Ebb and Flow, ebb and flow in SLNP

[Kitsafari]

The Hollywood pride is out posing as well for all the guests in the area. The last 2 days find them at the river banks, doing what they do best, looking hugely contented as a pride and family with the large brood of cubs.

 

the first morning - the cubs lazing by the river and the adults up on the banks overlooking the juniors

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

while waiting for a long time for the lions to move (which they didn't) we found something more interesting.

 

if you look closely you will see one of the safari vehicles stranded at the bottom of the banks. one of Lion's camp driver thought he could navigate through the soft sands but got stuck instead. other Lions camp came to its rescue and they managed to pull the vehicle up in the end.

 

[Treepol]

@@Kitsafari I admired the colour and light in those magic quelea at dawn photos.

[Kitsafari]

@@Kitsafari I admired the colour and light in those magic quelea at dawn photos.

 

thanks @@Treepol, being there and seeing the magnitude of the quelea hordes is just incredible.

[Kitsafari]

And what is SLNP if you can’t end your trip with a leopard? Cue – Malaika again, this time on a kill in a bush. It is frustrating at first as a vehicle refuses to budge from a vantage point, but Malaika is kind enough to come out from the bush and starts cleaning herself. Just like a cat, she cleans herself thoroughly and then vanishes into the dark, in all likelihood to get her cub to share the kill.

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

One last thrill – our bionic spotlighter (ever so sorry that I didn’t get his name) can see the flapneck chameleon in the bush lit up only by the spotlight in the dark in a car that is moving fast. How he can spot that tiny tiny thing that blends in so perfectly is beyond me! But, how marvellous to finally see 2 in a row.

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

some random pix during our stay at Mwamba

 

A sleeping giant roadblock which refused to budge from the road. we waited for about 10mins and alec pushed forward, the ellie finally turned around, shaking his ears showing his displeasure. finally we went around him and he promptly fell asleep again.

 

 

 

 

 

a very thin hyena, who's been alone for a while.

 

 

rather unusual horns

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

a puku courtship. unfortunately, the stag didn't get his way in the end.

 

 

 

 

note how the stag lifts his limb against the female. he does that a few times.

 

[Kitsafari]

Finally, Mwamba camp. I love it to bits.

Mwamba camp has increased its tents by 1 to 4 now. It is the most rustic of the 4 camps we have been but I felt the most at home here. Mwamba tents are made of reeds with a bathroom that opens to the skies, which makes them cooler. It is not perfect, there are gaps in the walls, we find a centipede in the room on the third night. But we are so comfortable. Cold water is piped from the water banks below but they fill the buckets with hot water early in the morning at 5am.

The ceiling has two screened openings that open to the skies and trees. Lunch is at the deck but when we are there we opt to lunch at the main tent which overlooks a waterbath that continously draw not only birds, but also baboons, waterbucks, skittish impalas and elephants.

The main “tent” is fabulous as it opens to the skies. The dining table is now sheltered by a canvas roof. I enjoy the camadaerie here most of all the camps as the group is far smaller and more intimate at only 8 guests with Alec and/or Vic playing host(s). The bar is built around an ebony tree and your drinks are all out in the open. They have built a new dining table and chairs, but the dining table is built for Derek’s height! we are short and we mention it to Derek the first morning we are there, and, viola, by lunch, the table has been shortened to normal height! Amazing. We have champagne the last night we are there for surviving all the happenings at camp, so what is there not to love about Mwamba Bushcamp?

For electronic stuff, Mwamba only charges them when the guests are out of the camp because some guests apparently complained that the generator was too loud (!).

The Mwamba waterhole is incredibly productive. Lots of birds, impalas, elephants, bushbucks and hippos are there. And it is at the camp itself, so very easy to walk to there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

breakfast/tea area

 

 

animals at the waterhole

 

 

 

 

 

the last dinner at Mwamba

[Kitsafari]

And that's it folks. A very warm thank you to those who continued to follow my loooong rambling detailed trip report. I relived every moment of it as I wrote it, and I loved every minute of the trip, and I wonder if future trips can better what I have experienced here. I’m sure they will for every experience is so different and special in itself.

 

 

I have not been to many places in Africa but SLNP is as remote and wild as other places can be. The game density is high with wildlife and not so with humans. The growing brood of lions and leopards in South Luangwa show they must be doing some things right in SLNP. We have been so privileged that nature has once again blessed us, to get an opportunity to glimpse into the fleeting lives of wildlife.

 

 

 

 

[Geoff]

@@Kitsafari What a memorable safari. I thoroughly enjoyed your lengthy descriptive text and images.

 

I also believe that at Mwamba you would have met my long time friend and African travelling companion Peter (A veteran of years of African travels and long time return visitor to Mwamba / Kaingo).

 

As he said to me in an email "He would not be surprised if the woman (in the tent where the lion spent the night feeding on the impala) would need therapy"

[Kitsafari]

@@Geoff Hi Geoff, yes I did! such a very nice chap. Has he finished the project yet? Peter must have shared with you all the happenings. I did wonder if he was the guest in the hide when Ringo placed his paws on the window. you must ask him that. Poor Z was pretty traumatised but she seems quite strong. I have no doubt she'll return to Africa very soon. I know her husband is!

[michael-ibk]

Kit, this has been a very enjoyable report, and I really need to plan a trip to South Luangwa very soon - you were very convincing! You put a lot of work in this, so really thank you for your efforts. Love the Quelea and the Chameleon in your last installments, those birds are really incredible - what a sighting!

[Soukous]

what a wonderful safari @@Kitsafari

you seem to have had leopards on demand wherever you went. that must have been terrific.

 

that Carmine Bee eater colony is high on my bucket list too.

 

and the saga of the mangy lion was heart rending. It truly was a sickly looking specimen.

 

thanks for taking the time to share it all.

[ZaminOz]

@@Kitsafari wonderful trip report and photos. Loved it.

[marg]

@@Kitsafari...all of us have loved it!

[graceland]

@@Kitsafari, I hate to see this wild and wonderful trip report end. I truly felt I was there at many of your sightings. Details are definitely a strong suit in my opinion; can never have too many for total african addicts. We just thrive on more and more and more..

 

I think SNLP may be a good choice for the adventurous J...as I think of planning for the future.

 

Thanks for sharing such a superb trip!

[egilio]

What a wonderful trip report, and what a dramatic thing to see with the lion. Carnivores, especially lions don't often die quick and easy deaths.

[Geoff]

@@Geoff Hi Geoff, yes I did! such a very nice chap. Has he finished the project yet? Peter must have shared with you all the happenings. I did wonder if he was the guest in the hide when Ringo placed his paws on the window. you must ask him that.

 

@Kitsafari

 

Peter responded that no he wasn't in the hide. He had been in the hide the previous day, the day after the lion had killed the first buffalo and Peter took some images of him drinking. Even then the lion was in a cantankerous mood and you had to move around very quietly. It was the next day when the lion charged the hide: a small number of people - including the managers of Kaingo - had gone in there for a look and initially could not see the lion as he was right down the bottom near the water. Then as they sighted him he leapt up and charged the hide big-time. All onlookers fled leaving a camera or two in their wake that were subsequently retrieved a few hours later.

 

As for the project ~ That must be his 750 page coffee table book of photos from Africa. I think he is up to page 3.

[TonyQ]

@@Kitsafari

A wonderful, njoyable report, with a roller coaster of emotions

It has been great seeing SLNP again - it is indeed a fantastic place and your report shows it as such

Thank you

[Kitsafari]

@@michael-ibk@@Soukous@ZaminOz@marg@graceland@@egilio@TonyQ

 

Thanks so much for the compliments. Many a time I wonder if I get muddled into too much nitty gritty so thank you all for such generous words

 

SLNP really rivals all the other parks so @@michael-ibk it should be on your list!

 

As @@Soukous says, leopards were really visible. They stick around longer, great for shots. I think we saw 10 leopards in 14 sightings, not counting a tail seen during our walk.

 

We also saw 4 lion prides. Plenty of hyena. Lots of hippos. There were wild dogs at Mfuwe area which avoided us!

 

 

@@egilio that is a positive to take away with me. Thank you so much for it.

[Game Warden]

@@Geoff

 

Peter (A veteran of years of African travels and long time return visitor to Mwamba / Kaingo).

Get him onboard ST? Sounds like he has a few interesting trip reports...

[Kitsafari]

@@Geoff I remember that the project is to be only of good and pleasant moments.

 

Pse send our regards to him! And get him onto ST!

[Caracal]

@@Kitsafari - Thanks for this wonderful report. Your descriptive writing is matched by the beautiful and evocative photos.

[Atravelynn]

Such graceful avarian locusts. Your video really captured them. The sunset baobabs are wonderful. Those chameleons spotted at night really give the guides a chance to show off.

 

You really had a thrilling South Luangwa safari.