Bounding about the Bush – Another Doug Mac adventure

[AfricIan]

I’ve realised that unless I start this TR I never will as I’m already one trip behind (Panama last month) so my thinking is that if I make a start then you will collectively “encourage” me to get on with it!

 

I was “flying solo” for this trip in that Vicky wasn’t coming along but being as it was a Doug Macdonald small group safari I knew I wouldn’t be alone and not unexpectedly, Caroline, Caroline (which did cause a little confusion early on), Lynn, David & I all got on very well.  I’d booked, as usual, through Busanga Safaris (as had Lynn & David) and flying Emirates from Stansted via Dubai & Lusaka to Harare.

 

The plan was:
Malcolm Lodge, Harare 1 night
Masasanya Camp, 3 nights
Fly Camp, 1 night
Chilojo Cliff Bush Camp, 4 nights

 

Although Stansted is only 15min away from home, it’s a long 19hr drag to Harare as the plane sits on the ground in Lusaka for 1.5hrs in addition to the 2hrs connection wait in Dubai so not ideal. My original plan was to fly Qatar but they decided to bring forward the time of the return flight forward by 6hrs meaning I’d have to spend another night in Harare and kick my heels in Doha for 9hrs as Qatar & BA between them couldn’t (wouldn’t?) sort a sensible reschedule without charging me lots of £££ for the privilege ().

 

 Anyway, I made it Harare & after a very comfortable night & breakfast at Malcome Lodge our little band headed back to the airport for our Mack Air flight down to Gonarezhou.

 

Gonarezhou is the “Place of Elephants” and sure enough there were Elephants

 

Lion (sometimes doing things other than being flat-cats)

 

Pretty things

 

Spectacular views

 

Ugly things

 

And much, much more to come.

 

 

Edited February 25 by AfricIan
Correct links

[AfricIan]

Masasanya Camp 

After a very pleasant flight down from Harare we crossed over with @Seniortraveller & her returning group on the Chipinda Pools airstrip before heading off to Masasanya Camp which is a nice semi-permanent camp has 4 chalets overlooking the Masasanya dam, not far from the airstrip and within the fenced “rhino protection fence”.

 

My “umble abode for” 3 nights. 

 

 

 

 

The hot water system can be seen on top of the enviro toilet and even at 5am there was still plenty of hot water for a quick self-mix bucket shower before breakfast. The reed shutters gave a great view out over the dam and I never bothered shutting them.

My chalet mates were a family of Wire-tailed Swallows who kept me amused whenever I was in the chalet

 

 

 

Meals were around the communal table in the central “building” as was 24hr battery/phone charging.

 

There was always something to see in/over the dam

 

I'd never realised that Yellow-billed Storks were so "double jointed"

 

Anyone for a swim?

 

The Black-winged Stilt wasn't on todays menu.

 

 

Three-banded Plover

 

 

 

 

Next: Out & About from Masasanya

[Hads]

Nice start to your report thanks @AfricIan

[AfricIan]

Thanks for your comment @Hads & thanks to everyone who’s following along. Before we head out, I’m aware that there have recently been a couple of great Gonarezhou reports from @BRACQUENE& @michael-ibk/ @Atravelynnbut from what I remember of them we saw/did some different things so I hope this isn’t going to be too repetitive.
Also, a short further word on Masasanya camp which, along with the Chilojo Cliff Bush Camp, is leased by Doug on an exclusive basis for his “Bush Bound Safaris”. Thus, the accommodation & “housekeeping” were provided by local staff whilst Doug’s team of Matt & Melody did all the cooking and kept us well lubricated.  As @michael-ibktold you, when they were there they had an “Eat your way round Africa” theme with a different country featuring each day. I was pleased that this continued for my trip, starting (if I remember correctly) in Ethiopia & working anti-clockwise round the continent as it’s a great concept and brilliantly executed – nobody goes hungry on a Doug Mac safari!

3) Out & about from Masasanya 

 

The map here:  shows that Gonarezhou is a big park & we only scratched the surface of the North East corner and as I mentioned previously, Masasanya camp is within the fenced “rhino protection area” so we naturally focused our attention on finding Rhino. Over the next couple of days, we were up and out at or before sun-up, sometimes on foot, sometimes driving out but even when we left camp in the vehicle we were soon out of the vehicle & walking “to see what we could see” – indeed Doug was quickly christened the “Grand Old Duke of York” such was his propensity for “marching us up to the top of the hill & marching us down again” (). Despite Doug’s best efforts, of the ~30 rhino that are meant to be in the protection area, we saw not a trace but there was plenty of other things to keep us on our toes:

There were 5 of us in the vehicle so I thought I’d try out the “passenger” seat next to Doug for a lower down perspective to that which I’m used to and as the others were happy to settle themselves into the two rows behind Doug & I, that’s where we stayed the whole trip.  I’m not going to do a “day-by-day” account but rather just flag up some of the interesting sightings:

I know “the eyes have it” but how Doug spotted this little fella whilst driving along I’ll never know; it took ages before I saw what he was looking at!

Eastern Rock Elephant Shrew (Sengi)

 

Chapmans Zebra

Some were definitely "looking a bit chubby"

 

Male Kori Bustard displaying 

Pics

 

His lady friend didn't seem that impressed though 

 

We saw a number of bull elephants exhibiting "floppy trunk syndrome" 

This, over a period of time, badly affects their ability to eat and drink as the paralysis progresses and there were some that were looking very emaciated even at that stage of the season. Doug's thinking was that unless there were good rains very soon which might stop the elephants being forced to eat the dry toxic vegetation, their outlook was bleak.

 

There were also:

Kudu

 

Grysbok

 

Klipspringer

 

Buffalo

 

Black-backed Jackal

 

Including an interesting "lack of encounter" between Jackal & Kori Bustard

 

A 3 hyaena group which had to be:

The good,

 

The bad,

 

and The ugly,

 

Nyala

 

and, of course, Waterbuck

 

Lest anyone think I'm ignoring our feathered friends aficionados, just hold on a moment

Edited February 27 by AfricIan

[AfricIan]

Moving on to our avian friends:

 

Brown Snake Eagle

 

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

 

Martial Eagle

 

Pied Kingfisher

 

Hammerkop

 

Goliath Heron

 

African Skimmer. Unfortunately they were skimming further downstream but I caught (well sort of!) this one heading back to the nest.

 

Brown-headed Parrot

 

Of course there were Baobabs

 

and Doug showed me how to "vertical panorama" a tree

 

There were views

 

Sunsets

 

A One minute & 30sec sunrise

 

and elephants doing what elephants do

 

 

All in all, we had a very enjoyable and, bar the Rhino, productive few day at Masasanya however our last afternoon was very dull & by dinner time the wind was “Blowing a Hooley” so Doug suggested that we didn’t pack ready for the fly-camp but instead leave everything until the morning & then “make a plan”.

Next: The Plan
 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

Great title and I think Doug would approve.  What dates did you go?  You did indeed see different things than our group did in Nov, 2022, but I recognize some locations. What good spotting by Doug of that elephant shrew.  How exciting to find that little guy.

[Seniortraveller]

Some familiar locations for me too, just wish my photos were as good as yours.
Really enjoying reading about your trip and it may make you feel better to know, that we did not see any rhinos either!

[AfricIan]

On 2/28/2024 at 4:10 AM, Atravelynn said:

Great title and I think Doug would approve.  What dates did you go?  You did indeed see different things than our group did in Nov, 2022, but I recognize some locations. What good spotting by Doug of that elephant shrew.  How exciting to find that little guy.

Thanks Lynn, I arrived in Harare on the 28th Sept (last year) & we flew down to Gonarezhou the following morning, flying back to Harare early afternoon on the 7th Oct.

A little grey shrew with little brown ears on a grey rock with brown leaves, how did he do that? That’s (one of) the reasons Doug is a great guide!

 

On 2/28/2024 at 6:42 AM, Seniortraveller said:

Some familiar locations for me too, just wish my photos were as good as yours.
Really enjoying reading about your trip and it may make you feel better to know, that we did not see any rhinos either!

Thanks for the comment on my photos but you haven’t seen the vast number that have been abandoned on the “cutting room floor”!
I don’t recall @BRACQUENEor @michael-ibk/ @Atravelynn saying they'd seen rhino either so they are clearly "a bit on the elusive side".

[AfricIan]

Next morning dawned drizzly & very windy so a “team discussion” was had on “The Plan” - essentially whether to fly-camp, stay where we were for another night or move to the Chilojo Cliffs camp & hopefully fly-camp later. With the wind as strong as it was, I think it was Matt who was of the opinion that he could well be chasing the fly(ing)-tents down the road/river and we would probably be rolled up inside them – it also transpired that we wouldn’t be able to stay at Masasanya so Option 3 was the universal choice.  Once we’d breakfasted & “packed”, the drizzle had stopped and although it remained very windy it was dry with the occasional peek of sun as we made our leisurely way eastwards towards the Chilojo Cliffs.

Chilojo Cliffs Tented Camp

Like Masasanya, we had sole use of The Chilojo Cliffs Camp which is a “classic” tented camp with large walk-in safari tents & en-suite facilities that is set on the banks of the Runde river, looking over the river towards the cliffs. 

 

 

 

 

It was still blowing a gale when we turned in and the light sleepers didn’t have a particularly restful night as the canvas flapped & the guy ropes creaked but we all made it through and we all agreed we’d made the right choice in postponing the fly-camp.

Next: Out & about from Chilojo

[AfricIan]

Out & about from Chilojo

 

It’s a bit easier to “compartmentalise” our time in Chilojo so I’ll start with our day “along the Sililijo River”:

 

Very thin markings on this Zebra, almost reminiscent of a Grevy’s but its back makings were really strange, almost as if there was an interference pattern between the stripes & camera sensor.

 

Doggies

 

and pups

 

Unfortunately they didn't hang around, quickly moving off into the bush & despite our best efforts to double back & “head them off at the pass” that was it but it wasn't long before Doug asked “Do you get the feeling we’re being watched”

As we were in the Sililijo valley these were therefore the “Sili boys” and almost certainly why the dogs weren't hanging around.

 

 

These were "new" to the area and clearly likely to cause a bit of a headache for the current pair of dominant males.

Further on, it’s always said that if you sit & wait then the wildlife will come to you – sure enough Kudu, Wildebeest & Zebra obliged.

with appearances from a supporting cast of:

Tawney Eagle

 

Dwarf Mongoose

Patrolling Hyaena

Customary Roadblock

 

Impala and Bush Duiker

 

Next: The Cliffs

[Atravelynn]

Love the ox pecker laden kudu!  When I saw the vertical panorama baobab shot I knew that was Doug's suggestion even before reading your caption.  Sept to early Oct is prime time in Gonarezhou!  Such a view from Chilojo Cliffs Camp.  I want to be there now!

[AfricIan]

4 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

When I saw the vertical panorama baobab shot I knew that was Doug's suggestion even before reading your caption.

And I thought I was the only person he’d shown that trick to 😂 

[Grasshopper_Club]

@AfricIanWe just must have seen us, while your group was leaving at the airstrip. I was flying in with the plane on the 7th of October and start my journey then through the park with Doug.

 

Great report so far and great sightings, looking forward for more and it keeps brining back memories from "Gonners" as well for me. (I should start goiing through my pictures finally).

 

Ah the bridge at the Nkwangulatilo Causeway nice one, the place where I had my first sundwoner in "Gonners"...

 

I was thouroghly impressed by diversity of scenery through the park and the game viewing quality.  Another hightlight which left me impressed was the infrastructre of the park, which is absolutely top notch (Thanks to Frankfurt Zoological Society).

 

First night at Masasanya Camp we had a windstorm as well. I liked these valley kind of habitat around Masasanya a lot, it was great for walks as you were able to see further in the distance, which makes it easier to spot the animals. During my stay this was also the only place we saw the Kori Bustards throughout the park, they must like that kind habitat in Gonarezhou.

[Atravelynn]

I always find it amusing and coincidental when safaritalkers run into each other!   I agree with the "thoroughly impressed" comment!

[AfricIan]

On 3/1/2024 at 10:55 AM, Grasshopper_Club said:

@AfricIanWe just must have seen us, while your group was leaving at the airstrip. I was flying in with the plane on the 7th of October and start my journey then through the park with Doug.

Ah, were you on the plane that we flew out on? If I remember correctly Doug was expecting two aircraft bringing the guests in from different places.

 

On 3/1/2024 at 8:45 PM, Atravelynn said:

I always find it amusing and coincidental when safaritalkers run into each other!   I agree with the "thoroughly impressed" comment!

Likewise.

[AfricIan]

Thanks for following along folk & apologies for the delay in instalments but here we go for our day featuring:

 

The Cliffs

 

The ele’s, Nyala, Hammerkop & Spoonbill were out as we headed out towards our “target” for the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

There had been a lot of “Lion Activity” during the night with “calls from the right, calls from the left, calls from behind” and we soon came across the scene of some “fisticuffs”.

We did look to see where the blood trail went but, unsurprisingly, nobody was that keen on walking into a hurt lion, even if it was just to his feelings!

 

Further up the hills we came across Dwarf Mongoose and Giraffe before we jumped out of the vehicle to walk along the top of the cliffs & admire the spectacular views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If I remember correctly this is a Verreaux´s Eagle nest but there was no sign of the owner.

 

 

Heading back, a very obliging Spotted Eagle Owl,

 

Bateleur & our friendly Nyala hadn’t moved far at all.

After lunch there had clearly been a death of some sort but we couldn’t see what 

 

then a bit later, our only sighting of Sable and more ele’s crossing the river

As the shadows lengthen we settled down at what must be the ideal sundowner spot

If only the ele herds had crossed whilst the cliffs were in full sunlight

And we headed for home & a chance to try out star shots

 

 

Next: The Pans
 

Edited March 6 by AfricIan
ID correction

[Atravelynn]

The cliffs, the glorious cliffs!  Lots of great views as foreground or background for your drinks.  You were surrounded by wildlife!

[michael-ibk]

Great photos Ian, takes me right back! I miss those cliffs, certainly one of the most stunning locations I've ever been to. The nest does indeed belong to to a Verreaux's but Eagle, not Eagle Owl.

[AfricIan]

9 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

Great photos Ian, takes me right back! I miss those cliffs, certainly one of the most stunning locations I've ever been to. The nest does indeed belong to to a Verreaux's but Eagle, not Eagle Owl.

Thanks for the complements on my photos Michael - still a lot of improvements needed though .  Thanks also for the correction to the Verreaux's, report amended.

[AfricIan]

Thanks for following along everyone, after a glorious sunrise we headed east towards the Save river and a few other early risers

 

 

 

 

 

Firstly to the Tembwahata pan where, other than a White-fronted Bee-eater having its breakfast and Great Egret, al the “action” was on the far side of the pan. 

 

 

Pleasant though the Tembwahata pan was, it was very quiet so we decided to try our luck at the Machaniwa Pan which did have a bit more activity even though a lot of it was still on the far bank.

 

Heading back to camp there were, of course, more Baobabs  

including this one where the park authorities are trying to prevent further elephant damage by piling branches around the base of the trunk.  They're also experimenting with wrapping "diamond fencing" around the trunk which does appear to be deterring the ele's.

 

En-route we had good sightings of large breeding herds of elephant, Nyala, Eland & Red-crested Korhaan. Doug also stopped to give us the “opportunity” of a swim – the cool river was most welcome but as I have control of which photographs go into this report you’ll have to use your imagination to conjure up the sight, best described, of a beached manatee in the river .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sundowner entertainment was provided by Waterbuck splashing across the river

 

 

 

and the day ended as it had begun

 

Next: Return of the “Sili boys” 

Edited March 8 by AfricIan

[inyathi]

On 2/29/2024 at 6:15 PM, AfricIan said:

Very thin markings on this Zebra, almost reminiscent of a Grevy’s but its back makings were really strange,

 

Very interested seeing your photo of the zebra with strange thin stripes, because it is clearly related to a herd, that I photographed on my Zim safari back in 2013, I included a couple of shots of this herd in a post in the Show us your Zebras topic, their stripe patterns are much the same, your zebra is probably not one of the individuals I saw, although wild zebras can live 20 years or so, I’ll check my other photos, just for interest, the unusual pattern must be the result of a genetic mutation that they share, so more likely it could be a foal from one of the zebras I saw, because they definitely have the same genes.

[AfricIan]

Very interesting indeed @inyathi, those markings really are so similar they must have a direct genetic link.  It's not something I've seen anywhere else.

 

There had been more “lion activity” during the night so Doug suggested we head upstream to see what was around and it wasn’t long before we came across the “Sili boys” chillin on the river bank. 

 

Suddenly though, one of them jumped up and raced off to our left closely followed by the others. By the time we’d turned round & re-joined the road we thought we’d lost them but as we crested the rise we glimpsed a pack of dogs high-tailing it away with the lions clustered in a group just inside the tree-line.   Our immediate concern was whether the lions had caught the dogs but once the lions had settled it looked like they’d managed a “snatch & grab” job on the dogs breakfast and hopefully all the dogs had got away.

 

 

 

One of the 5 was "much more equal than the others" & he was making sure he got the "lions share" of what we thought was an impala.

 

 

 

 

 

A lone Hyena came to investigate

 

But was soon "discouraged"

 

A Tawney Eagle had been watching the proceedings and when it flew off, landing again just before it went out of sight, we wondered if that's where the dogs had stopped but although it would have been an easy walk nobody fancied being lion fodder

 

Later, 
Baobab in leaf,

 

and back on the river, 

White-fronted Bee-eater,

 

Saddle-billed Stork,

 

Golden-breasted bunting

 

& what I think is a Sabota Lark?

Next: The Birds

[Atravelynn]

Before becoming a manatee were splashing like the waterbuck?  I still remember how refreshing and welcome that  little "swim" was.

[AfricIan]

21 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

Before becoming a manatee were splashing like the waterbuck?

Definitely not as athletic as the waterbuck but we certainly enjoyed a bit of splashing about until "teacher" told us to get out 

[AfricIan]

Next morning the “Sili boys” were back where we’d found them the morning before but today they didn’t seem inclined to do much

 

 

 

So we left them as we explored a bit more of the “Place-of-Elephants”

 

Not quite a "Boswell"

 

 

Like Mother, Like Son (or Daughter)

 

The plan for the afternoon was to walk over the river to a Carmine bee-eater colony but our departure from camp was a little delayed

 

 

But after a minor holdup & a couple of diversions to avoid some buffalo we made it to the top of the far bank & settled down to enjoy the show

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After more minor diversions to avoid the buffalo, we paddled back over the river to camp

As this was our last night, our evening meal was a “traditional” Zimbabwean braai which we had in front of camp on the sands of the river bed.  Our evening was a little curtailed though when the camp manager wandered over to ask us if we knew that one of the two resident male lions was sitting watching us ().

Next: Last morning miscellany 

Edited March 10 by AfricIan