Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[Tom Kellie]

Mt. Kenya at Dawn

When staying at the Samburu Sopa Lodge, if the early morning weather is nearly pristine it's possible to observe Mt. Kenya

to the southwest. On this morning at 6:42 am these images were made, with the earliest sunrays visible on the rocky

flanks of Mt. Kenya. Such clear air over many kilometers is a joy to observe, sharply contrasting with the skies

where I live. The layered look of the distant ridges and of Mt. Kenya itself had a

calm, solid look which reflected geological continuity.

Mt. Kenya from Outside My Room

Mt. Kenya at Dawn

[Tom Kellie]

 

 

Mt. Kilimanjaro

The morning of the safari's fourth day was blessed with a

cloudless appearance of Mt. Kilimanjaro. The ‘Roof of Africa’

consists of three volcanic cones, Kibo, Mawenzi and Shira.

Uhuru Peak is the 5,888 meter summit on the crater rim

of Kibo, which remains dormant but may someday awake.

Mt. Kilimanjaro Uhuru Summit.JPG

Mt. Kilimanjaro Uhuru Summit

Kibo — Uhuru Summit.JPG

Kibo — Uhuru Summit

Western Upper Slope.JPG

Western Upper Slope

Eastern Upper Slope.JPG

Eastern Upper Slope

Mawenzi.JPG

Mawenzi

Mt.Kilimanjaro Summit Panorama.JPG

Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit Panorama

 

@@Tom Kellie

I wanted to comment after finishing the full report but after seeing your shots of the "shy" mountain, i couldnt resist congratulating you. Great pictures. Actually great pictures of everything that you have posted.

 

 

~ @@Earthian

 

Thank you very much.

I've just uploaded portraits of another mountain — Mt. Kenya — made outside of my room in Samburu National Reserve.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Around the Lodge Before the Game Drive

While waiting for Anthony to begin the morning game drive, I strolled around the grounds of the Samburu Sopa Lodge. As ever,

a rich variety of avian species were present, several of which I'd never seen before nor since. Spreo fischeri, Fischer's Starling

and the migratory visitor, Sylvia nisoria, Barred Warbler, were entirely unfamiliar to me. That they would be observed this once

and never again suggests the need to regularly observe all birds in the lodge environs as otherwise

one may never be sure whether or not an unfamiliar species might be present.

Vulturine Guineafowl at the Waterhole

Morning Cling

In Sequence

A Common Bulbul's Uncommon Yellow

Sylvia nisoria

Resting Goshawk

Spreo fischeri

[Marks]

 

 

 

Honestly one of the "cutest" leopards I've seen. I think it's something about her small face coupled with large eyes and an exaggerated snout.

[Tom Kellie]

Morning Oryx

Shortly after the morning game drive commenced a herd of Oryx beisa was encountered, grazing on both sides

of the red earth track. There were three young oryx together, all with short horns. The young stick together, as

with humans, perhaps due to shared interests and a common skill development level. The morning sunlight

streamed in at an angle which accentuated the smooth curves of the oryx. They're a photogenic

species, yielding pleasing images due to their graceful form.

Oryx Calf

Morning Grazing

Juvenile Oryx Trio

Quiet Samburu Morning

Where Oryx Graze

Beside a Red Earth Track

Running Oryx

Oryx Pair

Fine Strands

Pleasing Geometry

A Profile Like No Other

[Tom Kellie]

Honestly one of the "cutest" leopards I've seen. I think it's something about her small face coupled with large eyes and an exaggerated snout.

 

~ @@Marks

 

That's such an encouraging comment.

Thank you very much for saying so.

You've expressed the essence of her appeal. I was unable to put it into words, but you've done the job!

She had a charm which captivated both Anthony and I during the period we tracked her.

Evidence that even adult predators have the possibility of being cute, upon occasion, if one isn't their intended prey.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Lepus capensis

Credit for spotting this Lepus capensis is owed to XU Ni, who brought it to our attention. Aside from Nairobi National

Park by night, Samburu is where I've most regularly observed Cape Hares. Their immense staring eyes stand out at

a distance. What sophisticated low light vision they must have! This particular hare was in no hurry to hide,

remaining visible in the morning light for these images to be made. With numerous predators about,

a Cape Hare must be especially wily and vigilant in order to survive.

Standing Cape Hare

Lepus capensis

Hare Beside a Thicket

The Cryptic Coloration of a Hare

[Tom Kellie]

Helogale parvula in a Termite Mound

A Samburu feature is the widespread presence of Helogale parvula, Dwarf Mongoose. The morning game drive soon

included a stop at a large red earth termite mound which serves as home for an active troupe of Dwarf Mongoose.

While they might not be genuinely habituated to human visitors, these particular Dwarf Mongoose offered no overt

signs of anxiety. Petite, full of energy and inquisitive, Helogale parvula is one of my Samburu favorites, as they

contrast well with the red soil, yielding especially attractive images. I've yet to ever observe them eating.

Helogale parvula in a Termite Mound

A Pair of Helogale parvula

A Look-See

Between Red Spires

In Threes

Inquisitive Glance

Dwarf Mongoose at Home

Doubling Up

Full-length Dwarf Mongoose

Edited August 11, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Tom Kellie]

Tockus erythrorhynchus with a Bark Chip

Without far more extensive background understanding, elementary avian behavior baffles. While on safari I have very

limited interest in identifying bird species, feeling that there will be uninterrupted months in Beijing for doing so. Rather,

my primary interest is in behavior, with an instinctive rejection of facile explanations predicated on anthropomorphic

assumptions. Hence when one of these two Tockus erythrorhynchus, Red-billed Hornbill, toyed with a bark chip, I

was grateful that Anthony and Ni refrained from conventional explanations for the behavior.

Toying with a Bark Chip

Tockus erythrorhynchus

Edited August 11, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Tom Kellie]

Buff-crested Bustard

A small female Eupodotis gindiana, Buff-crested Bustard, was walking beside the track. She had the slow,

chicken-like gait often shown by bustards, bobbing her head with each step. I feel that I know too little

about bustards. I'm less interested in the type of species-specific facts provided by birders, and more

interested in careful descriptions of behavior provided by patient observers. Bustards fill an ecological

niche, yet I feel woefully unaware of what they do. Nonetheless, it's a joy to observe bustards

during a safari, their bright eyes reflecting an innate intelligence.

Ballerina

Buff-crested Bustard

[Tom Kellie]

Acryllium vulturinum

No visit to Samburu National Reserve would be complete without a stop to admire the lean beauty of Acryllium vulturinum,

Vulturine Guineafowl. Their intensely dark cobalt blue plumage sets off their elongated necks. The group which we saw

on that morning was conscious of our presence without betraying any anxiety. Unlike the Helmeted Guineafowl, the

Vulturine Guineafowl seem to lack a nervous quality. They're at their finest, for photography purposes,

in the morning, with sunrays streaming towards them at a steep angle.

Acryllium vulturinum

Vulturine Guineafowl

Striding in the Undergrowth

Back of the Neck

Eye-to-Eye

A Samburu Specialty

Contemplative Guineafowl

Among Friends

[Tom Kellie]

Giraffe in the Uplands

The Reticulated Giraffe in Samburu National Reserve are free-ranging, traveling hither and yon in search of nourishment.

They also visit the highlands, albeit somewhat less frequently. On the occasion of our morning game drive a giraffe was

wandering among acacia trees. What particularly struck me was the glistening of the acacia foliage as plangent morning

sunrays reflected from the leaf surface. The giraffe moved with steady grace, unhurried and calm,

not unlike the atmosphere of Samburu away from the Ewaso Nyiro River.

The Lightness of Acacia Foliage

Trees Capture Sunlight

In the Uplands

[pault]

The colour of the dwarf mongooses is interesting. Their heads are almost the same colour as banded mongooses but the bodies are the reddish coat I know.

 

I am enjoying Samburu. I always plan a return but never make it. Even back when I went it was surrounded by scrappy inhabited bush destroyed by grazing but it was really striking and beautiful and the bull elephants were huge and red - some with mammoth tusks.

 

Did you visit Buffalo Springs? Okay, I should wait and see.

[Tom Kellie]

Impala Bachelor Herd

This impala bachelor herd was in a glade not far from the Ewaso Nyiro River. When we encountered them, they were

lightly grazing, glancing up at us. A few of the younger males briefly ran as if we constituted a threat. The older males

remained steady such that soon calm prevailed. What is the transition process by which a young male impala leaves its

mother to become a bachelor herd member? Is there any sort of emotional wrenching experienced by

individual male impala? I see them on every safari yet understand them far too little.

Samburu Male Impala

Impala and Dry Grass

Viewed Against Brightly Lit Foliage

Variations on Tawny Brown

Adapted for Running and Leaping

What Thoughts They Have

[Tom Kellie]

The colour of the dwarf mongooses is interesting. Their heads are almost the same colour as banded mongooses but the bodies are the reddish coat I know.

 

I am enjoying Samburu. I always plan a return but never make it. Even back when I went it was surrounded by scrappy inhabited bush destroyed by grazing but it was really striking and beautiful and the bull elephants were huge and red - some with mammoth tusks.

 

Did you visit Buffalo Springs? Okay, I should wait and see.

 

~ @@pault

 

The timing of your question is both impeccable and uncanny.

It should be added that a visit to Buffalo Springs two weeks ago was one of the most productive game drives I've ever experienced.

For me, Samburu is the one place on which I'm able to rely for beauty and thrills.

Were I to bring a reluctant family member to only a single safari destination, it would be Samburu, which never disappoints.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Aquila rapax

I asked Anthony to stop when this Aquila rapax, Tawny Eagle, was spotted beside the track. Samburu has a healthy population

of Aquila rapax which may be relied on to appear on any given day. The large eagle was concentrating on the ground yet

ultimately flew off without any prey in its talons. Several times it glanced in our direction yet showed no apparent concern.

What must it be like to be able to loft heavenwards on strong wings at whim? Although I'll

never know such freedom, it thrilled me to observe the Aquila rapax in flight.

Aquila rapax in Samburu

Full-face View

Looking Downward

Taking Wing

Aquila rapax in Flight

Soaring Away

[Kitsafari]

what a lovely leopard! with such big eyes and slender muscled body. she looks very young. i'm just amazed how they can balance perfectly at the top of the tree on such thin branches.

 

and I love that series of dwarf mongoose, especially when you caught the moment of 3 of them popping out of the holes!

[Tom Kellie]

Merops albicollis

After the large Aquila rapax flew away we continued on, soon stopping again when this Merops albicollis was spotted

beside the track. We'd observed and photographed others of its species the preceding evening as they caught

butterflies. What was noteworthy about this bee-eater was its extended stay on one perch, facilitating close

range photography in bright morning sunlight. In each safari in Kenya, bee-eaters have been an especially

prominent source of enjoyment, both due to their activity and due to their striking beauty.

Merops albicollis

Unruffled

Beautiful

Poet's Muse

[Tom Kellie]

what a lovely leopard! with such big eyes and slender muscled body. she looks very young. i'm just amazed how they can balance perfectly at the top of the tree on such thin branches.

 

and I love that series of dwarf mongoose, especially when you caught the moment of 3 of them popping out of the holes!

 

~ @@Kitsafari

 

It's so nice of you to notice and comment on the female leopard's exquisite balance.

As she moved about, never once did she falter, so finely honed was her equipoise.

Those zany dwarf mongoose tickled us with their antics! In and out, up and down!

Our late friend @@graceland once exchanged messages with me to the effect that watching animals on safari is a form of healing.

I fully agree. Observing a lady leopard on a tree branch or being amused by dwarf mongoose hijinks soothes the bruises of life.

I'm so glad that you liked the most recently posted images.

Thank you!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Xerus rutilis

Both around the grounds of the Samburu Sopa Lodge and throughout Samburu National Reserve there are large

numbers of Xerus rutilis, Unstriped Ground Squirrel, running from one hiding place to another. This particular

ground squirrel was the rare exception, remaining in one place long enough to facilitate portrait photos. We

observed it for more than one minute, during which it never changed position. Ground squirrels add liveliness to

otherwise static landscapes, as they typically are observed in motion, thereby avoiding the numerous predators in the area.

Unstriped Ground Squirrel

Xerus rutilis

[Tom Kellie]

Low Water Ewaso Nyiro River

The Ewaso Nyiro River was at low water throughout our visit to Samburu and Buffalo Springs. What had once been

an actively flowing river was reduced to a trickle. To Anthony's surprise, the damaged bridge linking Samburu with

Buffalo Springs was open again after a couple of years of post-flood closure. After chatting with the security guards,

Anthony drove out on the bridge, pausing for photos taken upriver and downriver. It was striking

how reduced the flow was, with reduced crocodile and bird habitat.

Water Shortage

Upriver View, Buffalo Springs on the Right

Looking Out Over Buffalo Springs

Severely Reduced Flow

Repaired Bridge Visible

Downriver View

Dove in Flight

Remains of a River

Samburu Viewed from Buffalo Springs

[Tom Kellie]

Scenes Upon Entering Buffalo Springs

These images are the first I made after crossing the bridge into Buffalo Springs National Reserve for the first time. With fewer trees

and less mountains or hills, there was a different feeling. I had no idea of what to expect. There were no other vehicles present.

The wildlife activity was high, with animals going down to the remnant of the Ewaso Nyiro River for water. A pair of Oena capensis,

Namaqua Dove interested me. I'd never realized that the plumage under their wings was a rich chestnut-orange hue.

Buffalo Springs Reticulated Giraffe

Impala and Waterbuck on the Buffalo Springs Side

Baboon, Waterbuck and Impala

Namaqua Dove Pair

Female Namaqua Dove

Namaqua Dove in Flight

[Tom Kellie]

Near the Ewaso Nyiro River

What had happened to the once mighty Ewaso Nyiro River, where I'd previously observed crocodiles feasting on impala carcasses?

The small pools and trickle of a flow afforded little more than natural plunge pools for cavorting baboons. A pair of impala grazed

above as the baboons carried on in the nearly dry river course. The male impala's impressive horns caught me admiring attention.

Any animal, no matter how small, might easily cross the Ewaso Nyiro under such conditions. How would

local elephants obtain sufficient daily water to quench their prodigious thirst?

Baboons Near the River

Grazing by the River

Splashing About

Entering the River

Magnificent Horns

[Tom Kellie]

Repaired Buffalo Springs – Samburu Bridge

A major flood had damaged the bridge across the Ewaso Nyiro River, linking Samburu National Reserve with Buffalo Springs National Reserve.

The unrepaired bridge had prevented any visit to Buffalo Springs during two previous visits to Samburu. This visit was different in that the

bridge had been repaired and was open for business. Anthony spoke to the security staff who told him that it had recently been repaired.

We thus drove across from Samburu County to Isiolo County. These images show the newly repaired bridge, as taken from the Samburu side.

Repaired Bridge

Buffalo Springs Terminus

Samburu Terminus

[Earthian]

@@Tom Kellie

excellent report. Your attention to detail and capturing all wild life, irrespective of popularity or fancy, is truly commendable. Your report shows that you are not not only a true academician, but more importantly passionate about Nature.

The photograph of the bee eater was vivid and sharp btw.

If and when we go there, i am sure all of us will have a feeling of deja vu.