Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[pault]

Love the baboon family shot at the end of #404.... still have some catching up to do but that what jumped out at me.

[TonyQ]

It is wonderful to see a whole other world on such a small scale!

Edited May 18, 2015 by TonyQ

[madaboutcheetah]

Hi Tom,

Just catching up with the report - only upto page 16 ....... So far, loved your report of Tsavo West and Amboseli (I have never been to either, but, looks brilliant) - loved the Frog vs Ibis; Jackal vs Eagle; dogs ofcourse; Loved the landscapes in your images and the light in Amboseli looks amazing ..... Thank You for this report. Will have to catch up with further updates later in the week.

Regards

Hari

[Tom Kellie]

Love the baboon family shot at the end of #404.... still have some catching up to do but that what jumped out at me.

 

~ pault

 

Thank you very much!

That baboon encounter is one of two in 8 safaris which indelibly sticks out in my memory.

What I generally observe are baboon groups stretched out over land, or baboons up in trees with considerable foliage.

In this case the matriarch was ensconced in a prominent, somewhat vulnerable position with her brood and assorted hangers-on all about her.

The scene was sufficiently captivating that we sat there for two minutes watching them groom, scratch and interact with one another.

It was one of the many occasions wherein I felt admiration for baboon social interaction.

I'm so pleased that you liked the image.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

It is wonderful to see a whole other world on such a small scale!

 

~ @@TonyQ

 

It's the other side of safaris, isn't it?

Although yours truly has yet to go on a walking safari, I suppose that at such a pace and at such proximity the small scale world is more evident.

I'm especially fortunate in that my guide and friend, Anthony Gitau, is willing to regularly stop to photograph the small and out-of-the-way. He himself enjoys insect photography which means that we're well-matched.

Thank you so much for letting me know that you share my interest in the less prominent yet nonetheless fascinating safari organisms.

It's all life, hence all wondrous.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Just catching up with the report - only upto page 16 ....... So far, loved your report of Tsavo West and Amboseli (I have never been to either, but, looks brilliant) - loved the Frog vs Ibis; Jackal vs Eagle; dogs ofcourse; Loved the landscapes in your images and the light in Amboseli looks amazing ..... Thank You for this report. Will have to catch up with further updates later in the week.

 

~ @@madaboutcheetah

 

I'm honored that you've visited and expressed such generous support for the various segments.

Thank you very much for your kindness and thoughtfulness.

Both Tsavo West and Amboseli ‘vale la pena’, as the Spanish say, meaning that they're well worth the effort to visit.

The looming grandeur of Mt. Kilimanjaro attracts visitors to Amboseli, while Tsavo West is comparatively overlooked.

There's more yet to come in this trip report, both in Meru and Samburu.

I'm especially pleased to tell you that cheetah images will be featured, but not until towards the conclusion.

With Gratitude,

Tom K.

Edited May 18, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Atravelynn]

I've never seen such an aggressive look by a hyrax. Those teeth are formidable. Your scenery shots are as lovely as the animals interacting! In the contest between the Sony and Canon, I vote for the Sony!

 

Winnipeg, Manitoba Guest Enjoys Kilimanjaro Dawn--Your conversation probably did not meander around to those red-sided garter snakes up there.

 

"I'm seated by a warm fire in the lounge of the Mara Sopa Lodge, counting my blessings." That sunset photographed had to make the top 10 of those blessings.

 

Moon Over Mara is my stopping point for now. Wonderful shot.

 

You've had so many wonderful shots of wonderful sightings!

Edited May 18, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Tom Kellie]

Reticulated Giraffe Mother and Calf

We entered the Meru National Park Rhino Sanctuary in late morning, after completing the sign-in

formalities at the well-guarded entrance. After driving for about five minutes we encountered a

female Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata, Reticulated Giraffe, standing stock-still in the red

laterite earth track...except she wasn't alone. Directly behind her was a calf. The mother soon

walked off into the trees, leaving behind the calf who exhibited a tenuous curiosity about our

presence before departing after its mother. Rare moments like this, in the setting of unspoiled

Meru's forested zone, are what draws me back to Kenya time and again — not to

mention the pleasure I take in the beauty of any Reticulated Giraffe.

Rhino Sanctuary Circuit

Mother Giraffe with Calf Behind Her

Someone's Behind Mom

Reticulated Giraffe Mother and Calf

Standoff

Turning to Follow Mom

Lingering Curiosity

Leaving the Track

Young Giraffe Heading Into the Trees

[Tom Kellie]

I've never seen such an aggressive look by a hyrax. Those teeth are formidable. Your scenery shots are as lovely as the animals interacting! In the contest between the Sony and Canon, I vote for the Sony!

 

Winnipeg, Manitoba Guest Enjoys Kilimanjaro Dawn--Your conversation probably did not meander around to those red-sided garter snakes up there.

 

"I'm seated by a warm fire in the lounge of the Mara Sopa Lodge, counting my blessings." That sunset photographed had to make the top 10 of those blessings.

 

Moon Over Mara is my stopping point for now. Wonderful shot.

 

You've had so many wonderful shots of wonderful sightings!

 

~ @@Atravelynn

 

Thank you so much for honoring my trip report with a visit.

As you've both read and written numerous trip reports, your very kind comments mean a lot to me.

Who knew that hyrax were capable of such a formidable display?

Your encouragement for including landscape shots is reassuring, as I sometimes wonder if anyone is interested in such. My original intent has been to establish ecological context by showing the surrounding landscape, as well as to share the beauty with both would-be visitors and those with memories of past visits.

The Sony RX1 R camera is a honey! Easy to use, well-engineered, reliable. The larger Canon camera and the super-telephoto lens are old friends and have worked well with me.

The secret is that I love my five manual focus Zeiss lenses most of all, and future trip reports will showcase their results. On this particular safari the Zeiss Apo-Sonnar T* 135mm f/2 ZE lens yielded satisfactory images of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

The Winnipeg ladies were especially considerate and gracious, which invariably wins my admiration.

The sunset was indeed a knockout. This month's Masai Mara safari — as will be described in a future trip report — was characterized by uncrowded game drives, stellar sightings and dramatic morning and evening skies.

I'm delighted that you liked ‘Moon Over Mara’ as that's one of own favorite images, despite nary a creature in view.

My 8 Kenya safaris have all been blessed as a result of the skills and modesty of Anthony Gitau, my guide and partner in seeking out ever-better shooting angles in the field.

Thank you so much for your visit. There's much more yet to come in Meru, as well as a very fine Samburu visit.

I have so much more of your own trip reports yet to read, as time permits. Your lively, fact-based commentary and photographs are an ongoing inspiration.

With Gratitude,

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Grazing Ceratotherium simum

We slowly wended our way through fairly tall grass when several dark shapes appeared, larger, with a different

profile than African Buffalo. I quietly asked Anthony to back up a bit, as I saw them from my standing

vantage point while his view was obscured by the grass. It was a trio of Ceratotherium simum, White

Rhinoceros. XU Ni was delighted to have seen the Big 5, so there was whispered congratulations

all around. In each of the past four safaris I've photographed rhinos, but the nearest one in this

group was especially large. Parked to watch them grazing, it was a special moment for Anthony

from Kenya, Ni from China and an American. Rhinos are everyone's heritage

which is why conservation education for children is essential.

Grazing White Rhino Trio

Ceratotherium simum's Alert Ears

Mouthful of Grass

A Grazer's Work Is Never Done

Unhurried Foraging in Meru

Grazing Ceratotherium simum with Purple Wildflowers

Nature's Whimsy

Meru Ceratotherium simum

[Atravelynn]

Love the baboon family shot at the end of #404.... still have some catching up to do but that what jumped out at me.

Me too. There was room for no more.

[Atravelynn]

From wabi-sabi to whirligig. And everything in between. Even a study in dragon flies!

 

Your big five was completed with a trio!

 

It is obvious your report is a true labor of love!

[twaffle]

Very taken with the Odonata images. I think that they are quite tricky to photograph nicely, well at least I find them difficult!

[Tom Kellie]

 

Love the baboon family shot at the end of #404.... still have some catching up to do but that what jumped out at me.

Me too. There was room for no more.

 

~ @@Atravelynn

 

It was the epitome of the term ‘piling on’.

That matriarch reacted to it all with measured calm, no doubt refined through years of experience.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

From wabi-sabi to whirligig. And everything in between. Even a study in dragon flies!

 

Your big five was completed with a trio!

 

It is obvious your report is a true labor of love!

 

~ @@Atravelynn

 

Your generous encouragement certainly makes any effort more than worth it.

One seeks to portray the full range of a safari. The scents, sounds and tactility may be absent, thus extra care is concentrated of visuals to enable would-be safari-goers to develop their own sense of the overall experience.

For all of us fortunate to have been on many safaris, we've stored a range of sensations, vivid memories of which are triggered by a single well-chosen image.

For Safaritalk visitors dreaming about and planning their own initial foray into the savanna, a varied selection of images raises their expectations of what a safari might be, i.e. a cornucopia of wildlife sightings, from the great to the small.

Happily, there much yet to come in this trip report, including a fairly dramatic dénouement in Samburu.

Thank you so much for taking time to visit this trip report.

With Happiness,

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Very taken with the Odonata images. I think that they are quite tricky to photograph nicely, well at least I find them difficult!

 

~ @@twaffle

 

I'm with you on the devilish challenge of obtaining satisfactory Odonata images.

Their size, visual complexity, morphological intricacy and tendency to fly off all impede smooth portraiture of their elegance.

I'm flattered and honored that you responded positively to the sampler, as that's one of my own favorite sets.

It's in a very special little corner of Meru, to which I sometimes daydream of returning, as they're likely there, lovely as ever.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Young Ceratotherium simum with Birds

After leaving the three grazing Ceratotherium simum, we drove for five minutes when

an African Buffalo herd appeared on our left. I asked Anthony if the two larger animals

were a Ceratotherium simum mother and calf which he confirmed. Within 30 minutes

five rhinoceros at fairly close range. The calf stood near but apart from its mother, with

a Cattle Egret on it and oxpeckers. In a panorama image a single Motacilla flava,

Yellow Wagtail, is flying to the right. Observing the calf so near our position,

without any other visitors, was a precious experience.

Rhino & Bird Panorama

Young Rhino and Avian Friends

Ceratotherium simum with Birds

[Tom Kellie]

Ceratotherium simum Mother and Calf

The Ceratotherium simum, White Rhinoceros, mother and calf we observed were relatively easygoing and

laid-back, with no overt signs of anxiety or stress. They were grazing beside a small herd of Syncerus

caffer, African Buffalo, who were more interested in our presence than the two rhinos. The mother

rhino's front horn was split. She was watchful of her calf who was watchful of us. The minutes

observing them were silent, a gentle breeze rustling foliage and occasional bird calls the only

sounds. The more opportunities I have to observe rhinos, the less outlandish their

shape seems. Do they feel the same about us?

Two Eyes, Two Rhinos

Mother and Calf from Behind

Onlookers

Mother and Calf Panorama

Young White Rhinoceros

Ceratotherium simum Calf with Mother

Mildly Curious Young White Rhino

Mother Rhino Watching Out for Her Calf

Young Ceratotherium simum Profile

Ears Forward

[Tom Kellie]

Coracias garrulus with a Grasshopper

After leaving the Ceratotherium simum mother and calf our track led to a drier, more arid

section outside of the Rhino Sanctuary. This Coracias garrulus, European Roller, atop

a flat-topped wooden fencepost had a grasshopper in its bill, before flying elsewhere to

consume it. As an elementary school pupil I had an affinity for grasshoppers, being

fascinated by their intricate patterning and powerful jumping ability. That persists

to this day, as a twinge of regret at the hapless grasshopper's fate involuntarily

passed through me, despite realizing that a roller needs to eat to survive.

Coracias garrulus with a Grasshopper

Hapless Grasshopper as Prey

Departing Coracias garrulus

[Tom Kellie]

Struthio molybdophanes

A distinctive species of Meru and Samburu is Struthio molybdophanes, Somali Ostrich. Passing through

an arid section of Meru, these four Somali Ostriches were walking along the track, eating tidbits

as they went. One of the two males was dominant, keeping a close watch on the other three

and on us. The ostriches sauntered before walking off into the grass. The distinctive

blue-grey coloration of the male skin unmistakable against the bright grass stalks.

Road Ostriches

Eat As You Go

Somali Ostrich Standing Guard

Male Struthio molybdophanes

Female Struthio molybdophanes

[Tom Kellie]

Waterbuck by a Stream

A small stream — less than a full-fledged river — flowed through the arid region. A small

group of Kobus ellipsiprymnus, Common Waterbuck, was walking toward the stream as we

arrived. Their hooves splashed in the flowing stream during their crossing. They looked back

at us, their thoughts and perceptions as opaque to us as ours to them.

Where is Dr. Dolittle when he's needed?

Pausing at the Streambank

Wading Across

By a Small Stream

Woodland Waterbuck

[Tom Kellie]

Lanius isabellinus

Our wide circuit through Meru National Park led past the outer perimeter fence of the Rhino Sanctuary.

The track was dusty, the midday sunlight bright, the temperatures substantially higher than the misty

morning when we initially entered. Anthony gently stopped when I asked to photograph this

Lanius isabellinus, Isabelline Shrike. It was an especially alert bird, eying us up and down.

The bright eyes and energy of shrikes appeals to me, suggesting keen intelligence.

Lanius isabellinus

Isabelline Shrike

[Tom Kellie]

Flowers, Insects and Weaver Nests

Between major bird or mammal sightings a game drive passes through landscape with beauty

in various forms. These images show acacia and hibiscus blowers, beetles, an ant, a female

Chlorocypha sp. damselfly, and clusters of abandoned weaver nests. In contrast to Mars, the

Moon or an asteroid, terrestrial life shaped through natural selection takes on any form, any

pattern, any color which facilitates growth and reproduction. The blue-black ant on the pale

yellow hibiscus was photographed with a super-telephoto lens, which captured the ant's right eye.

Beetles on a White Wildflower

Clustered Acacia Blooms

Abandoned Weaver Nests

Weaver Nest Trees

Blue-black Ant on a Pale Yellow Hibiscus

Chlorocypha sp. Female

[Tom Kellie]

Ploceus bojeri

When I first visited Meru National Park on 1 October, 2014, I spotted and photographed

Ploceus bojeri, Golden Palm Weaver, in large bushes beside the rugged road leading

down to the Murera Springs Eco Lodge. On this occasion we once again had parked

midstream in a shallow brook, looking for any species living there. Ploceus bojeri was

readily spotted due to its vivid, saturated hue plumage. We stayed several minutes, during

which it was an enjoyable challenge to photograph the small bird flitting around in the

shade of stream-side vegetation. Such is life at midday on a game drive!

Ploceus bojeri in Shade

Ploceus bojeri in a Stream-side Bush

Palm Foliage and Ploceus bojeri

Golden Palm Weaver Ventral Plumage

[Tom Kellie]

Meru Hippo Pool

Entirely unexpected was a visit to the Meru Hippo Pool. As I'd never heard of it, it was a

pleasant surprise to step out of the safari van to walk down to the pool. A young British

couple was there, observing hippo behavior throughout the day. They were staying in a

tent for months, and rarely saw others. I admired their scientific outlook, good humor and

dedication to wildlife observation. A baby hippo was supported by adults on the water

surface. Filtered midday light coming through foliage caused sharply etched shadows

on the hippos. Altogether a delightful experience — highly recommended!

Hippopotamus Sign

Hippo Pool Sign

Meru Hippo Pool

Hippopotamus amphibius

A Small Splash

The Comfort of Buoyancy

Texture

Wrinkles, Folds, Creases

Hippos! Hippos! Hippos!

Kiboko

Support Network

Walking in the Hippo Pool

Young Hippo on the Surface

Hippo Babies Go With the Flow