Kenya after the Rains (mostly): Meru, Ol Pejeta, Olare Motorogi

[TonyQ]

Back for lunch. When we were talking to Sonja about the elephants we had seen that had been moved from Ol Pejeta to Meru, she was pleased to hear that they had settled. She told us about one of them that used to raid the camp’s vegetable patch. They nicknamed it “Onions” for its habit of pulling up all the onions from the garden and eating them!

 

We couldn’t help watching birds on the lake from the lunch table

Red-billed Teal with chicks

Yellow-billed Duck with chicks

Cattle Egret resting

And time for us to briefly rest....

[xelas]

@@TonyQ

 

That White Rhino with a misty background ... wow! And baby elephants are always such a joy to watch ... and photograph!

[Alexander33]

The hyena with a bone shots are just excellent. Well done!

[mapumbo]

You keep bringing the great shots. I am especially taken with the Grevy shots. The one with the open mouth would be hanging on our wall. Much more attractive than our camel with his nasty dentures.

[dlo]

Love that really sad looking zebra especially the one with him lying with the waterbuck. The first hyena shot with the bone is perfect as well.

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@TonyQ and @@Thursday's Child

 

Beauty in its many permutations.

What you observed and photographed is the classic Kenya safari.

The gorgeous photography adds a lushness to the overall experience.

I especially appreciate the black stork image.

Thank you for sharing your beautiful experience here, for all to enjoy.

Tom K.

[Kitsafari]

A caracal! just about make out those gorgeous ears with the black tip and feathered ends. so exciting. i don't blame you and Thursday's Child for enjoying the sighting than worrying about the camera.

 

I love the pix of the buffalo wallowing in the mud. we don't see buffaloes often shedding all its alertness to enjoy a mudbath.

 

and no, i found the hyena looking quite cute and wide-eyed at you taking its picture with the bone in its mouth! this one looked kinda short and stumpy.

 

also love that pix of the waterbuck and zebra. both looked happy to keep each other company.

Edited March 9, 2016 by Kitsafari

[samapi]

Plenty of nice observations in Ol Pejeta, including many rhinos, lions, some beautiful Grevy's zebras and man: a caracal! Lucky you !

Too bad there is no more wild dog there... I was planning to visit this park later this year to see them...

[michael-ibk]

Another lovely set of photos! Particularly like the odd Grevy-Waterbuck couple. i think the Black Stork is actually an abdim's Stork and the Tommy a Grant's btw.

[deano]

@@TonyQ - I really am starting to enjoy bird photos. Thank you. I still have a thing for mammals though and the jackal pups and hyenas stand out for me but hard to pick favorites with so many great subjects and images. You are a very talented pair no doubt.

 

kind regards

 

deano.

[TonyQ]

@@xelas

@@Alexander33

@@mapumbo

@@dlo

@@Tom Kellie

@@Kitsafari

@@samapi

Thank you for your kind and supportive comments! I am pleased that some of you like the hyena!

 

@@michael-ibk

Thank you for kind comments and help with identification - I have re-checked the bird book and it does indeed look like a an Abdim's stork. As a non-birder all help is gratefully received!

Being a non-birder is not much of an excuse for getting the wrong gazelle

@@deano

Thank you - we are "mammal" people but have increasingly taken pleasure in seeing birds (and reptiles and amphibians and other creatures)

Edited March 10, 2016 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

This afternoon we had booked to visit the Northern White Rhinos in the Eastern part of the conservancy. (Sonja recommended a non-weekend day as the east would be less busy). We would also visit a protected area where Grevy’s Zebra were breeding. In the same area it is possible to visit the Sweetwater Chimpanzee sanctuary (we didn’t want to). Our fellow guest has been before so she went on a drive with a different guide – we had Andrew and the vehicle to ourselves again. We also had a tracker as we intended to turn the drive into a night drive when the light faded.

 

We crossed into the Eastern Section

Sign at Bridge.

We drove to the section where the Northern White Rhinos are kept and picked up one of the keepers. It was feeding time.

 

 

There are three Northern White Rhinos left in the world- all at Ol Pejeta in part of a 700 acre endangered species enclosure. “The northern white rhino is a subspecies of white rhino, which used to range over parts of Uganda, Chad, Sudan, the Central African Republic, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.” (from Ol Pejeta website). There are two females and one male at Ol Pejeta. None of them are capable of breeding naturally. Attempts are being made to raise money for in vitro fertilisation and other techniques.

 

I am sure these individuals have a better life than when they were kept in zoos- and the keeper is obviously devoted to them. But it is depressing to see what humans have done, and it does not look to be practically un-doable for this sub-species.

 

Greater Blue-eared Starling (?) rests on Northern White Rhino

 

[TonyQ]

However the rest of the visit was more uplifting! The endangered species enclosure (700 acres) is designed to keep predators out in an attempt to increase numbers.

 

We were delighted to see a female Southern White Rhino with a 2 month old calf.

Grazing together, mother and baby

 

We also saw a number of other animals taking advantage of the lack of predators – (there were a lot of warthogs!)

Grey Crowned Crane

Waterbuck

[TonyQ]

One animal we were particularly keen to see was Grevy’s Zebra. There are some in the main reserve, but there is a problem of hybridisation with the common zebra (as we had seen earlier).

 

“To try and tackle this problem, Ol Pejeta partnered with the Kenya Wildlife Service in March 2011 to move eight Grevy’s zebra from the surrounding area to the 700 acre, predator-proof Endangered Species Enclosure. The move aimed to prevent hybridisation and provide the Grevy’s with a safe environment in which to reproduce. To diversify the gene pool in the enclosure, Ol Pejeta then partnered with nearby Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in 2012 to move eight females from Lewa to Ol Pejeta.

As the population increases, there are future plans to move some individuals out of the enclosure back into the surrounding areas to boost wider populations.”

From Ol Pejeta website.

So we were pleased to see that the breeding programme was having results.

One of the babies was only one day old. They really are beautiful animals.

 

They are classified by ICUN as Endangered, their range has shrunk dramatically and is fragmented. They are now found in Kenya and Ethiopia and are probably extinct in Somalia and Sudan. In the 1970s the world population was estimated at about 15000. In 2008 the population was estimated at about 2500.

Every baby counts

 

So we left feeling more positive.

[TonyQ]

Jackson’s Hartebeest with baby

 

We then took a short diversion to the Rhino graveyard.

 

This commemorates each rhino killed by poaching. There are 10 gravestones. A great deal of effort is being put into protecting the rhino.(although sadly a pregnant black rhino was killed and the horns removed at the end of February.)

 

We drove on and the sky began to get dark with clouds and it began to rain really heavily.The night drive would not be possible so we headed back to camp.

 

The rain had not been so heavy on that side of the conservancy

 

We briefly saw a lion in the light of the headlights but could not follow it.

Back at camp, the rain had encouraged a very loud chorus outside our tent. (The video clip is put in for the sound so is not effective with muted sound!)

At night

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU4nnISK0qk&feature=youtu.be

Kicheche Laikipia at Night! Video Clip (24 secs)

[michael-ibk]

Seeing the Northern White Rhinos must be quite depressing, but the Grevy babies are a most wonderful sight.

[TonyQ]

The final morning at Ol Pejeta.

 

Our flight from Nanyuki to Mara was originally scheduled for 9.20, then 10.20. The later time meant we could have a bush breakfast on the way, taking our time on a final game drive/transfer with Albert (who we had met when we arrived)

 

Our route took us through the eastern section. The tracks were very muddy from last night’s rain.

 

Black Rhino with calf

Wattled Starling

A lark (I don't know what sort)

Reticulated Giraffe - our last one!

Augur Buzzard.

 

Ol Pejeta - Final thoughts

We really enjoyed being at Ol Pejeta. The larger, western side had few visitors – we were at Ol Pejeta for 5 nights, most of that time was spent in the west. In that section almost all sightings were on our own – we shared our cheetah viewing for the final 5 minutes and one elephant family viewing. The scenery is varied and there is a lot of wildlife. Being able to go off-road for sightings is a big positive.

 

The eastern side is busier, but it is to be applauded that more Kenyans can visit – including school parties.

 

Ol Pejeta is an interesting conservation model, mixing cattle ranching an protection of wildlife. Is it a wilderness? – no. Is it a good wildlife destination – absolutely.

 

Kicheche Laikipa is an excellent camp. Well managed – efficient and very friendly and welcoming. Flexiblity to focus on wildlife viewing is stressed. Our guiding by Andrew was superb. The vehicle was very good for photography, food was excellent.

 

 

On to the Nanyuki Airport

 

When we got to the airport we found that the flight was now going to be at 11.00. We saw it arrive, but it had to be refuelled and didn’t actually leave until about 12.00. Still, we had a nice coffee while waiting. The flight was smooth, despite a lot of cloud and we were excited to be headed to a new destination – Olare Motorogi Conservancy (OMC) in the Mara.

Edited March 10, 2016 by TonyQ

[offshorebirder]

@@TonyQ - I've enjoyed reading the past few installments. I am very much looking forward to y'alls time in the Mara.

It's hard to tell if the Lark is a Rufous-naped Lark or Red-winged Lark. I would like to see a little of the side of the breast to know which one with certainty. Red-winged Larks have small dark spots on the side of the breast and unlike Rufous-naped Lark, some of those spots combine to make little black patches at the upper corner of the breast.

The range map in the Field Guide to Birds of East Africa shows the range of Red-winged Lark to be well east of Ol Pejeta. But it also seems east of Samburu/Buffalo Springs and we had a Red-winged Lark there on my recent Kenya trip. But the field guide also says that Red-winged Lark "occurs mainly N and E of Rufous-naped from sea level to 1350 meters, preferring drier areas with more bush cover".

Drier area with more bush cover sounds like Ol Pej but it's around 2,000 meters right? Might be too high for Red-winged Lark.

 

Ol Pej is also very slightly outside the range map shown for Rufous-naped Lark - but not by very much.

I suppose if I had to give an answer I would say Rufous-naped Lark but I do not feel comfortable completely eliminating Red-winged Lark. But birders more experienced with E. African birds than I might be comfortable doing so...

[TonyQ]

@@offshorebirder

Thank you for the kind comments and for taking the time to consider this bird. It is great for a non-birder to see how a birder thinks when trying to identify a bird - good learning for me

Ol Pejeta is about 2000m high.

Here is another picture I took showing a bit more of the breast if that is any help

Edited March 10, 2016 by TonyQ

[offshorebirder]

Thanks @@TonyQ - looks good for the Athi subspecies of Rufous-naped Lark.

 

It lacks the black patch at the upper corner of the breast and the breast looks to have the light rufous wash overlaid by thin + crisp dark streaks that a Rufous-naped Lark would show. Red-winged Larks have sort of distinct rufous breast feathers with thin pale areas between them and dark-centered feather spots.

[Alexander33]

This report is simply a continuing joy to read. Beautiful in every way.

[Kitsafari]

those grevy's are beautiful, esp the little ones. i've not seen one. and they've just ended up on my list of to see. hmm. @@TonyQ and @@Thursday's Child, you keep adding to my ever growing list.

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

@@Kitsafari

We thougth the Grevy's were beautiful animals

@@offshorebirder

Thank you for the help with identification - much appreciated

@@Alexander33

Thank you!

[TonyQ]

Into OMC

The airstrip we were heading towards was actually in Naboisho Conservancy. As we flew over, it was fascinating to see the small villages and herds of cattle. It was also obvious that there had been a lot of rain. Everything was very green, and as we got lower, much water was visible on the ground.

 

We were met at the airstrip and started our transfer towards Kicheche Bush Camp. Many of the tracks were wet, and some very slippery. We passed a variety of plains game, including Wildebeest. We were sure we would see more of these when we got to Olare Motorogi, but we asked to stop for

 

Kirk’s Dik Dik

Topi

We asked to stop because there were a lot of babies!

Suckling

Sitting in the long grass

[TonyQ]

It was an interesting drive, and as we got closer to camp we asked to stop to see

Ostrich with Chicks

Chicks showing wings

 

We pulled into Kicheche Bush Camp, much later than originally planned. We were met by managers Emma and Darren (a very nice couple)with a cold drink. They had saved some lunch for us (very nice) and then Emma showed us our tent, gave us a briefing. She emphasised that the camp is flexible about meals and is focussed on wildlife viewing.

 

Our Tent

The tents are very comfortable. Light, airy, bucket shower. The chairs are in a “veranda” area which is open during the day and closed at night.

 

View from Tent (Notice long grass!)

We had about half an hour to relax, get ready and then head back to the communal area to meet up with our guide for the afternoon drive at 4pm.