Tiger Trifecta; Thirty Three sightings of Twenty Three Tigers in Ten and a half days

[Atravelynn]

A female tiger known as Laxmi emerged from the brush in Pench, focused on some sambur just across the road.  We were with one other vehicle on her left side, allowing her plenty of room to see the sambur. There were about four vehicles on her right side, also well back so she could see the sambur, who were unaware of the nearby predator. 

 

Laxmi was inching closer to the prey when two vehicles approached on the right.  Everyone was holding up our hands for them to stop but the vehicles continued forward and parked themselves in front of Laxmi, blocking her view of the prey.  She stopped stalking and the sambur ran away.  We were disappointed that her hunt was disrupted.  Rajen reminded us that even under ideal circumstances, the hunting  success rate for tigers is about 20%.

 

Sighting #13  Laxmi, female, Pench. 5-7 other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #13  Laxmi, female, Pench. 5-7 other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #13  Laxmi, female, stalking sambur.  Pench. 5-7 other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #13  Laxmi, female, her hunt interrupted, no longer stalking.  Pench. 5-7 other vehicles.

 

 

Quote of the Trip

A phrase shared with us by Hari ( @madaboutcheetah) is the Quote of the Trip. Although Hari did not join us until we visited Kabini, the third and final park of the trip, the comment is appropriate for this next tiger sighting.  Hari referred to the many vehicles jockeying for position at a tiger sighting as a Gumball Rally.  That was so descriptive and accurate that it become the Quote of the Trip.

 

 

A mother with four approximately 5-month old cubs had been seen at a waterhole the previous afternoon following an absence from the area for about a week.  We hung out at that waterhole the next afternoon for about 45 minutes.  Finally, one other vehicle joined us.  Eventually we departed, leaving the other vehicle still at the waterhole. 

 

We were driving around when we got word from the vehicle that had stayed at the waterhole that the mother had appeared and we were not certain of how many cubs.  We proceeded back to the waterhole posthaste and positioned ourselves perfectly to see the mother and one of the cubs, not an easy task because the waterhole was far (40 yards?) and there were some obscuring branches, plus there was a water level marker with numbers on it sticking up near the middle of the pond that does not look good in a photo.

 

 

Driver Lalit, naturalist Banwari, and of course WWI Guide Rajen did a fantastic job of getting us TO this sighting and then positioning us well, given all the obstacles and then all the vehicles.

 

 

As we concentrated on this pair, other vehicles were arriving and maneuvering in Gumball Rally fashion.

 

 

The mother and cub did not seem to be affected by the Gumball Rally vehicles.  The distance of the waterhole and the protective brush probably gave the tigers confidence.

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

 

Sighting  #15   5-month (approx) old cub in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

 

Sighting  #15   5-month (approx) old cub in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles and a Red-wattled Lapwing.

 

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

Sighting #14 & #15  Mother and one of her 5-month (approx) old cubs in Pench.  15+ other vehicles.

 

 

We included this productive waterhole on our next drives.  One time we saw two park staff members drive up to this waterhole on motorbikes and check the water quality.  We were told the water at all the waterholes is tested several times a day to be sure there is no poison that would be part of a poaching scheme.  Impressive.

 

 

Another time we saw the father of the four cubs, named Swastik (because of the marking on his face) sitting in the waterhole and then exiting.  The good view we had enjoyed of the mother and cub is put into perspective by the Swastik shot at this same waterhole.  He was more obscured and you can see the depth marker.  We were lucky with the mother and cub.

Sighting #16  Swastik, male, at the same waterhole as the mother and cub (his mate and offspring.)  Both the tiger and our vehicle are in different spots than when we viewed the mother and cub.  The depth marker is visible. About 5-8 other vehicles.

 

 

The swastika marking, giving this tiger his name, is evident on the side of his face.  Luckily I got his namesake side and not the other side, as he slid through the forest.

Sighting #17 Swastik, the namesake marking visible on his face, male, Pench. About 5 other vehicles.

 

Sighting #18 was humorous and completely obscured.  I got my best views looking at the video screen on the guy’s camera from the vehicle in front of us.  Laxmi was deep in the forest washing her face.  These last two tiger sightings were not highlights, but our team worked very hard to produce them and to show us some more Pench tigers before we left.  We appreciated their all-out efforts for these tigers and our other sightings.

Edited April 20, 2023 by Atravelynn

[madaboutcheetah]

HAHA - Ladies, come back soon and we will run it back again! Gum ball rally and all .... 

[michael-ibk]

Very cool sightings in Pench! Love the Leopards and the Tiger cub, wonderful. 🙂

[Atravelynn]

11 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

HAHA - Ladies, come back soon and we will run it back again! Gum ball rally and all .... 

What a delightful invitation!

9 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

Very cool sightings in Pench! Love the Leopards and the Tiger cub, wonderful. 🙂

Water levels barred us from reaching those scenic areas that we enjoyed on our 2015 trip, but our time in Pench was fabulous.

[janzin]

18 hours ago, KaliCA said:

Looked at tickets yesterday. Choice of one stop is Air India. Choice of two stops is Qatar with stops in Chicago and Doha. Air India was a little cheaper and we refuse to pay more than economy for flights. What would you choose?

Your tolerance level may vary We flew Air India a few years ago (non-stop from JFK) but swore never again. The plane seemed old, nothing worked (no one's entertainment system worked either coming or going, which made the many, many children on the flight very unhappy.) The food was pretty terrible and the seats very uncomfortable. We took it because it was cheap and at the time the only nonstop, but this last trip (Feb 2023) we went on American (nonstop from JFK) which was infinitely better.

[AKR1]

I too would not recommend Air India at this time. They currently have unreliable service ( delays, airport switches - ex: from EWR to JFK last minute) and very old equipment that is obviously not been maintained properly from a passenger comfort perspective while they await new aircraft.  
it’s a pity, as they presently have a significant competitive advantage over other carriers given they can access Russian airspace and reduce flight times from the east coast by 2-3 hours each way. Also they have recently been privatized to their original owner, the highly reputable Tata group, which has a steep hill to climb to restore the airline to its old glory- something I am confident will happen but will take several years. 
 

[Atravelynn]

Nice to know there is another non-stop option from the US to India with American, @janzin.  The non-working screens seems to be the status quo now.  I was drawn in by the non-stop from O'Hare, so convenient for me.    Maybe Air India will be a good choice again sometime in the future based on @AKR1's insightful comments.

[KaliCA]

Hmmm, what to do? I don’t normally use the entertainment screen, but my husband does when he can’t sleep. I was also looking at the one SW Florida to Chicago to Delhi. Very attractive price and 1 stop only. But…not a night flight. Will have to make a decision soon. Thanks for everyone’s thoughts. 

[madaboutcheetah]

1 hour ago, Atravelynn said:

Nice to know there is another non-stop option from the US to India with American, @janzin.  The non-working screens seems to be the status quo now.  I was drawn in by the non-stop from O'Hare, so convenient for me.    Maybe Air India will be a good choice again sometime in the future based on @AKR1's insightful comments.

 

It will in due course improve with the TATA's now take over..... Example., look at their current handling of vistara (at the moment India's best airline) - FYI Vistara is a tie up between TATA and super amazing Singapore airlines 

[janzin]

1 hour ago, madaboutcheetah said:

 

It will in due course improve with the TATA's now take over..... Example., look at their current handling of vistara (at the moment India's best airline) - FYI Vistara is a tie up between TATA and super amazing Singapore airlines 

Yes, we flew Vistara domestically in India twice in February, and it was great. Good service and on-time. And inexpensive--we were even able to fly Premium Economy which was only very slightly more than economy and well worth it (mainly because it gave us greater weight for carry-on/camera gear, but also pre-boarding, and special access lanes.)  I didn't know that TATA also has a stake in Air India now...that does give hope for the future!

 

Edited April 21, 2023 by janzin

[madaboutcheetah]

2 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

 

It will in due course improve with the TATA's now take over..... Example., look at their current handling of vistara (at the moment India's best airline) - FYI Vistara is a tie up between TATA and super amazing Singapore airlines 

      In the interim - Air India are to lease out 8  777-300 ERs from Etihad ..... Should be modern aircrafts?

[wilddog]

 

 @KaliCA travel options are tricky, but you will decide what suits you best in time.

 

As a UK resident i was fortunate that I could use British Arways direct into Delhi and direct to London out of Bangalore AND use airmiles. Happy days.

 

Just off to the airport to go to Northern Ireland for a dance weekend. No safari boots packed this time.😂

 

i think Lynn will be adding more sightings in the meantime, if she has time.

 

 

Edited April 21, 2023 by wilddog

[AKR1]

On 4/19/2023 at 7:18 PM, Atravelynn said:

Pench is known for leopards and nice scenery along with tigers, so the Leopard List for our 4 nights will be first.

 

Pench Leopard List

4 total, all adults, 3 photographable

2 one morning, 1 that same afternoon, for a total of 3 on a day with no tiger sightings

1

The photographer Shaaz Jung ( Nikon Ambassador and Nat Geo contributor) posted this leopard video from Pench on his Instagram feed today. Probably one you saw? 
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrSkOdTvkLk/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

The Indian Leopard or at least this Pench leopard in terms of its face ( not body) looks almost like a cross between a Jaguar and leopard. 

Edited April 21, 2023 by AKR1

[Atravelynn]

8 hours ago, AKR1 said:

The photographer Shaaz Jung ( Nikon Ambassador and Nat Geo contributor) posted this leopard video from Pench on his Instagram feed today. Probably one you saw? 
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrSkOdTvkLk/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

The Indian Leopard or at least this Pench leopard in terms of its face ( not body) looks almost like a cross between a Jaguar and leopard. That cross occurred to me to when we saw the leopards in Pench.

 

[Atravelynn]

Other sightings in Pench, besides tigers and leopards, were numerous and far outnumbered the cats.  We spent a lot of time looking for dhole and did get a glimpse, but no photos, of a pack of ten, four adults and six pups. 

 

Sambur and Chital comparison shot in Pench

 

 

Sambur in Pench

 

 

Sambur in Pench

 

 

Sambur in Pench

 

 

Sambur in front of Langur Monkeys in Pench

 

 

Playful young Langurs in Pench

 

 

Playing Tarzan in Pench

 

 

Playing Tarzan.  The very tolerant adults had zero objections to having their tales used as a rope.  Pench

 

 

Playful young Langurs in Pench

 

 

Playful young Langurs in Pench

 

 

Orange-headed Thrush in Pench

 

 

White-eyed Buzzard in Pench

 

 

Black Eagle, not commonly seen in Pench.  Eating a fish.

 

 

Pied Kingfisher in Pench

 

 

Crested Serpent Eagle in Pench

 

 

Wild Boar in Pench

 

 

Gaur in Pench

 

 

@johnweirmentioned earlier in this report that he saw us at this White-throated Kingfisher sighting in Pench.

 

White-throated Kingfisher eating a frog.  After the frog was devoured, the entire body of the kingfisher shook and shimmied as the frog continued to struggle inside the bird.

 

 

 

White-throated Kingfisher devouring a frog in Pench

 

 

Open-billed Storks in Pench

 

 

Open-billed Storks in Pench

 

 

Indian Roller in Pench

 

 

Peacock in Pench

 

 

Peacock and Chital in Pench

 

 

Chital and Indian Myna in Pench

 

 

Sambur with Rufous Treepie in Pench

 

 

Oriental Scops in Pench

 

 

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon in Pench

 

Green Bee-eaters in Pench

 

 

Ashy Prinia spotted while waiting at the waterhole where the tigress and cub appeared in Pench

 

 

Painted Spurfowl.  Frequently seen but always in the darkest shadows, until this couple emerged from the brush onto the rocks in the sun. Pench

 

 

Changeable Hawk Eagle in Pench

 

 

Changeable Hawk Eagle in Pench

 

 

At the Pench Center Point where meals were eaten and toilets were available.  Mowgli from Jungle Book and me.  I am the one not in a loin cloth.

 

 

Golden Jackal in Pench

 

 

Golden Jackal in Pench

 

 

 

Golden Jackal  really wanting to be part of the trip report- Pench

 

 

Golden Jackal in Pench

 

I took photos of this running jackal, with whom we shared the road for many kilometers/miles.  Linda has video of this canine on a mission, along with other creatures seen in Pench.

 

Edited April 23, 2023 by Atravelynn

[KaliCA]

Thanks, Lynn for a beautiful selection of wildlife in Pench. That jackal is adorable as are all the deer and so many great bird shots! 
Do you remember the temperatures in early March? 

Edited April 23, 2023 by KaliCA

[Atravelynn]

3 hours ago, KaliCA said:

Thanks, Lynn for a beautiful selection of wildlife in Pench. That jackal is adorable as are all the deer and so many great bird shots! 
Do you remember the temperatures in early March? 

Thanks and they are waiting for you if Pench is in your itinerary, most likely along with some stunning green and rocky scenery that we could not get to on this trip due to past rains that prevented access. But we did enjoy those areas with only 2 nights in our itinerary for Pench in 2015 (Stripes of Wild India report).  This trip, temps were pleasant from 60s when we left in the morning to upper 80s when we got back around 11 am and when we went out again in the afternoon.    Probably in the 90's at the heat of the day when we were  at Jamtara for lunch and relaxation.  The mildness was due to more cloud cover than normal and some rain--both unexpected March 9-12.    When I was posing with the Mowgli statue mid-day I had on a fleece over a short-sleeved shirt and long pants.  In 2015, we were in Pench March 24-25 and it was over 100 at the highs.  I recall opting to be driven in a golf cart from the main lodge to my room, just a block away, because it was so oppressively hot when we got back from a morning drive and ate lunch, very unlike me.  In general I recall past India trips in April when the temps were much warmer morning, noon, and night.  April has generally been considered a higher odds time for tigers than March (March is still very good and this was the best tiger trip ever!) because of the heat, which draws the tigers to water.  Based on rain showing up early in April over the last fews years, which never used to happen, Hari actually told us March would be a better time than April to visit for Kabini to have less chance of showers.  We did end up getting the first huge rain of the season late in the afternoon on March 15 in Kabini.  Not sure how the rain calculations in southern India relate to northern India and areas like Pench.

Edited April 23, 2023 by Atravelynn

[madaboutcheetah]

That’s true ... we get summer showers in Southern India which is atypical usually in May.  Of late , they occur in April and consistent rains by mid May. 
 

we had that one big storm in March which again is very unusual.  We’ve had some t storms this past weekend all over Southern India.

[KaliCA]

Thanks for the weather update! The reason I am asking is that I still have the time to move the whole trip closer and into March.

As of now, Ranthambore is Feb 15, 16, and 17 

Bandhavgarh and Kanha are for Feb 21-26. 
Corbett NP is scheduled for Feb 29, March 1 and 2

Asking all India /Tiger/timing  experts here: should I leave it as is or move up the trip by a week or even two?

I realize that no one has a crystal ball, but would March bring out more chances for sightings? Lynn and Hari seem to be a proponents for March, if I understand correctly. 

I hope I’m not disturbing this report too much with my frequent (and selfish) questions. 

 

[Atravelynn]

1 hour ago, KaliCA said:

Thanks for the weather update! The reason I am asking is that I still have the time to move the whole trip closer and into March.

As of now, Ranthambore is Feb 15, 16, and 17 

Bandhavgarh and Kanha are for Feb 21-26. 
Corbett NP is scheduled for Feb 29, March 1 and 2

Asking all India /Tiger/timing  experts here: should I leave it as is or move up the trip by a week or even two?

I realize that no one has a crystal ball, but would March bring out more chances for sightings? Lynn and Hari seem to be a proponents for March, if I understand correctly. 

I hope I’m not disturbing this report too much with my frequent (and selfish) questions. 

 

No disturbance whatsoever.  Likely helpful to others reading this report for their own trip planning.  For this trip we had discussions on Feb vs Mar. The big draw of Feb I think is to avoid heat.  My first trip had Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Corbett. I wanted a good chance to see tigers, plus elephants in Corbett.  I left home for India Mar 26 and returned April 15 and had good tigers.  If I had a choice, I'd move your trip into March, unless you have real problems with heat that override everything else.  Just be aware of Holi, which should work out well for you.  It's March 24 in 2024 and March 14 in 2025.  Do double check those dates, though.  I would avoid the parks on Holi and the week after to avoid crowds and higher lodging prices. We were in the parks the week after Holi on this trip.  You also are probably aware of no park entrances on Wed for some parks.  We were able to plan a  travel day on Wed.

 

You have an exciting tiger-centric itinerary there!

 

I'd be interested in what others think about your timing.

Edited April 24, 2023 by Atravelynn

[madaboutcheetah]

If you can, I'd recommend moving it into March also .....  Also, maybe start at Jim Corbett?  Corbett for whatever reason is meant to be stunning in their winter..... I know a lot of people who go exclusively in the winter to get the best out of the park in terms of habitat etc etc.,   I think Corbett is best accessed from Delhi.

[johnweir]

Just thought I had better provide evidence that we were indeed at Pench at the same time.

 

 

Incidentally my Tiger count is now 29. Thoroughly enjoying your report and images.

[mtanenbaum]

You report is making me laugh and also cry and feel depressed. I would love to have gone with you and in hindsight I feel I really screwed up not to try to go for it! But I don't think my regional boss would have OK'd it. She apparently was already mad that I had the nerve to take 2 vacations in 2022 that were 2 weeks plus, each, even though I had the vacation time accrued! So it probably wouldn't have worked out anyway but I'm glad your trip was so great and I'm looking forward to hearing the last part. I'm still hoping to do India in 2024 but maybe with a small group like Nature Trek. 

[mtanenbaum]

BTW, this kingfisher eating frog is one of my favorites from your trip so far. Eager to see the Kabini part!

 

[Atravelynn]

@mtanenbaumYou'll get there and have your own trip highlights.  Sorry it did not work out for you this time around.  It's discouraging when you have trip plans and life--in some unruly form--intervenes. 

 

Credit goes to johnweir for that kingfisher and frog shot, just above.  We all happened to be at the same sighting together, but did not realize it until later.  Small world.  A reunion unbeknownst to those in attendance centered around a bird devouring a whole, live frog is a bizarre oddity to say the least.