Zanzibar and Nyerere-Selous in July 4 Nights Apiece

March 31

Zanzibar = Text in Colobus Red. Nyerere/Selous = Text in Lake Manze Blue. GOAT (Greatest Of All Time) Quote of the Trip, which occurred in Nyerere/Selous = Text in Purple

Dueling Sunsets, both at 6:20 pm.

Dhow in sunset viewed from Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town in Zanzibar

Sunset on Lake Manze, viewed from boat in Nyerere/Selous National Park

Zanzibar Red Colobus in Jozani, 7:55 am

Malachite Kingfisher on Lake Manze, Nyerere National/Selous Park, afternoon boat safari

Itinerary overview: Two nights up front in Dar es Salaam, allowing for a city tour; then Zanzibar for four visits to Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park in the Jozani Forest Reserve to see the Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkeys during a four-night stay at Maru Maru hotel in Stone Town; lastly, four nights at Lake Manze Camp in Nyerere/Selous National Park.

Whole trip booked through The Wild Source. Madeira Tours & Safaris, arranged by The Wild Source, were the Zanzibar operators with the dynamic duo of Guide Adam and Driver Suleman, nicknamed Pango. The specific heroics of Madeira Tours are described later in the report in bold.

Typically, safari in Nyerere (or wherever) is first, followed by relaxation in Zanzibar. My Zanzibar itinerary was quite busy--with no relaxing on the beach--and I consider safari to be the highlight of an itinerary, so I put it Zanzibar first and Nyerere at the end. But I think Zanzibar, with the monkeys and everything else, earned equal billing to Nyerere. Winners, both!

Zanzibar Red Colobus in Jozani Forest 3:55 pm

Maru Maru Hotel in the middle of Stone Town, Zanzibar was a warm, welcoming place to stay, with all sorts of interesting alcoves, back stairs and hidden hallways. Meaning I got lost a few times. Excellent, central location, a few minutes’ safe walk--day or evening--to Forodhani Gardens on the ocean front.

The 3 meals a day plan at Maru Maru worked for me, traveling alone and not prioritizing restaurants. Food was excellent. Only once did I skip a prepaid meal due to activities elsewhere. Opting out of the full board plan, though, would provide more dining variety.

Eles outside and inside my tent at the outstanding Lake Manze Camp in Nyerere National Park

Giraffe seen from the lounge at Lake Manze Camp, with the lake behind

Offerings at Nyerere National Park’s Lake Manze Camp were: half day game drives (one can be a boat trip) or one full day game viewing with bush lunch. Walks and fishing can be arranged at additional cost ($55 and $30 respectively). Each night we had nocturnal visitors to Lake Manze’s lounge and outdoor dining area, so bring your camera for the evening meal. Spotlighting is provided.

Greater Galago/Bush Baby in the Lake Manze Camp Lounge, seen regularly before the evening meal

Zanzibar Red Colobus in Jozani, 9:10 am

Zanzibar Red Colobus in Jozani ,9:15 am

Croc in Lake Manze, Nyerere National Park, afternoon boat safari

Itinerary Specifics for Zanzibar & Nyerere National Park in July, 2023:

7 Jul O/nt O’Hare Hilton at the airport.

8 Jul Kenya Airways. 7 am depart ORD, 10:30 am arrive JFK. 1:45 pm depart JFK.

9 Jul 10:30 am arrive NBO. 12:50 pm depart NBO, 2:15 pm arrive DAR. O/nt CBD Hotel, Dar es Salaam.

10 Jul Day in Dar es Salaam, city tour booked upon arrival with hotel O/nt CBD Hotel, Dar es Salaam.

11 Jul Depart CBD Hotel 9:30 am. Auric Air to Zanzibar, 11:00 am-11:20 am. Afternoon visit to Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park. O/nt Maru Maru in Stone Town. BLD

12 Jul Morning visit to Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park. Afternoon visit to Prison Island for Aldabra (land) Tortoises. O/nt Maru Maru in Stone Town. BLD

13 Jul Morning visit to Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park. Afternoon walking tour of Stone Town. O/nt Maru Maru in Stone Town. BLD

14 Jul Morning drive north to Nungwi. Morning visit to Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project. Quick Lunch. 30-minute horse ride/swim in ocean with Zanzibar Horse Club, Nungwi Beach. Snorkel at Mnemba Atoll. Late afternoon Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park visit. O/nt Maru Maru in Stone Town. BLD (I had lunch elsewhere)

15 Jul Depart Maru Maru 6:30 am. Coastal Air to Nyerere/Selous National Park, Mtemere Airstrip, 7:50 am - 9:15 am. Afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze Camp. O/nt Lake Manze. B-Maru Maru LD-Lake Manze

16 Jul Full day game drive. O/nt Lake Manze Camp. BLD

17 Jul Morning game drive. Afternoon game drive. O/nt Lake Manze Camp. BLD

18 Jul Morning boat safari on Lake Manze, then a short vehicle safari—a hybrid of the offerings by special request. Afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze, shared with another guest. O/nt Lake Manze Camp. BLD

19 Jul Morning game drive. Transfer to Mtemere Airstrip after lunch for Coastal Air to DAR, 12:50 – 2:00 pm. Kenya Airways, 8:45 pm depart DAR 10:05 pm arrive NBO. BL

20 Jul 12:05 am depart NBO, 7:00 am arrive LHR, 11:00 am depart LHR, 2:00 pm arrive ORD.

Giraffe, afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze. Giraffe were the most commonly seen mammal during my Nyerere visit.

Fish Eagle, morning game drive at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park

Malachite Kingfisher, afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

Two nights up front in CBD Hotel in Dar es Salam allowed a buffer for flight delays that seem to be more common now, provided time for potential lost luggage to be located, offered recovery time from jetlag, and permitted a day for a local activity to get a feel for Dar. Abuu’s Tours was suggested by CBD Hotel for a Dar es Salaam city tour. My credit card shows that Ballack Safaris was charged when I paid at Abuu’s Dar es Salaam office. Great choice--Abuu’s/Ballack, very enjoyable guide and fun activities--beach walk, fish markets, lunch, village museum with traditional houses plus traditional singing and dancing. Participation encouraged.

Dar es Salaam City Tour

Edited March 31 by Atravelynn

April 1

Red Colobus in Jozani, 9:30 am

The main draw of Zanzibar for me was the Zanzibar Red Colobus (Piliocolobus kirkii), also known as Kirk’s Monkeys and I made four Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park visits to view them, along with other forest creatures. Three Jozani outings were pre-booked through The Wild Source and I added a fourth through Madeira Tours once I was in Zanzibar. A single visit is the norm. I found each Jozani visit to be different and worthwhile. I was told mornings were best for the Red Colobus when they come down from the trees to eat and the babies were most playful then. Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park is about a one-hour drive from Stone Town on nice roads.

Very first sighting of Zanzibar Red Colobus in Jozani, 3:50 pm

Red Colobus in Jozani, 9:20 am

Red Colobus in Jozani, 7:40 am

The Jozani Forest Reserve is 50 km²and within the reserve is Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park at 19 km², open daily 7:30 am – 5 pm for visitors.

4:45 pm

7:55 am

Baker was the local guide for each Jozani visit. I really appreciated being given a private guide so we could spend more quality time with the monkeys and also look for shrews and suni. Our time in the forest ranged from one to two hours. Baker was outstanding.

4:50 pm

Baker and all the guides were sticklers for the rules. They shoed away vehicles that parked on the nearby road to unofficially look for monkeys that might be hanging around. No touching of monkeys was allowed by visitors and we had to stay out of their way, although the monkeys zoomed around on the ground very close to the people.

7:40 am

Careful monitoring of visitors’ behavior over the years (the park’s inception was 2004) have resulted in the Red Colobus being completely relaxed. The monkeys ignored us, sometimes even walking on top of our shoes. Neither a screaming human baby nor a rambunctious school field trip phased the Red Colobus.

7:55 am

4:50 pm

I saw probably 50 total Zanzibar Red Colobus in my 4 visits, with monkeys visible on each outing. I was told by several sources during my visit there were 5900 Zanzibar Red Colobus in the whole Jozani Forest Reserve and 2900 in the national park.

In 2017, a comprehensive count published as “Zanzibar’s endemic red colobus Piliocolobus kirkii: first systematic and total assessment of population, demography and distribution” found 5,800 total Zanzibar Red Colobus, with 69% or in the protected area network. In the International Union for Conservation 2021-2026 (Piliocolobus)action plan, Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park, which is the part of the Jozani Forest Reserve we visit, lists 2,900 Zanzibar Red Colobus.

5:30 pm--this is an after hour's sighting, explained later in bold, as part of the heroics of Madeira Tours.

7:55 am

Further findings in the International Union for Conservation Red colobus (Piliocolobus) conservation action plan 2021-2026:

“Forest loss continues at 1.1% per annum due to unmanaged development for tourism and housing, human population growth and agricultural expansion. Climate change is also expected to have a major impact on Unguja [known as Zanzibar] as most of the island is low lying, and forest sand agricultural lands are already affected by changes in sea level, water salination, patterns of precipitation, and soil qualit. Local people hunt red colobus for meat and because the red colobus is viewed by many as an agricultural pest. It is probable that the Zanzibar red colobus groups and individuals residing outside protected areas will not survive in the long term as their habitat continues to be lost.”

9:35 am

5:10 pm

We often searched 15-20 minutes to find a troop. Viewing time could be up to a half hour, though sometimes they were clearly in transit and on a mission and did not stick around. The terrain was uneven and full of roots but the paths were well-worn and it was easy going. I do recall being warned often to “watch where you step.”

4:50 pm

5:10 pm

9:35 am

After observing the monkeys, the typical Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park visit includes strolling the boardwalk through the enchanting mangroves. I did the mangrove walk on the first afternoon visit as evening approached.

Mangroves at Jozani, 4:45 pm

Mangroves at Jozani, 4:50 pm

Mangroves at Jozani, 5 pm

Mangroves at Jozani, 4:50 pm

Sykes Monkeys also inhabit Jozani. Red Colobus and Sykes Monkeys forage side-by-side peacefully in the trees and the youngsters play together.

The Sykes is in the upper left, joining two Red Colobus, 8:00 am

Sykes at Jozani, 7:50 am

Sykes at Jozani 4:30 pm

Colobus actually means “mutilated one” and refers to their lack of a thumb.

4 fingers of the Zanzibar Red Colobus, no thumb

4 fingers on the baby Zanzibar Red Colobus, no thumb

4 curved fingers on the baby Zanzibar Red Colobus, no thumb

Edited April 1 by Atravelynn

April 1

Scientists studying the Zanzibar Red Colobus made a fascinating discovery, reported in the 1997 in the International Journal of Primatology. The monkeys had developed a habit of collecting and gnawing on charcoal scraps from burnt tree stumps, kilns, and hearths, all products of human activity. This unusual and learned behavior allowed the monkeys to expand their diet to include new foods that normally would interfere with their digestion, such as Indian almond and mango.

Red Colobus in Jozani Forest, 4:00 pm

Red Colobus in Jozani Forest,4:45 pm

Back in Stone Town I watched the domestic cats that roamed everywhere and were often fed by local residents. I was told that various local and foreign charities sponsored neutering programs, which must have been fairly successful because I saw only a few kittens.

In collage form, Cats of Stone Town…

Some of the many cats of Stone Town

One cat in the tree and one on the ground, Stone Town

Stone Town

Is this cat a chameleon? Stone Town

Stone Town

Note the background. Stone Town

Cats and people got along fine in Stone Town

I witnessed only friendly feline encounters. Stone Town

Cat and the iconic wooden doorways of Stone Town

Dancing amongst the felines in Stone Town’s oceanfront Forodhani Gardens was the occasional butterfly.

Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town

In Swahili the Red Colobus are called Kima Punju, which translates to Poison Monkey because apparently, they smell bad. Perhaps their four-chambered stomach, like ruminants such as cows and deer have, contributes to their malodorous stench. I never noticed an odor.

Kima Punji, meaning Poison Monkey, 7:55 am

Kima Punji, meaning Poison Monkey, 9:30 am

2 Kima Punji, meaning Poison Monkey, 9:30 am

One of the charms of Stone Town, a UNESCO Heritage Site, is the carved wooden doorways that are not only functional, but pieces of art. I was able to appreciate them and learn about them on my afternoon Stone Town Walking Tour.

Examples of 3 of the doorways from the Stone Town walking tour with Guide Adam

Stone Town walking tour

Stone Town walking tour, faces blurred for posting here

Colorful markets seen on Stone Town walking tour with Guide Adam

The Old Slave Market, also visited on the walking tour, was a profound and disturbing experience.

As the sun sets on the Indian Ocean, the Forodhani Gardens at the waterfront come to life.

Grilled delicacies at Forodhani Gardens in Stone Town

Spectacular sunsets dropping into the Indian Ocean could be viewed from Forodhani Gardens Stone Town.

Viewed from Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town. 10 minutes from Maru Maru Hotel.

Enjoying the sunset, then walking for 10 minutes back to Maru Maru Hotel alone was safe on the dark and bustling streets.

To be continued

Edited April 1 by Atravelynn

April 1

~ @Atravelynn:

Who knew?

That was the thought flashing in mind while enjoying the comments and images.

The soulful eyes of the Sykes monkey at Jozani...the elegant Mylothris agathina perched in Forodhani Gardens...the vivid textiles on offer in Stone Town...lady in green, sitting kid, and cat...sunsets & silhouettes...exquisitely carved doors...sunlit mangroves...expressive Red Colobus faces...and an exceptionally talented international guest performer from Wisconsin.

What's not to like?

Thank you so much!

Tom K.

April 1

12 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

Who knew?

That was the thought flashing in mind while enjoying the comments and images.

The soulful eyes of the Sykes monkey at Jozani...the elegant Mylothris agathina perched in Forodhani Gardens...

Yes, of course. The Mylothris agathina. It was right on the tip of my tongue! Thank you for the ID, Tom! By the way, I'm donning your ST hat right now to head out, but I'm putting an ear warmer headband underneath!

Edited April 1 by Atravelynn

April 1

A great start. The Colobus monkeys are really beautiful, and your photos are stunning.

Wonderful sunsets also!

April 1

Love all the cats! (more than the monkeys, but that's just me.) I may need to go to Zanzibar just for all the cats. I see many of them are ear-tipped, indicating they've been neutered. Interesting.

But seriously although I'm not a monkey fan, those are very handsome monkeys and I'd go see them--your photos are fabulous too. Looking forward as always to the rest of your report.

April 1

1 hour ago, TonyQ said:

A great start. The Colobus monkeys are really beautiful, and your photos are stunning.

Wonderful sunsets also! Thank you, the sunsets continued over Lake Manze in Nyerere/Selous.

1 hour ago, janzin said:

Love all the cats! (more than the monkeys, but that's just me.) I may need to go to Zanzibar just for all the cats. I see many of them are ear-tipped, indicating they've been neutered. Interesting. There are local and international groups that neuter them, which is good. I made only two outing specifically for cats. You could get many cat photos with different backgrounds and different poses if you put your mind to it.

But seriously although I'm not a monkey fan, those are very handsome monkeys and I'd go see them--your photos are fabulous too. Looking forward as always to the rest of your report.

April 1

Always nice to have an @Atravelynntrip report, and a cool treat to have a cameo by the author.

April 2

Back to the Colobus…Good sightings and photo ops were not evenly distributed among the four visits. 1st visit in pm = 9 photos kept. 2nd visit in am = 2 photos kept. 3rd visit in am = 34 photos kept. 4th visit in pm = 29 photos kept. Weather conditions were similar for each visit. Not all the photos appear in this report.

8:00 am

3:55 pm

11:10 am, 1 of only 2 Colobus photos from the second morning

Jozani had more than monkeys. We saw an elephant shrew, a suni, a chameleon, and interesting insects.

Suni in Jozani. One sighting in 4 visits. Very relaxed, 10:25 am

Chameleon and millipede in Jozani Forest. Only 1 chameleon seen in 4 visits. 10:35 am.

Find the grasshopper.

There is a grasshopper hiding

Circled—grasshopper in Jozani

A trip highlight was seen shuffling through the leaf litter. Although half a dozen of these were seen darting in and out of the shadows, only one presented itself. I was ready with the Canon 7D Mark II Digital SLR, instead of the Sony RX10 that I used for most of the Jozani Forest shots. This elusive Elephant Shrew momentarily emerged from thick brush to my delight, and to Guide Baker’s as well.

Elephant Shrew in Jozani, 8:20 am

Butterfly in Jozani

One measure taken to help the Zanzibar Red Colobus population was the installation of speedbumps on the road near Jozani Forest Reserve. Primatologists from Bangor University in the UK, in collaboration with national park managers from Zanzibar and the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), assessed mortality of Red Colobus from vehicle collisions. They found historic data from the road traversing the national park showed that one colobus was killed on average every 2-3 weeks by traffic. After speedbumps were installed, this was reduced to one every 6 weeks. Results were published in Oryx – The International Journal of Conservation by Alexander V. Georgiev, Lecturer in Primatology at Bangor University, UK, & Harry Olgun, PhD student at Bangor University, UK, 16th March 2021.

Sorry no photos of speed bumps.

Red Colobus jumping down from tree, 9:30 am

Red Colobus jumping down from tree, 9:45 am

Ready for their closeups.

4:05 pm

4:10 pm

4:52 pm

I booked an afternoon visit to Prison Island to see the Aldabra tortoises through Madeira. About 2:15-4:15 pm, total from Maru Maru back to Maru Maru, with 20 minutes motor boat transport each way and an hour walking around the island and seeing/feeding the tortoises. On the island, a prison had been planned, and a few slaves were sent to the island as prisoners, but the building never housed any prisoners and was used as a hospital.

Adam and I hired a small boat to take us the 25-minute jaunt to the island in the afternoon, arriving just before the 3 pm feeding. We participated with lettuce leaves. It is best to time the visit with the feedings if possible.

Dhow seen from our little motorboat on the way to Prison Island

Dik dik and the ocean from Prison Island.

Aldabra tortoise on Prison Island

Aldabra tortoise tongue visible, seen on Prison Island

Aldabra tortoise on Prison Island

Aldabra tortoise being fed on Prison Island

Aldabra tortoise being fed by me on Prison Island

On the last two Jozani Forest visits, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, the mothers and babies came out. My first two visits, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, only adults were seen.

9:35 am

8:55 am

9:35 am

7:55 am

9:25 am

4:45 pm

To be continued

Edited April 3 by Atravelynn

April 2

1 hour ago, Zubbie15 said:

Always nice to have an @Atravelynntrip report, and a cool treat to have a cameo by the author.

Always nice to have gone places worthy of a trip report. Thanks! You were able to pick me out of the crowd. Good spotting skills!

Edited April 2 by Atravelynn

April 2

I remember you commenting on my trip report and I wondered if you'd write this up. It certainly conjurs up all the memories for me. The red colobus monkey photos are superb; we didn't make the trip to see these while on Zanzibar and now I really wish we'd done so.

April 2

6 hours ago, JimS said:

I remember you commenting on my trip report and I wondered if you'd write this up. It certainly conjurs up all the memories for me. The red colobus monkey photos are superb; we didn't make the trip to see these while on Zanzibar and now I really wish we'd done so.

Colobus next time. And then you can include Ruaha and Katavi, maybe Mikumi in Southern Tanzania and if you want to see chimps, Mahale. There is always something more, something else we'd like to see which sends many us back to Africa again.

I was looking over your August departure just before I posted this.

April 2

I love your photos--the monkeys are so expressive! And now I have yet ANOTHER place to add to my lengthening list of places to visit!

April 2

~ @Atravelynn:

As if the very finest Suni image I've ever seen wasn't enough, Aldabran tortoise portraits and Amauris niavius perching on Stachytarpheta jamaicensis in Jozani.

The hits keep on coming!

Thank you!

Tom K.

Edited April 2 by Tom Kellie

April 3

3 hours ago, mtanenbaum said:

I love your photos--the monkeys are so expressive! And now I have yet ANOTHER place to add to my lengthening list of places to visit!

Thanks, that darn lengthy list that keeps growing. I've got one too.

My last full day in Zanzibar demonstrates the competency, flexibility and honesty of Madeira Tours & Safaris Zanzibar. After I arrived in Zanzibar, I added horseback riding in the ocean, snorkeling at Mnemba Atoll and one more Jozani trip--all booked through Madeira. The Wild Source had already me booked for the Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project as part of my itinerary, so that made four activities in one day, a busy schedule but do-able.

When we arrived at the Zanzibar Nungwi Beach Horse Club stables, we learned there was a problem with the horse ride/swim. Our printed, paid-for vouchers did not match what the horse club could provide, resulting in Adam of Madeira making lots of phone calls to rearrange the other three activities I was doing throughout the island that day, and he even got the Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park to extend my visit beyond closing hours. This new itinerary made a long day even longer, extending the hours of Guide Adam and Driver Pango into the evening, which was not the original plan. The final cost of everything was actually $80 less than what I had originally paid. The Madeira office said I’d get a refund from Driver Pango when he took me to the airport at the end of my trip. And I did. $80 USD. Now THAT’S a GREAT COMPANY!! MADEIRA TOURS & SAFARIS ZANZIBAR!!

The Final Day Itinerary in Zanzibar is shown here for reference in case anybody else wants to do many things within one day. It shows how this is possible, even with a glitch that ate up extra time.

8:00-9:30 Drive from Maru Maru Hotel, Stone Town to Nungwi, at the northern end of the island

9:30-10:00 Talking with horse club about my outing and rescheduling the other outings, due to the horse club’s goof up.

10:00-10:20 Drive to Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project

10:20-11:25 Time with the turtles

11:25-12:00 Lunch

12:00-12:15 Back to horse club stables

12:15-1:00 Nungwi Beach horse ride/swim, 30 minutes in the ocean on the horse

1:00-1:50 Drive to departure point for Mnemba Atoll

1:50-3:25 Boat ride to/from Mnemba Atoll, snorkel at Mnemba Atoll

3:25-4:40 Drive to Jozani

4:40- 5:45 Time spent with Red Colobus at Jozani

5:45-6:50 Drive back to Maru Maru Hotel in Stone Town

The ride/swim from the Zanzibar Horse Club at Nungwi Beach allowed 30 minutes in the water with the horse. A local woman doing a photo shoot on horseback joined me, my horse named Jay, and the lead rider. She wore a beautiful flowing green outfit and her makeup was perfect. Her horse was a beauty, too. But she was afraid. So, after a couple of photos on her horse in the water, she called it quits and it was just Horse Jay and me, plus the lead rider and a very attentive “photographer/videographer” who carried my phone (wearing my neck strap) and ran alongside. He did a great job. It was an enjoyable half hour in the ocean with Jay!

30 Minute Indian Ocean outing with Zanzibar Horse Club at Nungwi Beach

The Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project is a lagoon sanctuary, fed by the waters of the Indian Ocean. The mission is to nurture and rehabilitate sea turtles that have been injured or accidentally caught by fisherman for release back into the wild. A simply fascinating place where guests can swim with the turtles and feed them sea weed!

Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project

Most turtles are very enthusiastic participants in the feeding, but those that are not have large areas to swim and eat without disturbance. Normally anyone entering the lagoon must first shower and wash to protect the turtles and habitat from contaminants, but the showers were not working the day I was there. About 5 other people were in and out of the water during my 45 minutes of treading water, wading, and feeding many of the 40-50 turtles that live there. Staff members constantly monitored all human-turtle interactions and explained the operations of the project. They also took a variety of nice photos of us in the water. Unlike the Aldabra land tortoises of Prison Island, these turtles have teeth, so be careful to keep fingers out of their mouths when feeding.

Mnarani Marine Turtle Conservation Project and me and my waterproof watch

I did not want to leave Zanzibar without snorkeling and the Mnemba Atoll is one of the best places to snorkel from the island. The day I went the waves were a bit rough, but the sun was out with only a few clouds for good water visibility, plus I am an experienced snorkeler. So it had the makings of a fine outing. I was in the water about 45 minutes but did not see many fish at all. Had I known how little I would see, I probably would not have made the effort to go. Guide Adam helped me rent the mask and snorkel at an oceanside shop; I did not bring my own gear. But gear was not the issue.

Still, I did have a bizarre and rather funny experience while snorkeling. Ours was the only boat in sight at the atoll and I was the only snorkeler in the water for about 20 minutes. Then another boat with many occupants arrived, but nobody jumped into the water. Continuing to snorkel, I noticed a life preserver appear near me several times and then realized it was actually being tossed toward me then reeled back into the other boat. “Oh no,” I thought, “am I floundering in the waves to the point that the people on this boat think I’m drowning? I know I am not Diana Nyad, but is my snorkeling really that pathetic?” Then I started thinking that it made no sense these strangers felt they needed to save me when my own boat with Guide Adam and the Captain were clearly not in rescue mode.

It finally dawned on me that this other boat was playing human ring toss with me. Before it got annoying, they stopped, retrieved their life preserver and sped back to shore.

When I exited the water after snorkeling and boarded our boat, I asked what was going on with that other boat and Adam told me it was typical for some groups of tourists to boat out to the atoll but never snorkel, just to say they went. None of them would have been able to see marine life if they stayed in the boat, so I guess playing human ring toss with me a few times was their entertainment. I’m pleased to know I contributed to the success of their brief water excursion. But I think they owe me a tip.

5:10 pm

The only way the fourth and final Jozani visit would fit into the day’s revised schedule was if I could stay beyond closing hours.

Guide Adam had called the Jozani Guide, Baker, that morning to make the request and it was granted. What an example of truly going the extra mile, and I so appreciated everyone's efforts, but I thought that realistically I probably would see very few monkeys because they’d be bedding down by the time of my late arrival. Wrong! The Colobus had overslept and gotten a very late start that day. All the Colobus activities proceeded on a delayed schedule and the monkeys were in full swing when I arrived about 4:45 pm! Light was still fine. A beautiful visit, well worth the efforts made by all my “handlers.”

4:50 pm

5:20 pm

4:50 pm

5:05 pm

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE ADAPTER

The G-type adapter was used throughout Zanzibar and Tanzania. Type G is always the one I have used in Tanzania.

To be continued, Lake Manze in Nyerere/Selous

Edited April 3 by Atravelynn

April 3

41 minutes ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

As if the very finest Suni image I've ever seen wasn't enough, Aldabran tortoise portraits and Amauris niavius perching on Stachytarpheta jamaicensis in Jozani.

The Suni and I both thank you. You continue to provide us the proper Latin terminology for what was seen. Gratias tibi ago!

April 3

Underscoring the atypical order of Zanzibar first, followed by safari, my 12-passenger Coastal Air scheduled flight from Zanzibar to Mtemere Airstrip in Nyerere National Park carried only one passenger—me. I had been warned when booking that a minimum of two passengers may be needed to avoid a surcharge, but none was assessed.

The drive from Mtemere Airstrip to Lake Manze Camp is about an hour.

A young Bateleur Eagle welcomed me to Nyerere

I met the Lake Manze camp managers, Shaun and Millie, and brought them greetings from previous clients, @michael-ibk and @AndMic, whom they remembered fondly, though their stay was brief. Michael and Andreas had to vacate due to severe flooding.

A quick word on Wild Dogs, which were not seen during my visit. In many African parks, a good strategy to see wild dogs is to visit when they are denning (usually June-Aug during the dry season) so their whereabouts can be somewhat known. But Nyerere National Park is so large and so much of it off-limits to vehicles, that the denning site likely would be inaccessible. The green season gives better odds of seeing the wild dogs when they are on the move and may be traversing areas that can be visited.

Offerings at Nyerere’s Lake Manze Camp were: half day game drives (one can be a boat trip) or one full day game viewing with bush lunch. Walks and fishing can be arranged at additional cost ($55 and $30 respectively). I did neither. Each night we had nocturnal visitors to Lake Manze’s lounge and outdoor dining area, so bring your camera for the evening meal. Spotlighting is provided.

Greater Galago/Bush Baby seen nightly around dinner time at Lake Manze Camp’s lounge area.

Genet seen nightly around dinner time at Lake Manze Camp’s lounge area.

Activities during my 4 nights at Lake Manze Camp in Nyerere National Park:

15 Jul – Lunch upon arrival. Afternoon boat safari.

16 Jul – Full day vehicle safari with packed lunch.

17 Jul – Morning boat safari. Afternoon vehicle safari.

18 Jul – Morning boat safari, then a short vehicle safari—a hybrid of the offerings, put together by special request. Afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze, shared with another guest.

19 Jul Morning vehicle safari. Drive to Mtemere Airstrip for departure after lunch.

Some of the many giraffes seen, all day game drive in Nyerere

One of the few elephants seen, morning game drive in Nyerere

Although I did not book a private trip at Lake Manze Camp, all except one boat safari was private. Quite the unexpected luxury for both me and the other solo traveler, who also enjoyed private activities, with the exception of our one shared enjoyable boat safari. Credit to managers Sean and Millie of Lake Manze for the private offerings, much appreciated! In fact, I appreciated everything about Lake Manze Camp—food, staff, rooms, wildlife in camp. Loved it!

Baboon in sunrise at Lake Manze Camp

Yellow-billed stork on afternoon, shared boat safari

Giraffe were the most ubiquitous mammal during my Nyerere visit. These were in front of Lake Manze Camp, the lake behind. The boat can be seen in the distance, along with a hippo and buffalo.

Some of the many butterflies seen in Nyerere...calling@Tom Kellie

Plentiful and continuing rain meant conditions in Nyerere were more like June than mid-July. We had heavy cloud cover at least half of our days and showers at the very end. Mammals were somewhat scarce, but the Malachite Kingfishers were very relaxed since wet conditions translated to plentiful food.

One of the relaxed Malachite Kingfishers, afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze, Nyerere National Park

Lots of rain also meant that Lake Manze itself was easily navigated. If it’s too dry, the boat safaris might have to take place at one of the other lakes in the area instead of just a couple minute drive to the launch point on Lake Manze. On every boat safari it was only my boat, no other boats were on the lake, adding to the magical experience that is Lake Manze.

Fish eagle in cloud-filled skies, afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

Fish eagle in cloud-filled skies, morning game drive on Lake Manze

One of the relaxed Malachite Kingfishers, afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

My first activity in Nyerere was an afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze. From what I was told, getting out on the water immediately seems to be the norm.

Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari

The Egyptian Goose family suddenly gathered together and stood motionless on the shore of Lake Manze as a Fish Eagle flew overhead.

Fish Eagle flying. Below is an Egyptian Goose Family, standing motionless (not seen in this photo). Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari.

One of the relaxed Malachite Kingfishers, Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari

It was not only the obliging demeanor of the kingfishers, but excellent motoring skills of the boat captain that permitted good views and photo of this colorful bird, and other birds along the water.

Preening Pied Kingfisher, Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari

Yellow-billed storks on Lake Manze afternoon boat safari

Pair of Malachite Kingfishers, Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari

Croc enters water as the sun goes down, Lake Manze, afternoon boat safari

6:05 pm, sunset on Lake Manze in Nyerere National Park, seen during afternoon boat safari

That first night at dinner I met a couple who had been at Lake Manze Camp for two days on their first safari. They had been looking for lions but had not found them. That convinced me to do a full-day safari the next day, along with them, so there’d be two vehicles searching for lions and we could communicate if we found them, which we did not.

To be continued

Edited April 3 by Atravelynn

April 3

Some of the many butterflies seen in Nyerere...calling@Tom Kellie

~ @Atravelynn: Such a wealth of Malachite Kingfisher images!

The clarity of the image showing a crocodile entering the water at Lake Manze is superb.

Never have I seen a more appealing Egyptian Goose family portrait.

And, yes, there are several Belenois creona severina fluttering at Nyerere.

The Zanzibar and Tanzania Tourist Boards are in your debt!

Tom K.

April 3

A wonderful report as always Lynn, a joy to read. I was in Zanzibar as part of my very first safari. Didn't go for the Colobus back then and really regret that now seeing your photos. And the Turtle experience looks great too. I'm not a horse person but that must have been a very special activity. You look gorgeous in those photos especially. Ah, Lake Manze - really a great, old style camp with very nice managers. Would love to go back. Looking forward to more. 😀

April 3

The colobus visits look like a really worthwhile way of spending time out of Zanzibar. Really great set of pictures of them.

April 3

5 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

A wonderful report as always Lynn, a joy to read. I was in Zanzibar as part of my very first safari. Didn't go for the Colobus back then and really regret that now seeing your photos.

Thanks! You may not have seen Colobus, but I believe a caracal crossed your path on that first trip.

2 hours ago, Zim Girl said:

The colobus visits look like a really worthwhile way of spending time out of Zanzibar. Really great set of pictures of them.

Thank you, then it is all settled, your replacement trip for Svalbard will be 2 weeks in Jozani Forest looking for Zanzibar Red Colobus!

Another fine binomial contribution, @Tom Kellie. May I keep you on standby for a couple more?

April 3

Lovely Nyerere pictures. It sounds like it was wetter when you were there, which I guess contributed to the different mix of mammals. We had more luck with lion, for which I'm very grateful, especially for the rest of my family as it was our first safari and I don't know if they'll do a repeat trip (I seem to be the only one that caught the Africa bug).

April 4

Full day out in the park, keeping eyes and ears alert for lions, which had not been seen in many days, and would remain hidden today. But we saw other cool stuff.

Black-chested Snake Eagle, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Miniature migration of wildebeest, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

The only baboon photo outside of camp, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Most species in one shot this trip—giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, impala, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park. This was the only zebra photographed on the trip.

Giraffes were the star mammal of the trip, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park.

Giraffes, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

One small herd of elephants was seen in the trees, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Pied kingfisher on land, full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Lots of butterflies because I like them, though I fall short of a lepidopterist. Also because they were around even when birds or mammals were not. Guide Omari and Driver Saduro were very accommodating with my requests to find butterflies and maneuver the vehicle, waiting patiently for photos.

African Monarch on full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Butterflies on full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

From butterflies to a dragonfly on full day game drive in Nyerere National Park

Spoonbill and African Jacana at Lake Tagalala, Nyerere during our lunch stop, full day game drive

“What an odd looking chick for that white bird,” said someone who saw this photo.

Nyerere National Park, mid-morning of a full day safari.

Ground Hornbill with insect, full day game drive, Nyerere National Park, a highlight of the day for me but not for the insect

Side-striped Jackal, the only jackal seen, full day game drive Nyerere National Park. Not a common sighting I was told.

I so hope three kudu is enough to be considered a forkl. I want to claim a forkl of kudu sighting.

A forkl of kudu, full day game drive, Nyerere National Park

Brown snake Eagle, full day game drive, Nyerere National Park

As the day drew to an end the sun was setting on a young Crested Barbet.

Young Crested Barbet near end of our full day game drive, Nyerere National Park

Young Crested Barbet and parent near end of our full day game drive, Nyerere National Park

What better way to end a long day on safari than with a dust bath?

Dust bath by Lilac-breasted Roller to end our full day in Nyerere National Park

That night after dinner some tears were shed by the woman on her first safari, whom I had met when I arrived. She was not mourning the lack of a lion sighting during her stay, but the end of her safari. The Africa bug had bitten her. She’ll be back.

To be continued

Edited April 4 by Atravelynn

April 4

4 hours ago, JimS said:

Lovely Nyerere pictures. It sounds like it was wetter when you were there, which I guess contributed to the different mix of mammals. Yes, one month made a difference. We had more luck with lion, Do you recall if it was the big pride of 15 or so? for which I'm very grateful, especially for the rest of my family as it was our first safari and I don't know if they'll do a repeat trip Then it's good to see lion, along with the other animals. (I seem to be the only one that caught the Africa bug). Funny how some "catch" it and some don't. The lady who was crying at departure caught it, that was evident. Also evident was that her partner had not caught it, though he enjoyed his time at Lake Manze Camp.

Zanzibar and Nyerere-Selous in July 4 Nights Apiece

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