A return to the Cape - November 2023

[Towlersonsafari]

sorry to hear about the fire @xelas- HP is a lovely place to wander around- we have seen tortoise and black Eagle there. i think butterfly no 2 could be the Garden Acraea (Acraea horta) female the firstmight be a faded common dotted border (Mylothris agathina agathina) but i have just spent more time than i should looking at this

https://www.sanbi.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/bioseries16butterfly.pdf

[xelas]

You are correct, @Towlersonsafari regarding the butterflies. The yellow one is Mylothris rubicostra according to Google Lens.

[xelas]

ROOISAND NATURE RESERVE

 

 

Rooisand is situated in the wetlands of the Botrivier lagoon, and is primary a birdwatching area, yet it is also known for its band of wild horses. The access to the entry/parking lot/boardwalk is via a dirt/sandy road off R44. The birding starts right away, and if lucky the wild horses will hang out in the water pools close to the parking lot and the boardwalk. Whoever is responsible for this boardwalk should start to repair it as part of it has collapsed. One can still use it, or jump of it and on again after about 50 meters, to reach the hide which overlooks part of the lagoon. Our bird count was 32 species yet more experienced (or luckier) birders can find twice as many. We have visited it on our way from Betty's Bay to Swellendam/Bontebok NP, and a couple of hours is enough for it.

 

The entry and the hide are connected with a wooden boardwalk; we did not took any photos of it, to show you the collapsed part.

 

 

 

Birding was good although the scenery of this location isway less atractive to the scenery of Harold Porter Botanical Garden.

 

Jackal Buzzard

 

Blacksmith Lapwing

 

Caspian Tern

 

Sandwich Tern

 

Kittlitz's Plover

 

Malachite Sunbird

 

 

This time we have seen the famous wild horses of Rooisand, and they do look very attractive. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Peter Connan]

Lovely photos at both locations!

One can't hold the drabness of the scenery of Rooisand against it if compared to HP. Not many places can compare!

[Kitsafari]

what a beautiful tortoise!

[michael-ibk]

Lovely photos, lovely scenery. And your accom. does look very comfortable. Love the Shepherd Dog, used to have one just like that.

[xelas]

BONTEBOK NATIONAL PARK

 

 

Bontebok NP - https://www.sanparks.org/parks/bontebok - is the smallest NP is South Africa. As the name suggested it was established to preserve the population of Bonteboks. It is positioned next door to a small town of Swellendam, and the river Breede flows through it. In Swellendam one can find many restaurants and markets. As we did not want to cook in the park, on arrival we have had a nice lunch at The Oil Mill Guesthouse, Restaurant and Factory Shop. 

 

 

 

The camping and the self catering cottages are located on the bank of the river, which allows for some nice views. The cottages are spacious and well equipped. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Simplistic beauty and peaceful charm" is how the Sanpark website describes this park. Indeed it is simplistic and peaceful, but a bit too much of both for me. In my opinion, one night is good enough for this park: one afternoon of driving around and one morning of walking along the river is what we did.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 27 by xelas

[xelas]

There were bonteboks, most of them close to the camp. But the plains did not offer much in the wildlife variety. A couple o zebras at great distance, a solitary Red Hartebeest, a curious Scrub Hare and a Four-striped Grass Mouse were all what we have seen. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birding was OK. We have scored around 30 species between the drive and the walk, which is the average birders reports from this location.

 

Juvenile Cape Robin-Chat

 

Cape Weaver

 

Cape Bulbul

 

Karoo Scrub Robin

 

Karoo Prinia

 

Cape Grassbird

 

Edited January 27 by xelas

[Kitsafari]

the accommodation looks simple but cosy and comfortable. Bonteboks are always a delight to see, but sorry to hear that the park was empty of many mammals. 

[xelas]

DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE

 

 

Our next destination was another one that we have visited in 2018. Leaving Bontebok NP around midday our first stop was in Swellendam, to fill up the gas tank and to have a quick snack. Well, Zvezda has opted for a less quick option.

 

 

 

 

There are only 45 kilometers between Swellendam and Malagas, of which 40 kms are on an unnamed gravel road. This road is wide and with only a sporadic vehicle passing by. 40 minutes says Google Maps, but what does Google Maps knows about driving habits of a dedicated birder/photographer?!

 

 

 

These are all huge farming lands, most of the grain was already harvested, and the scenery reminds me of Alentejo plains in Portugal. 

 

 

 

Almost every kilometer offered a new sight; a Blue Crane, a Steenbok, a Cape Grey Mongoose were all looking for the food or shelter within vast expanses of harvested fields.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But the main "obstacle" were birds. Perfectly positioned on the fences, sitting up the many poles  or flying above; the wide and empty road allows to stop the vehicle for as long as the photographer (and the bird) likes. 

 

Red-capped Lark

 

African Pipit

 

Large-billed Lark

 

White-throated Canary

 

Cape Crow

 

Black-winged Kite

 

Common Buzzard

 

 

We have arrived at Malagas Hotel at around 16:00 (4 PM)! A rather small establishment, that caters mostly for local guests. It is positioned next to the ferry, has spacious rooms and very good kitchen. We have had breakfast and dinner included in the rate. Obviously, for having De Hoop as a target location, one would prefer to stay within the reserve. We did so already, thus I wanted to try a different approach. To be honest, I was nervous what this hotel will look like, and will it be a good base for De Hoop. After 2 nights I can say that it turned out as a perfect option. We have had time for breakfast before driving to De Hoop, we have had very good dinner and the place itself was green and fresh, being on the bank of the Breede River.

 

 

Southern Red Bishop saluting us on arrival 

 

 

View from the balcony of our room over the river

 

[TonyQ]

Lovely photos on your slow journey. Your hotel looks very nicely situated 

[xelas]

@TonyQ, for the first-time visitor to De Hoop I recommend staying inside the reserve. As a return guest, and only for 1-day visit, this was a great choice. The birding along the road was as good if not better than the birding inside the reserve.

[xelas]

De Hoop Nature Reserve is one of the largest natural areas managed by CapeNature. It is a great destination for families, birders and whale watchers. It is very scenic area, mostly green, and with impressive white sand beaches. We were late for whales, and the sky was slightly overcast, thus the landscape photos taken are not as good as the ones from 2018. 

 

 

 

 

 

There is more diversity then in Bontebok NP, and birding is very good here, with 260 species reported.

 

Eland

 

Newborn

 

Leopard Tortoise

 

Ostrich

 

 

Within De Hoop we have observed 44 different bird species.

 

Helmeted Guineafowl

 

Spotted Thick-knee

 

Crowned Lapwing

 

Cape Bunting

 

Speckled Mousebird

 

[xelas]

The coastal area is a must-see location when in De Hoop. During whales migration there is no better, or at least more scenic place to have your observation point. We have been too late but just walking there and back offered us some splendid photo opportunities!

 

 

Southern Rock Agama

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then there is Bites Beach Cafe, a splendid eatery with a fabulous location. A perfect place for having a light carrot cake while photographing birds in flight!

 

 

Rock Kestrel

 

Kelp Gull

 

Caspian Tern

 

 

[xelas]

The one activity not to be missed while in De Hoop is the Guided Eco Boat Trip. It is about 2 hrs long, with excellent opportunity to get the photos of the water birds from a different perspective. The itinerary depends on the water level, and was different to the one we had in 2018, with different birds. The boat is a pontoon style thus very stable and allows to move from one side to another with ease.

 

 

 

There were two resident swallows accompanying us during this trip.

 

White-throated Swallow

 

 

 

We were able to approach the birds quite close.

 

African Sacred Ibis

 

 

African Darter

 

 

Common Sandpiper

 

Rare leucistic Water Thick-knee

 

 

The stars of this trip were two Kingfishers.

 

Pied Kingfisher

 

 

Malachite Kingfisher

 

 

We have entered the reserve around 10:00 and exited it around 17:00; those 7 hours were not enough to explore the whole area (that has roads) yet we have had enough time to explore the main areas. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Zim Girl]

Love that first picture of the Sacred Ibis showing the red under the wing.

[xelas]

The Breede River is the border between the Overberg District and the Garden Route district. By crossing it we have entered into the second week of our trip, and into the well known and advertised Garden Route district. However, as the general sightings are similar to what we have experienced in the last few days, I will add this post to the De Hoop section.

 

One major change is that the ferry over the river is not anymore man powered. The crossing is still free of charge though. I have had time to find a photo from our last visit, and staff on the ferry recognised those that have pulled the ferry across the river. Much easier job now for them.

 

 

 

 

The landscape on the other side of the river does not change much, and same is also the birding ... excellent!

 

 

Orange-throated Longclaw

 

Yellow Canary

 

Capped Wheatear

 

Three-banded Plover

 

 

Witsand is a popular beach destination, situated at the mouth of the Breede River. It is a popular water sport and fishing destination, and the cute houses with well maintained lawns shows its character. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Witsand to Wilderness are 200 kms, about 2 hours of relaxed driving. Next stop Wilderness, where we have met Martin, Rena and Pat.

 

Edited January 31 by xelas

[TonyQ]

Lovely photos @xelas. You were having beautiful weather by the look of these!

[xelas]

WILDERNESS

 

 

Wilderness is where our we have joined Martin and his group. The town is located at the mouth of the Touws River, has wide sandy beaches, a beautiful lagoon system and green forested backdrop ... in one word, an amazing scenery. Garden Route National Park - Wilderness section (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/garden-route) is at its doorsteps. With such a background, Wilderness is very popular destination for active visitors, hikers, and of course also for birders.

 

Martin booked us into Ebb & Flow Rest Camp, managed by Sanparks (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/garden-route/camps/wilderness-ebb-and-flow). As other Sanpark accommodations, also the raised wooden cottage are spacious, clean and comfortable. There is a large terrace facing the narrow water path which I have not took any photos of, but is a great place for sitting on during breakfast and/or dinner time, or for watching the birds.

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

The only full day here we started early, with a private boat trip up the Touws river. Three hours long, it took us up to where the hiking trail crosses the river, and back down to the ocean. The river itself enters into the deep canyon soon after the end of the Ebb & Flow campsite, which was not appreciated by the photographers in our group. However, the captain was very forthcoming, and willing to steer the boat into the right position for getting the best possible angle and light for some very interesting birds. The first photo is from the previous day, same boat but different crew. Next two photos are from the far end of our trip, where a self powered ferry helps the hikers to cross from one side of the river to another side. 

 

 

 

 

 

While not as attractive as the Trogon, the Lemon Dove is more difficult bird to find and to photograph. 

 

Lemon Dove

 

Narina Trogon

 

Little Grebe

 

Crowned Cormorant

 

Black-headed Heron

 

 

Members of our group disembarking: Martin, Rena, Pat and Zvezda. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

The birding inside the campsite is very rewarding despite having many campers around. With open lawns and many trees the diversity of the birds is good. Some of the birds we have seen:

 

Speckled Pigeon

 

African Hoopoe

 

African Dusky Flycatcher

 

Southern Boubou

 

Greater Double-collared Sunbird

 

Fiscal Flycatcher

 

Sombre Greenbul

 

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

 

and the prize bird of the area, one we have chased for quite some time, until our persistence paid off:

 

Knysna Turaco

 

And a Bushbuck roaming around

Edited February 4 by xelas

[xelas]

In between birding we have took some time to go to the beach. Not really a great swimming beach but folks looked like they have fun. 

 

 

 

Pat must have spotted something of interest in the water ... 

 

... he was only paying close attention if something goes wrong here

 

 

Long, wide and windy ... not exactly my preferred type of beach

 

 

 

 

 

One day, no matter how early one starts the day, is just not enough time to give this location a deserved attention. We could easily stay two if not three days in Wilderness.

[BRACQUENE]

Great TR and some impressive birds I would love to see ! 

[xelas]

4 minutes ago, BRACQUENE said:

some impressive birds I would love to see ! 

 

Visiting Western Cape is easy, and affordable, in comparison to other locations in South Africa.

[TonyQ]

Beautiful birds there @xelas. Superb Trogon and Turaco.