The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men … a somewhat turbulent safari to Kenya

[Africalover]

Hi you to, this is not a TR this is poetry and 1 class photografi.

Enjoyed every bit of it, how can i ever write af TR after that.

 

Thanks.

[Double Dare]

Loved it. The pictures, the writing - everything is first rate!

[pault]

Love the mIrror lions, ele and cub, and eles and Kili @@twaffle.... Fantastic morning's photography and a fantastic end to the trip.

 

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[Kitsafari]

thank you @@twaffle  for sharing a most beautifully written report, and thanks for taking me on this magical ride that only makes me yearn more desperately for the time I get to spend with all the wildlife.

 

The retreating giraffe is such an apt picture for a farewell. As you extend the distance between yourself and the giraffe, you take in a bigger expanse of the view, of the Africa that once was and still is, and of Africa that always embraces you when you arrive and when you leave.

 

I share your tears twaffle.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[ZaminOz]

Bravo both of you. Great trip report reporting a great adventure.

Fantastico!

[twaffle]

You are all very kind, thank you.

[africapurohit]

Thank you @@twaffle for sharing your story (the word "report" sounds too journalistic for this wonderful account). Not only have you revealed some of Kenya's hidden gems but you have enlightened many to a wonderful style of travel. Also, a special mention for the other characters in this story - animal and human.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[TonyQ]

Great writing and great photographs

The joint report worked brilliantly

I have enjoyed reading it bit by bit as it unfolds

As the winter comes in in the UK, I intend to choose a cold, wet day, open up your report and read it through again in one sitting, savouring it.

Edited December 15, 2018 by TonyQ

[samburumags]

Phew! just finished your report and can only reiterate what everyone else has said. What a last drive you had, talk about an infusion of adrenalin! I think all of us are worried about following this report I know I certainly do. I cannot hope to compete with the fabulous images but I just hope my up and coming safari is half as good as yours. Asante sana

[Soukous]

WOW!

@@twaffle what a fantastic report. It brings back many memories for me.

 

I can see I am going to have to start putting a bit more effort into my own trip reports which tend to be written in between game drives and clearly do not receive the loving care and attention that your epic has.

better still, why not come along and write my reports for me?

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[Soukous]

I'm curious  @@twaffle - were you uploading reports as you travelled or did you do all the reporting once your safari was complete?

 

I really do like the ongoing interaction between report writers and report readers.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

The more I can write 'in the moment' the more interesting and less static my words are. I have done TR in their entirety at home and found them a little dull, quite inaccurate and very hard work. When I have a chance to sit and write whilst living the experience, then I think I bring more passion to where I am. My 'Postcards from Kenya' TR was done almost entirely in the field and remains one of my favourite reports.

 

On some trips I wrote bits and pieces whilst sitting in the game vehicle waiting for action. But I do like writing.

 

I LOVE reading other TR and seeing other photos and it isn't a competition and never will be whilst I have any influence as a moderator.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[Soukous]

Thanks  @twaffle.

 

I need to write write reasonable notes whilst I am travelling or I simply forget too much, however I do think completing the TR when one gets home allows a much more relaxed writing style and probably makes for a better read. I must try it some time but I know that if I waited until I got home there would be too many other things demanding my attention.

I also find that writing the TR is a good way to fill up spare moments on safari.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[PT123]

Twaffle,

 

I’m just getting caught up on your report. Thanks for what hands down is the best report that I’ve ever had the pleasure of reading! It is obvious that the both of you invested a great deal of time and effort to create it. The writing and photography are both so evocative. I loved reading both of your impressions of the same area. It is always interesting to read two peoples memories of the same area and see how they differ. Perhaps you should publish a Coffee Table book? The wild dog shots are particularly striking (particularly the one of the dogs on the riverbank).

I was surprised that zebra and tommies would graze with domestic cattle (at Mugie Ranch). I guess that there is no reason why they wouldn’t/shouldn’t but for some reason I just assumed wild grazers would shy away from cattle. I agree with the comments about the success of the ranches in the Laikipia region are having in blending local communities, cattle ranches, and tourism to the benefit of local residents and wildlife. This is a good story and I think a realistic model that could be replicated in some but not all other areas. The down side to this of course is that it means these areas are not truly wild due to human activity and the presence of domestic animals (livestock and dogs/cats).

 

Radio collar lion and dog tracking looked interesting. Were you able to stop along the way to see other things as they presented themselves or was it strictly following the radio signal? Two punctures on one drive is bad luck but I’m glad that you were able to locate the lions.

 

 

Twaffle’s comment about elephants (and presumably all animals): “Just being in the company of such magnificent and sentient animals is a joy and I work hard every time I come across a herd to single out individuals to let them show their own character and personality.” Is why I personally am not in favor of hunting. (Apologies for injecting this into this TR.) Incorporating a flight over Bagoria into the travel between camps was a stroke of genius. Thanks for circling the dogs on the shore – I was totally squinting and having trouble locating them!

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by PT123

[PT123]

Thanks for the comments on the "wilderness feel" - given that you are so widely traveled to some more remote areas I appreciate that you can put Laikipia into proper context.

Edited December 15, 2018 by PT123

[SafariChick]

well everyone has said it but I agree, fabulous photos and report - thank you both very much for putting this together!

[madaboutcheetah]

@@twaffle @- Thanks so so much for a brilliant report!!!!! just catching up with it ........... (I still have a couple of pages to read through) .............. Enjoyable - every word and every image!!!!!

Edited December 16, 2018 by madaboutcheetah

[madaboutcheetah]

@@twaffle - OKay - now I'm upto speed on the report. What a fabulous stay in Kitirua!!!! Looks like a wonderful destination in a private concession with splendid viewing .........

 

I'm not too familiar with the general area - but, what is the area like around Ol Donyo Lodge? -

This entire area is more a dry season destination I figure? What do you think about the Wet season - March/April?

Thanks in advance - Lovely report - enjoyed it thoroughly.

Edited December 16, 2018 by madaboutcheetah

[twaffle]

Thanks Hari, .... has provided a great answer so I'll leave it to him.

[madaboutcheetah]

 ..... great info!!!

Edited December 16, 2018 by madaboutcheetah

[Morkel Erasmus]

I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, Hilary! The images from Kitirua really are special...reminds me a lot of the Etosha expanse but with the bonus of Kili!

You're doing the new gear justice...

 

I hope that Kenya's wildlife can make a turn for the better in the future and that these experiences can once again be enjoyed more often and in more regions.

[twaffle]

Thanks Morkel, there are so many special places in Kenya with great photography prospects but sadly, or perhaps fortunately for me, the photo safaris don't find them marketable.

 

I often thought about Etosha whilst at Kitirua as it is a place that I'd love to visit one day. Partly due to yours and Peter Delaney's photos. Love the expanses and very subdued and almost restricted tonal ranges available.

 

Thanks for wading through the rather long trip report.

[Sangeeta]

Truly stunning photos of Kitirua - the tusks on the ele herd on the dry river bed look magnificent. So many amazing images... Twaffle  - you  have really outdone yourself in putting this report together. Terry's photos are also sublime.

 

Kenya off the beaten path and at its best. Hard to believe this was August and the same month and country where more than 150 cars were lined up to watch the crossings in the Mara!

 

 I am now greatly intrigued by the idea of a Chyulu-Kitirua safari. Have you asked Squack about the wet season possibility of using Kitirua? What did he say?

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[Atravelynn]

Page 1--Sorry your carefully planned itinerary was disrupted, but worse would have been to be the first to encounter the bandits. This WILL be an adventure. Looking forward to it. The munching gerenuk and kicking Grevy's are great animated subjects for your northern species.

 

I remember contemplating the possibility of a lionless safari one time and was ok with it. While I have not read ahead to see whether yours was lionless or not, I'm sure other gems await you besides Panthera Leo.

 

You have captured the character of the spider web!

[Atravelynn]

The suspense is over. Lion sighted, and almost immediately! Beautiful scenery shots and I see the Lesser Kudu were jumping with joy to see you. I'm impressed there was room to pack spaghetti and olive oil! That Donaldson - Smith's was a great find and you caught it midflight!