Postcards from Kenya

[madaboutcheetah]

Twaffle,

 

the 4 cheetahs - 4 male coalition?

 

Looks a great trip, and thanks again for the report

[twaffle]

Thanks everyone.

 

Mags, sounds like a great trip for you coming up.

 

MAC, divided thought on the 4 cheetah, either 3 adult cubs and mother or 4 males (was told 2 different things), not able to check whether all were males but they all look like adults so possibly 4 males. I must check. The kinked tale is a dead give away, so if you hear of any reports about them in the triangle let me know. We had such fantastic cheetah sightings despite not seeing the mum with 6 cubs.

 

My guide friend is in the Mara at the moment and saw 8 different leopards as well as seeing the cheetah with her 6 cubs still going strong. So despite the heavy rain, they are having a wonderful time. Makes me want to be there now!

[madaboutcheetah]

From your pic, they appear to be young adults and big Cheetah. My best guess is they are males....

 

I have not been following news from the Mara, except for your trip report and the newsletters I get from Governor's camp. Shall keep a look out.

 

Cheetah with 6 cubs is always awesome .......... how old are the cubs?

Edited March 24, 2011 by madaboutcheetah

[Bugs]

WOW Twaff - awesome stuff.

 

Poor little buck. Jackals are horrid things.

[twaffle]

Hari, I think they must be nearing 1 year because they looked a good size when Africaddict saw them during the migration. Still fluffy though.

 

Dikdik, I know your opinion of jackals is coloured by your farm but I don't see much difference between their hunting and that of wild dogs or hyaenas. Tough being prey anyway you look at it!

[madaboutcheetah]

Wow!!! Six cubs at a year old is the best possible news!!!!

[Atravelynn]

Exciting action with the canines!

[twaffle]

Out of the Mists

 

Heavy mists settled in the valley in front of the tents, shrouding the Mara River from view. An almost full moon had glistened off the clouds for much of the night, providing a soft light through the tent walls.

 

Pushing through the mists we ventured onto the plains of the Mara North Conservancy, looking for a perfect sunrise vantage location. Wildebeest gently "meh"ed and walked towards us out of the mist, looking for all the world like ghosts from migrations past.

 

 

The mist lifted slightly and we could see a small shape moving quickly in the distance. Driving closer we were amazed to see our first aardwolf and our surprise was equalled by his horror. He sat, looked at us for the briefest moment and then disappeared into the swirling mists.

 

 

The mists seemed to thicken and we realised that our magical, legendary Mara sunrise was not to be. We sat surrounded by deadened sounds of animals moving, animals we couldn't really see. There didn't appear to be any reason to move but Daniel knew of a good spot for sunrises, just in case. We drove for a short while and then Daniel and Kimathi stopped and looked at each other. Then we drove back in another direction passed a small, windswept tree, then stopped. Daniel started to laugh, he said it was the first time he had become lost in his own back yard and all because of the unexpected mists. Finally the mists lifted and he could see some trees which looked possible so drove in that direction and I set up my tripod.

 

On the horizon I saw a lone topi standing near a tree, surrounded by the remnant fog and as we watched, the sun slowly rose behind it. Glowing a soft orange it pierced the clouds and cast a gentle colour across the sky. We were astounded by the beauty of the sun and the mists, realising that although we didn't get the spectacular skies we had hoped for, the delicate sunrise we had been offered was more than enough to fulfil us.

 

 

And when we had photographed and taken in the sight to our satisfaction we drove on and were given more.

 

[twaffle]

A few images from the rest of that morning's drive.

 

 

 

 

 

And for those who are interested in these things, not another vehicle in sight.

[twaffle]

Ask and you shall receive

 

And so it seemed to me. All the things I had asked my guides for had materialised. The Lewa cheetahs, black rhino charge (yes I had laughingly said that would be 'nice' ), elephants under rainbows, caracal and serval, leopard cubs, more cheetahs than I could have possibly expected (ok, I dipped out on the 6 cubs) … sightings I've forgotten now. I had three last wishes for Daniel, a big male lion in the rain, a saddle billed stork and an aardvark or pangolin, I wasn't too fussy which one.

 

Our last afternoon on safari. Who would believe it. It is hard not to climb into the Landcruiser with a heavy heart but once out on the plains the breeze blows all your sadness away.

 

We drove out to Leopard Gorge but saw no leopards. Lots of elephants, herbivores, birds. Plenty of interest. Then it started to rain heavily. We knew that the omens for rain falling were high, it had been raining on and off since lunch but we decided to go out no matter what. Jokingly I said to Daniel, "well, it's raining lets go find those big male lions then" … and we did. Just like that.

 

First we saw a lioness sitting on a rock and we also saw another vehicle watching quietly.

 

 

Then we followed one of the two males of the pride as I wanted photos of the rain and just a hint of profile.

 

 

It was so dark though, which rather spoiled the opportunities for photography, but we didn't care.

 

The other male had other things on his mind.

 

 

One of the few other vehicles seen in the Mara North.

 

[twaffle]

The pride moved off to a nearby ridge looking like they were just a little interested in sounds of distant zebras. Instead of following his mates, one lion suddenly took off down the hill, first at a steady lope and then breaking into a fast gallop. Intrigued we followed slowly behind, soon losing him in the bushes. The other vehicles which now numbered two, headed off after the other lions.

 

Thinking he must have disappeared into the bushes, perhaps exiting on the other side, we chose to cross a small culvert to reach the other side. It had been raining steadily now for a couple of hours. The ground was wet. The ground was thick, black, sticky mud. We got stuck. Now Kimathi is an excellent driver and had extricated us from all sorts of other adventures, both this year and last so I had little concern. As he tried to manoeuvre the vehicle out, we slowly slid sidewards towards a ledge which would have landed us on our sides in the creek. By this time I was laughing rather uncontrollably which wasn't much help except for lightening the mood. It certainly couldn't lighten anything else as night was falling fast. Just in case, I packed my cameras away and zipped up my camera bag covering it with the inbuilt water proof cover. Can't be too careful.

 

A couple of 4x4s from nearby camps passed by looking for the lions and stopped to help. The driver from one attached a tow rope to our vehicle but couldn't pull us out. One of his guests, a well dressed woman, also hopped out to look although what good she would do I'll never know. We mentioned to them that there was a lion somewhere about, perhaps in the bushes next to us but she ignored us and didn't in fact, even acknowledge that we had spoken. Then one of the guests in the other vehicle called out that the lion had appeared. We looked around and sure enough, there he was, watching us with great interest.

 

Everyone worked just a little bit faster and we were heaved out with great acclaim. It is hard to get a feel of how close he was as I used a wide angle lens, but it felt close enough to add a certain piquancy to the rescue.

 

 

We carefully drove around the culvert and went back to the other side where we stopped to watch the lion approach where we had been stuck. Then he stood and called and called, the muddy marks of our predicament in the background. It was eerie and beautiful.

 

[twaffle]

Our flight was leaving in the afternoon so we had a last morning drive. I don't remember much about it, the last day of a trip always leaves my head dull and heavy. When we least expected it though, we were given our sunrise.

 

 

Sometimes I wonder why it is that some places have such a strong hold, then I look at some of the unexpected treasures a safari give us and I cease to question it.

A sense of adventure so hard to get in a normal, first world life.

A closeness to wild animals who go about their lives, accepting us into their theatre.

Being alone and able to think clearly again.

Allowing yourself the pleasure of dust in the hair and dirt under your nails.

Wearing jeans covered in flamingo droppings from where you lay on the banks of Lake Nakuru to get that perfect photographic angle … does anyone care? Not the people I see.

A thousand little things which you think you missed, until a sound or a smell brings back the memory with a vividness which can be stunning in its power.

 

But I digress.

 

Approaching the Musiara gates for the last time, we see a group of 5 or 6 hippos lying out of the water of a small channel. A farewell party, far from the main river.

 

 

Then we do a last drive past the marshes and there, poking above the reeds is the unmistable mask of the saddle billed stork.

 

 

All too soon our Safarilink plane arrives and there is no time to remind Daniel and Kimathi that we have failed in our quest for the Aardvark or the Pangolin. It seems uncharitable to speak of failures when we have been so very blessed and I remember that it is always good to leave knowing that there are things left unsaid and unseen. For I, at least, know now that I shall return.

 

[twaffle]

Finals

 

How I wish I don't have to wear glasses. I can't see clearly out the Cessna's window with them on, I can't see to write these pages with them off. As I leave the Mara I look down on the plains, green from recent rain and am reminded of the wealth of wildlife treasures contained therein. Much maligned for being over populated with tourists, those very same tourists providing the much needed income. Balance in nature as in all things is so hard to come by. My experience on nearly every occasion, and almost all sightings is so far from what I read about that it almost is impossible to reconcile the two. I remind myself that the migration is to be avoided here.

Despite all the negatives surrounding the reserve, it delivers and delivers and delivers. Out of migration, during the migration and even now, for me, when expecting the hot and dry January weather and finding rain and thunderstorms everyday in a country burdened by drought.

 

This flight matches my mood. Leaping up and down erratically and despite its discomfort it seems like a fitting farewell.

[twaffle]

Bits and pieces; this and that

 

I flew from Australia with Qatar Airways through Doha. Excellent airline … highly recommended.

 

For my transfers I contacted my taxi driver from the previous year, David Kimani. He owns a fleet of 5 modern vehicles and is an excellent companion. safarioptions@yahoo.com I contacted him by email and booked him for my transfers and for a couple of full day excursions. 6000shillings for a full day (roughly $94), the transfer HKIA to Macushla (Karen) was 2000shillings ($30) and the transfer from Macushla to Wilsons was 1200 shillings ($14). I have yet to find anything this economical. His vehicles are modern and immaculate and the service was impeccable. So I will definitely use him again. I always like to share lunch with my driver and David is great company and I can catch up on all the local political issues.

 

I stayed 2 nights at Macushla on arrival and 2 nights on departure. A small, boutique hotel with a pretty garden, swimming pool, nice little restaurant and very reasonable. $120 bed and breakfast and although I booked a twin room for my sister and me, they gave us separate rooms for no extra cost and also charged us the previous year's rates. Highly recommended. I usually leave my excess luggage there for safe keeping. One of the Maasai staff members found out we were heading to the Mara and he was just off for a few days to visit his mum in the Mara himself. When we got back to Macushla he was there and had brought back some beautiful necklaces and bracelets which his mum made for us especially. They were beautiful and he would accept no payment.

 

I booked the first part of the trip through Thomas Njanga at Sunworld Safaris in Nairobi. Very prompt with replies and getting quotes to me, I was more than happy with the service despite one little niggle. This was the only company which charged the international bank fees for the direct transfer back to us. So we ended up owing over $100 in charges.

 

We hired a 4x4 vehicle with a driver/guide, Ken Naikuni, who I knew from a previous trip. Excellent guide and fun company. Felt very at home. We also hired a chef for the self catering nights and this was Amos who was an astounding cook. Highly recommend him also. The chef cost an extra $35 per day plus $40 per person per day for food. A bargain on top of the very cheap accommodation at the self catering bandas. The food price included soft drinks and Tuskers (local beers) and, of course, all the bottled water we needed.

We stayed 2 nights at Lake Nakuru lodge at $145 pppn. A large lodge with buffet meals. Nice views towards the lake. Not very personal but perfect for our needs in this area.

The Tusk Bandas cost $120 per night for the whole banda and Kinna Bandas were $100. If there were several in a group it would be very cheap per person.

 

The vehicle and driver cost $335 per day which included all fuel, unlimited game drivers, park fees for the vehicle (provided it was registered in Kenya … haha! ).

 

Sunworld do charge a $150 booking fee per person. Not quite sure why but c'est la vie.

 

Ken dropped us off at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy where we were met by Simon from Wilderness Trails. I had booked this part of the trip through Bush and Beyond who handle the WT bookings. I paid for 1 full day with a private vehicle and guide which cost an extra $300 so couldn't justify more than the one day. However, we were very fortunate that we ended up having Simon to ourselves for the whole time we were there and as he is their senior guide we felt very lucky. Perhaps one of the perks of revisiting a place and being really, really nice to everyone!

Conservancy fees are $90 pppd.

Accommodation was $560 pppn and the Lewa - Mara direct flight with Safarilink was $320 each.

 

Wilderness Trails includes all drinks and has beautiful rooms with lovely views. Simon was just the most fantastic guide and is working towards his Gold.

 

We stayed 7 nights at Serian camp, 3 in their mobile at Nkorombo and 4 at Main camp. Although the rates quoted were $675pppn Alex gave us a very good deal as I was a returning guest and they always deserve something extra (or at least, that's what I think ). This price includes a private 4x4 vehicle, a guide AND a driver plus all drinks plus, plus. I booked all the Serian part through Rhoda from their Nairobi office.

 

The flight from the Mara back to Wilson's was about $200 each but I can't find where I wrote down the price.

 

Park fees were on top of all those prices.

 

I was happy with the mix of accommodations, loved the self catering but it was nice to finish on a pampered note.

 

I have included a few camp photos, but better ones can be seen online.

 

Would I do the same again? You bet.

[twaffle]

Too many cooks in the kitchen? Trying to get the Patrol started at Meru NP.

 

Amos and Ken in the kitchen at Tusk Bandas, Aberdares.

 

Our sleeping quarters at Meru NP.

 

Sleeping quarters at Nkorombo.

 

In the Serian Main camp's gathering area.

 

One of the Serian tents.

 

Not my tent.

 

The lunch table at Serian.

 

Our bathroom.

 

Lunch at Tusk Bandas, Aberdares … self catering, take a cook!

 

The dining table and drinks at Nkorombo.

 

Dining table out in the Mara.

 

Ken and I discussing roads in the Aberdares.

 

Me photographing termite mounds in the Mara Reserve.

 

Signs of the times?

 

Health warnings on another guests cigarettes.

[twaffle]

And just to prove that I did, in fact think about all you Safaritalkers whilst I was away on safari, here are two photos of me writing my trip report!

 

At Macushla

 

On the flight home

 

Thanks for staying along with me for the journey.

[samburumags]

Must go and get a hankie!!!! Gosh Twaffle that was a report and a half and you were so kind about mine! You should put it all in a book, I would certainly buy it. Well I am off again in October (remember I said last year would be the last time) so I will have to improve my writing skills but could never hope to come up to your standard. I laughed about the "smart lady" there are a few of those around unfortunately, but I agree with you about sightings of vehicles as I only saw more than one at a time unless there was a leopard around and that is quite understandable in my view.

 

Looking forward to the next one (your report I mean).

[twaffle]

Thanks Mags for your kind comments. The truth is, I really enjoy reading about everyone's different experiences and how they relate them to those of us who didn't go. All the different styles of writing and photos are interesting to me. My style won't suit everyone, I know but hope they aren't too brutal!

[PT123]

Twaffle,

 

What an absolutely wonderful report. I'm happy for you that you got to see just about everything that you wanted and were able to share such great pictures!

 

Cheers and happy Friday!

 

Paul

[Game Warden]

For those of us desk bound... trip reports are a way of living the dream. Twaffle thanks for taking the effort with this one, and great to see such dedication on the plane home. When I see members getting such pleasure from contributing to ST, it reaffirms for me that setting up Safaritalk all those years ago was the right thing to do. To be honest I never expected it to be such a thriving community, but boy am I glad it is...

[Treepol]

Twaffle,

 

thank you so much for another beautifully written and evocative trip report. Thanks also for including the details in the bits n pieces section, self-catering is a fantastic option for Kenya.

 

Who knows I may get to do this myself on a return trip.

 

Your photos are beautiful and have provided much enjoyment as I 'safari' from home.

 

 

Regards,

 

 

Pol

[twaffle]

Thanks Matt and Pol, it is one of the unexpected pleasures I've gained from ST, that of sharing safaris with like minded people. I never thought it would be so rewarding.

 

Pol, you are in Tassie? I think that is right. I love that state and keep threatening to migrate there as it is the most beautiful part of Australia. Hope you try self catering bandas one day, nice way to extend a safari.

[Jochen]

For those of us desk bound... trip reports are a way of living the dream.

 

Agree 110%

 

Kenya was off my radar, Twaffle. You've put it back on.

 

And I am <seriously> homesick now. 8 weeks to go! Does anyone recognize this: the more I go to Africa, the more every safari feels like getting a short parole from prison?

[twaffle]

Jochen, I quite understand but 8 weeks is not so far away. Where are you headed this time? You may have said but I've missed it. Another trip report to look forward to.

[Jochen]

Jochen, I quite understand but 8 weeks is not so far away. Where are you headed this time? You may have said but I've missed it. Another trip report to look forward to.

 

Same place again; South Africa near Kruger. Umkumbe in Sabi Sands, nThambo in Klaserie and Simbavati in Timbavati.