Birds and Temples of northern Thailand - March 2023

[xelas]

Botanical gardens are always a good place to do some easy birding. Close to Chiang Mai is Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, and even closer is the Bhubing Palace which supposedly has nice gardens also. We have started with the later, and have realised quickly that the storms the day (and night) before were even stronger in the outskirts of Chiang Mai. The road up the hill looked like a proper filed road, and it was a slippery driving, not to mention how our car looked like after it. Of course, we have reached the palace only to be informed that the gardens are closed for maintenance works. Thus we tried the second option, but having not much faith that the other gardens would be open we have stopped at the Huay Tueng Thao Reservoir, what must be a very popular place for local families, with hundreds of huts lining the shores. Birding here would be a bust if not for rice fields at one end of the reservoir. Birds and a few memories from African savannah :-)).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cinnamon Bittern

 

Plaintive Cuckoo

 

Red-wattled Lapwing

[xelas]

DOI INTHANON

 

Doi Inthanon is one of the most popular national parks in Thailand. It is famous for its waterfalls, few trails, remote villages, viewpoints, sunrise/sunset watching, birdwatching and the all year round cold weather on higher elevations. The main park entrance is about 70 km southwest from Chiang Mai city center. For dedicated birders, there are plenty of accommodations much closer to the park. Maybe the best known among the birder's groups is Touch Star Resort, yet I have opted for a much smaller place. It was difficult to find TongLuang Inthanon Homestay at first, yet once we dig it, we have been greeted by a fine looking property, a vibrant family/owners and the best coffee in Thailand. While he is more of an artist soul, I have no doubts that she will keep him firmly on their target which is keeping this property as a friendly and welcoming homestay for many years to come. We wish them all the best!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 8, 2023 by xelas

[xelas]

Also known as "The Roof of Thailand", Doi Inthanon National Park covers an area of 482 km² in Chiang Mai province north of Thailand. The park is part of the Himalayan mountain range with elevations ranging between 800 and 2,565 meters asl. The highest peak in the park is Doi Inthanon Mountain which is the highest mountain in Thailand. The park has high humidity and cold weather all year round. A guide was introduced to us through TuangLuang Homestay. Mr.Tee or Anusak Chinapatarapong is an enthusiastic local bird guide with very good English. His fees were 3000.00 Bath for the full day, with our vehicle. We have started early in the morning, and have explored several locations at different altitudes, starting from the top. It was a fine day, plenty of interesting birds and great views. Below are some photos from the start of our birding day; indeed it was quite cold at the top of the mountain, and light was scarce before the sunrise. For photographers, bring your largest sensor and fastest lens. Birds do come close but available light is an issue for sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

These are the most interesting birds of the day, from different locations.

 

 

Ang Ka Luang Nature Trail

 

Rufous-winged Fulvetta

 

Chestnut-tailed Minla

 

Green-tailed Sunbird

 

 

From the top of the mountain

 

Silver-eared Laughing-Thrush

 

 

Somewhere in between

 

Little Pied Flycatcher

 

Golden-throated Barbet

 

Yellow-cheeked Tit

 

 

Near Siriphum waterfall

 

Black-backed Forktail

 

Mountain Bulbul

 

 

And the bird Anusak knew exactly where to look for, although it took some time for the bird to show.

 

Collared Falconet

 

[PeterHG]

Looks like a very nice stay near Doi Inthanon. Good set of bird photos in spite of the lack of light with the Falconet as an absolute winner!

[TonyQ]

The Falconet is really beautiful. You coped well with the low light.

Food continues to look great!

[shazdwn]

Just catching up and really enjoying your report - I have been to Thailand several times but all before I was a birder and always to the south - might be time for a return trip

[xelas]

Our time in the far north has ended, and we needed to drive cca 900 kms to our next location, the famous Kaeng Krachan National Park. Way too many kilometers for only one day, so we took it slowly, and planned two overnights; one at Kampaeng Phet to admire some of the ancient ruins of old Thailand, and the other at Kanchanaburi, to visit a site known all over the world for the movie of the same name.

 

Kampaeng Phet has two archeological sites that should be visited; these are mostly ruins, and with spacious lawns and grown up trees, they are calm and nice to stroll through. While decision to stop at KP was based entirely on how many kilometers per day we wanted to seat in the car, it was nevertheless a good overnight stop, with a decent hotel and a relaxing morning walks through the ancient ruins. And some birding along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

White-crested Laughing-Thrush

 

Great Racket-tailed Drongo

 

Eurasian Hoopoe

 

 

Edited October 5, 2023 by xelas

[xelas]

The modern town of Kanchanaburi has a more recent, and also more gruesome history relict: the bridge over the river Kwai. I am sure you have all seen this war time movie. But if not for this one location, I would not stop here. Although the hotel was nice and modern, and there are many small restaurants and cafes within the walking distance from the bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crossing the river we have continued towards the KK through agricultural land with rice fields and temples. Both gave us a many opportunities to add to the bird score, even an Owl on the grounds of one of the temples!

 

 

Chinese Pond Heron

 

Javan Pond Heron

 

Siamese Pied Starling

 

 

 

 

 

Barn Owl

 

 

Our final stop before reaching the Baan Maka lodge, and one of many roadside cafes that provides for a much needed pit stop, rehydration and an occasional snack.

 

 

[xelas]

KAENG KRACHAN NATIONAL PARK

 

 

Kaeng Krachan NP is the must visit for anyone visiting Thailand for birding. And Baan Maka lodge is where many individuals and groups are staying. The lodge is not that big, so it has to be booked quite early. I have basically planned the entire itinerary around the availability at Baan Maka.  There are several cabins and rooms all within easy walking distance from the main area where the restaurant is. There is a trail that can be walked on your own, a few different habitats, even a hide. Birding within the property boundaries is very good ... but one has to be careful of its environments the whole time!

 

 

House with our room and porch

 

 

White-rumped Shama

 

Yellow-rumped Flycatcher

 

Restaurant

 

Cabin with a pool

 

Lineated Barbet

 

Large Hawk-Cuckoo

 

The swampy area

 

Yellow Bittern

 

Lurking under the leaves

 

 

Edited October 6, 2023 by xelas

[xelas]

Our first full day we have spent inside the park, guided by maestro Piak! What A Day it was!! And it has ended with a bang; on the road back we have encountered a huge King Cobra! Piak said it must have been at least 5 meters long, the largest he has ever seen. Our luck ended there, the snake get off the road way before anyone in the vehicle could grab a camera.

 

 

Photographers be prepared!

 

Not that lucky

 

Still we have seen her (or him)

 

So many colourful butterflies ... 

 

Half day stop for coffee

 

 

Two very happy birders birding from the balcony

 

Maestro and I

 

Ashy Bulbul

 

Blue-throated Barbet

 

Red-bearded Bee-eater

 

Crested Goshawk

 

Great Hornbill

 

Asian Barred Owlet

 

Banded kingfisher

 

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha

 

Orange-breasted Trogon

 

Black-and-red Broadbill

 

Banded Broadbill

 

Long-tailed Broadbill

 

 

 

[offshorebirder]

Far too many amazing birds to comment upon, but the Great Racket-tailed Drongo is super-amazing!

[xelas]

Our second full day at Baan Maka / Kaeng Krachan was spent entirely at the privately owned hide, outside of the park. These are basic hides, with several plastic chairs and a tin roof. I was so surprised by the fact that I was able to sit tight for over 8 hours! The quality of the birds is way better than the quality of the hide, and there were also several mammals coming for a drink. Important: you need to bring your own drinks and food (apart from water).

 

Birds

 

Puff-throated Barbet

 

Greater Neclaced Laughingthrush

 

Lesser Neklaced Laughinthrush

 

Racket-tailed Treepie

 

White-browed Scimitarbill

 

Kalij Pheasant

 

 

Bar-backed Partridge

 

Greater Yellownape

 

Stripe-throated Bulbul

 

Green-eared Barbet

 

Black-naped Monarch

 

Mammals

 

Western Striped Squirrel

 

 

Grey-bellied Squirrel

 

Northern Treeshrew

 

Lesser Mousedeer

 

 

[PeterHG]

Many colourful and amazing photos from both the Kaeng Krachan visit and the day at the hide. I can imagine you were surprised at your own ability to spend 8 hours in a hide ;)! But very worthwhile, both for birds and mammals. We will also be staying at the Baan Maka Lodge next year and apparently have even booked the same guide for a day in the park. Can't wait....

[TonyQ]

Kaeng Krachan looks amazing- and you did very well in the hide.

Beautiful photos, wonderful birds.

How far in advance did you book Baan Maka?

[michael-ibk]

Definitely a very cool place, you got great photos here, especially love the Broadbills. Still, something must have been in your tea or beer (or both), I cannot believe that you stayed in one place voluntarily for more than one hour, let alone eight!

[janzin]

What an amazing assortment of birds and wonderful photography. I love the Hornbill from below, what an unusual shot!

 

I never thought I could spend that long in a hide until we visited the hides in India, its somehow mesmerizing and you get in the "zone." As long as the birds kept coming... I never wanted to leave (although we never were in one for a full 8 hours.) Now I'm eager to do more hide photography! Thailand (and/or Sabah) is on my list...just sooooo far from here.

[Galana]

3 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

I cannot believe that you stayed in one place voluntarily for more than one hour, let alone eight!

I am still in shock at learning this. He is usually off chasing  Bulbuls in about 90 seconds.

Good to see he got one too.

[xelas]

Looks like you know me well ... but not well enough . But obviously also I don't know me well enough . As Janet mentioned, a constant flow of birds (and a few mammals) kept me in the hide. OTOH there was nowhere else to go anyway.

 

Tony, I have booked Baan Maka mid January for end of March. It was the first available slot. 

[xelas]

LAEM PAK BIA & PAK THALE

 

 

One more full day of birding for us. Returning to Bangkok we have drove by coastal area with its large areas of salt pans, mudflats and some mangroves. A prime location for shorebirds. Following the instructions found on the www.thaibirding.com it was easy to find the birding locations. Much of the birding was from the vehicle. 

 

 

Salt pans

 

 

 

Long-toed Sting

 

Red-necked Stint

 

Spotted Redshank

 

A few more temples

 

 

 

Painted Stork

 

Brahminy Kite

 

 

[pault]

Nice day at the hide - very nice. A greater yellownape is a wonderful surprise there. And lovely to see Piak and his trusty binos. I have to say he looks very satisfied with you - much more than he ever does with me. You got very nice shots of most of the broadbills - excellent.

 

The cafe/restaurant has been further improved. The coffee seller was quizzing me about the coffee when I was last there (before you) and obviously somebody made the excellent suggestion of offering a choice of canned milk (sweetened and not?). The banner is new too, as I think are the tables. Very swish! 

 

I need to go back there soon but Khao Yai by bicycle is next (not using the same roads you did though).

[pault]

Oh and the collared falconet views on Doi Inthanon…  I am very jealous of that, but not so much of the innards and blood soup. 

Edited October 8, 2023 by pault

[pault]

On 10/4/2023 at 9:20 PM, xelas said:

It was difficult to find TuangLuang Inthanon Homestay at first

Based on the sign I think it is Tong Luang - in case others want to find it or you are able to edit.. although spellings in English can be all over the place here.

[xelas]

Thank you; Paul, and Tuang is now corrected to Tong. That was indeed very sweet coffee, and the lady serving it was also a sweet one.

[xelas]

That is about our first visit to Thailand. We like it a lot; it is easy to navigate, very affordable and there are plenty to keep us entertained, beside the birds and the temples. Just don't go there in March!! December till February are the best months for the north. We will go back, to explore Bangkok and to find out how the south is, beaches et all.