Zanzibar and Nyerere-Selous in July 4 Nights Apiece

[Zubbie15]

You seem much more understanding of the human target practice than I would have been! How anyone could think that's a good idea I don't know. 

 

Was there any talk while you were Nyereee about trying to increase the number of tourists to the park? Given the size of it I would imagine eventually you could try to have a situation like in the Serengeti, where it's common to go to multiple areas during one visit. I'm just trying to figure out how the Tanzanian government is planning to accommodate the big increases in tourists they keep forecasting (hopefully not just putting more camps in the Serengeti.) 

[Atravelynn]

34 minutes ago, Zubbie15 said:

You seem much more understanding of the human target practice than I would have been! How anyone could think that's a good idea I don't know. 

By the time I figured out what was going on, they stopped.

34 minutes ago, Zubbie15 said:

Was there any talk while you were Nyereee about trying to increase the number of tourists to the park? Given the size of it I would imagine eventually you could try to have a situation like in the Serengeti, where it's common to go to multiple areas during one visit. I'm just trying to figure out how the Tanzanian government is planning to accommodate the big increases in tourists they keep forecasting (hopefully not just putting more camps in the Serengeti.) 

The talk was more just being hopeful that the return to normal travel after covid would eventually be felt in destinations beyond the most common ones, like the Serengeti.  Strategies to increase the Nyerere numbers? I don't recall any specifics.   Concern that the number of visitors had not rebounded? Yes.  They were hoping to hang in there until normal levels of occupancy returned, which had been very adequate in the past.  The number of visitors at Mdonya Old River Camp in Ruaha, also an Essential Destination property, apparently were better. 

[Africalover]

@Atravelynn Thanks for your TR. Love Selous - been there several times. Did you have any discussions regarding the dam at Stiglers Gorge. Opening time and concerns regarding impact of the ecosystem ?

[Zubbie15]

4 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

They were hoping to hang in there until normal levels of occupancy returned, which had been very adequate in the past. 

Ok, thanks. I have to say when I originally read how few of you were there, I had to go back to confirm that your trip was in July! I'm surprised things haven't rebounded, certainly all the trips I've taken in the part couple of years have been full of people. 

[Atravelynn]

7 hours ago, Africalover said:

@Atravelynn Thanks for your TR. Love Selous Understandable! - been there several times. Did you have any discussions regarding the dam at Stiglers Gorge. Opening time and concerns regarding impact of the ecosystem ?

No we did not.

Edited April 4 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

The second full day in Nyerere began with a game drive, destination Lake Siwandu, bush breakfast enroute.  And BUSH PIGS at the outset!  They were far away and moving even farther away fast.  Driver Saduro did a good job of swinging the vehicle around to bring them into view.  We all were thrilled with this uncommon find!

 

 

Bush pigs tearing through the bush in low light at the start of a morning game drive, 7:05 am

 

 

Martial Eagle, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Grooming Hadada Ibis, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Preparing for bush breakfast, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

Seated at bush breakfast

 

 

In keeping with the shades of blue color theme for breakfast decor, it was arranged for this butterfly to alight nearby.  The Lake Manze staff attend to every last detail.

Nyerere Butterfly at breakfast

 

 

 

2 Lilac-breasted Rollers determined not to fly, morning game drive in Nyerere National Park

 

 

Impala Lily, morning game drive

 

 

 

Tower of Giraffes at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park,  morning game drive

 

 

Hippo and eagle nest at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Red-billed Oxpecker and hippo at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish eagle nest with adult and eaglet at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish eagle flying over hippo pod at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Cattle egret and hippo at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

 Cattle egret and hippo at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

Fish Eagle and eaglet at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagle at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagle at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagle at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagles in nest at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagles in nest at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish Eagles in nest at lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish eagle nest with both adults and eaglet peeking out at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

Fish eagle nest and eaglet peeking out at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

 

African Monarchs at Lake Siwandu, Nyerere National Park, morning game drive

 

This Lake Siwandu scene of many giraffe, hippos, butterflies, and birds--both flying and nesting--had me not knowing just where to look or point my camera.  Guide Omari responded to my dilemma with: “The wild is busy.”

 

 

Pithy, truthful, poetic in a way reserved for thoughts expressed in English when other languages are the mother tongue, this is the Quote of the Trip!  The wild is busy—in my opinion, The Greatest Of All Time (GOAT) as far as Quotes of the Trip go, making it a GOAT Quote!

 

Edited April 5 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Our afternoon plan was originally a boat safari until we received word that the 15-member resident lion pride had been spotted for the first time in many, many days.  So we changed plans and went lion hunting.  Driver Saduro displayed his skills at the wheel, successfully delivering us to a distant section of the park to see the lions, then returning us back to camp before park closing time.  Complicating matters, the pride was hunkered down in thick brush, not easy to see.  Only a few lions were visible, and not for long, but fortunately one cub’s lazy antics were strikingly winsome.

 

Only a Brown Snake Eagle caused us to pause on our mission to seek the distant lions. Afternoon game drive, Nyerere National Park.

 

 

 

 

Cub from pride of 15 lions, afternoon game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

For the third full day in Nyerere, my morning outing was a hybrid boat and vehicle safari combo, by special request, thanks to the flexibility of Camp Managers, Sean and Milie, and the enthusiastic agreement from the guides.  Our morning boat safari on Lake Manze to the palm tree rookeries was followed by an abbreviated vehicle safari.

 

But between camp and Lake Manze was a baobab tree with a killer bee hive.  When it is cool, such as early morning or just before sunset, observing the hive is safe because the bees are not active until it warms up.

 

Killer bee hive, between camp and the lake, viewed in the cool of morning when the bees are safely inactive

 

 

Croc during morning boat safari, Lake Manze in Nyerere National Park

 

 

Hippos in morning light during morning boat safari, Lake Manze, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Croc during morning boat safari, Lake Manze in Nyerere National Park

 

 

A variety of birds made their nests in palm trees along the distant shore of Lake Manze.  The trees were far from where the boat could motor, so I used the 125x optical zoom of the Nikon P1000 to bring their activities into view/focus. The birds seemed oblivious to us during the hour we spent observing.

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks and Great White Pelicans. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Great White Pelicans. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms lining Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Gray Heron. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks and Spoonbills.  Morning boat safari.

 

 

The fascinating rookery viewing was briefly interrupted by the colorful bit distant Malachite Kingfisher, this one with breakfast.  For the record, I switched back to my Canon 7D Mark II DLSR for the kingfisher eating a fish, as the Nikon P1000 does not do well for me when there is motion.

 

 

  Malachite Kingfisher, morning boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks and Great White Pelicans. Morning boat safari.

 

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Great White Pelicans. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Black-headed Heron. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari. See one more chick in lower left.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Rookery in the palms along Lake Manze, Yellow-billed Storks. Morning boat safari.

 

 

Viewing the nesting site was a very special sighting. What a privilege to have a glimpse of their homes and youngsters, while being ignored by the birds.

 

Black crake showing off its enormous feet during morning boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

Back on land the bird show continued with Ground Hornbills winging past. Very exciting!

 

Ground Hornbill, morning game drive in Nyerere National Park, following boat safari

 

The lion pride proved an easier target in the morning than the previous night and I was able to fit all 15 members into my line of sight, most of them flat cats, but a couple were momentarily active, engaging in typical cat fare.

 

Morning game drive in Nyerere National Park, following boat safari.

 

 

Morning game drive in Nyerere National Park, following boat safari.

 

 

Morning game drive in Nyerere National Park, following boat safari.

 

Reminds me of veils on those vintage 1940s pillbox hats.

 

Morning game drive in Nyerere National Park, following boat safari.

To be continued, back on the lake in the afternoon

Edited April 5 by Atravelynn

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Atravelynn: The wealth of sightings in Nyerere complements the beauty seen in Zanzibar.

 

Lions displaying dentition...ground hornbills in flight...a black crake, no less...yellow-billed storks at leisure...hippos a-go-go...a truly fearsome hive...fish eagles...and the every-lovely Malachite kingfishers.

 

Not to overlook Danaus chrysippus dorippus at Lake Siwandu and Junonia orithya in Nyerere.

 

While safaris may be for fun and relaxation, yours also demonstrated how much beauty is on offer in Tanzania.

 

Thank you!

 

         Tom K.

 

 

[madaboutcheetah]

Glad you found the Lions !!  You had a good trip!

[TonyQ]

A beautiful sequence of the eagles on the nest, and you did well to see the lions

[JimS]

On 4/4/2024 at 1:21 AM, Atravelynn said:

Yes, one month made a difference.

 

Not sure if you'd realised, our trip was in 2022 so a year and a month

 

On 4/4/2024 at 1:21 AM, Atravelynn said:

Do you recall if it was the big pride of 15 or so?

 

That sounds quite probable. Here's an update of my map showing where we found them. In the area north of Lake Siwandu we had 4 lion sightings on 3 separate drives, always solitary. In contrast, to the west of Lake Manze we found a group (number unknown, they were well hidden) in trees across a dry riverbed, a solitary old male lounging a few 100m away, and another 200-400m away we found a group of adolescents (I think we spotted 4 or 5).

[michael-ibk]

That whole area is so very scenic, and your photos show that very well. Cool you got Bushpig. Our guide spotted some when we were there but we never saw them, they were gone again that quickly. Lovely experience with the rookery. So was that Lady really wanting to see them still with you when you found the Lions?

[JimS]

Very glad you found lion in the end, initially I thought you'd had no luck at all there.

 

I see what you mean about the giraffe numbers now - that's a big group!

[Atravelynn]

11 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Glad you found the Lions !!  You had a good trip!  Yes, no orange stripes on this trip, but very good indeed!

 

11 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

 

...hippos a-go-go...

 

Great term from the 60's.  I may borrow that in the future.  Thanks, Tom!

 

1 hour ago, TonyQ said:

A beautiful sequence of the eagles on the nest, The nesting pair with their little one was a trip highlight. and you did well to see the lions

 

1 hour ago, JimS said:

Very glad you found lion in the end, initially I thought you'd had no luck at all there.  It would have been my first safari without lions, when they were in the area.  I've had trips with no lions, but it was in regions where none existed or they were almost never seen.

 

Love your map! 

 

1 hour ago, michael-ibk said:

So was that Lady really wanting to see them still with you when you found the Lions?  No, she left before the lions surfaced and never saw any.  But she was so taken with the whole African experience  that she said the lack of lions did not really matter.  I bet she has returned already.  She only had to travel from Italy.  Her exuberance in contrast to her partner's demeanor (which was very pleasant but he was not smitten with safari) was interesting to observe.

 

Edited April 5 by Atravelynn

[mtanenbaum]

I loving your trip report! But where's the photo of the whole pride of lying down lions? 

[Atravelynn]

41 minutes ago, mtanenbaum said:

I loving your trip report! But where's the photo of the whole pride of lying down lions?   Thanks, Margo.  It was a lackluster shot that did not show all 15 lions, so I did not include it. The 15 were within the field of view of my own eyeballs, not the view of the camera lens.   Here are some of the sleeping cats.

Edited April 5 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

A Dutch woman who had traveled often to Tanzania and was spending about a week at Lake Manze, followed by another week in Ruaha at Mdonya Old River Camp--both Essential Destinations properties--joined me on the afternoon boat safari.  This was my only shared game activity, and she was a delightful person to share with. Her couple of weeks in Southern Tanzania made me a little envious I must admit.

 

The afternoon sky had turned cloudy as the photos will show.

 

Afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

 

 

Only terrapin seen, on afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

 

 

Black-winged stilt with slightly fluffier juvenile in background. Afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze.

 

 

Wire-tailed Swallow chicks on afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

 

 

Adult Water thick-knee foreground and chick in the background on afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

 

 

 

This fuzzy little Black Crake chick endeared itself to us during the afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze.  The mother was nearby, as was a sibling.

 

 

 

The Malachite Kingfishers continued to be out in force.  I think they knew they were a highlight.

 

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

Cool wind in my hair…

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

 

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

 

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

Malachite Kingfisher on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

 

The sun started to shine through the clouds.

 

Hadada Ibis on afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze

 

 

One of a couple buffaloes seen throughout the trip, this one alongside Lake Manze.  This one counts as one, not two.

 

 

 

Croc seen on afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze

 

 

 

Croc seen on afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze

 

 

 

Afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze, sun breaking through thick clouds

 

 

 Giraffe, Grey Heron atop the tree, Black-winged stilt below on afternoon boat safari, Lake Manze

 

 

I did not realize I had observed mating giraffes until I got home and looked at the photo.  Afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze.

 

 

The giraffe reflections took shape as the sun emerged through clouds.

Giraffe on afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze

 

 

Giraffe on afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze

 

 

Fish Eagle on afternoon boat safari in Lake Manze

 

 

A highlight of the afternoon boat safari on Lake Manze is the sunset, so it was fortunate the heavy clouds did not stick around low to the horizon to block that out.

Sunset viewed from the boat 6:15-6:20 pm Lake Manze, Nyerere

 

 Sunset viewed from the boat 6:15-6:20 pm Lake Manze, Nyerere

 

  Sunset viewed from the boat 6:15-6:20 pm Lake Manze, Nyerere

 

 

  Sunset viewed from the boat 6:15-6:20 pm Lake Manze, Nyerere

 

 

   Sunset viewed from the boat 6:15-6:20 pm Lake Manze, Nyerere

 

 

 

The last game drive on my final morning in Nyerere paired colorful blossoms and butterflies with darkening skies.

 

Hyena peeking through the flowering yellow thorn acacia.  I love the mischievous look.  Morning game drive Nyerere National Park.

 

 

Impala, morning game drive Nyerere National Park

 

 

Impala lily, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

 

Butterfly on yellow thorn acacia, quarry that became a man-made Hippo Pool, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Morning game drive, quarry that become a man-made Hippo Pool, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Is this pair of fish eagles looking at the gathering clouds and anticipating rain?

Morning game drive, quarry that became a man-made Hippo Pool, Nyerere National Park

 

 

The tree hyrax is tasked with bidding me farewell.

Tree Hyrax on morning game drive in Nyerere National Park

 

 

This male Von der Decken flew in to announce the coming rain, that descended in sheets just before my time in Nyerere was up.

 

Von der Decken hornbill, morning game drive, Nyerere National Park

 

 

Departing Nyerere, greened by abundant, recent, and current rain.

 

 

To remain in Nyerere into August, check out @JimS's trip report.

 

 

The End

 

 

Edited April 6 by Atravelynn

[TonyQ]

Beautiful sunsets. It sounds like a wonderful trip. Excellent photos throughout. Thank you for posting

[ricmiles]

That sunset over the river is stunning 

[Athene]

@Atravelynn really beautiful sunsets, both Zanzibar and Nyerere. I also like your Zanzibar Red Colobus monkeys. We were in Nyerere last August. We also saw mainly giraffes and lots of birds. We had one lion sighting with only 3 or 4 females and a few sub-adults. Our guide told us the big pride was close to Beho Beho. Our lodge was Roho ya Selous at Lake Nzerakera.

[Atravelynn]

15 hours ago, TonyQ said:

Beautiful sunsets. It sounds like a wonderful trip. Excellent photos throughout. Thank you for posting

 

11 hours ago, ricmiles said:

That sunset over the river is stunning 

 

Thank you, Gentlemen. Yes, the sunsets are a highlight of the afternoon Lake Manze boat trips.  The timing is not right for sunrises in the morning, so none then.

9 hours ago, Athene said:

@Atravelynn really beautiful sunsets, both Zanzibar and Nyerere. I also like your Zanzibar Red Colobus monkeys.  Thanks! We were in Nyerere last August. We also saw mainly giraffes and lots of birds. Interesting you had a similar experience in the month after me. We had one lion sighting with only 3 or 4 females and a few sub-adults. Our guide told us the big pride was close to Beho Beho. Our lodge was Roho ya Selous at Lake Nzerakera.

 

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Atravelynn:

 

Both Junonia hierta and Junonia natalica at the man-made Hippo Pool are wonderfully vivid images.

 

Thank you for including butterflies in a trip report filled with sightings of larger species.

 

As ever, the diverse styles of your trip reports is pleasing to an armchair traveler.

 

The effort and care you devote to these posts is inspiring.

 

      Tom K.

[Atravelynn]

3 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

 

Both Junonia hierta and Junonia natalica at the man-made Hippo Pool are wonderfully vivid images.

 

Thank you for including butterflies in a trip report filled with sightings of larger species.

 

As ever, the diverse styles of your trip reports is pleasing to an armchair traveler.  You are hardly armchair. Perhaps only to catch your breath or correct a few papers between safaris!

 

The effort and care you devote to these posts is inspiring.  Thank you!

 

      Tom K.

 

[Zubbie15]

Thanks for sharing @Atravelynn, veto informative as always. I have to say I really like the photos of the one lion cub from the afternoon, the second in particular would almost certainly end up on my wall! 

[Atravelynn]

1 hour ago, Zubbie15 said:

Thanks for sharing @Atravelynn, veto informative as always. I have to say I really like the photos of the one lion cub from the afternoon, the second in particular would almost certainly end up on my wall! 

Thanks, it made the wild ride to get to the pride worth it.  The guides and drivers really want to show off their lions and don't want guests to spend several days there without seeing any.  So we all were happy, and the lions, being cats, were nonchalant.