UGANDA 2020 - A TALE OF 7 SPECIALS

[kittykat23uk]

Here's a video with a few highlights.

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2020 by kittykat23uk

[Chakra]

On 4/2/2020 at 11:43 PM, xelas said:

 

We have been greeted by smiling staff and lodge manager. After seeing all those ladies carrying all kind of goods on their heads, I have had to try it also myself.

 

 

 

 

 

What a fast learner you are Amigo @xelas  

 

I know you are restless to travel to India. Seeing your proficiency in carrying loads on your balding crown, I strongly recommend a visit to the villages of Rajasthan.  You still got a long way to go to catch up with these ladies walking through the Desert National park. The reward ? A glimpse of the Great Indian Bustard !! 

 

 

 

OK. That  is obviously photoshopped but I have seen ladies carrying upto five pots with my own eyes. 

 

And once you are deemed to be safe with pots then I can graduate you to carry the Gods 

 

 

 

Nice to see the famed Broadbill camp. Many moons back I was having a brief exchange with the Master about a trip to Uganda. Broadbill was mentioned several times.  Great job, but is it losing its charm from another lodge being built close to it ? 

 

Duiker or Triker or Quadruker :  I don't really care.  But what a stunning collection of chameleons ! Top notch shots as well.

 

Keep going till July please ! 

Edited April 5, 2020 by Chakra

[xelas]

43 minutes ago, Chakra said:

Seeing your proficiency in carrying loads on your balding crown,

 

My crown is not balding , mi amigo. About my proficiency, I did used my otherwise useless left hand to help balancing the damn suitcase .

 

Don't worry about that other lodge. The lush vegetation will not allow you to see it or to hear it. So, when are we going to Uganda (and to India) ?

[kittykat23uk]

24 February 2020

 

Time to leave Ruhija behind and make our way to the next stop. I'll let @xelas continue the story, so for now just a few birds before we left Ruhija area.

 

P2240003 (2) Grey-throated Barbet (Gymnobucco bonapartei) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240013 Grey-throated Barbet (Gymnobucco bonapartei) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240021 Black Saw-wing (Psalidoprocne pristoptera) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240028 Wasp nest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240037 common buzzard (Buteo buteo) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240072 common buzzard (Buteo buteo) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240180 Variable Sunbird (Cinnyris venustus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

On our way we finally got some amazing views of Uganda's National bird

 

P2240444 Grey Crowned-crane (Balearica regulorum) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Edited April 5, 2020 by kittykat23uk

[TonyQ]

A wonderful collection of birds, monkeys and a stunning Chameleon.

Excellent photos from all contributors!

[Galana]

2 hours ago, Chakra said:

Broadbill was mentioned several times.  Great job, but is it losing its charm from another lodge being built close to it ? 

Not really. The lodge was being built when I was there in September 2017 and I was invited to inspect it. It was still 'work in progress' in December 2018 and does not appear to have moved on much since then. It is far enough away not to have any visual or noise impact on Broadbill and is set to one side of the common access road/track. It is the 'constant ' construction traffic that is currently impacting on the road when wet.

When or if it opens the problem may be some passing traffic along the road from the  junction to the lodge which may disturb Broadbill guests engaged in birding the same track but after dark the local Forest elephants, who are not as placid or friendly as their Savannah cousins, will deal with that.

 

I smiled at reading Jo's script of our encounter.

"We ourselves had an rather heated encounter with another larger vehicle, that was blocking our way into the lodge.  Emmy finally managed to "persuade" them to give way to us, but not without a very lengthy discourse"

 

They refused to back up and we could not so there was a bit of a standoff to put it mildly. In the end Emmy told them he/we were going leave the Land Cruiser and walk the rest of the way home so they should prepare to spend the night in their truck. They thought he was bluffing until we commenced closing up the open hatches and windows to secure the car. Then suddenly they found their truck did have  a reverse gear after all.

[xelas]

Jo has posted a sort of a trailer already so time to move on.

[xelas]

THE KIGEZI HIGHLANDS / 24^th– 26^thFeb

 

 

While on the map the drive between Broadbill Forest Camp and Lake Mulehe Gorilla Lodge does not look like a full day drive, but ours was. But that is not a complaint. Just the opposite.

 

 

We have started at around 9:00 in the morning, and Emmy took us down the mountain the opposite direction to where we came up. Road was about the same, narrow and gravel, and lined by fields on both sides. Lower toward the valley we arrived more the fields and houses we have encountered.  

 

 

 

 

 

After 1 ½ hrs we have reached the Kabale – Kisoro road. After 7 days we have were on tarmac again. Driving speed increased, and with it the quality of photos decreased. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2020 by xelas

[xelas]

Our next stop was, believe it or not, yet another swamp. But before we have had a couple of “birding pit stops”.

 

COMMON BUZZARD

 

VARIABLE SUNBIRD

 

GREY CROWNED CRANE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grey Crowned Crane is the official bird of Uganda so it deserves more photos.

Edited April 6, 2020 by xelas

[xelas]

Fred had high hopes for birding at Ruhuma swamp, and to find a rarity there. Unfortunately for him, and us, soon after we have reached the place (at 11:30) it has started to rain. And the swamp was anyway under the water so we could not use the walkway. There was a boatman but none of us was willing to take the chance with the rain. Yet we have had some sightings despite the bad conditions. And we have had our box brunch.

 

 

 

 

YELLOW-BACKED WEAVER

 

AFRICAN STONECHAT

 

[xelas]

The rain intensified so no more stops until we have reached Lake Bunyonyi. It has an interesting history, and is believed to be the second deepest lake in Africa. We did not tried to bust that myth, but we did stop at Heritage Camp at Muko, for much needed toilet and coffee. It was just past midday.

 

 

 

 

It was still raining, and Emmy has had no intention to start driving while it rained (or so was my interpretation), and since the whole area is good for birding, why not use that extra time for something good?! 

 

MISERABLE-WET SUNBIRD

 

DRENCHED WAGTAIL

 

 

ANGRY-EYED SLATY-FLYCATCHE

 

RAINED SANDPIPER

 

BAD-HAIR-DAY HAMERKOP

 

SHOWERED MOUSEBIRD

 

 

And hour later, rain finally stopped, and we were ready to move on. Just not before a few more photos and birds.

 

 

 

BLACK CRAKE

 

GREY-CAPPED WARBLER

 

Also these guys were glad that the rain has stopped. An obligatory stop for a view over the Lake Bunyonyi with mandatory presence of local kids.

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

Of course, Emmy never missed a chance to chase a rare bird thus several more birding pit stops were on our itinerary.

 

MOUNTAIN BUZZARD

 

SHARPE’S STARLING

 

STREAKY SEEDEATER

 

MOUNTAIN GREENBUL

 

ARCHER’S ROBIN-CHAT

 

[xelas]

It was close to 16:00 when we have arrived at Kanaba Pass, another must stop with great views over distant volcanoes. @Galana will have more to say and show about them. I have only remembered some funny names like The Signpost or The Old Man Teeth.

 

 

 

 

 

While we have admiring the views, a group of locals has approached our vehicle. Emmy came to meet the elders, and soon they were happy to be photographed. They are BaTwa, a tribe that has a sad history as they have lived in forests oF Bwindi until it became a National Park, and they have had to move out. Fred has already explained much more to the story of BaTwa people in the post #425. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They were all moving fast after the elder to whom Fred gave something for which they will surely remember him as Papa Fred .

[xelas]

And on the road again. While there are buses in Uganda, riding a truck is also a popular option. Safety? No one cares.

 

 

 

 

 

One more photo of the volcanoes before entering the town of Kisoro. And there is a story to be told. As you can see from the below map, we did a trip around the airport. Stupid, eh, since the road goes straight through it. Well, the road is shown on the map, but the gates are not! Yes, there are gates to prevent traffic to drive through the airport landing area. No sweat. There are other airports in the world, that has the same situation. Like the one between Spain and Gibraltar. Only that this specific airport/gates are unmanned; they are permanently closed! My first reaction was who was the genius to build the airport right over the main road. Well, it was the main road that was built after the airport!!! Only in Africa.

 

 

Quarter to six (17:45) we have entered the busy town of Kisoro. The fact that it was a market day did not helped with traffic to be any less congested, or faster. But it was a colorful display of all things that are absolutely necessary to have … at least that was the sellers motto.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving Kisoro we have also left the tarmac behind, and were on some rough local roads again. It took Emmy another 90 minutes to reach our home for next two nights. Which will be described in next chapter. Timing: 09:00 - 18:30. Indeed a full day drive. Delicious, even with the rain. Oh, yes, another day another bulbul!

 

C’MON, BULBUL ??

 

Edited April 5, 2020 by xelas

[Galana]

Good to see you kept your sense of humour in the rain.

Excellent and humorous set of photos. Love the Cranes.

I did not know you had set up a studio at teh road junction though. You should do well.

 

Your map of the airport diversion is pure google.

We actually got to the gate, drove outside the Security fence (which was falling down in places) and  round the runway end and back to the tar road.

Thus.

The 'black' track is our return by the 'proper' road two days later.

[Galana]

42 minutes ago, xelas said:

@Galana will have more to say and show about them. I have only remembered some funny names like The Signpost or The Old Man Teeth. 

 

I think this is one of the finest views in Africa.  OK. Left to right (East to West)

Muhabura. (The signpost), Gahinga,  Sabyinyo, (the old man's teeth)  where the three countries meet and Bisoke. Hidden in this view is Karasimbi, behind Bisoke, where Dian Fossey and Digit lived and died.

Extreme right is the active volcano Nyiragongo which is the one we see at night from Ruhija as a red glow. The smoke plume is barely visible in this shot.

So here is one I prepared earlier.

 

[kittykat23uk]

A few additional shots covering this part of the trip. Firstly at Ruhuma swamp, before it started to piss it down:

 

P2240477 Common (African) Stonechat   Saxicola torquatus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240486 Common (African) Stonechat   Saxicola torquatus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240512 (3) Common (African) Stonechat   Saxicola torquatus by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240519 Chubb's Cisticola (Cisticola chubbi) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240528 black-headed weaver (Ploceus melanocephalus), also known as yellow-backed weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Despite the rain, when we reached Muko, I was delighted to see some more spotted-necked otters out in the lake, but unfortunately they didn't come close. Soptted-necked otters are the ones usually found in these lakes. 

 

P2240656  spotted-necked otter (Hydrictis maculicollis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

When the rain eased off the birds came out.

 

P2240717 Pied Crow (Corvus albus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Slender-billed Weaver (Ploceus pelzelni) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240815 (2) Red-chested Sunbird (Cinnyris erythrocercus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240837 (2) Grey-capped Warbler (Eminia lepida) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Soon it was time to move on, although we made frequent stops for spectacular views

 

IMG_20200224_142330 Lake Bunyoni by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240871 (2) Mountain Buzzard (Buteo oreophilus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2241081 Sharpe's Starling (Pholia sharpii) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had a two specials for the price of one deal when we stopped for an Archer's Robin Chat and picked up a White-starred Robin as well.

 

P2241213 Archer's Robin-chat (Dessonornis archeri) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2241250 White-starred Robin (Pogonocichla stellata) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200224_154822 The virungas by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

And then of course we met the Batwa people:

 

I

MG_20200224_155137 Batwa tribe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200224_155347 Batwa tribe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200224_155421  Batwa tribe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

I picked up a local snack, it was really delicious

 

IMG_20200224_160220 delicious sweetcorn snack by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2241319 butterfly by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Then we had another chance to see Rwenzori Apalis

 

P2241326 Rwenzori Apalis (Oreolais ruwenzorii) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

More spectacular views

 

IMG_20200224_171310 Virungas by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2241477 (2) Yellow Bishop (Euplectes capensis) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Life in the town of Kisoro

 

IMG_20200224_174907 Bananas! by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

IMG_20200224_175047 Ugandan fashion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2020 by kittykat23uk

[Galana]

2 hours ago, kittykat23uk said:

P2240738 African Golden Weaver (Ploceus subaureus) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

You must have been on a different sort of trip than us Jo.

[kittykat23uk]

17 minutes ago, Galana said:

You must have been on a different sort of trip than us Jo.

 

It's golden colored isn't it?! 

[Soukous]

On 4/5/2020 at 9:35 AM, kittykat23uk said:

plushy

 

plushy ?? 

[kittykat23uk]

3 minutes ago, Soukous said:

 

plushy ?? 

 

yes soft and fluffy..

[Soukous]

9 minutes ago, kittykat23uk said:

 

yes soft and fluffy..

 

Couldn't find it in my dictionary, but I can see how it works.

[Galana]

2 hours ago, kittykat23uk said:

It's golden colored isn't it?!

So is a Hamster but it ain't one of them either!

[kittykat23uk]

8 minutes ago, Galana said:

So is a Hamster but it ain't one of them either!

[Galana]

14 hours ago, xelas said:

The rain intensified so no more stops until we have reached Lake Bunyonyi. It has an interesting history, and is believed to be the second deepest lake in Africa. We did not tried to bust that myth,

Maybe a short diatribe on Lake Bunyonyi and the mythical depths it purports to have. It don't!  It's about 45 metres deep at its deepest point. There are many local folk tales about its  tremendous depth and they are liberally applied to other lakes in the region including the grassy hole which is all that remains of the original Lake Kigezi which gave its name in colonial times to the entire district. See above.

Lake Bunyonyi is only about 8000 years old and was formed when the river Ndego was blocked by a lava flow. The remains of the lava flow can be seen from the road as you approach the 'new' crossing at Muko (which is also the local d.y.i. car wash). The area of the flooded valley, now Lake Bunyonyi, "the place of the little birds", is about 60 sq. km. and the lake lies at an altitude of 1,840m. Lake Victoria a few hundred km to the east is only 1135m of altitude and despite her great area is no deeper than 82m anywhere.

You don't have to be an Einstein or Gregory to work out that Lake Bunyonyi simply cannot be 900 metres deep or where would the original river Ndego have joined whatever river system existed back then? Water does not flow uphill.

Just examine the course of the present day Ndego as it outflows and passes through Ruvumo swamps to eventually reach Lake Mutanda at 1,800 metres where it becomes a tributary of the Rutshuru that eventually enters Lake Edward and from there to the River Nile.

Having said all that, Lake Bunyonyi is  a very picturesque lake and very popular as a 'resort' for locals and overlanders alike. Clean and fresh water with good wildlife. Do visit if time permits. Lots of decent lodges.