Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie

excellent report. Your attention to detail and capturing all wild life, irrespective of popularity or fancy, is truly commendable. Your report shows that you are not not only a true academician, but more importantly passionate about Nature.

The photograph of the bee eater was vivid and sharp btw.

If and when we go there, i am sure all of us will have a feeling of deja vu.

 

~ @@Earthian

 

What a generous comment!

That's surely one of the most encouraging remarks I've received while writing this trip report.

Thank you so much for giving fresh wind beneath my wings!

I'm so pleased that you liked the bee-eater portraits.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Buffalo Springs Vegetation

Immediately after crossing the repaired bridge we turned left. An impala herd was passing through a shady spot. They were notably

calm in our presence, which I've noticed about the impala I've observed during other Samburu visits. Looking back across the Ewaso

Nyiro riverbed towards Samburu gave a fresh perspective on the trees there. Buffalo Springs itself had healthy vegetation, including

an exceptionally lovely spreading acacia tree which brought to mind the Joyce Kilmer verse ‘Trees’.

Buffalo Springs Impala Herd

Samburu Trees Seen from Buffalo Springs

View Across the River to Samburu

Looking Downriver to the Repaired Bridge

Buffalo Springs Vegetation Near the River

For Joyce Kilmer

Thriving Vegetation

[Tom Kellie]

Vervet Monkey in Buffalo Springs

While it's a normal occurrence that many species have solitary members, sometimes sighting a lone animal raises questions.

This Chlorocebus pygerythrus, Vervet Monkey, appeared to be alone on a snag, no others visible. When I was a graduate

student, facile rationales were blithely tossed out for such a sighting. With age, I feel less certain that any conjecture I

might propose would be valid in the absence of substantial supporting observations. The monkey

evinced mild curiosity about us, with a noticeable lack of anxiety signs.

Vervet Monkey on a Snag

The Charm of the Small

[Tom Kellie]

Two Lionesses on the Opposite Bank

Anthony paused, softly asking: “See the lions?” A pair of lionesses was on the top of the red earth bank on the other side

of the Ewaso Nyiro River. Thus these images show lions in Samburu National Reserve as observed and photographed

from Buffalo Springs National Reserve. Have I been on enough safaris that I'm habituated to the presence of lions?

Their presence seemed utterly natural — thrilling to see but not in any sense surprising. Samburu has become in

my mind a location where big cats roam, thus seeing them is in keeping with the spirit of the place.

Arrival of a Lioness

Two of a Kind

Watchers on the Bank

[Tom Kellie]

Unaware of Nearby Lionesses

Having watched the two lionesses on the opposite bank of the Ewaso Nyiro River, it was gripping to watch several types of herd

animals very near them. The oryx, impala and Grant's gazelle we observed were in very close proximity to the lionesses,

presumably without being aware of the predators. Samburu is relatively compact, yet so much occurs within its precincts.

The cycle of life visible anywhere on safari seems to be especially concentrated in Samburu,

where docile herds live cheek by jowl with an active predator population.

Oryx and Impala

Departing Oryx

Grant's Gazelle in a Dry Riverbed

Unaware of Nearby Lions

[Ben mosquito]

Of return since a few days of our safari in Kenya it's so wonderful to follow you in your trip report. The atmosphere so special of Samburu is in your photos there.
Thanks for sharing!

[Tom Kellie]

Of return since a few days of our safari in Kenya it's so wonderful to follow you in your trip report. The atmosphere so special of Samburu is in your photos there.

Thanks for sharing!

 

~ @@Ben mosquito

 

It's really kind of you to write such nice words to me!

As you really know Meru and Samburu, your support means a lot to me.

I'm delighted that these photos and comments are meaningful to you!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Buffalo Springs Reticulated Giraffe

A small family group of Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata, Reticulated Giraffe, was browsing around a large dead tree.

We stopped to observe them, drove on to another area, then saw them again when we retraced our route. From

their reaction, one had the sense that they may not have been habituated to safari vehicles. They appeared to be

both curious and perplexed by our presence, ceasing their browsing activity to look at us. Their beauty under

clear blue skies was one of the most striking scenes I've ever been privileged to see firsthand in Kenya.

Buffalo Springs Reticulated Giraffe

Idyllic Setting

Buffalo Springs Giraffe Quartet

Polygon Dappled

Dazzling Design!

Asymmetrical

The Celebrated Long Neck

Tranquil Group

Roadwork

[Earthian]

@@Tom Kellie

The photographs are very good. The neck shot of the giraffe from behind is particularly beautiful. An unusual angle with clear and sharp images.

[Tom Kellie]

Frozen

This single photograph is the remaining evidence of a story. As we drove along @@XU Ni said that he'd seen something

large move into bushes. He then pointed out this mother impala with baby, pointedly noting that both animals were

standing stock-still, not so much as flickering a muscle. He added that he was certain that they were afraid of

whatever it was that he'd briefly seen pass into the bushes growing towards the river. Even as we slowly

moved past them, the impala mother and fawn remained motionless. Why?

Frozen

[Tom Kellie]

Buffalo Springs Lionesses

Here's why the impala mother and fawn were standing stock-still — a pair of lionesses were hunting! The excellent sighting and analysis

of their behavior by @@XU Ni directed our attention to the bluffs overlooking the nearly dry Ewaso Nyiro riverbed where we observed a

pair of lionesses surveying the territory. The lionesses beneath doum palms was an impressive sight. They were completely focussed

on looking over the area, seemingly indifferent to our presence. Thus it was self-evident why the response

of the impala pair was to remain as motionless as possible.

Here's Why!

Flanks

Surveying the Riverbed

Standing on the Bluff

Lioness and Ewaso Nyiro Riverbed

Doum Palms and Lioness

[Tom Kellie]

Dried-up Ewaso Nyiro River

The reality of very low water in the Ewaso Nyiro River was plain to see. Animals were affected by the diminished

water flow. Wherever we drove, looking back toward the river was unsettling, as its wide banks and bed were

evident, yet water amounted to little more than pools here and there. There's a sad quality about a once

vigorous river which runs out of water. It's purpose gone, it represents a memory of life-giving water,

now gone. How do species cope with such profound environmental shifts?

Egyptian Geese and a Marabou Stork

Ewaso Nyiro Course in January, 2015

Buffalo Springs and the Ewaso Nyiro

Dried-up River

[Tom Kellie]

Aquila rapax by the River

One hesitates to make a blanket statement that this or that species is characteristic of any given location, as seasonal

changes are often substantial, and contingencies influence what may or may not be observed during a safari.

Nevertheless in every visit to Samburu, in different seasons, Aquila rapax, Tawny Eagle, has been observed

in substantial numbers. There must be a healthy breeding population, as the eagles are readily observed

along the river course, both in snags and trees, and on the ground.

Aquila rapax at the Dry Riverbed

Aquila rapax on a Snag

[Tom Kellie]

Buffalo Springs Vultures

A substantial benefit from interacting with others through Safaritalk has been the raising of awareness of wildlife conservation

issues. One of those concerns the decreasing populations of vultures, due to various factors including the use of veterinary

drugs which adversely affect vultures. Therefore it was a special joy to observe a healthy vulture population in Buffalo Springs

National Reserve. A number of larger trees served as roosts for the vultures, which flew back and forth from one tree to another.

Perched Near the River

Space for a Fresh Arrival

Throughout the Trees

Vultures in Buffalo Springs National Reserve

[Tom Kellie]

Passer gongonensis

While we were doubling back on a track which would bring us near the river again, a small flock of noisy birds appeared

in bushes around the track. We stopped to observe them. They were Passer gongonensis, Parrot-billed Sparrow, which

I'd never previously seen. There was also a solitary Amadina fasciata, Cut-throat Finch, on a snag near the sparrows.

When field guides note that bird species are widespread, I wonder how it is that I rarely or never encounter them.

Could it be that I'm inattentive to less conspicuous species around me?

Passer gongonensis in an Acacia

Parrot-billed Sparrow

Passer gongonensis

A Little Less Noise, Please

Female Amadina fasciata

[Marks]

Your photos really demonstrate the dramatic shift in water levels.

 

I am especially transported by your giraffe shots, though; you have really given these animals a chance to shine.

[Earthian]

@@Tom Kellie

 

you could not be more wrong when you make this statement:

 

Could it be that I'm inattentive to less conspicuous species around me?

 

As said previously, i believe that you have no bias in regards to flora and fauna- that is what i get from reading your TR

[SafariChick]

@@Tom Kellie absolutely love the photo series of the elephants fording the river in post 508, the dust bath photos in 514 and the close-ups of the elephant in 517. Wonderful sense of intimacy. Continuing to love the report, and still have much catching up to do!

[SafariChick]

@@Tom Kellie also loved the photos of the running buffalo with the little calves in post 521- so sweet and young. Loved the colors and the motion, you could really feel their skittishness through the photos.

 

The dragonflies of post 564 are gorgeous. I'm not a big insect fan but dragonflies are an insect I have always felt drawn to. Perhaps I notice them even more now because they are one of my dog, Dusty's favorite toys - he gets endless entertainment out of chasing them at the park, and, fortunately for them, he never catches one. But these are so beautifully colored compared to ours at home. I'm sure if Dusty saw one he'd be even more enchanted than he is with the usual kind.

Edited August 15, 2015 by SafariChick

[Peter Connan]

I have fallen a bit behind, but am still really enjoying this trip report @@Tom Kellie

 

I really like the various mongooses and squirrelsin the last few pages, as well as the bee-eaters.

 

The tree captioned "for Joice Kilmer" is stunningly beautiful. I wish I could sit in it's shade, staring up intoit's branches for a few hours.

Edited August 15, 2015 by Peter Connan

[Tom Kellie]

Ciconia nigra

Despite the Esawo Nyiro River being nearly bereft of water flow, there was adequate standing water in isolated pools for

water birds to gather. A black heron and a small sandpiper were close to one another. A first-ever sighting was a solitary

Ciconia nigra, Black Stork. When the safari van approached the bluff above the dry riverbed, the Black Stork took to

wing, flying off to a more secluded location. The characteristic red bill and black plumage

caused it to stand out from any comparable species.

Heron and Sandpiper

Ciconia nigra

Black Stork

[Tom Kellie]

Your photos really demonstrate the dramatic shift in water levels.

 

I am especially transported by your giraffe shots, though; you have really given these animals a chance to shine.

 

~ @@Marks

 

That's really thoughtful of you to mention the giraffes.

The reticulated giraffes throughout Samburu and Buffalo Springs are stunning in every context.

Their natural grace, gorgeous coat patterns and relatively calm presence adds to the wonder of the area.

Every safari, indeed every game drive, giraffes are a reliable feature, enhancing the magnificence of the East African biosphere.

I love observing them, noticing small differences in their facial characteristics.

Thank you so much for your very kind comment.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie

 

you could not be more wrong when you make this statement:

 

Could it be that I'm inattentive to less conspicuous species around me?

 

As said previously, i believe that you have no bias in regards to flora and fauna- that is what i get from reading your TR

 

~ @@Earthian

 

You're so thoughtful in your supportive comments.

Many, many thanks!

When I was young I once briefly lived in Arcata, California, far up on the northwest coast of California.

They staged an ‘All-Species Parade’ in which children dressed as the less fuzzy, less cute, less lovable organisms, the underlying idea being that all components of the biosphere are significant.

Thus flora and fauna of all sorts are of high interest on safari, as each is a critical element in the overall whole.

With Appreciation,

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie also loved the photos of the running buffalo with the little calves in post 521- so sweet and young. Loved the colors and the motion, you could really feel their skittishness through the photos.

 

The dragonflies of post 564 are gorgeous. I'm not a big insect fan but dragonflies are an insect I have always felt drawn to. Perhaps I notice them even more now because they are one of my dog, Dusty's favorite toys - he gets endless entertainment out of chasing them at the park, and, fortunately for them, he never catches one. But these are so beautifully colored compared to ours at home. I'm sure if Dusty saw one he'd be even more enchanted than he is with the usual kind.

 

~ @@SafariChick

 

Those running buffalo were one of the most unusual sights on any of my safaris. My guide, Anthony, mentioned that their ultra-skittish behavior was considerably out of the ordinary.

Had we more information about the herd's past week, we might better have understood what spooked them. Certainly the presence of fairly young calves, yet we've often encountered other herds with calves who didn't react as they did.

We wondered if there might have been a very recent predator attack on the herd. Anthony and I had personally observed a pair of leopards in that area on a previous visit to Meru.

If Dusty was able to snatch a dragonfly in mid-air, that would be remarkable!

Their nearly all-around vision and highly adaptable flight is such that they're capable of evading all but the canniest predators.

The brilliant colors of Meru's dragonflies are one of the highlights of any game drive there. Just a few weeks ago I returned to Meru and once again was beguiled by the dragonflies resting in a certain small brook.

One particular dragonfly which I observed last month stood out for its brilliant blue and glistening golden hues. Stunning!

Thank you so much for your very thoughtful and generous comments!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

I have fallen a bit behind, but am still really enjoying this trip report @@Tom Kellie

 

I really like the various mongooses and squirrelsin the last few pages, as well as the bee-eaters.

 

The tree captioned "for Joice Kilmer" is stunningly beautiful. I wish I could sit in it's shade, staring up intoit's branches for a few hours.

 

~ @@Peter Connan

 

Thank you so much for mentioning those images.

The ‘little guys’ are every bit as charming as the larger ungulates and their associated predators.

The challenge in safari photography is to adequately convey the wealth of wildlife, such that those who haven't yet gone on safari might have a fairly clear idea of what it's like.

The great tree at Buffalo Springs, which overlooks the Ewaso Nyiro River, is a classic.

Were I a watercolorist, it's the East African tree which I'd most like to depict.

Through the decades of its life, that tree must have hosted so many birds and mammals. What stories it could tell, had it a voice.

I'm so pleased that you noticed and liked that image!

Tom K.