From Meru To Mara

[michael-ibk]

Thanks for your generous comments, @@madaboutcheetah , @@Sangeeta , @@Soukous , @@twaffle , @@pault , @@Geoff , @@Marks , @@SafariChick, @@TonyQ , @@Treepol , @@graceland and @@FlyTraveler.

[michael-ibk]

Up North here in the Musiara Marsh the Mara is much wetter than in the other areas we had visited so far. Good for us, we came pretty close to a Malachite Kingfisher.

 

 

Afterwards we spent some time with vultures squabbling over the remains of a wildebeest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hooded Vulture

 

 

Rüppel´s Griffon Vulture

 

[michael-ibk]

Shortly afterwards we found some of the Mara´s most famous lions, several members of the Marsh pride, stars of the BBC´s Big Cat Diaries.

 

 

They had no desire to entertain, though, and were doing what lions do best - sleep, sleep sleep, rarely even bothering to look at us. (We were the only car.)

 

 

 

Since they did nothing we soon left them. We had fun watching this roller which was very unskilled at eating - it always lost a beetle it had found.

 

 

 

 

 

The Ololoolo escarpment in the background.

 

The swamp area was teeming with grazers:

 

 

 

We drove farther North, near the border of the reserve at Musiara Gate, and crossed through thousands and thousands of Gnus.

 

 

 

We took our breakfast here, all surrounded by a never-ending "gnuing." Music to our ears!

 

 

 

 

 

Female Yellow-Throated Sandgrouse with two admirers courting her.

 

James was following some small creeks along the border of the reserve and then drove South again, always staying close to semi-forested areas. Just yesterday I had "ordered" Leopard, and now he was trying to find one. This being the Mara he was successful.

 

 

This male was clearly hungry, and on the hunt. A difficult sighting photography-wise (it was close to noon already, he was always moving between shadows and light) but beautiful in every other way, especially since we had him all to ourselves.

 

 

 

He suddenly dashed off, probably after a hare, but failed to get it. He didn´t give up though and followed it deeper into the bush where we couldn´t follow him anylonger.

 

[Safaridude]

Just caught up to a big chunk of this. I particularly enjoyed your Aderdares section. I have never been up there. It looks fascinating.

[michael-ibk]

Last afternoon game drive, and with this thought in mind I was almost kind of melancholic when we crossed the Olare Orok once again.

 

 

Curious Elands.

 

We felt a bit like voyeurs shortly afterwards - mating mongoose caught in the act.

 

 

 

 

A third one was close by, possibly standing guard?

 

 

 

 

Topi-style Hartebeest.

 

We then saw some cars queuing near some trees - a leopard was there. He was sleeping on the ground, barely visible in the grass, and we had no desire to participate in the jostling game and so moved on.

 

 

Where´s the Leopard?

 

 

Grey-Backed Shrike.

 

 

 

 

Crowned Lapwings

 

[michael-ibk]

Again the weather had gotten worse (as so often on our Mara afternoons), but the mixture of sunlight fighting its way through dark clouds made for a fascinating scenery.





I always enjoy Topis!

 

Secretary Bird

 

Once again, we payed a visit to our old friends, the Ol Kiombo pride.

 

The cubs were sleeping deep inside the shrubbery this time, and we soon left again.

 

The Ol Kiombo pride is never alone. Since they don´t move around too much, and everyone knows where they are they are a safe bet for all lion friends. But I did never mind the other cars around them too much, the lions were never circled, and everyone behaved well here. Just to give an impression what it´s like:

 

Last stop at the Mara river.

 

We knew what was coming now. Mara Bush Camp does a "surprise" sundowner for every guest on their last day. Since people, well, talk to each other in camp, it´s no surprise to anybody. But James did surprise us, he had something much, much better up his sleeve for us than drinks and fingerfood, a true safari highlight.

 

What would it be at the end of the road?

[FlyTraveler]

So many great sightings @@michael-ibk - the cheetah with the Tommie fawn, the lioness with the baby warthog, the lion cabs, the giraffe and Tommie (was it?) silhouettes, the sunrise, the leopard... I have never seen mating mongoose before... I think that I spotted a very familiar vehicle on the third photo up from my post - the third vehicle from the left to the right - I believe that it's easy to identify it since I have never seen any other Land Rover with the upper part of the doors cut off for photographic purposes and the seat next to the driver removed, so you can take eye level photos of lions, for example. Open all around, but you can roll out the canvas if needed. All bars padded so you don't break your ribs while standing during a ride. We enjoyed it for 3 full days (12 hours a day non-stop game drives, just two of us and the guide) in the Mara last year...

 

Speaking of this, how would you compare your experiences in Serengeti and Masai Mara? Is the ability to go off-road while following high-value sightings in Mara a significant advantage over the no off-road at all rules in Serengeti?

 

This Kenyan trip of yours has been absolutely fascinating all the way from Samburu to Mara. I really enjoyed every single installment, and looking forward to seeing the grand finale...

Edited December 13, 2014 by FlyTraveler

[Kitsafari]

@@michael-ibk coming back to your TR after a very long break and your pictures cheered me no end. Thank you.

 

such sad news about malaika's cub but a fantastic sequence of her and the cubs.

imagine if the guide hadn't been that alert - that guy would have gotten away with the cubs. makes one wonder how often it has happened before.

 

Love those pics of the mongoose standing. and as usual, love love your landscape pictures and the moody cloudy dark skies contrasting with the stunning sunrise and sunsets.

[Kitsafari]

@@michael-ibk on to page 10 -and Madame Cheetah is so beautiful. you captured her beauty well.

 

and those pix of the lion cubs are adorable. my favourites are the one with the little pink tongue peeking out while she lies on the mum and then followed by her paw on her face.

 

hyenas are seldom objects of appeal so thank you for spending so many pix on them. the mum is impressive and the little black bundles are cute.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@FlyTraveler and @@Kitsafari.

So many great sightings ..., the giraffe and Tommie (was it?) silhouettes

Actually, it´s Ostrich and Topi.

I think that I spotted a very familiar vehicle on the third photo up from my post - the third vehicle from the left to the right - I believe that it's easy to identify it since I have never seen any other Land Rover with the upper part of the doors cut off for photographic purposes and the seat next to the driver removed, so you can take eye level photos of lions, for example. Open all around, but you can roll out the canvas if needed. All bars padded so you don't break your ribs while standing during a ride. We enjoyed it for 3 full days (12 hours a day non-stop game drives, just two of us and the guide) in the Mara last year...

Yes, I remember from your trip report. That would be very useful for photography. Speaking of cars, while I still prefer the completely open models in Botswana (ideally without roof for me), there´s no denying that the type mostly used in Kenya is much easier for stabilizing cameras. (We had beanbags provided by Sunworld.)

Speaking of this, how would you compare your experiences in Serengeti and Masai Mara? Is the ability to go off-road while following high-value sightings in Mara a significant advantage over the no off-road at all rules in Serengeti?

I read several times here on ST that one would be allowed to offroad for "important" sightings. James told us that that is not true, offroading is as off-limits in the Mara as in the Serengeti according to him. But just in theory, absolutely no one respects that rule because the rangers are not really enforcing it. The fine seems to be KSH 10000. At times it would actually be difficult to stick to the rule because it´s not really clear if where one is driving at the moment is a proper, "allowed" road or something created by offroaders. And I confess, it´s almost psychologically impossible to stick to a rule all on your own.

 

It´s really hard for me to compare my Serengeti and Mara experiences, because the circumstances were so different. I was in Seronera with a group, and our guide really was no guide at all (since it was my first safari I didn´t notice, and didn´t really care.) Now we had time, could start and stay out when and as long we wanted, and look at birds and smaller stuff as long as we wished. That made much more of a difference.

This Kenyan trip of yours has been absolutely fascinating all the way from Samburu to Mara.

Thanks, but ... Ahem ... do check the title of this thread again.

my favourites are the one with the little pink tongue peeking out while she lies on the mum and then followed by her paw on her face.

Thanks, Kit, that one is a favourite of mine as well.

Edited December 13, 2014 by michael-ibk

[graceland]

Adorable cubs - lion and hyena - sure hope we see some @@Kitsafari!

 

I remember your Serengeti report as well, Michael and this one comes across so much more personal, emotionall and in -depth as only a private can do!

We get spoiled very quickly

 

Been a great read with many amazing shots --and"keepers"

 

There is a posting going around her on: "Is Photography Art? I truly beiieve it is when Africa is captured so beautifully by the many talented "photogs" here on St , including yourself.

 

I loved your early morning sunrise shot; as I have them here at my home as well over water.. I tried to capture it with my iphone this morning..but it was all fuzzy. And muddy. So much for my skiils

Edited December 13, 2014 by graceland

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@graceland .

 

It´s true that doing this safari on a private basis really enhanced the whole experience so much, and yes, one does get spoilt by that. My wallet screams "Scale back, scale back!", but it´s not easy going back. Oh well, I´m sure Botswana will make me.

 

I won´t say anything (ok, not much) to the art compliment - I´m flattered but mostly embarrassed.

[FlyTraveler]

This Kenyan trip of yours has been absolutely fascinating all the way from Samburu to Mara.

 

Thanks, but ... Ahem ... do check the title of this thread again.

 

Sorry, my mistake, I just thought that Samburu was your first park and didn't quite look at the title... Thanks for the replies to my other questions.

Where to next?

Edited December 14, 2014 by FlyTraveler

[michael-ibk]

India in March for a 18-day-trip ... Kaziranga, Kanha, Pench and Tadoba.

[michael-ibk]

So, what was better than a surprise sundowner? A safari gem ....

 

 

A Leopard cub! Apologies for the quality of the pics, it was pretty dark by now, and they were up a rock, probably about 80m away.

 

 

The little one was probably about 2 months old.

 

 

At this age, they can´t climb trees yet, so their mothers hide them in places like these.

 

 

A beautiful sighting, with only two other cars there (one of which had alerted James to this).

 

 

The Safari God really had made us a most generous farewell gift with this one.

 

 

The cub was a bundle of energy, always jumping up and down on and between the rocks. Can´t be easy for its mother to guard an adventurous little rascal like this one.

 

 

After half an hour they had enough of our admiration and retreated into the shrubbery.

 

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

I have very much enjoyed this latest section - I love the baby hyenas.

And that is a special treat at the end to see such a small leopard cub.

Edited December 14, 2014 by TonyQ

[michael-ibk]

The last sunrise in Africa.

 

 

We still had a few hours before we had to get back to Nairobi (by car), so we wanted to make the most of it and started at 6 o´clock sharp. The night had been an African serenade of Hyena, Lion and even Leopard calling nearby. I miss that.

 

We had woken up early tonight, there was quite a commotion at the other side of the Olare Orok, and we wanted to check out what was up there. After passing a few hippos returning to their daytime homes we soon found a few hyenas in the riverine forest who were apparently feasting on a buffalo. Maybe a sick one, or they had stolen it from lions?

 

Just a bit further along we found the outcome of another nightly wildlife drama:

 

 

 

 

She was feeding on a wildebeest, alone at first, but the scavengers of the savanna soon arrived. Hyenas, Jackals, Marabus, Vultures and Tawny Eagles.

 

 

 

 

The lioness didn´t seem to angst too much about the hyenas though more and more of them were arriving. And indeed, they didn´t dare to behave aggressively towards her at all but were patiently lying down and waiting for their shares.

 

 

 

 

Eventually she had eaten her fill and left. A party for the queue!

 

Leaving:

 

 

 

 

 

Tawny vs. Vulture vs. Marabu:

 

[michael-ibk]

We left when other cars eventually arrived. Papa lion was close by, absolutely stuffed from breakfast as well, he had trouble breathing. The flies seemed to love his meaty odor.

 

 

 

We then had a sighting which can probably only happen in the Mara.

 

 

Hogari again, I think, the third time we saw him.

 

 

 

"Where´s the cheetah?"

 

 

A last visit to the Ol Kiombo pride, but nearly everybody seemed to be out of house this time.

 

 

They had left snacks, though.

 

 

The sun came out a last time to say good bye.

 

 

And that was it then. We crossed the Olare Orak one last time, had a quick breakfast, promised camp manager Leslie and our guide James to return soon and then drove back to Nairobi. Home from there.

 

Edited December 14, 2014 by michael-ibk

[graceland]

Thanks, @@graceland .

 

It´s true that doing this safari on a private basis really enhanced the whole experience so much, and yes, one does get spoilt by that. My wallet screams "Scale back, scale back!", but it´s not easy going back. Oh well, I´m sure Botswana will make me.

 

I won´t say anything (ok, not much) to the art compliment - I´m flattered but mostly embarrassed.

 

 

Don't be. I thought you had some awesome sights; and having a guide who can position you as James did certainly adds to the quality. I remember thinking to myself at times, why doesn't this guide (usually not a private) turn the vehicle or move "over there" so we can actually get better shots. But I figured they knew what they were doing; takes a while to get confident enough to request some things.

 

Of course I am supposed to be practicing with the camera; and in a great spot to do with all the birds abound so...

pressure is on!

 

Sorry you left, but seems there is always a next around the corner!

[michael-ibk]

End of this safari, and end of this trip report. But not the end of my relationship with Kenya, that´s for sure. Just loved it, especially the diversity of landscapes and animals we enjoyed on this trip. I want to go back to do Meru properly, to see even more Northern species someplace like Samburu, see Flamingos somewhere like Lake Bogoria, explore more of the Aberdares, see Tsavo and Amboseli. And the Mara again of course, a place so jam-packed with wildlife it´s mind-boggling. I wish I could just pack my things and fly out tomorrow.

 

Sunworld did everything right, so I will use them again in the future without hesitation. Excellent value for money and - even more important - reliable car and fantastic guide!

 

Thanks everyone for reading alone, "liking" and commenting, as always I´ve enjoyed writing this.

 

The End.

 

But not without a little coda. Every mammal species seen on this trip:

 

Guereza Colobus (Colobus guereza)

 

 

Olive Baboon (Papio Anubis)

 

 

Syke´s Monkey (Cercopithecus albogularis)

 

 

Vervet Monkey (Cercopithecus pygerythrus)

 

 

Unstriped Ground Squirrel (Xerus rutilus)

 

 

Black-Backed Jackal (Canis Mesomelas)

 

 

Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale Parvula)

 

 

Banded Mongoose (Mungos mungo)

 

 

Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta)

 

 

Blotched Genet (Genetta tigrina)

 

 

Serval Cat (Felis serval)

 

 

Leopard (Panthera pardus)

 

 

Lion (Panthera leo)

 

 

Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatus)

 

 

African Elephant (Loxodonta africana)

 

 

Common Zebra (Equus quagga)

 

 

Grevy´s Zebra (Equus grevyi)

 

 

Black Rhinoceros (Diceros bicornis)

 

 

White Rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum)

 

 

Hippopotamus (Hippopotamus amphibius)

 

 

Giant Forest Hog (Hylochoerus meinertzhageni)

 

 

Common Warthog (Phacochoerus africanus)

 

 

Reticulated Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata)

 

 

Rothschild´s Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi)

 

 

Masai Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis tippelskirchi)

 

 

African Buffalo (Syncerus caffer)

 

 

Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus)

 

 

Lesser Kudu (Tragelaphus imberbis)

 

 

Eland (Taurotragus oryx)

 

 

Kirk´s Dikdik (Madoqua kirkii)

 

 

Bohor Reedbuck (Redunca redunca)

 

 

Common Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsyprymnus ellipsiprymnus)

 

 

Defassa Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsyprymnus defassa)

 

 

Thomson´s Gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii)

 

 

Grant´s Gazelle (Nanger granti)

 

 

 

Gerenuk (Litocranius walleri)

 

 

Impala (Aepyceros melampus)

 

 

Topi (Damaliscus korrigum jimela)

 

 

Coke´s Hartebeest (Alelaphus buselaphus cokii)

 

 

White-Bearded Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus albojubatus)

 

 

Beisa Oryx (Oryx beisa beisa)

 

[Atravelynn]

First the cheetah and then the lion with their kills. The cheetah did look proud of her work, as if she was showing it off. You were perfectly positioned for both of those pictures.

 

"Perhaps she just wanted to have a quiet place, protection against hyenas" I wondered why the lioness would bring the warthog back to the pride. Certainly not enough for all to have a bite. Hyena protection is a good theory.

 

Those rolly poly cubs are so cute.

 

I ended with your gorgeous bright red sunset shot. Ostrich and is it topi?

Edited December 15, 2014 by Atravelynn

[Treepol]

@@michael-ibk I have thoroughly enjoyed your TR, thanks for taking the time to post in such detail.

 

What a lovely idea to finish with a photo of every mammal species seen, I like the banded mongoose.

[Bush dog]

@@michael-ibk

 

Indeed, nice idea to end with an inventory of all the species seen during this very diversified trip, in terms of species, places and sightings. Very enjoyable report!

[michael-ibk]

Thanks a lot, @@graceland , @@Atravelynn (yes, it's Topi) , @@Treepol and @@Bush dog .

[SafariChick]

I love the wrap up with a photo of every mammal species you saw - that was awesome! Super report - thank you!