Tiger Trifecta; Thirty Three sightings of Twenty Three Tigers in Ten and a half days

[Atravelynn]

50 minutes ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Lynn, I wonder if @johnweirwas in that vehicle with the Packers t shirt guy?   

Hey John,  were you wearing a Packers shirt?  As we passed one time I shouted at you or whoever that was, "Aaron Rodgers wants to be traded to the Jets."  You may have thought I was nuts.

 

 

[wilddog]

I do hope that people are reading Lynn's detailed reply on food, and toilets. 

 

I remember saying to Lynn we should call the TR 'Toilets we have Toured'..... But she was not keen.

As someone who is older and takes Blood Pressure meds,  my kidneys work hard first thing in the morning so I always advised our guide well ahead of any real urgency when that took effect. 

 

The 'Granola Bar Incident' was the source of much amusement and a bit of stress. We never did work out what had eaten it,  and chewed through the suitcase, when it came back for more. 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by wilddog

[wilddog]

Ah ha, yes. Packer T shirt Man, was that you @johnweir

 

 

[Atravelynn]

9 hours ago, wilddog said:

I do hope that people are reading Lynn's detailed reply on food, and toilets. 

 

I remember saying to Lynn we should call the TR 'Toilets we have Toured'..... But she was not keen.  It would have been more Ts in the title, I'll give you that!  Later in the report I'll repeat the toilet comments all in one place, right after The Adapter.

As someone who is older and takes Blood Pressure meds,  my kidneys work hard first thing in the morning so I always advised our guide well ahead of any real urgency when that took effect.   The bathroom stops seemed to work well from my perspective.  I do recall one time when we pulled into the toilet stop that there was a canter with dozens of people that had arrived before us.  Linda and I were advised to just walk behind the brick lavatory and use the ground if the line was too long and our need was too great.  Kaav, the property where we stayed in Kabini is sponsoring a new toilet at the toilet stop, to be used by everyone.

 

The 'Granola Bar Incident' was the source of much amusement and a bit of stress. We never did work out what had eaten it,  and chewed through the suitcase, when it came back for more.  I was mad I never got a sighting of the creature.  The one that got away.

 

 

 

[johnweir]

@wilddog, @AtravelynnI am not Packer T shirt man nor was he in our vehicle. It definitely wasn't me in what I am assuming was a Green Bay Packers T shirt, I tend to dress more appropriately for my wildlife adventures. Talking of toilets in Kabini I too used the open air gender inclusive/neutral option. The alternative was unthinkable.  I'll butt out now until you have finished. Looking forward to your narrative and images., 

[KaliCA]

Great information for me regarding toilets and food to bring along. Note to self: go buy TP at first stop. We are always bringing granola bars and will definitely store them in a tight-lidded container. And maybe we have to bring a bag to hang all medicines from the rafters or shower head, so critters can’t get to them. I have read a trip report where a German couple lost socks, shoelaces and part of a shoe to some big rat-like critter. Yew! Love critters but not in my room, please. 
Also, good to know that you can order Western Food in Restaurants. Our guide said he could call ahead with our wishes. Great news. 
Looking forward to lots of Tiger and other creatures pics. Plus more great anecdotes and information for novice India travelers like me. 
Greetings from Katrin

[Atravelynn]

3 hours ago, johnweir said:

@wilddog, @AtravelynnI am not Packer T shirt man nor was he in our vehicle. It definitely wasn't me in what I am assuming was a Green Bay Packers T shirt, I tend to dress more appropriately for my wildlife adventures. If "Packer Man" happens to be reading, I hope he does not take offense.  At least he was not wearing a cheesehead.   Talking of toilets in Kabini I too used the open air gender inclusive/neutral option. The alternative was unthinkable.  I'll butt out now until you have finished. Looking forward to your narrative and images., 

 

2 hours ago, KaliCA said:

Great information for me regarding toilets and food to bring along. Note to self: go buy TP at first stop. We are always bringing granola bars and will definitely store them in a tight-lidded container. And maybe we have to bring a bag to hang all medicines from the rafters or shower head, so critters can’t get to them. Good idea. I will be more careful in the future.  To date the only problem I ever had was my toothpaste was nibbled once. We are, after all, in those critters' environment.  I have read a trip report where a German couple lost socks, shoelaces and part of a shoe to some big rat-like critter. Yew!  Maybe the couple had stepped in something interesting that attracted the rat.  Love critters but not in my room, please. 
Also, good to know that you can order Western Food in Restaurants. Our guide said he could call ahead with our wishes. Great news. 
Looking forward to lots of Tiger and other creatures pics. Plus more great anecdotes and information for novice India travelers like me. 
Greetings from Katrin

 

Edited April 4, 2023 by Atravelynn

[wilddog]

So just to let you know how we plan to proceed with this TR........

1. Lynn will outline her travel to, and time in Delhi prior to us meeting up on the evening the 2nd March. Her post  is likely to be early next week.
2. We will then move on to the each park with our accommodation,, sightings, photographs and general information and anecdotes and then move to the next park. 
3. At the end of our report there will be some musings/thoughts on how we did things, the pros and cons, and general advice covering how we prepared, and things we learnt along the way; all of which may be useful to others.

Meanwhile we are sorting through our thousands of photographs in preparation for the main body of the report.

 

We hope you will think it is worth the wait. .

 There is so much to tell you and show you.

Edited April 4, 2023 by wilddog

[Atdahl]

Looking forward to this one...

[RC88COR]

On 3/31/2023 at 1:33 PM, wilddog said:

Hi, I am enjoying reading your TR.  It's similar to my tiger trip itinerary in March of 2018 which I planned myself.  I started with Tadoba, then Kanha, and on Holi travelled between Kanha to Bandavgarh. I did not Include Pench as there was not enough time. I focused on the 3 tiger reserves in central India and spent 5 days at each, doing AM and PM drives.

 

 

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

Adding a buffer day up front turned out to be an excellent decision.  My Air India flight was 15 hours late so I arrived in Delhi at 5 am on March 3 instead of 2 pm on March 2.  I had booked an outing to Sultanpur National Park in Delhi with a bird guide for 8:30 am on March 3, my spare day at the start of the trip.  Lucky for me my movie screen on the plane was dead, so all I could do on the 13-hour flight was sleep, meaning I was ready for my bird outing upon arrival.  Luckier for me, Bird Guide Sanjay Sharma had convinced the Sultanpur authorities to allow me into the park that was officially closed in order to prepare for the G-20 dignitaries who would be touring the next day.  Just the groundskeepers, who were busy sprucing up the place, and some university students shared the park with us.

 

Indian Spotbill Duck in Sultanpur

 

 

All that good luck was almost negated when I accidentally got into the wrong vehicle at the Pride Plaza Hotel that morning.  Wild World India had WhatsApp’d me the license plate and driver’s name, but in my jet lagged confusion I got into the wrong car that had arrived at exactly the right time, 8:30 am.  Fifteen minutes into our journey, we realized the error and did a U-turn, right when my phone rang.  It was Abhishek of WWI inquiring as to my whereabouts. 

Intermediate Heron in Sultanpur

 

We arrived back at Pride Plaza Hotel and the solo female traveler doing a cultural tour who was supposed to be in the vehicle I had “stolen” was able to embark.  Abhishek ushered me into the correct vehicle, placing me in the back seat and shutting the door to assure no further mishaps.  More good luck—it was a brand-new car and I was the first passenger! Getting any kind of car that day was a feat because with all the G-20 VIPs tooling around, cars were scarce. But WWI pulled it off!  I enjoyed the new car scent for the hour it took to drive to Sultanpur National Park.

 

Here is the alphabetical bird list from about 3 hours of easy walking at Sultanpur National Park.  Some ducks are not on the list.

 

One of our most impressive finds, according to Guide Sanjay, was the Sind Sparrow, and he found one that was very close for excellent photos.  In a stroke of bad luck, something happened to those sparrow photos and to about another 100 shots from Sultanpur.  The Sind Sparrow very closely resembles a house sparrow, but I have no photographic proof.  Here are a select few other Sultanpur shots that did not disappear.

.

Orange-headed Thrush in Sultanpur

 

 

Red-breasted Flycatcher in Sultanpur--My favorite bird of the outing maybe because it resembles the Easter Bluebird which I monitor as they nest in bluebird boxes we have put up where I live.

 

 

Grayheaded Canary Flycatcher in Sultanpur

 

 

Grey-headed Swamphen in Sultanpur, looking quite resplendent

 

 

Grey-headed Swamphen at Sultanpur in a somewhat disturbing photo that reminds me of the final scene in the 1970 film Deliverance starring Burt Reynolds.

 

 

 

White-throated Kingfisher at Sultanpur.  Upon careful inspection, the white throat is visible.

 

 

Fork-tailed Drongo at Sultanpur showing off the forked tail

 

 

Greater Coucal in Sultanpur

 

 

Purple Heron in Sultanpur

 

Spotted Owlet in Sultanpur

 

Lunch with Sanjay and the driver of the new car was included at a restaurant at the park.  A very enjoyable outing and Sanjay is an excellent birder and good guy!  Very thankful this outing took place given the G-20 restrictions and demands for drivers. Home in time for a much-needed nap and shower before meeting Linda for dinner at the hotel.

Edited April 11, 2023 by Atravelynn

[janzin]

Oh you gotta love Air India! 15 hour flight delay, how is that even possible? We took Air India from JFK on our trip a couple of years ago and swore never again. Our entertainment screen didn't work either (and I don't think any on board were working.) Glad you arrived safe and sound and managed to get your birding tour in! Pretty funny story about taking the wrong car, I'm sure the jet lag didn't help but maybe that contributed to the missing photos   I'm looking forward to your report but with a bit of trepidation as I know I will be really jealous of your tiger sightings, after our very dismal luck with tigers in Kabini.

Edited April 11, 2023 by janzin

[Atravelynn]

1 hour ago, janzin said:

Oh you gotta love Air India! 15 hour flight delay, how is that even possible? We took Air India from JFK on our trip a couple of years ago and swore never again. Our entertainment screen didn't work either (and I don't think any on board were working.) On the way home, none worked, it was not just mine. Glad you arrived safe and sound and managed to get your birding tour in! Pretty funny story about taking the wrong car, I'm sure the jet lag didn't help but maybe that contributed to the missing photos--yes that is a very good guess but it remains a mystery   I'm looking forward to your report but with a bit of trepidation as I know I will be really jealous of your tiger sightings, after our very dismal luck with tigers in Kabini. Sorry about Kabini, hopefully good tigers elsewhere.

 

[janzin]

9 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

Sorry about Kabini, hopefully good tigers elsewhere.

 

Actually no tigers anywhere else but fortunately it was not intended primarily as a tiger trip. The main goal was birds and on that we did very well (still working through the photos so the trip report won't be for awhile.) And a few other good mammals---just not tigers!

[TonyQ]

A good start, especially when you got into your own car!

[Atravelynn]

2 hours ago, janzin said:

 

Actually no tigers anywhere else but fortunately it was not intended primarily as a tiger trip. The main goal was birds and on that we did very well (still working through the photos so the trip report won't be for awhile.) So it was a success! And a few other good mammals Now that's an intriguing statement.---just not tigers!

 

2 hours ago, TonyQ said:

A good start, especially when you got into your own car!  I need to work on those basics!

 

[wilddog]

I was amazed that @Atravelynn found the energy to complete her day out after her messed up journey, but it is obvious from her post above, that it was worth while.

 

Lynn and I met up for supper as planned. We were both a bit disoriented, I think, as we stumbled round trying to find the restaurant, This ended up being right opposite us, but we were misled by the Breakfast notice at the doorway, which made us think there was another restaurant. After a wander around in the nether regions of the hotel, fruitlessly searching, we realised our error, found the restaurant, and had a meal together.

 

We had of course met in Mana some years ago and so the reminiscing began.

However we were both tired so went up to our rooms reasonably early, ready to reconvene in the morning

Delhi Logistics and Onward Journey

 

We had both been met independently at Delhi airport and escorted to the hotel by our WWI representative, Dikshant Sharma; a very pleasant young man. He kindly kept me company at the hotel on arrival, as my room was not quite ready..

He also provided the Rupees I had requested (More to come on the Rupees at the end of the TR in notes/advice section)…………….and informed us of our travel arrangements for the next morning, when we were to be collected by car and escorted to the Domestic Terminal.

 

We were to fly, with Indigo, to Jabalphur and then a road trip on to Bandhavghar.

 

The security aspect at the Domestic Airport was a little daunting. The procedure was much more complex than that to which we were accustomed, particularly through the scanning of bags bit. Shoes off, coats off, cameras out of case, laptops out, and there were a variety of different sized trays you need to use for each item. Of course we knew nothing of this, but a kind gentleman in the queue explained some of the procedure to us, which helped.

 

I think I managed with 3 trays? But Lynn who was carrying a lot of stuff in her coat (not an uncommon practice for Safari goers) had more to unload and display. I will never forget seeing her staggering from the tray loading area, which was at a distance from the conveyor belt, with a stack of trays etc. I think she got stopped at the end of the conveyor belt and was also delayed because some poor chap had to completely empty his bags all over the floor.

 

Once that was over, feeling relieved, we went through to await our flight. After that, all was plain sailing. These are the times when having a travel companion is so helpful.

 

When we landed at Jabalpur and had collected our bags, @Rajendra jhariya our WWI Guide, for both Bandhavghar and Pench, was waiting for us and waving at Lynn, who knew him well from her previous trips

 

As we headed to Bandhavgart the environment became more rural and we the goats and cows wandering around, some Macaques and, shortly before we arrived, at a camp a Golden Jackel and Civet seen on the headlights

Edited April 11, 2023 by wilddog

[wilddog]

 

 

Bandhavghar Jungle Camp.

 

We arrived in the dark and, as we were scheduled for 3 full day drives here, it was only on our last morning we saw whole the camp in daylight.

 

Lynn and I had two adjacent rooms on the ground floor of a neat 2 storey building. it was very comfortable and included everything we would need.

 

 

 

Evening meals were taken in a large dining and lounge area with sofas, and several tables. Guests tended to eat with their ‘gypsy companions’. So Lynn, Rajen and I dined together.

 

 

The food was very varied. The 3 course meals were complex with a variety of different dishes and we tried each of them. The staff and Rajen advised of the most spicy dishes. Occasionally there was a sauce which was a bit powerful for us, but in the main everything was delicious and beautifully served. And there was always a lovely pudding.

 

On one occasion we had a barbeque on the terrace area.

 

 

It was only after a first day that I began to recognise certain areas that we travelled through. I had been to Bandhavghar in 2004 but could not remember the name of the lodge. In time, it became apparent that this was where I had stayed all those years ago. The main dining and lounge area has been seriously and very effectively upgraded since then.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2023 by wilddog

[Atravelynn]

5 hours ago, wilddog said:

Lynn and I met up for supper as planned.  So nice to see Linda again after saying good-bye in Mana Pools 7 years ago after a "Doug Trip." After a wander around in the nether regions of the hotel, fruitlessly searching, we realised our error, found the restaurant, and had a meal together.  This is normal navigation for me, so I had completely forgotten about our parading through the hotel.

 

 our WWI representative, Dikshant Sharma; a very pleasant young man...also provided the Rupees.  A very nice service, much appreciated, to avoid lines and hassles changing money at the airport upon arrival.  They were small bills, which is handy.

 

some poor chap had to completely empty his bags all over the floor. Which prompted some f-words from him and a summons of the airport police from the security staff. Rather stressful.

 

Edited April 11, 2023 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

When we finally got to see the place, I found Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge to be quite enchanting.  What a campus with all sorts of interesting places to lounge and relax, if you weren’t out in the jungle for every hour of daylight.

Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge Main Lounge and Dining Area

 

Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge Rooftop Lounge

 

Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge - another little relaxation enclave

 

Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge small shrine

 

 

Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge Wall to keep out the elephants that have made their way to Bandhavgarh

[wilddog]

Lets Talk Bandhavghar Tigers

 

 

I should add at this point that we had Rajen as our guide together with a Bandhavgar Guide and Bandhavgar Driver. These quys were brilliant and up for a bit of fun too. @Atravelynn can you provide their names, please? I do not seem to have written them down!

 

Also sighting numbers. This is a team report, so very rarely Lynn or I would glimpse a tiger, usually one of the cubs, (once alerted by the quides) that one of us could not see. This was often to do with our relative positions within the vehicle, that damn bush that gets in the way, or our eyes were just glued to our camera target.

 

NOTE.

• Tigers are introduced in time and date order of first sighting, with subsequent sightings included where applicable
• Sightings numbers are chronological.

 

TIGER 1- Chakadhara male - Sightings #1, #6 and #7

 

This very fine Male was our first Tiger. Magnificent, but shy of vehicles, he nevertheless gave us some wonderful photography opportunities. Our guides predicted where he would reappear after the initial glimpse so that we were either alone at the sighting or with one other vehicle.

 

I will add a just a few photos here and then @Atravelynnwill add her images and her observations/text 

 

Tiger Sighting #1 of Chakadhara was on the afternoon of Day 1, with 2 more of him (Tiger Sighting #6 & #7) the following morning

 

 

 

 

 

Our second if him (Sighting #6) was on the morning of day 2, firstly when he was hidden with Kajiri female (more of her later) on a kill in dense bushes. He then got up and walked away and could be seen in the distance and was glimpsed later crossing a gully. No photos from either of us. At this point

 

...and our third, (Sighting #7)  was much later that morning, when we returned to the Bat Cave area (for those that know it) and we found him going for a drink.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 13, 2023 by wilddog

[wilddog]

 

Tigers 2&3 (Sightings 2 &3 )

 

2 sub adults seen later the first morning, sleeping amongst the rocks obscured by bush.

 

I have no photos of these two. Lynn may have.

Edited April 12, 2023 by wilddog

[michael-ibk]

Awesome Tigery start! 

[PT123]

This is really a superb report so far. My wife and I have been considering a tiger trip and we may have to plagiarise your itinerary!

[Atravelynn]

4 hours ago, PT123 said:

This is really a superb report so far. My wife and I have been considering a tiger trip and we may have to plagiarise your itinerary! Thank you.  Please do follow in our footsteps if you like!  When do you plan to go?