tree) and Pterocarpus erinaceous (mukwa or kino), the former with knobbed bark, orange flowers, and fruit containing cotton-like material, and the latter with green, hairy ear-shaped fruit.  The latter is the most prized tree in West Africa for furniture-making and thus rare, so the fact that mature specimens are conserved at Wassadou is remarkable.  The woodland produced, among others, Senegal parrots (attracted to said trees), rose-ringed parakeets, long-tailed glossy starling, purple starling (or purple glossy starling), and piapiac.  The riverine habitat produced, among others, brown babbler, yellow-crowned gonolek, orange-cheeked waxbill, and black-rumped waxbill.

 

The boat ride on the Gambie is the most popular activity at Wassadou.  If I could find a fault at Wassadou, it would be that there is but one boat (and not a large one at that) to accommodate all the guests (there must easily be 20+ bungalow units).  We were relegated to only one boat ride during our two-day stay, but the two-hour ride was sufficient to take everything in.  Egyptian plovers were the stars of the show, foraging on the sand and gravel bars without a care in the world.  Small breeding colonies of red-throated bee-eaters, a violet turaco, a small group of blackcap babblers, black-rumped waxbills, and a blue-breasted kingfisher were also seen on the ride.

 

Egyptian plover

 

  

Red-throated bee-eater

 

Wassadou is in need of a facelift.  A little bit of maintenance money would go a long way.  On the other hand, the thatched, solid cement bungalows remain cool throughout the day, proving that the olde materials are best for insulation.  The service is friendly, and the food delicious.  Once again demonstrating the Senegalese commitment to a proper French breakfast… the chef awakens each morning a few hours before sunrise to bake the day’s baguettes.

 

Egyptian cobra

 

Pterocarpus ericaceous 

 

Green monkey

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Part Two A – Species that are found in northern Senegal (Sahel-centric Species)

 

 

Savile’s Bustard

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Patchily distributed from Senegal/Mauritania to Sudan.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome. 

 

Savile’s bustard is considered by some to be conspecific with buff-crested bustard of East Africa and red-crested bustard of southern Africa, but male Savile’s bustards do not perform the rocket-launch and parachuting display performed by the males of the other two species.  While reputed to occur in a wide area of northern and central Senegal, Savile’s bustard appears to have two hotspots in Senegal – the “Marigots” southeast of Djoudj and an area near Kaolack.  After an exhausting search in the heat, we were rewarded with a view of a couple of individuals near a village opposite Kousmar Island near Kaolack.  This species prefers some grass cover, and the village grazing land was, remarkably, not overgrazed.  Only one was close enough for a photo.  While on Kousmar Island, we saw an individual flying onto the Island.  Ansu speculated that that individual was roosting on the island.

 

Near a village opposite Kousmar Island near Kaolack

 

 

Arabian Bustard

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Patchily distributed from Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome.  

 

In Senegal, sightings of this rare and spectacular bustard are pretty much confined to Djoudj and its immediate vicinity. Apparently, there are only a handful (six?) left in Djoudj.  The population of Arabian bustards have dropped precipitously in recent years, not only from habitat loss, but also from being hunted (their meat is prized in certain sectors of the Arab world).  Still, the few individuals at Djoudj are normally conspicuous due to their great size.  Unfortunately for us, we birded on a windy day, which caused the bustards to be inactive.  One individual, however, was spotted with a scope at a great distance.  I did not get a photograph of the individual, but I include this photo I took of a few years ago of an Arabian bustard with a northern carmine bee-eater on its back (Halledeghe Plains, Ethiopia).

 

Halledeghe Plains, Ethiopia, 2019

 

 

African Collared-dove

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Mauritania to northern Somalia.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome and the southern part of the Sahara Biome.  Also occurs on the Arabian Peninsula.  

 

Reputed to occur in enormous flocks in places like Waza, Cameroon, African collared-dove was seen only on a couple of occasions in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  I was surprised at the scarcity of this species.  The African collared-dove looks similar to vinaceous dove (sympatric) but is lighter-colored and has wine-red eyes (not so telling in the photo, as the bird is in the shade).

 

At a woodland near Richard Toll

 

 

Little Grey Woodpecker

 

A Sahelian endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Mauritania to Sudan but with a large gap in western Mali. 

 

Little grey woodpecker is uncommon and requires local knowledge to track down.  It occurs in and around Djoudj, but most of the sightings in Senegal are in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  Luckily, Ansu knew of a nesting spot in the RichardToll /Podor area in a mature open woodland near a village, where a male (with a reddish-orange cap) and later a female were seen. 

 

At a woodland near Richard Toll

 

 

Crested Lark

 

Crested lark is a species widely distributed across Africa, Europe and Asia.  The purported subspecies Galerida cristata senegallensis is a Sahelian near-endemic and occurs from Senegal/Mauritania to Niger/northern Ghana.  

 

Crested lark is decidedly more common around Djoudj, due to the sparsely vegetated plains it prefers, than it is around Richard Toll/Podor.  For a lark, it has lots of charisma, prancing around with an erect crest on its crown, looking very much like a character in a Pixar movie.

 

At Djoudj

 

 

Black Scrub-robin

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea/Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome.  Also occurs on the Arabian Peninsula. 

 

Black scrub-robin was seen on about eight occasions in the Richard Toll/Podor area, and once in Kaolack.  All sightings were of solitary individuals.  Most bird books describe this species as “not shy”.  I would challenge that notion.  Their natural alertness, in addition to the classic scrub-robin restlessness, made it extremely difficult to photograph them.  In any case, black scrub-robin, with the herky-jerky locomotion and the cocking and uncocking of the tail, is a charismatic species of the Sahel.

 

Near Podor

 

 

River Prinia

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Extremely patchily distributed in four small locales in the Sahel, plus an isolated population in extreme northwest Kenya.  

 

River prinias are a rarity because of the patchy distribution, but they are common where they do occur.  They are doing well in Djoudj.  Whenever we were near their habitat (shrubs and tall grass near water), more often than not we heard their calls, and the flash of white underparts would eventually betray them.  Near the Djoudj boat station, the individuals were particularly confiding.

 

At Djoudj

 

 

Cricket Warbler (or Cricket Longtail)

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahara Biome.  

 

It seems finding cricket warblers, distinctive with their speckled foreheads, requires “patch-birding” with extreme local knowledge.  The hotspots Ansu led us to in the Richard Toll/Podor area easily produced cricket warblers.  We had four separate encounters (singles and pairs) without too much effort, and the birds were surprisingly approachable.  Every sighting was of a bird on or on the ground near a Balanites aegyptiaca (desert date).  

 

Near the Richard Toll Airport

 

 

Fulvous Chatterer (or Fulvous babbler)

 

A Sahelian and Saharan endemic.  Patchily distributed from Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  Also scattered in North Africa.

 

Fulvous chatterer is an uncommon species in northern Senegal.  We were lucky to see a couple of them in an open field with a smattering of immature Acacia and Balanites trees in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  Normally, these birds keep to the lower branches of trees, but a couple of individuals perched up high.

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

 

Sennar Penduline-tit

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome.  

 

Sennar penduline-tit is found only in the extreme north of Senegal.  We were lucky to encounter a single individual of this uncommon species, as Ansu led us to its hotspot near Richard Toll.  We heard (and may have seen) a couple of other individuals.

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

 

Chestnut-bellied Starling

 

A Sahelian near-endemic.  Ranges from northern Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Sudanian Biome.

 

The flash of chestnut-colored belly underneath the bronze-green upperparts makes this starling unmistakable.  Small flocks of chestnut-bellied starlings were conspicuous even from the road, from Thies and onward north.   Our best sightings were in the Richard Toll/Podor area in various light woodland and open scrub (and also near villages).  They were quite approachable.

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

 

Sudan Golden Sparrow

 

A Sahelian endemic.  Ranges from northern Senegal/Mauritania to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  

 

Sudan Golden Sparrows were seen several times in small flocks in light woodland and open scrub in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  The bright golden males were conspicuous.  The male’s bill turns black during the breeding season, but all the males we saw had light-colored bills.  They are reputed to be quite nomadic within their range as they follow ripening seeds. 

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Part Two B – Species that are either ubiquitous or found mostly in Southern Senegal (Sudanian-centric Species)

 

 

Scissor-tailed Kite (or African Swallow-tailed Kite)

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Somalia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

Scissor-tailed kites are seen mainly in an area centered around Kaolack and PNNK in Senegal.  The best site is obviously the roosting site at Kousmar Island near Kaolack.  As said, some of the roosting population had already begun to move east, so the numbers at Kousmar were underwhelming.

 

On Kousmar Island near Kaolack

 

 

Stone Partridge

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Ethiopia/western Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

Most of the sightings are from south of Thies.  Stone partridges’ excitable yet buttery calls were heard often at Fathala, PNNK, and Wassadou, but they were difficult to photograph due to their preference for thickets.

 

At Fathala

 

Double-spurred Spurfowl (or Double-spurred Francolin)

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Southwestern Chad, where it is replaced by Clapperton’s spurfowl (or Clapperton’s francolin) to the east.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congolian Biome.  A separate population in Morroco.

 

In Senegal, this species is widespread but more common in the south.  We had a glimpse of a few at Djoudj, but the best views were at Fathala and PNNK, especially at Nioko Lodge’s hide where several individuals came to drink in the evening.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Senegal Thick-knee

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congolian Biome.  Also occurs along the Nile River in Egypt.

 

Senegal thick-knee is found all over Senegal, but we did not encounter big numbers except one  group at Bandia Reserve’s pond.  I passed on several marginal photographic opportunities and ended up only with this terrible photo from Djoudj.

 

At Djoudj

 

 

Egyptian Plover

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the Guineo-Congolian Biome and the Somali Maasai Biome.

 

In the north, sightings of this elegant bird occur sparingly along the Senegal River.  The vast majority of the sightings occur at PNNK and Wassadou.  Egyptian plovers are common along the sandbars and gravel beds along the River Gambie in and around PNNK.  From Nioko Lodge’s mess area, there are several individuals in constant but distant view.  The boat ride at Wassadou practically guarantees sightings of several individuals.  Egyptian plovers are not shy and will allow a close approach.

 

From the boat at Wassadou

 

 

Four-banded Sandgrouse

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

The vast majority of the sightings occur south of Kaolack.  They are not commonly seen in Senegal, and the one good sighting was of a pair and a single that came to drink at dusk at Nioko Lodge’s hide at PNNK.

 

At the NIoko Lodge hide, PNNK (male on the left)

 

 

Bruce’s Green Pigeon

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Somalia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the Lake Victoria Basin Biome, and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

Bruce’s green pigeons are rarely seen in the north of the country, probably due to the lack of fig trees there (fig fruits are their primary source of food).  We had good views of this uniquely colored pigeon at Kaolack (perched on an ana tree) and at PNNK at Nioko Lodge’s hide.

 

Near Kaolack

 

 

Adamawa Turtle-dove

 

A Sudanian endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to southwestern Chad.  Distributed in a few concentrated clumps throughout its range.

 

This distinctive turtle-dove with blue-grey head, throat, and chest, and otherwise scaly-looking brown upperparts is only found in the southeast of the country.  A few individuals offered close-up views at Nioko Lodge’s hide at PNNK as they came to drink early morning.  That hide may well be the best place to see this species.

 

At the Nioko Lodge hide, PNNK, amongst vinaceous doves

 

 

Vinaceous Dove

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congolian Biome.  

 

These doves are widespread and common in Senegal, found in fairly thick woodland to grassland to cultivations.  In certain parts of the south, they are abundant.  Their abundance was evident at PNNK at Nioko Lodge’s hide, where hundreds came to drink.  Vinaceous dove is right up there with long-tailed glossy starling as the characteristic bird of Senegal.

 

At the Nioko Lodge hide, PNNK

 

 

Black-billed Wood-dove

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/western Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

Inhabitants of woodlands and their edges, black-billed wood-doves with the stunning dark blue spots on the wings are widespread but more prevalent in the south.  We had glimpses at Djoudj and Fathala, but the best sightings were at PNNK at Nioko Lodge hide, where several individuals came to drink one morning.

 

At the Nioko Lodge hide, PNNK

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Senegal Parrot

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to southwestern Chad.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

Senegal parrots are rare in the north of the country.  All of our many sightings were from Sindia on south.  Frustratingly, most of the sightings were of singles and pairs flying from tree to tree.  We finally managed a marginal sighting of a stationary individual at Wassadou.  The Senegal parrots appeared to be particulary attracted to the fruits of fig trees, Parkia biglobosa (African locust bean), and Pterocarpus erinaceous (mukwa or kino).

 

At Wassadou 

 

 

Rose-ringed Parakeet

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congolian Biome.  There is a separate population in Asia.

 

Found all over Senegal and seen (singles and pairs) at virtually all the locations we visited, this species initially frustrated the photographer by seemingly always flying from tree to tree.  We finally got good views at Fathala and Wassadou.  A male (distinguished by the red and black neck ring) feeding on flowers at Fathala allowed an extremely close approach.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Violet Turaco

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to C.A.R.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

This spectacular turaco occurs only in the south.  One or two individuals were heard often at Fathala near a fruiting fig tree but never seen.  An individual was seen at a gallery forest near Mt. Assrik in PNNK, and another was seen during the boat ride at Wassadou.  Violet turacos are more often than not located by their boisterous calls.  They are difficult to photograph, however, because of they tend to remain deep inside the shade of the tree canopy.  As Rod pointed out though, their tendency is to bounce around from branch to branch while feeding, slowly going up the canopy.  If you can anticipate such movements, a decent photograph can be had.

 

At PNNK, near Mt. Assirik

 

 

Western Plantain-eater

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western C.A.R., where it is replaced by eastern plantain-eater to the east.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

We expected to encounter this widespread, common, and boisterous species frequently, but that wasn’t the case.  In the north, we saw one individual at the hotel garden in Richard Toll, and the rest of the very few sightings were at Fathala (a close-up view of a relaxed individual feeding on fig fruit), PNNK, and Wassadou.  Ansu said western plaintain-eaters are more common in The Gambia.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Long-tailed Nightjar

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western Ethiopia/northwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and significantly into the Guineo-Congolian Biome.  Some populations breed in the northern part of the range and moves south when not breeding.

 

Long-tailed nightjars are widespread but uncommon in a variety of habitats in Senegal.  Our one sighting of a pair was at Podor, where most sightings in Senegal occur.  We had actually been looking specifically for golden nightjar in that riverine floodplain area.

 

At Podor

 

 

Blue-breasted Kingfisher

 

Mainly Guineo-Congolian.  Encroaches onto the Sudanian Biome and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

A few blue-breasted kingfishers occur on the western coast of Senegal, but the vast majority of the sightings occur along the River Gambie.  This species is similar to woodland kingfisher but flashes a richer azure-blue.  We had a single but brilliant encounter during the boat ride at Wassadou.  The individual allowed a close approach.

 

From the boat at Wassadou

 

 

Red-throated Bee-eater

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to western Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome.

 

In Senegal, a few red-throated bee-eaters enter the Senegal River area along the border with Mauritania, but the vast majority of the sightings occur in the southeast of the country.  Red-throated bee-eaters establish breeding colonies on the bank walls of the River Gambie.  Practically all of our sightings were from the boat ride at Wassadou where we were able to observe a small breeding colony and several individuals away from the colony.

 

From the boat at Wassadou

 

 

Little Green Bee-eater (or African Green Bee-eater)

 

Formerly considered conspecific with Asian and Arabian green bee-eaters.  A Sahel and Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/ western Ethiopia.  A separate population along the Nile River in Egypt.

 

In Senegal, little green bee-eaters are widespread but uncommon.  They are seen mostly at Richard Toll/Podor.  We had a couple of sightings, but I passed on the photographic opportunities because the birds were too far away.  I include a close-up photo from Zakouma, Chad.

 

From Zakouma, Chad, 2019

 

 

Blue-bellied Roller

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to South Sudan.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

This unique and elegantly colored roller, often associated with Borassus palm, is scarce throughout its range.  In Senegal, blue-bellied rollers are recorded south of Kaolack, though a few have been recorded north of there on the coast.  We only had one encounter at Fathala, and we may have seen one in flight at Wassadou.  When I spent six nights at Pendjari National Park in Benin in 2015, I only had one encounter even though Pendjari is the perfect habitat.  According to Ansu, this is another species that is more common in The Gambia.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Abyssinian Roller

 

Mainly Sahelian and Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Ethiopia/northwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

Abyssinian rollers are found everywhere in Senegal, but there are some seasonal movements, as they tend to move north into the Sahel during the rains.  We had particularly good views at Ranch de Bandia, between Richard Toll and Podor, and Fathala.  They weren’t numerous but always conspicuously perched on thorn trees.

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

 

Western Red-billed Hornbill

 

A Sahelian and Sudanian endemic.  Restricted to Senegal, Gambia, southern Mauritania, western Mali, northern Guinea, and northern Guinea Bissau. 

 

Some consider western red-billed hornbill as simply a subspecies of red-billed hornbill.  Western red-billed hornbill is morphologically distinctive with black orbital ring and skin around the eyes.  Western red-billed hornbills were ubiquitous and numerous in light woodland and very approachable.  

 

At Baobab Soleil

 

 

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Ethiopia/northwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the Lake Victoria Basin Biome, and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

This uncommon species occurs mostly south of Kaolack.  We saw them twice in PNNK, but the photo opportunities weren't great.  I include this photo of a male from Murchison Falls National Park in Uganda.

 

From Murchison Falls, Uganda, 2013

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

Vieillot’s Barbet

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/northern Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congolian Biome.  

 

For some reason, Vieillot’s barbet is uncommon in the south (for example in PNNK, where there appears to be ample suitable woodland habitat); most sightings in the Senegal occur in the north.  That was our experience, as all of our several encounters with the species (singles and pairs) was in the Richard Toll/Podor area.  These stunners were surprisingly approachable.

 

Between Richard Toll and Podor

 

 

Bearded Barbet

 

A Sudanian endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to C.A.R.

 

The majority of bearded barbet sightings occur from Sindia on south.  We encountered them at Fathala and Wassadou.  At Fathala, the bearded barbets, true to their reputation, faithfully hung around in the vicinity of fruiting fig trees.  The best way to find a bearded barbet is to find a fruiting fig tree and wait.

 

At Fathala, just outside my room

 

 

Fine-spotted Woodpecker

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to South Sudan.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, and the northern part of the Guineo-Congollian Biome.

 

There are scattered records of this species along the Senegalese coastline, but the majority of the sightings occur south of Kaolack.  Heard and seen from afar on a few occasions in the south, one particular individual (male, with the entire crown of the head red) gave us a good view at Fathala.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Oriole Warbler

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to C.A.R.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

Oriole warbler occurs from the Saloum Delta on south.  We had sightings at PNNK and heard them at Wassadou.  Although these distinctive-looking warblers prefer thick vegetation near water, they perch and betray themselves when calling.  The sighting at PNNK was on the grounds of the Simenti Hotel of a male singing his heart out.  For me, the best bird call of the trip.

 

On the grounds of Simenti Hotel, PNNK

 

 

Senegal Eremomela

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western C.A.R.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome.

 

Senegal eremomelas are fairly evenly distributed in Senegal.  The species is reputed to prefer slightly thicker savanna and woodland compared to the sympatric and Afrotropical yellow-billed eremomela, and we found that to be the case.  We were exceptionally lucky with this bird, having had surprisingly close-up looks of singles and pairs foraging high up on trees at Ranch de Bandia, the Saloum Delta, and PNNK.

 

Near the Saloum Delta

 

 

Brown Babbler

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to western Ethiopia/Uganda/western Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the Lake Victoria Basin Biome, and the Somali-Maasai Biome.

 

Brown babblers are widely distributed in Senegal where there is rank herbage near water, but they are more prevalent in the south.  They tend to gather in groups and make an absolute racket for a few minutes and then move on.  A small flock was seen at Ranch de Bandia, and there were a few sightings at Fathala, PNNK, and Wassadou.  They were heard but not seen on a few other occasions.

 

At Wassadou

 

 

Blackcap Babbler

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to C.A.R.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

There are a few records of this species from the coastal areas north of Dakar, but the vast majority of the sightings occur south of Kaolack.  The blackcap babbler’s sharp, crescendoing call was heard a few times (and the birds possibly seen) at PNNK, but the only adequate sighting was from a boat ride at Wassadou.  These babblers’ tendency to sit deep in the canopy made them difficult to spot or photograph.  Blackcap babblers are not uncommon in Senegal, and we were probably just unlucky.

 

From the boat at Wassadou

 

 

White-shouldered Black-tit

 

Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western Ethiopia/southwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome, and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

White-shouldered black-tit only occurs south of Kaolack.  This uncommon species was seen from afar once (a single) at PNNK.  Here is a horrendous photo of it.

 

On the grounds of Nioko Lodge, PNNK

 

 

Pygmy Sunbird

 

A Sahelian and Sudanian endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western Ethiopia.  Found mostly in the Sahel during the rains.  Moves to the south of its range during the dry season (October and April).

 

Probably because of the seasonal movements undertaken, this widespread species was seen mostly in the south (pygmy sunbirds migrate from the Sahel to the wetter southern savannas to breed during the dry season).  The best views were at Fathala and the Saloum Delta.  Located mostly by their soft trilling calls, the boisterous males were in their unique metallic green and yellow breeding plumage.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Yellow-billed Shrike

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to southwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

Yellow-billed shrikes are sparse in the north of the country.  Most sightings are in the south.  We were surprised to only have had sightings of a couple of individuals in a bushy patch near the Saloum Delta.  

 

Near the Saloum Delta

 

 

Yellow-crowned Gonolek

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Cameroon/Chad, where it is replaced by black-headed gonolek to the east.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the northern part of Guineo-Congo Biome.  

 

Though not numerous, there wasn’t a corner of Senegal where this bird’s beautifully liquid call wasn’t heard.  Various bird books and trip reports describe this species as “more often heard than seen”, to which I say if you hear it, you can definitely see it if you are patient and persistent.  Though a skulker in thick bush, yellow-crowned gonolek is not a shy bird.  I found that, given time, this skulker will eventually show itself.  Great sightings were had at Ranch de Bandia, Djoudj, the Saloum Delta, and PNNK.

 

At Ranch de Bandia

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

White Helmetshrike

 

White helmetshrike is an Afrotropical species occurring nearly everywhere in Africa but for the rainforests and deserts.  I include it in this discussion, because the subspecies Prionops plumatus plumatus, which occurs from Senegal to Cameroon, is distinctive with an elongated white crest arising from the crown.

 

In Senegal, this subspecies is found south of Kaolack.  We had a distant view of a pair at Fathala.

 

At Fathala

 

 

Piapiac

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to western Ethiopia/Uganda/southwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

Piapiac is widely distributed in Senegal, but the species proved to be elusive.  Considering the fact that piapiacs like to be on the backs of cattle (from which they hunt for insects) and the fact that there are lots of cattle in Senegal, the dearth of sightings was a surprise.  We finally got a good view of them at Wassadou, juveniles looking more elegant with their pink bills.  The photos I took are terrible.  I include this one from Zakouma, Chad.

 

From Zakouma, Chad, 2017

 

 

Purple Starling (or Purple Glossy Starling)

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to southwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

The majority of purple starling sightings occur from Sindia on south.  We had sightings at Kaolack, Fathala, the Saloum Delta, PNNK, and Wassadou.  At Fathala, several were attracted to fig tree fruit.  At Nioko Lodge’s hide, purple starlings, their large bills being diagnostic, were often seen in mixed flocks with bronze-tailed starlings, greater blue-eared starlings, and lesser blue-eared starlings.

 

At Fathala, just outside my room

 

 

Bronze-tailed Starling

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to extreme western Kenya.  Encroaches onto the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

The majority of bronze-tailed starling sightings occur south of Kaolack.  We had several sightings at Fathala, PNNK, and Wassadou.  The diagnostic bronze highlights on the purple tail are not always obvious.  The reddish orange eyes, also diagnostic, are easier markers.  Bronze-tailed starlings always seemed to be outnumbered by other starlings.

 

Bronze-tailed starling with purple starling in the background, at the Nioko Lodge hide, PNNK

 

 

Long-tailed Glossy Starling

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to Sudan/South Sudan.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome.

 

Long-tailed glossy starling is probably the most characteristic bird of Senegal.  It is found just about anywhere in just about any type of habitat including villages, towns, and hotel gardens, but the density is greater in the southern part of the country.  Its sharp call is a characteristic sound of the Senegalese bush.  I could not resist photographing these starlings at every opportunity, because they, like many other glossy starlings, take on different colors, depending on the light situation (in this case anywhere from light blue to purple).  They were particularly common and confiding at Fathala, Wassadou, and Baobab Soleil.

 

At PNNK

 

 

Bush Petronia (or Sahel Bush Sparrow)

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/western Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome.

 

Bush petronias are widely distributed in Senegal but uncommon.  Reputed to be associated with dry savanna and also having the word “Sahel” it its alternative name, the bush petronia is actually more of a Sudanian bird and more prevalent in the wetter southern Senegal.  We had marginal views of the species at Fathala and much better views at PNNK at Nioko Lodge’s hide, where a small group came to drink.

 

At the Nioko Lodge hide, PNNK

 

 

Orange-cheeked Waxbill

 

Mainly Guineo-Congolian.  Encroaches onto the Sudanian Biome.

 

This waxbill, more associated more with woodlands, forest clearings, and forest edges of the Guinea-Congo, is found in southern Senegal.  We encountered small groups foraging on the ground in association with other waxbills and firefinches at PNNK and Wassadou.

 

On the grounds of Campement du Lion, PNNK

 

 

Black-rumped Waxbill

 

Mainly Sudanian.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/western Ethiopia/southwestern Kenya.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome, the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome, and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

This red-masked, Zorro-like waxbill is widespread in Senegal but much more prevalent in the south.  We had three good sightings:  a couple of individuals mingling with orange-cheeked waxbills on the ground at PNNK; several in a riverine woodland at Wassadou; and several in a tangled bush on an island on the River Gambie (viewed from the boat ride at Wassadou).

 

From the boat at Wassadou

 

 

Lavender Waxbill

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to C.A.R.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome.

 

In Senegal, there are records of lavender waxbills from Dakar on south on the coast, but the vast majority of the sightings are from south of Kaolack.  Lavender waxbills are uncommon.  As Rod quipped, the key is to find “waxbill-y, firefinch-y” places (tangled vegetation near water), where various waxbill and firefinch species can be seen mingling together.  We did not see lavender waxbills at Fathala, where there is supposed to be a good population, but we had an excellent view at PNNK (on the grounds of Campement du Lion) in the riverine tangled bush area of an individual feeding on flowers. 

 

On the grounds of Campement du Lion, PNNK 

 

 

Bar-breasted Firefinch

 

A Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia to western Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the northern part of the Guineo-Congolian Biome and the Lake Victoria Basin Biome.

 

Bar-breasted firefinch occurs south of Kaolack.  We had a couple of sightings at Campement du Lion in PNNK and at Wassadou.  Both times the bar-breasted firefinches were in mixed company with red-billed firefinches (the former distinguished by the brown upperparts).

 

On the grounds of Campement du Lion, PNNK

 

 

Sahel Paradise-whydah

 

A Sahelian and Sudanian endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Eritrea/western Ethiopia.

 

Although it has been recorded all over Senegal, this is an uncommon species.  On top of that, we know that finding a male in breeding plumage was going to require extra luck, considering mid-February is the tail end (no pun intended) of the breeding season.  At a roadside hotspot between Kaolack and PNNK that was near what looked like a quarry, a non-breeding male was encountered.  It is possible that females and non-breeding males, with such drab colors, had been overlooked during the trip.

 

Between Kaolack and PNNK

 

 

White-rumped Seedeater

 

A Sahel and Sudanian near-endemic.  Ranges from Senegal/Gambia/Mauritania to Ethiopia.  Encroaches onto the southern part of the Sahel Biome.

 

This species appears to be absent in the southeast of the country (e.g., PNNK) but occurs everywhere else.  We only had one good view at Ranch de Bandia, white-rumped seedeater is easy to overlook due to its dull colors.

 

At Ranch de Bandia

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

The following target species were missed.  Most but not all of them are representative of the Sahel or the Sudanian Biome.

 

Beaudouin’s Snake-eagle – I include this photo from Zakouma, Chad, 2019

 

 

Black Crowned Crane – I include this photo from Zakouma, Chad, 2019

 

 

White-crested Tiger Heron

White-throated Francolin

Quail Plover

Golden Nighjar

Standard-winged Nightjar

Shining blue Kingfisher

Sun Lark

Snowy-crowned Robin-chat

White-fronted Black-chat

Senegal Batis

Yellow Penduline-tit

Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-weaver

Zebra Waxbill

Red-winged Pytillia

Black-bellied Firefinch

Black-faced Firefinch

Exclamatory Paradise-whydah

Brown-rumped Bunting

Gosling’s Bunting

 

  

The following target species were either seen but not photographed or seen by Rod/Ansu but not by me.

 

Northern Carmine Bee-eater – distant views at Podor and PNNK

Black Scimitarbill – seen by Rod/Ansu near Richard Toll at the little grey woodpecker site

Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike – seen by Rod/Ansu at Simenti Hotel in PNNK

White-crowned Robin-chat – seen at Wassadou

African Blue Flycatcher – seen at a gallery forest near Mt. Assirik in PNNK

White-billed buffalo-weaver – widespread and fairly common according to Rod, but somehow I missed it

 

 

So, what a gem Senegal turned out to be.  This safe and peaceful nation is compelling in several ways:  it is but a short flight from Europe or the U.S. into possibly the most pleasant airport in Africa (Blaise Diagne International); the infrastructure “works”; the people are friendly; there is a serious commitment to gastronomy (I suspect one would have to actually try in order to get bad food in Senegal); there are vast distances to be covered during a comprehensive trip, but the roads are some of the best I have seen in Africa; some of the accommodations are basic and dated, but there are always alternatives; and the language barrier for anglophones can be overcome, as there are a few English-speaking guides in Senegal and many more from The Gambia.  And of course, most importantly, for the combination of Sahelian and Sudanian bird species… Sénégal c'est le mieux.

Edited April 3, 2023 by Safaridude

[TonyQ]

An excellent comprehensive overview of birding in Senegal, thank you.

 

[AKR1]

At long last, an @Safaridudetrip report. We have missed your erudite comments and magnificent trip reports on this forum. Welcome back! 
 

Although I am not a birder per se, this was a fascinating introduction to a region most of us have little familiarity with. Thanks for taking the time to post this comprehensive report. 

[inyathi]

@SafaridudeVery interesting, thanks for posting.

 

I think you've shown, why Senegal should be on every African birder's bucket list, all the more so, as sadly many parts of West Africa, are either already no longer safe to visit or in danger of becoming so, I've not yet been to Senegal, but it really does offer some great bird species. I am really quite envious of that Black Scrub-robin, a species I'd really hoped to see in OROA on my visit to Chad last year, but I never saw one, the Birdlife International distribution map indicates that Savile's Bustard should occur both in OROA and Zakouma, but I think possibly Feb was the wrong time of year to see it in OROA, I think I might have been told that, by someone there, I don't know if that is also the case in Zakouma, I believe I've only ever seen Black-bellied there, Zakouma doesn't seem like a great place to see bustards, although there are 3 on the list as the Arabian should be there. I had great views of Arabian and Nubian in OROA, the latter species isn't found in Senegal, so it is best seen in Chad, but otherwise it looks like some of the other species, I saw, can be seen very easily in Senegal. It looks like you had good views of Scissor-tailed Kites, I had great views of them in flight in OROA but could not get decent photos and never saw them perched like that. If you're not after the real rainforest species, Senegal is a good alternative to Ghana and I am quite fearful that Ghana, at least the far north, could become unsafe in the near future, I think anyone needing to visit West Africa to increase their African list would be wise consider Senegal. Thankfully, I've not seen any reason to believe that the region's troubles will spread to Senegal. 

[wilddog]

What a wonderful report on 'a road less travelled'. So much information enhanced by glorious photographs.

 

Thank you so so much for sharing thisi wealth of information with us, @Safaridude.and to echo others..... good to see you back posting here.

[Safaridude]

@TonyQ, @AKR1, @inyathi, @wilddog

 

Thank you all.  @inyathi, yes the black scrub-robin is a cool bird.  I still don't know how it got its reputation as a "not shy" bird... it is very shy!  I get the feeling that Savile's bustard's habitat is constantly shrinking, even in Senegal.

[Zim Girl]

Really very interesting trip report @Safaridude, and great to see you back!

Also, nice to see Rod out and about, great guy!

[Zubbie15]

Thanks for sharing this informative and interesting report @Safaridude. Similar to @AKR1 I'm not a dedicated birder by any means, but really appreciate learning more about the area, and definitely some of those birds are nice enough to search out! 

[Safaridude]

@Zim Girl, @Zubbie15

Thank you.

 

@Zim Girl

Yes, Rod is a great guy, and boy, does he know his birds!!!

[Kitsafari]

Just caught up. Who knew that @Safaridude would morph into Birderdude?

but that natural evolution into birdlife has benefitted me with your deep dive into a less travelled destination of Senegal. 

As always, thank you for a very informative, interesting, detailed report with stunning images. I imagine it would be easy to slip into Fathala reserve from the Gambia? but will there be a large overlap of species? 

[michael-ibk]

Hooray, the Dude is back! Great to read from you here on these pages, Ken. And how cool to get a fully blown birding report, especially about a country I´ve thought about quite some times in the last years. Excellent advice (and photos) - a pleasure to read. Thank you so much!