The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men … a somewhat turbulent safari to Kenya

[twaffle]

Wild dogs were the prize

 

It sounds strange, but I hear music when I’m travelling through the country roads of Kenya on my way to another camp, it's always there with harmonies and melodies rising and falling, the rhythms echoing the swaying of the vehicle. No one else hears them, that's part of the beauty of it all. A secret world where I drift off, where past and future meld together. The passing trees, the drifting clouds, the dust swirling with the movement of the car … all these things remind me that life is fleeting and the joys of a day on safari are over almost before they have begun.

 

The reflex action is to wave to small children as we pass them, some starring back with curiousity and others waving with enthusiasm as our dust encompasses them and they disappear behind us. Large herds of gently swaying camels wander past us, stately as they forage along the road side with large and clumsy brands on their skin proclaiming ownership, perhaps to one or other of the lean herders who follow on behind them. This is camel country and this is not the first herd we've seen. Many camel safaris begin their journey here in the high country of the Laikipia Plateau, before descending to the dry, dusty arid country of the Northern Frontier.

 

On my left I see shadowy grey shapes making their way through the vegetation on the crest of a hill. We slow down as the elephants move closer to the public road, more and more of them joining the herd from where they were hidden from our view. Ahead of us the ground falls away towards the heavier vegetated ranches where we are headed and we think that we are near Ol Maisor although none of us are familiar with this country.

 

Passing through the small village which heralds our imminent arrival at Laikipia Wilderness Camp, we begin to see more and more herbivores on either side of the road. It has hardly been a difficult drive from Mugie Ranch with much to see and anticipate. The beat of the music in my head becomes heavier, a strong rhythm of drums begin to beat until I realise that it is my heart pounding and there is the rising excitement of the ever repeating question "dogs or no dogs"?

 

And yet the reality is that even without the dogs, LWC is still beautiful and productive and I am happy to be back.

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

We are welcomed onto the ranch by a rather ragged looking bull elephant with a broken tusk. Accompanied by a small number of other elephants, he is enjoying a dust bath at the site of an old boma. Just being in the company of such magnificent and sentient animals is a joy and I work hard every time I come across a herd to single out individuals to let them show their own character and personality.

 

 

We reach camp in time for tea and it feels like a mini home coming.

 

Here I sit on the balcony of the mess building and look across the shallow valley in front of me, lost in thoughts. The cake on offer today is as fresh as ever but with a moist, sweet flavour and texture which is overwhelmingly familiar. Hummingbird cake! No one serves hummingbird cake in Kenya, surely, so I go in search of Annabelle to ask her about the menu. She looks surprised when I ask her about the cake, surprised that I recognise it and yes, I am right. She has an old Australian Women's Weekly cookbook and it serves her kitchen well with easy to follow, delicious recipes including the Australian favourite.

 

Terry and I decline a late afternoon activity as the dogs haven’t been sighted and I want some profile photos to use back home and so we head out with cameras, tripods, reflectors and good spirits to spend a little time on our own playing around with our photography. What a happy little interlude.

 

[twaffle]

Later that evening we all sit down with Barend to discuss our approach to finding the dogs. Going along with his suggestion to delay our morning departure by half an hour to give the dogs a chance to get mobile (if they are within range) we all savour the thought of a mini sleep in. Unbeknown to us, whilst we are talking about our plans, the first signals are received from the dogs and so the next morning we head out with the knowledge that our goal is within reach. Steve guides us and Barend takes the other guests out on their drive.

 

 

I have to say that I find Steve an absolutely excellent guide and so passionate about the wildlife and the environment. He has such a huge reputation that I have to admit that I felt a little apprehensive before arriving at the camp but he is easy to talk to, very personable and such a wonderful person to be out in the bush with. He and Annabelle make a great team.

 

Looking back now, it was a great morning, in fact at the time I declared that it was the best morning game drive of the trip. We headed off with Steve and Joseph and it was fascinating watching the way they approached searching for the dogs. It certainly wasn’t just a matter of following signal strengths and much like with the lions, it was as much a matter of Steve knowing the movement patterns of the pack as well as knowledge of the areas they like to frequent.

 

There was great excitement when we at last found them, although if we hadn’t have slept in we might have caught them before they devoured the impala, little remnants of which were being carried about by a few of the dogs.

[twaffle]

I think, if my memory serves me right that I was actually the first to spot a dog moving quickly through the undergrowth. I'll claim it anyway!

 

Soon we had 10 dogs moving into a small clearing with two carrying prized pieces of the impala carcass. It wasn't long before they disappeared into the next clump of bushes and Steve indicted that we should be quiet and listen. A sudden noise and he said "got one" and just like that they had caught a dik dik, demolished it and were back out in the open. How many kills did we experience? Many, and they were all like that … noises in the bush, fleeting sights of black hair between the green foliage, a flash of white tail, a squeak and squeal and then quiet for a short time. Scurrying dikdiks, nervously flicking their noses and ears, it was hard not to feel sorry for them. Then you'd see the heavy belly of the alpha female, only weeks away from denning, her teats starting to hang low and then you would feel for her and the pack knowing how many extra mouths they would soon be feeding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve, with his superior knowledge of the habits of these dogs, moved us down the road where he said that they would be likely to move. Sure enough, it wasn't long before they came out, but not just the 10 original dogs because now we had the full pack of 17. The missing 7 having been called in by the other dogs. We had a good, big pack of dogs and they gave us an excellent run for our money. They moved to a dam for a drink and we had a wonderful view of them playing and swimming in the water despite the cool air. Later we lay on the road near where they had stopped, hoping that they would come and investigate us and felt rather ridiculous when they decided to trot off in the opposite direction.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eventually we couldn't follow them any more and we had come to the time of day when they would more commonly find a shady tree to settle down for their rest. Steve took us up to the top of the ridge because sometimes they would wander up there to settle and if they didn't he could determine where they had stopped allowing easier access to them in the afternoon. They didn't appear, but we used the waiting time to peer under rocks with Steve educating us on the different scorpions and the toxicity of their venom.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was having an exhilarating morning drive, enjoying the opportunities to get out and wander about. It was lovely looking over the plateau below us, imagining all the many animals going about their business. Steve began to tell us about the last mountain reedbuck left on the property saying that there had been a small number when they came here but that only one was left. He kept hoping that they would find others but he felt that the dogs had been successful in hunting them all. These were the Chanler's Mountain Reedbuck (Redunca fulvorufula Chanleri). As we drove along the top of the ridge, Steve called out in excitement because there in front of us was the elusive reedbuck. Not standing waiting for its portrait to be taken of course, but some of us got quite a good look at it and I did manage a pretty dreadful record shot. No critique needed of this!!!

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

The morning drive was far from over ...........

[twaffle]

Steve drove us to one of the ranch’s dams where often large herds of elephants came down to drink in the morning. We came around the wall of the dam on a small track and came up the side to a lovely sight of several small herds of elephants, some drinking, some waiting their turn. As we sat there, another small family group walked across the dam wall, including a cow who was as wide as she was tall, obviously very close to calving. Her previous calf, smelling an udder full of milk tried in vain to suckle but was too big now. We sat quietly as more and more elephants appeared out of the bush to await their turn at the water. Tiny calves stuck close to their mothers, so small I wondered how they would ever reach their mother’s udder to drink. With so many smaller herds coming together, there was the inevitable greetings between the various groups, trunks reaching out and touching one another. A small calf walked slowly towards a magnificent bull in musth, but hesitated when a few metres away and then rushed back to his mother. Steve estimated that we had well over 100 elephants coming down to the dam, in fact he thought we were closer to 150, so there was plenty to see. I certainly could have stayed there all morning as there was so much going on. A small group of elephants had found a perfect spot on the edge of the dam where they were busy with mud baths. One bull spent 10 or 15 minutes just standing in the water, his trunk resting so the tip was just under the water’s surface. Not drinking or splashing, just standing in a zen like state.

 

At last, however, we had to leave.

 

[twaffle]

Not much further on we came across 2 Samburu elders who were standing nervously near another dam. Steve stopped to chat to them it turned out that there was another herd of elephants at this dam and the Samburu, wisely I thought, were hesitant about walking past them in case there were more in the undergrowth because as we all know, elephants can be dangerous. So we gave them a lift to well past the dam and although I couldn’t understand what they were saying as they were speaking Maa to Joseph, they were very cheerful and thanked Steve profusely in Swahili when we finally dropped them off. Steve explained that there were negotiated traverses through the Laikipia ranch lands so that the Samburu could move their herds and that these elders were returning to their area after attending a large ceremony.

 

 

Words and photos don’t adequately describe what a wonderful morning full of action it was, but I certainly believed that we would not better this morning drive, how could I, it was beyond fantastic. But I had said that once before, in Meru, and I was wrong then. Little did I know then what was ahead of us on our last morning on safari and what Squack would pull out of his leather hat.

[Sangeeta]

...what Squack would pull out if his leather hat.

 

Such a tease

 

This report is like fine wine. Gets better and better with age (i.e. as it progresses) and I really feel like swishing it around my mouth and savoring its bouquet & aroma!

 

What lovely memories, insights, photos. The dogs really put on a show for you. With me, they did a teaser run along the river bank but never jumped in. I loved the photo of the pointing dog. This was the second special elephant encounter of the trip.

Wonder if you had any more?

[wilddog]

So glad you got to the dogs. The pregnant Alpha female has probably denned by now; what a great thought.

 

As last time I commented, you have taken me away from home with your evocative prose and superb images.

 

What is it about sitting watching elephants that is SO powerful. They never cease to amaze................Are we not fortunate to have these times?

[graceland]

So glad you got to the dogs. The pregnant Alpha female has probably denned by now; what a great thought.

 

As last time I commented, you have taken me away from home with your evocative prose and superb images.

 

What is it about sitting watching elephants that is SO powerful. They never cease to amaze................Are we not fortunate to have these times?

I too love watching the elephants....and yes we are ever so fortunate.....great photos Twaffle!

Like the dogs even when they are in a frenzy!! But ellies make me smile!

[twaffle]

Thank you all for commenting, it does help provide the enthusiasm to continue ploughing through images and posting, especially as the end is near. Elephants did figure quite strongly throughout this report, sometimes you can be fortunate, you are right Wilddog, and I dread the times when it becomes harder and harder.

 

Sangeeta, let's just say that elephants were not done with us yet!

[twaffle]

I remember that day’s lunch as it was by the edge of another dam and when we arrived it was like a family scene by the beach with Annabelle and her youngest son swimming and splashing in the water. Barend quickly threw off his shirt and jumped in as well whilst the rest of us declined the offer of a swim. The other vehicle (guided by Barend) had also turned up for lunch so it was a convivial group meal. The food was, as usual, of a very high standard.

 

 

After a short rest back at camp both vehicles went out to search for the dogs as the other vehicle had not seen them that morning. From a beautiful morning we headed into an overcast and gloomy afternoon. We put the canvas covers on the vehicle still the rain came in. We tracked the dogs to the top of the escarpment where we had waited in vain earlier that day and then we climbed out to track them on foot. Steve led us slowly and quietly towards where he thought they would be.

 

 

There were a lot of rocks, large flat ones, which held the heat from the midday sun and often the dogs would lie on them. Steve signaled us to get down, which we did, and then we waited quietly until we could all see the large black ears of one of the dogs. When the other vehicle arrived, Barend walked them in and all of us peered through the at the barely visible dogs. I was sitting on a rock with a large pile of fresh dog turds next to me so was very glad when Steve indicated that we move back to the vehicle so that we could drive around to the other side.

 

 

But it was dark, very dark, so when the younger dogs began to play the value of any photography had gone.

 

Steve asked whether any of us wanted to try lying on the ground again to see if the dogs would approach. I looked at the wet rocks, the gloomy darkness which would make photography impossible and declined. Terry was game, even if just for the experience, so he carefully got out of the vehicle and lay down. Steve then backed away so he was left on his own. It didn’t take long for one of the dogs to approach, followed by another. They were tucked behind some scraggly grass which meant that any photos Terry managed were behind grass. Not ideal, but when one of the dogs circled around and came within a few feet of Terry’s ankle Steve made a loud noise and drove the vehicle quickly forward ending the session and giving Terry his adrenaline rush. Steve said that he had never had such a bold showing from one of the dogs but neither Terry nor I felt any apprehension. Steve is a consummate professional and we felt completely safe. (I am saying ‘we’ because naturally I didn’t want Terry bitten … I mean the cost of rabies treatment is so expensive!)

 

[twaffle]

Our final morning was filled with another dog sortie, which followed similar lines as the previous morning. Lots of hunting which we couldn’t see but no swimming or water play. We went for a short walk into thicker bush country where we couldn’t follow in vehicles. I didn’t realise that it would last quite as long as it did and regretted not taking my hat. I was following Steve and could see him looking for tracks, but then he started looking a little concerned and I asked him why? He could see fresh, large tracks of a single buffalo and in the sort of country we were in, sighting a buffalo would be very difficult. So with eyes a little more sharply focused on every bush we passed, we continued on. Joseph showed why he would easily be able to escape from a charging rhino by climbing a small tree until he reached the very top, from where he looked around trying to see the dogs. Eventually, we did see them briefly but they were still on a mission for their next meals and out ran us easily. We returned to the cars and found them again, still hunting and eventually we left them and returned to some general sightseeing as we needed to return to camp to finish packing in preparation for our charter flight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the way back to camp we had a lovely sighting of three klipspringers, small antelopes which had evaded us up to this time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then we had a most strange experience. Joseph asked Steve to stop and then he jumped out of the vehicle to inspect the ground. Steve got out to have a look as well. Then Joseph started to walk rapidly down the road, into the bush, then back onto the road. We followed in the vehicle, wondering what on earth was going on. I am trying to remember and piece it together again now, as my notes were a little rusty. As Steve described it, there was a large drag mark on the road surrounded by hyaena and leopard prints. We saw the drag marks and the paw prints and could attest to the size of the drag. Then Joseph indicated a little later that there were now only leopard tracks with the drag going down the road and reasonably fresh. We followed, and every now and again Steve or Joseph would get out of the vehicle and scout around, but the tracks were strong and continued on down the road. We drove past the camp’s turnoff road and continued onto the ridge opposite camp where the drag marks moved onto the grassy verge. Steve estimated that we had, by that time, traveled around 5 km. He was astounded at the distance the leopard had dragged the rather large carcass, and we still hadn’t found the cat. Steve and Joseph walked into the bush at this point, hoping to see some sign of the cat’s whereabouts but had no luck. Unfortunately, we had run out of time and with Steve surmising that the cat had cubs she was intending to feed, we really didn’t know. Maybe Steve or Joseph has the answer now, but how we would like to know.

 

So finally, after a wonderful brunch in the ‘reed pavilion’ overlooking the river, we said our farewells and headed off to the Sosian airstrip for our charter flight down to Namanga airstrip and our reunion with Squack.

 

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[pault]

Wonderful dog and elephant encounters - what a morning and I can confirm that you did transmit very well what a morning it was. Excellent pictures of the eles.That calf is really small.

[twaffle]

The biggest surprise of all … 

 

As mentioned earlier, we swapped our charter flight to Ishaqbini to a shorter one to Namanga Airstrip, servicing Kitirua where we were now headed. Squack had arranged for us to have a sight seeing flight down the Rift Valley mainly so that we could see Lake Bogoria, the very place which started my safari planning such a long time before. So at the end of our safari, I had been served up Lake Bogoria and Amboseli. Not perhaps in the way I had originally thought, but I was thrilled.

 

I thought I'd offer just a few photos of the experience as we flew at around 500ft over some of the Lakes. No words except to say that it was wonderful. The lakes were all flooded and roads in Lake Nakuru in particular, were well under water.

 

And the most surprising thing of all, when I looked closely at one series of photos, there standing in the middle is a wild dog, with another under the tree. I've looked really closely and the bushy white tails are clearly visible as are the big ears. So I went on line to find evidence of reports of dogs at Lake Bogoria ...

 

http://bioval.jrc.ec.europa.eu/APAAT/pa/2300/

 

Wild dogs at Lake Bogoria. Who would have thought?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by twaffle

[Africalover]

Hi Twaffle

 

You are indeed a fantastic photographer and you and Paols triptreport is outstanding, thank you for sharing.

 

Michael

[TonyQ]

Great pictures of the whole experience - tracking the dogs - the weather - but brilliant sightings (love the one of lying down with the dogs approaching)

Realy good views from the air as well - beautiful

 

I imagine you @@twaffle are very please with your new lens. It looks pretty sizable but you can hand hold it and are getting great results

[pault]

Biggest surprise indeed! Trying to think of what else they could be and there is nothing. Good to see. Bet they are going to appear in the Aberdares soon!

 

Lake Nakuru is a bit of a shock too. I know it is flooded but it is still a bit of a shock to see it.

 

Flamingoes make lovely patterns!

[twaffle]

Thanks Michael, Tony and Paul. The aerials through glass turned out better than I thought they would.

[africapurohit]

Too much too comment on, so I will summarise: fantastic photos and writing - all of it! The dogs look quite large in the photo where Terry is lying down - it must have been a fantastic experience. I'm sure your travel insurance would have covered the cost of the rabies vaccine

[graceland]

Stunning shots from the plane. I love seeing the flamingos - and the dogs at the lake...Taking pics from a plane are difficult; you must have opened the exit door

 

Agree with @@africapurohit - there is just so much! Love it all.

 

Can't wait fot the next installment.

[Game Warden]

Wow to the inflight shots! Reminds me of the byplane scenes in Out of Africa

[stokeygirl]

How cool to find dogs in your aerial shots.

Like people who find ghosts or fairies in their photos. Sometimes I think wild dogs are just as elusive.

[africapurohit]

Like people who find ghosts or fairies in their photos. Sometimes I think wild dogs are just as elusive.

 

[twaffle]

How cool to find dogs in your aerial shots.

Like people who find ghosts or fairies in their photos. Sometimes I think wild dogs are just as elusive.

 

 

Thanks Stokeygirl, it certainly felt like that when I saw them in the photo. I'm going back to all the other aerials to see if I can find an aardvark!!!