Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[Tom Kellie]

Adamson's Falls Bridge

The Tana River Adamson's Falls Bridge was funded by the World Bank and turned over to the Kenya Wildlife Service

in 1999. Driving across it is reassuring as it's a relatively solid structure without any rickety quality. These images were

taken on, under and near the bridge, providing various perspectives. It's located at the junction of two national parks,

Kora and Meru, and two national reserves, Bisanadi and Mwingi. We were told by the rangers that few visitors make

their way there, which reflects comments about the same area by Joy Adamson in her 1961 book, Living Free.

View Towards Meru National Park

View from Mwingi National Reserve

Adamson's Falls Bridge Span

Spanning the Tana

Adamson's Falls Bridge from Below

Southern Side of Adamson's Falls Bridge

World Bank-funded Bridge

[Tom Kellie]

KWS Facility at Adamson's Falls

On the Kora National Park side of the Tana River Adamson's Falls Bridge there is a Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) facility

housing a contingent of armed guards. Nearby is a picnic sight with a thatched shelter where it's possible to view the

waterfall. Evidence of the presence of numerous rock hyrax is widespread on the ground. When Anthony signed in

with the KWS on-site manager he was told that there hadn't been many visitors there during the preceding month.

Picnic Site and View Point Sign

KWS On-site Manager and Anthony

Stonework Mosaic

KWS Armed Security

Adamson's Falls KWS Facility

Bridge Sign

[Tom Kellie]

Adamson's Falls

Adamson's Falls on the Tana River passes through a rocky cataract of water-sculpted sedimentary rock. Swallows flew

back and forth over the frothing torrent despite the hot midday temperatures. It wasn't possible to approach the falls but

the sound was loud at a distance. Once the Tana flow commenced after the falls it became a placid river with scarcely a

ripple. What do animals think when they approach the Tana for a drink? Does the characteristic sound of a

waterfall trigger any response in them, or is it more or less ‘white noise’ to be ignored?

Adamson's Falls

Splashing Outflow

Wide View of Adamson's Falls

Tana River Flowing from Adamson's Falls

A Notably Rocky Area

Adamson's Falls on the Tana River

Edited July 4, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Tom Kellie]

Adamson's Falls Portraits

During most game drives we don't leave the safari van, save for early afternoon lunches in Masai Mara under spreading

shade trees. Therefore it was an unexpected pleasure to be able to walk around at Adamson's Falls, all the while under

the watchful eyes of the KWS contingent. This series of portraits includes images taken beside the Tana River and in the

safari van, when Anthony used the Sony RX1 R camera to show what animals see when the safari van parks near them.

Anthony Gitau at Adamson's Falls

Standing at Adamson's Falls

What's Up There?

That's What's Up There!

Who's Photographing Whom?

What the Lens Saw

Safari Guide as Safari Photographer

Photographers in Action in Anthony's Safari Van

Anthony's Safari Van at Adamson's Falls

Using the Sony RX1 R

Captured by Anthony's Lens

[Tom Kellie]

Vanellus spinosus

This single image of a pair of Vanellus spinosus, Spur-winged Lapwing, is the only bird species I photographed during the

hour-long stop at Adamson's Falls, aside from a swallow gliding near the falls. Herein lies a tale concerning attentiveness.

When I snapped the shutter on these birds I gave little thought to them, blithely supposing them to be Vanellus armatus,

Blacksmith Plover, which I've frequently photographed. Had I paused to more carefully consider, they're notably different,

which I only recognized half a year later. It's the first time that I've knowingly photographed this

species. A reminder to me to be more aware of what I'm observing.

Vanellus spinosus

[Tom Kellie]

Tana River Margins

For over half an hour I wandered alone along the shoreline of the Tana River. The riverbank varied from tilted sedimentary

rocks to deposits of clean, light-hued sand. The scent along the river was fresh, without any hint of decaying organic

matter. Occasionally a swallow or two would streak past, otherwise the midday heat resulted in a quiet stroll with no

fresh spoor on the sand. As elsewhere in Kenya, a riparian environment is especially rich with vegetation,

including a small ‘desert island’ created by a distinctive plant growing on a small rock in the river.

Tana River Surface at Adamson's Falls

Desert Island

Rustic Signage

At the Base of the Bridge

Flowing Past Rock Outcroppings

The Tana River Below Adamson's Falls

Varied Riparian Vegetation

Tana River Shore

Subtly Sculpted Sand Bank

Tilted and Tumbled Sedimentary Rock

Stone Outcropping and the Tana River

[Tom Kellie]

Tana River Butterflies

Walking along the sandy riverbank, camera and lens in hand, I passed under the Tana River Adamson's Falls Bridge.

Moist depressions where puddles might form during rain were brightened by a few butterflies. They were typical

safari butterflies — Catopsilia florella, African Migrant and Belenois aurota, Pioneer White — which made them

seem like long-lost old friends. I fooled around seeking the ideal shooting angle as they obligingly remained

in place, sipping life-sustaining moisture through their long, unfurled tongues.

Catopsilia florella

Tilt

Pioneer White Butterfly

Belenois aurota

[Tom Kellie]

Life Near the Tana River

Before we returned to the safari van to continue the all-day game drive, I photographed a few examples of life near the Tana River.

Smaller organisms are intrinsically delicate, surviving through wariness, specialized adaptations and camouflage. Reptiles scaling

exposed stone faces are impressive, as they effortlessly skitter along as if gravity were no more than a myth. Small winged insects

alighting on seed heads occupy a minute niche yet are no less wonderfully formed than a full-grown male elephant. Datura metel's

adaptability was shown by a small specimen vigorously blooming low to the soil adjacent to the flowing river.

Winged Visitors

A Delicate Encounter

Datura metel on the Riverbank

Rock-sitters

The Ultimate Climber

Well-camouflaged

[Kitsafari]

lovely pictures of the little creatures that make up the biodiversity in Life near the Tana River. and of course i enjoyed that series of elephant crossing.

[Tom Kellie]

lovely pictures of the little creatures that make up the biodiversity in Life near the Tana River. and of course i enjoyed that series of elephant crossing.

 

~ @@Kitsafari

 

Thank you!

The trip report is nearly finished in Meru...Samburu is next.

From bugs to elephants — Meru was a richly productive safari area.

It's beauty is such that I'm greatly looking forward to returning.

Your steady support and encouragement is highly appreciated!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Southern Meru Landscape

The long return drive back from Adamson's Falls passed through the landscape shown in these images. Kilometer after

kilometer of the dense thicket-forest growing right up to the margins of the track. No tall trees, no breaks at all in the

vegetation, no flowing water. An occasional pair of dik-diks or a rabbit would cross the track. Whydahs and a few

Paradise-Flycatchers were present. Otherwise our drive in early afternoon midday temperatures was an exercise

in solitude, which was welcome as one best appreciates the dramatic if experienced in small increments.

Southern Meru National Park Landscape

The Track Through Southern Meru

[Tom Kellie]

Varanus niloticus

The safari van slowed as it approached the submerged concrete causeway across the Rojewero River where we'd watched a

hamerkop in the morning. As it happens, my vision is limited to my right eye, thus it was fortuitous that the sudden motion

I noticed was on flat rocks to the right. I said to Anthony: ‘Stop now, please!’, which he did with finesse. An agile young

Varanus niloticus, Nile Monitor, had spotted us and was retreating. It was my first-ever encounter with this species.

A very big ‘Asante’ to Anthony for smooth coordination without any notice, resulting in these images.

Varanus niloticus

Sun-basking Nile Monitor

Nile Monitor at the Rojewero River

Rear Leg in Motion

[Tom Kellie]

Ardea goliath in the Rojewero River

After the exhilaration of spotting and photographing a Nile Monitor upon arriving at the Rojewero River, no further highlights

were expected. Yet upstream a solitary Ardea goliath, Goliath Heron, was patiently watching the surrounding water, intent on

the next course in its midday meal. The afternoon sunlight on its plumage reminded that not only is it a large bird, but also

a beautiful species. We paused to observe it in the center of the Rojewero, with Anthony praising it for its beauty.

Ardea goliath in the Rojewero

In the Center of the Rojewero

Patient Predator

[Tom Kellie]

A Few Final Meru Species

Driving along at a fairly fast rate, the effect of the mid-afternoon heat was reduced by the cool air rushing past. A final

stop was made at a shallow ford in a small stream. Both dragonflies and butterflies were there, which kept Anthony

and I busy with our cameras. Bright scarlet and deep plum colored dragonflies were headstanding near one another.

Namaqua doves watched from overhead. A single feather showed that guineafowl had passed through the area.

A Study in Scarlet

A Study in Plum

Dragonflies of a Different Color

Headstanding

Raised Toes

Perched Namaqua Doves

Evidence of Guineafowl

[Tom Kellie]

Final Meru Butterflies

At the same shallow stream ford where we stopped to photograph dragonflies there were also butterflies fluttering

around both wildflowers and plants. They were fairly easy to photograph because they seldom flew far from the

wildflowers that they favored. In one especially serendipitous image, I'd been photographing a butterfly on a

wildflower when it abruptly flew off, resulting in a portrait of it in mid-air. The nutrients they'd

must have been especially satisfying, as they scarcely moved.

On a Rock

On a Wildflower

In the Air

In a Group

On a Plant

[Tom Kellie]

Female Somali Ostrich

As it turned out, this female Somali Ostrich was the final wildlife sighting in Meru National Park, as after photographing

her we saw plants before departing through the Murera Gate. The next wildlife sightings would be in Samburu Nature

Reserve the next day. I like female ostriches because their cryptic coloration has such pleasing colors. This ostrich

was alone as far as we could see. She was mildly interested in us but soon went on her way, as did we.

Harlequin Plumage

Clear-eyed

Female Somali Ostrich on a Hot Afternoon

[Atravelynn]

"Anthony commented that he's seldom seen such skittish African Buffalo."

I wonder if they had been in a hunting area recently.

 

You're going to have to work on your "rock star poses" for future equator crossings.

 

You've explored Meru from insects to infrastructure and of course everything in between.

 

Does your "eye" apply to Greater Kudu as well? How fortunate to see Lesser Kudu.

 

You'll have to share this report with your student travelmate. It will serve as memories to savor and elegant prose to improve writing skills!

[Tom Kellie]

Layered Acacias in Murera Plains

These are the final images taken during our visit to Meru National Park. I asked Anthony to stop so that I

might photograph the layered acacias growing together. I'd never seen trees like that else in Meru or in

any other location in Kenya. The appear to share a common genetic heritage. The Murera Plains are

by and large flat, with distance mountains serving as a visual barrier. No game, no birds, no

other vehicles. Plenty of sunshine and happy memories for all.

All of a Kind

A Layered Species

The Track Through the Murera Plains

Murera Plains Landscape

[Tom Kellie]

Murera Gate Scenes

At last it was time to say farewell to Meru National Park, albeit with the hope of someday returning for a third visit. These

images were made at the Murera Gate while Anthony went through the check-out process. There were many walking

on the road as a religious meeting was going on in a tent not far inside the gate. We'd seen almost no other vehicles

anywhere during our visit, which mirrored my experience visiting Meru with Anthony in October, 2014.

Carved Park Sign

Sliding Windows

Walking Near the Gate

Park Map on a Painted Rock

[Tom Kellie]

After the Game Drive

The all-day game drive to Adamson's Falls and back went far longer than anticipated, exhausting both

Anthony and Ni in the process. Our late lunch under the trees was largely eaten in silence, with a few

wan smiles and soft comments. The fine lunch which had been kept for us reinvigorated flagging

spirits. I was delighted to see the Murera Springs Eco-Lodge's signature dessert of honey-passion

sauce on a cake. We returned to our separate lodgings for a welcome rest.

Post-Game Drive Recovery

Salad with Mango

Welcome Repast

Honey-Passion Sauce

Trees for Better Lives

Steps Up to the Tented Room

View from the Porch

[Tom Kellie]

After Dinner Performance

Our dinner was eaten long after sundown, under the spreading trees around the facilities of the Murera Springs

Eco-Lodge. After dinner the staff surprised me with a ‘welcome back cake’. They sang and danced around the

dinner table with joyous enthusiasm. These images show the musical instruments and performers. Later yet I

sat by the campfire, talking with the lodge manager, Joseph, about Meru National Park and Kenya's

tourism industry. As we talked, bushbabies overhead made their raucous calls.

Drumbeat

Lively Dance

Serenade

After Dinner

[Tom Kellie]

Murera Springs Eco-Lodge in the Morning

Before breakfast, I freshened up, went outside, walked around the camp, and took these photographs. My intent was

to capture the feeling of morning in the Murera Springs Eco-Lodge in order to let others appreciate its charm. It was

a cool morning, thus comfortable to be out and about. We were facing a morning drive to Samburu, thus stretching

my legs was a priority. The ecologically sound planning of Murera Springs Eco-Lodge is impressive

to experience, as is the care with which it's maintained by the very genial staff.

For Freshening Up

Murera Springs Eco-Lodge

Path Through the Camp

Conversation Area and Campfire Pit

Path to My Quarters

Lounge and Library

Anthony in the Dining Area

Where Is Everyone?

[Tom Kellie]

Murera Springs Eco-Lodge Staff

Before entering the safari van to begin the drive to Samburu, I asked the lodge manager, Joseph, if the staff would pose

for a farewell portrait. He, Zach, the kitchen staff and guards very graciously posed, making jokes and giving us a warm

send-off. One of the best aspects of the Murera Springs Eco-Lodge is the cordial staff. Their warmth, sincerity and

friendliness motivated me to return for a second stay and causes me to hope for another visit in the future.

Anthony and Ni with the Staff

[Tom Kellie]

Departure from the Murera Springs Eco-Lodge

Our farewells and hearty thanks given, Anthony drove the safari van up the steep, foliage covered lane to the main road.

Eco-Lodge manager, Joseph, rode with us. The lane passes large bushes where birds are seen, continuing through

farmland where corn and bananas are cultivated. I took several photos of the signage so that any future visitors might

easily recognize the turnoff to the lane leading down to the Eco-Lodge. We were then on our way to Samburu!

Murera Springs Eco-Lodge Gate

Farmland along the Lane to the Road

View to the Road

The Eco-Lodge's Road Sign

[elefromoz]

@@Tom Kellie, way back at post 167, just beautiful images of Wild Dog on the track, so so lucky. We were in Mkomazi a few years back, which shares its border with Tsavo West, and I had the briefest "ghost like" sighting of a Wild Dog there, so I'm still holding out for a sighting like yours one day. A quick re-read of the GAWPT site says that there has been a number of re-introductions by Tony Fitz into the area over the last couple of years, and confirmed sightings of "his" Dogs, hopefully it's paying off and this much maligned, persecuted animal is getting a second chance.