Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[pault]

Very nice visiting Adamson's Falls through someone else's eyes. It is definitely a long way from where you were staying. ove the "what the animals see" shots! Haha.

 

The apparent tidiness of the river banks is surprising since they were very messy with flood debris when we were there only a year before.you.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie, way back at post 167, just beautiful images of Wild Dog on the track, so so lucky. We were in Mkomazi a few years back, which shares its border with Tsavo West, and I had the briefest "ghost like" sighting of a Wild Dog there, so I'm still holding out for a sighting like yours one day. A quick re-read of the GAWPT site says that there has been a number of re-introductions by Tony Fitz into the area over the last couple of years, and confirmed sightings of "his" Dogs, hopefully it's paying off and this much maligned, persecuted animal is getting a second chance.

 

~ @@elefromoz

 

Thank you!

We felt blessed by the wholly unexpected encounter — on our way out, no less.

I'm unfamiliar with either GAWPT or Tony Fitz and lack unrestricted search engines here.

The wild dogs we saw certainly seemed vigorous.

They're a species that I'd never thought about seeing, so the encounter was an eye-opener.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Very nice visiting Adamson's Falls through someone else's eyes. It is definitely a long way from where you were staying. ove the "what the animals see" shots! Haha.

 

The apparent tidiness of the river banks is surprising since they were very messy with flood debris when we were there only a year before.you.

 

~ @@pault

 

It's very nice of you — a Meru veteran — to look through these images.

Yes, it was a bit of a drive. My two safari companions were fairly worn out by the time we returned back to the Eco-Lodge.

Ha! I frequently wonder what the subjects think, or how they feel, when round, dark lenses are pointed in their direction.

A safari van with figures standing in it must be a queer sight to them as it's unlike anything else in their daily round, aside from other safari vehicles.

Could it be that the Tana River's banks had been scoured clean by earlier heavy rains — or — when I was there was the water so high as to obscure the trash beneath?

Neither explanation makes any sense, right? Had a large scout troop been there and picked up every piece of litter in the name of ‘a cleaner Kenya is a more charming Kenya’?

I truly don't know, other than to reaffirm to you that strolling along the riverbank it was striking that no trace of human litter was visible.

Then again, it might be attributable to nothing more than fortuitously being in the ideal section of the river on an ideal afternoon.

In any case, it was a highlight of the safari. I doubt that I'd ever have a second opportunity to visit, but would truly love to do so.

Thank you for your comment!

Tom K.

[elefromoz]

@@Tom Kellie, beautiful images of Kili, particularly of the Eles in the foreground, that's the one everyone wants! Great photos putting the size of Kilimanjaro into perspective, she's huge, can't imagine why 20,000+ people a year attempt to summit. So spectacular from ground level on a good day. Love the swamp and lakes of Amboseli, lovely water birds and thigh deep Eles. I hope your lucky students adopt your sensitivity and passion to the wonders around them. Oh and really enjoyed the Jackel and Eagle tussle.

[pault]

@@Tom Kellie I suspect the scout theory may be the one (or rather rangers). It's not that people had littered there, just some stuff washed down the river and into the park by floods and then left to sit there after the river level fell. Wasn't much but I was glad to see it apparently gone in your photos!

[michael-ibk]

Very much enjoyed the Meru part, Tom - it´s a great park I´d like to re-visit sometime soon, my 2 nights stay there was criminally short. Again, lovely to see Murera Springs Eco Lodge and staff.

[Tom Kellie]

Meru to Isiolo to Archer's Post

The drive from Meru National Park to Samburu National Reserve was intended to reach the Samburu Sopa

Lodge in time for lunch, which did occur. These images were taken out of the window as we went on the the

downgrade into Isiolo County then continued past Isiolo town towards Archer's Post and thence on into

Samburu National Reserve. The Nyambeni Hills are visible in several photos, as are small settlements

of pastoralists who also sell sacked charcoal sitting on piles of stone beside the road.

On the Downgrade After Ntugi

Nyambeni Hills

Roadside Trees North of Isiolo

En Route to Archer's Post

Settlement and Nyambeni Hills

Isiolo County Vista

Arid Tree Species

Goats Feeding Under Trees

Community with Charcoal for Sale

[Tom Kellie]

Samburu National Reserve

Archer's Post Gate

We arrived at the Archer's Post Gate of Samburu National Reserve at around 1:30 pm. in fairly warm temperatures. Around the

gate are interpretive signs, maps, sun-bleached bones and tortoise shells, and the horns of several species. A pair of small cats

by the gate was a harbinger of what was to come, albeit on a diminutive scale. As it was midday there were almost no birds

in evidence unlike during my two previous visits. I told XU Ni that in Samburu the action was sure to occur...and it did!

Samburu National Reserve Sign

Where Nature Defies Itself

Samburu Archer's Post Gate

Light Purple-Grey Succulent

At Archer's Post Gate

Assorted Horns

Samburu's Not-So-Famous Small Cats

Remains

From Various Species

Memorial Signs

Sun-bleached Tortoise Shells

Blooming Acacia Providing Shade

KWS Staff Residences

[Tom Kellie]

Samburu Sopa Return

It was my third visit within one calendar year to the Samburu Sopa Lodge. After the traditional presentation of wet towels and

passion juice we were taken to the open-air dining room overlooking the waterhole where I was seated at the same seat

I've had in prior visits. Refreshing simple dishes selected from a generous menu — so welcome after a long drive. The

lodge kindly sent a gentleman up the mast to secure a strong Wi-Fi signal for XU Ni. I spotted the dark flowers of

Caralluma russeliana and a red dragonfly by the swimming pool, which are both Samburu Sopa specialties. Back again!

After a Long Drive

Potato-Leek Soup

Mixed Fruit

Repairing the Wi-Fi Signal

Caralluma russeliana

Reliable Poolside Red Dragonfly

[Tom Kellie]

Around the Lodge in the Morning

While waiting for the morning game drive to begin, I walked around the entryway to the Samburu Sopa Lodge, which hosts

both flowers and animals. These images include a few of the species I saw. One of the aspects that I most enjoy about

staying at the Samburu Sopa Lodge is the variety of life around the grounds, despite the arid location. Dik-dik, hornbills,

impala, warthogs, skinks, dragonflies, sunbirds and the occasional Chanting-Goshawk may be observed.

Pseudonigrita cabanisi in the Morning

What Attracts Birds and Insects

I'm NOT a Dragon

Fearsome...to Crickets!

Adenium obesum

[Marks]

I always love these handpainted signs, maps, even animal identification charts, that one sees in such settings. They have so much character.

As always, it is a pleasure to "travel" along with you via these posts.

[Tom Kellie]

I always love these handpainted signs, maps, even animal identification charts, that one sees in such settings. They have so much character.

As always, it is a pleasure to "travel" along with you via these posts.

 

~ @@Marks

 

That's very kind of you to tell me that.

When the next safari begins in 9 days from now, I'll definitely keep in mind what you've said.

If I notice any handpainted signage or maps, they'll be photographed ‘for @@Marks’, as it were.

Similar to you, I've enjoyed “traveling” with @@KaliCA on her self-drive safari.

Post #71 — http://safaritalk.net/topic/14669-self-drive-safari-in-botswana-south-africa-and-namibiab/page-4

Safaritalk affords affordable travel — safely, conveniently and comfortably within one's own home.

As ever, your encouragement is much appreciated.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Passer eminibey

While watching Pseuonigrita cabanisi popping into and out of their suspended nests — as shown in one image — it was

apparent that another species lived alongside them. It was Passer eminibey, Chestnut Sparrow, which flitted around both

taller trees and more moderately-sized bushes. Described as being the smallest sparrow species, the rich colors of Passer

eminibey were enhanced by morning sunlight. It was my first sighting of this species, yet another Samburu Sopa Lodge surprise!

Down and Out

Chestnut Sparrow beside a Nest

Leaning toward the Entrance

Passer eminibey

Smallest of Sparrows

[Tom Kellie]

Samburu Oryx Air Strip

The Samburu Sopa Lodge is located on higher ground at a distance from the Ewaso Nyiro River. When driving

back to the lodge after a game drive there are no signs of human development for kilometers. The Samburu

Oryx Air Strip is the lone indicator that the lodge is nigh. From time to time an aircraft is parked there

although I've yet to see one landing or taking off. Having never flown in a bush plane I couldn't

imagine what it's like to gaze down on wild areas from on high.

Samburu Oryx Air Strip

[Tom Kellie]

Late Afternoon Reticulated Giraffe

The initial sighting of our first game drive in Samburu National Reserve was a solitary female Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata,

Reticulated Giraffe. Her gorgeous coat was made the more lovely by the afternoon sunlight tones. With giraffes I'm hesitant

to definitively say that they're alone or solitary, as so often there are, in fact, other giraffes in the vicinity. In Samburu giraffe

groups tend to spread out a bit, remaining near to one another yet not overly close. In any case she was a beauty!

Samburu Reticulated Giraffe

One of Nature's Finest Designs

Retreating Reticulated Giraffe

[Tom Kellie]

Red Earth Termite Mound

Before my first visit to Samburu, Anthony had described its distinctive features to me, including the presence of large red

earth termite mounds. In each of the three visits to Samburu I've been impressed with termite mounds as a prominent

feature of the landscape and local biome. In Samburu termite mounds I've photographed mongoose families, a genet

cat, and small birds. Growing from the top of this termite mound is a plant, as if a palm growing on an otherwise

deserted island. The red earth colors in late afternoon powerfully remind me of game drives in Samburu.

Classic Samburu Red Earth Termite Mound

Termite Mounds Renew the Local Biome

[Tom Kellie]

Equus grevyi

When we came upon a small herd of Equus grevyi, Grevy's Zebra, they neither bolted nor stopped their grazing. Anthony noted

that lately he'd observed increased numbers of Grevy's Zebra, including during our visit. As it happened, this species was more

in evidence during this safari than during the two prior safaris in Samburu. One of the zebras motionlessly looked directly at the

camera lens for several seconds, making possible a portrait. Their considerable poise was a highlight of the evening game drive.

Early Evening Grazing

How Like the Whorls of a Fingerprint!

Grevy's Zebras

No Illusions

A Fairly Placid Herd

Equus grevyi

A Foal Rising to its Feet

Small Orange Fruit

Grazers

Grevy's Zebra Foal

[Tom Kellie]

Two Resting Lionesses

Towards the close of the initial game drive in Tsavo West we'd come upon a sleeping lion. In Meru we'd seen two lions at a great distance.

Therefore it was satisfying to meet two resting lionesses beside the nearly dry Ewaso Nyiro River. We were meandering along the river

when there they were! Anthony is scrupulously careful not to disturb animals, thus we paused at a distance. It's no secret that I enjoy

observing lions. This pair appeared to be healthy. They were nonchalant towards us, as if we weren't there, which was nice.

Early Evening in the Shade

Lionesses Together

Enjoying a Little Shut-eye

Huntress

Quieta Non Movere

[Tom Kellie]

Crocodile in the Ewaso Nyiro River

This single photograph tells a small story. Throughout our safari we saw nearly all major Kenya animal species. The poorest sighting was

of a crocodile at Mzima Springs in Tsavo West National Park which was mostly obscured by a fallen tree. We felt that we'd seen no other

crocodiles, including at the nearly dry Ewaso Nyiro River. However...six months later while post-processing river images it was apparent

that there was a crocodile in one of the images, at the base of a riverbank. It's visible in the lower right of the image. Occasionally one

makes a fresh sighting months after returning home from a safari. Now I know where the crocodiles went — nowhere!

Crocodile at the Lower Right

[Tom Kellie]

Ewaso Nyiro Early Evening Scenes

The slackwater condition of the Ewaso Nyiro River was reflected in minimal flow. It was scarcely enough to qualify as being a

river, as it was more like a seasonal brook. The vegetation near the riverbank appeared healthy as the dry season is an

annual condition. A pair of Alopochen aegyptiaca, Egyptian Geese, crossed the shallow river with their tiny goslings.

The two parents waded while the three goslings swam. Despite the lack of water flowing, the river environs

remained as peaceful and attractive of a landscape as at other seasons.

Reinforced Riverbank

Nearly Dry Riverbed

Ewaso Nyiro in the Dry Season

Not Parched Yet Not Verdant

Slackwater

A Patch of Green

Vegetation Near the River

Egyptian Geese with Goslings

Crossing the Ewaso Nyiro

[Tom Kellie]

Turdoides rubiginosus

We'd parked overlooking the Ewaso Nyiro riverbed, as Anthony was looking for possible predators. While there the van moved

back and forth around several bushes to seek an optimal vantage point. XU Ni pointed out a medium-sized reddish bird actively

flitting around in the bushes. Despite several attempts over a five minute span I was unable to ever see it a sufficiently open

location for a clear photograph. As we were preparing to move on, there was one moment to

photograph the bird, which was Turdoides rubiginosus, Rufous Chatterer.

Concealed in Vegetation

Plumage and Leg Detail

On a Nearby Branch

Rufous Chatterer

Turdoides rubiginosus

[Tom Kellie]

Impala Fawn

There were several impala in the vegetation growing near the Ewaso Nyiro River — a family group. This fawn detached

itself from the adult females to wander away a short distance. Considering the number of large predators in the immediate

area, not a wise action. It looked at us and took several steps in our direction. Was that an indication of a young animal's

innate curiosity? Samburu has consistently been the location of the clearest sightings of impala fawns, which

this encountered exemplified. I like the charming sweetness of impala fawns!

Impala Fawn Near the Ewaso Nyiro River

Impala Fawn

[Tom Kellie]

Solitary Baby Elephant

Several elephants were feeding very near the impala group we'd observed. Another vehicle was with them so we went around so as not

to disturb their sighting. To our great surprise, a solitary baby elephant was feeding itself without any female elephant watching over it.

It's the only occasion that I've ever watched a baby elephant — no tusks appearing yet — for a couple of minutes without the protective

females around it. We photographed the independent little elephant which apparently has a heart set to do as it pleases, risk or no risk.

Enjoying Samburu's Elephants

Baby Elephant with Two Butterflies

Baby Elephant at Day's End

Independent-minded

Feeding Itself

[michael-ibk]

Wow, that´s all of Easo Nyiro? Incredible, Looks nothing like the mighty river I remember. Great to experience Samburu again via your lens and words!

Edited July 8, 2015 by michael-ibk

[KaliCA]

You captured the giraffe really well and that coat is the most beautiful I have ever seen.

The zebra are so photogenic and it's almost dizzying to look at all that black and white. Three safaris in one year?

Lucky you! Great pictures and stories. Thanks.