Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[michael-ibk]

Love seeing Murera Springs Eco Lodge again, was there last September.

[Tom Kellie]

Halcyon leucocephala on a Drizzling Morning

A twisted, bumpy track leads up from the low-lying Murera Springs Eco Lodge

to the road culminating in the Murera Gate of Meru National Park. Cornfields

and small groves of trees and bushes line the road. It was drizzling on the

first morning at Meru. A wet Halcyon leucocephala, Grey-headed Kingfisher,

perched atop a post. The 400mm super telephoto lens made

a pair of images of exceptional detail.

Avian Stylite

Grey-headed Kingfisher on a Post by a Cornfield

Inquisitive Stance

Halcyon leucocephala on a Drizzling Morning

[Tom Kellie]

Meru National Park

The Murera Gate of Meru National Park

Despite the overcast, drizzling conditions, one couldn't help but grin

upon arrival at the Murera Gate of Meru National Park. The park is

operated as a model park to train Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) staff,

thus the facilities and signage are well-maintained. A cast metal

statue of an African Buffalo honors the members of KWS.

Meru National Park

High Fire Danger

I Am A Game Warden

Entrance Signs for Arriving Visitors

Used for Training KWS Staff

View from the Entrance towards the Community

Murera Gate

Kenya Wildlife Service — World Class Parks!

Customer Feedback

Honoring the Kenya Wildlife Service

[Tom Kellie]

Love seeing Murera Springs Eco Lodge again, was there last September.

 

~ @michael-ibk:

 

That's TERRIFIC!

I'd wondered if any Safaritalk members had enjoyed a stay at the Murera Springs Eco Lodge.

Obviously I'd not yet had the pleasure of reading through your recent ‘From Meru to Mara’ trip report, or I'd have seen your images of the Murera Springs Eco Lodge.

I first stayed there on 29 and 30 September, 2014, later in the month from your visit.

The visit in this trip report was my 2nd stay, and I hope not my last one.

I'm delighted that you've also enjoyed their hospitality.

Thank you so much for telling me.

Tom K.

[michael-ibk]

Well, we missed each other for just a few weeks - damn! Next time.

 

Really liked it, and would certainly like to return. Looking forward to your Meru experiences.

[Tom Kellie]

Papio anubis Eating Acacia Flowers

The first sighting on the initial game drive in Meru National Park was of a small

group of Papio anubis, Olive Baboon. Those seated beside the road were

observing a swallow flying between tall wildflowers near them. Others were

in an acacia full of white flowers. Their fastidious selection of blooms to eat

reminded me of myself selecting vegetables in a supermarket produce section.

Baboons Observing a Swallow

In the Land of the Acacia-Eaters

Fastidious Eater

From One Branch to Another

Agile Climber

Selecting Dainties

[Tom Kellie]

Initial Game Drive Sightings

The morning began misty, with acceptable nearby visibility fading into grey formlessness.

There were bright yellow wildflowers, Polyboroides typus, African Harrier-Hawk,

overhead, zebras, Grant's gazelle, a male waterbuck and gerenuks. My second

visit to Meru National Park, the ever-so-enchanted feeling of the

first visit recurred. How glad I felt to be back!

Kobus ellipsiprymnus in Meru National Park

Yellow Blooms on a Spike

Polyboroides typus

Polyboroides typus in Flight

Gazella granti on a Misty Meru Morning

Enter the Zebras!

Meru Gerenuks on a Saturday Morning

[nhanq]

 

Papio anubis Eating Acacia Flowers

Yes, even baboons are interesting in Meru.. Anyone noticed any "hybrid" baboons?

"There is a GRADUAL gradation from ‘olive baboon’ to ‘yellow baboon’ raises serious questions as concerns the validity of the species Papio anubis and Papio cynocephalus. ‘Olive baboons’ of Meru NP exhibit some of the pelage traits of yellow baboon, and that the ‘yellow baboons’ in Kora NP and Mwingi NR [on the other side of Tana River] exhibit some of the pelage traits of olive baboon" according to a recent study by National Geographic.

See http://voices.nationalgeographic.com/2014/08/01/warthogs-and-primates-in-the-meru-conservation-area-central-kenya-and-the-decline-of-kora-national-park/

[Tom Kellie]

Circus aeruginosus with Falco naumanni

When I spotted this unusual sight, I asked Anthony to stop. In a tall snag

two raptors were on adjacent broken branches — Circus aeruginosus,

Eurasian Marsh Harrier and Falco naumanni, Lesser Kestrel. They

preened and fluffed their plumage in the light drizzle, neither

one budging from their respective perches.

Circus aeruginosus and Falco naumanni

Two Raptor Species, One Tree

Raptor Tree

[Tom Kellie]

 

 

Papio anubis Eating Acacia Flowers

Yes, even baboons are interesting in Meru.. Anyone noticed any "hybrid" baboons?

"There is a GRADUAL gradation from ‘olive baboon’ to ‘yellow baboon’ raises serious questions as concerns the validity of the species Papio anubis and Papio cynocephalus. ‘Olive baboons’ of Meru NP exhibit some of the pelage traits of yellow baboon, and that the ‘yellow baboons’ in Kora NP and Mwingi NR [on the other side of Tana River] exhibit some of the pelage traits of olive baboon" according to a recent study by National Geographic.

See http://voices.nationalgeographic.com/2014/08/01/warthogs-and-primates-in-the-meru-conservation-area-central-kenya-and-the-decline-of-kora-national-park/

 

 

~ @nhanq:

 

Thank you for your well-informed comment and link.

That's a useful insight about which I was ignorant.

Many thanks!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Assorted Smaller Birds During the Morning Game Drive

Most of the land through which we passed was fairly flat grassland.

Here and there small bushes or dead snags had smaller bird species

which we observed. In addition to a roller drying its plumage, there

were Amadina fasciata, Cut-throat Finch, Lanius dorsalis, Taita Fiscal,

Mirafra poecilosterna, Pink-breasted Lark and ​Passer eminbey,

Chestnut Sparrow. The game drive was cheerful with

such a rich variety of birds to enjoy.

Wet Roller

Roller Perch

Weaver Nests Without Tenants

Amadina fasciata

Lanius dorsalis

Mirafra poecilosterna

Passer eminibey

[Tom Kellie]

Panthera leo in the Grass

With no change in voice, Anthony softly said to us, “See the lions?”,

pointing to the right of the safari van. At first the pair of Panthera leo

were imperceptible. How was it possible to spot two carnivores at rest

in distant grass? After finally spotting them, it was a surprise to note

how near they were to the airstrip. The only other signs of life were

swallows flying low towards the lions, unintimidated thanks to their

superb flying skills. These were not at all the final big cats that

we'd observe in the safari, but they were the only cats

that we'd encounter in Meru National Park.

In the Dry Grass

Who's Watching Who?

Mamas, Don't Let Your Babies Wander Around the Airstrip

Swallows Need Not Fear Lions

[Marks]

Great updates as usual, Tom. I enjoyed the collection of weaver nests in particular. There's a certain whimsy to that scene.

[Tom Kellie]

Great updates as usual, Tom. I enjoyed the collection of weaver nests in particular. There's a certain whimsy to that scene.

 

~ @Marks:

 

Thank you very much!

Those weaver nests do have that je ne sais quoi insouciance about them.

I'll leave for the airport in less than one hour, thus this trip report will continue after I return from Kenya.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

~ I'm writing this from the Sirona Hotel in Nairobi. I've just had a very pleasant meeting with Anthony GITAU and his wife, Maggie.

 

Tomorrow morning I'm bound for a safari in Masai Mara to see how it looks after heavy rains with much growth.

 

Very thrilled to be here!

 

Tom K.

[michael-ibk]

You´re thrilled, we´re jealous.

[graceland]

@TomKellie, enjoy your time with Anthony! We are jealous, yes...but look forward to some amazing pictorials!

[Tom Kellie]

You´re thrilled, we´re jealous.

~ @michael-ibk:

 

Thank you SO MUCH!

 

I'm seated by a warm fire in the lounge of the Mara Sopa Lodge, counting my blessings.

 

Tom K.

 

[Tom Kellie]

@TomKellie, enjoy your time with Anthony! We are jealous, yes...but look forward to some amazing pictorials!

~ @graceland:

 

You're so kind! I'll tell Anthony your warm thoughts tomorrow morning.

 

I almost never touch alcohol, but tonight I'm savoring my favorite in Kenya - South African Fish Hoek rose.

 

The evening game drive was a marvel. Much to tell. I'm certainly thinking of you and the loyal Safaritalkers.

 

Tom K.

 

[Tom Kellie]

 

"Moon Over Mara"

 

Photographed on 2 May, 2015, at 5:48 pm in Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya with an EOS 1D Mark IV camera and an EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II super telephoto lens.

 

************************************************************

 

~ When life is good on safari, which seems to be nearly every game drive, it's VERY GOOD!

 

This first day of the mini-safari to Masai Mara began with a pleasant drive from Nairobi, Anthony talking little, enjoying much. After check-in at the Mara Sopa Lodge and a delightful lunch of duck a l'orange, there was an evening game drive.

 

Almost no other vehicles seen. Immense white cumulus clouds and thunderheads drifted over with light zephyrs riffling the verdant grass. Mara is EMERALD GREEN !!! Utter pleasure riding around at an easy pace, warmly courteous to other visitors and wildlife alike. As ever, Anthony the easygoing, highly popular with other drivers and reserve staff, master of the bounteous game drive.

 

As tomorrow is our all-day game drive, this evening was an amuse bouche to whet the appetite. Dinner afterwards was tomato soup, lamb stew, tea pannacotta, with the Fish Hoek rose. The few other tables consist of small groups from India, Kenya, China, Spain and Luxembourg. Yours truly the lone Hawaii representative. The Mara Sopa staff gracious and accommodating, recalling my preferences from a stay as their guest last August.

 

Oh, yes, the species observed and photographed today. Following a few highlights:

 

Elephants, Lions, Hippos, African Buffalo, Mongoose, Rock Hyrax, Syke's Monkey, Rat, Tree Squirrel, Warthog, Spotted Hyena, Grant's Gazelle, Giraffe, Olive Baboon, Vervet Monkey, Sunbird, Eagle, Bee-eater, Hamerkop, Crowned Crane, Vulture, Bustard, Starling.

 

As @@Safaridude informed me that vultures are endangered, extra effort was made to photograph several vulture species at a kill, with satisfactory results.

 

To add a touch of the sublime, a nearly full moon lavishly shining its silvery face over Mara.

 

With Much Happiness,

 

Tom K.

Edited May 2, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Geoff]

Enjoy your safari Tom. Suggest you immerse yourself in Africa at this time and not ST. ST will be waiting when you get back home.

[Tom Kellie]

Enjoy your safari Tom. Suggest you immerse yourself in Africa at this time and not ST. ST will be waiting when you get back home.

~ @Geoff:

 

Thank you for your kind suggestion!

 

The happiness of being here is so great that I'm unable to resist sharing a bit.

 

All continues to go very well.

 

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

~ This has been quite a day.

 

21 lions, 3 cheetahs, 1 leopard, plus numerous hippos, elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, a hyena, a jackal, warthogs, reedbucks, zebras, gazelles, topis, mongoose, vultures, secretary birds, whydahs, rollers, widowbirds, assorted raptors and a dikdik outside of the lodge room.

 

The profusion of different wildflower species has added delicate beauty to the diversity of wildlife observed.

 

Tomorrow afternoon will checkin at the Emakoko in Nairobi.

 

Anthony not only has been skilled at sightings and vehicle positioning to accommodate photography, but also rescued stranded guests from a broken down vehicle in a remote sector.

 

Tom K.

[Marks]

Green indeed! Glad you are having a great time.

[armchair bushman]

 

 

 

Papio anubis Eating Acacia Flowers

Yes, even baboons are interesting in Meru.. Anyone noticed any "hybrid" baboons?

"There is a GRADUAL gradation from ‘olive baboon’ to ‘yellow baboon’ raises serious questions as concerns the validity of the species Papio anubis and Papio cynocephalus. ‘Olive baboons’ of Meru NP exhibit some of the pelage traits of yellow baboon, and that the ‘yellow baboons’ in Kora NP and Mwingi NR [on the other side of Tana River] exhibit some of the pelage traits of olive baboon" according to a recent study by National Geographic.

See http://voices.nationalgeographic.com/2014/08/01/warthogs-and-primates-in-the-meru-conservation-area-central-kenya-and-the-decline-of-kora-national-park/

 

 

~ @nhanq:

 

Thank you for your well-informed comment and link.

That's a useful insight about which I was ignorant.

Many thanks!

Tom K

I believe some scientists still hold on to the idea that Yellow, Olive, and Chacma are all one species, Papio cynocephalus cynocephalus, P. c. anubis, and P. c. ursinus.

One of the more basic requirements for species separation used to be that members of two separate species cannot produce fertile offspring. The classic example is the offspring of a horse and a donkey, being a sterile mule (see also Common and Grevy's Zebra hybrids, which are believed to be sterile). Conversely, sub-species, despite some differences, can still produce fertile offspring - Kobus ellipsiprymnus ellipsiprymnus and K. e. defassa are a great example of this.

I suspect (although I have no scientific data to back this up) that Yellow and Olive baboon could produce fertile offspring. Whether that makes them one 'good' species or not is another topic.

 

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15085544 is the link to the abstract for this paper: http://biology.kenyon.edu/courses/biol241/baboon%20cladistics%20Newman%202004.pdf

Edited May 4, 2015 by armchair bushman