Kenya after the Rains (mostly): Meru, Ol Pejeta, Olare Motorogi

[TonyQ]

We had paid for a Private Guide and Vehicle for the 3 full days at Kicheche Bush (and had him for the two half days as well. From what we hear, all of the guides at Kicheche Bush are very good. After discussion with Richard at Expert Africa, we requested Charles and were pleased that we got him.

 

So why did we want a private guide here? We thought that this area would be busier than Meru or Ol Pejeta (it was) and we wanted to be in more control. It worked out very well as we effectively had private guides at Meru and Ol Pejeta without paying extra. It may be an expensive discovery, but we realised how much we liked the experience. In particular we liked being able to stay watching “non-star” animals.

 

We met Charles and he asked us about what we liked to see and how we liked to spend time. Then we headed out for the afternoon drive

Out first Black-backed Jackal (of this section of the trip)

Another Kicheche Bush vehicle heading out

The Ostrich family we had seen earlier

Edited March 12, 2016 by TonyQ

[TonyQ]

One animal we had told Charles we would like to see was Cheetah. Well we did have to wait 20 minutes!

 

Charles told us that this was the cheetah they called Imani with her three cubs. The cubs were about 7 months old. She did have 4 but lost one, to lions they think.

 

 

You will notice that the grass is long – and this provided a photographic challenge and an opportunity. The challenge was that sometimes we would focus on the grass in front of an animal rather than the animal itself. If there was a lot of long grass then you would be aware of it and make allowances (and sometimes focus manually), but the trickiest was when there was a small amount of long grass blowing about in the wind that you didn’t notice. Of course the long grass can also make it harder to see the animals clearly (though your eyes/brain see differently to a camera). The opportunity is that the grass can provide a beautiful backdrop.

 

Charles thought the cheetah had eaten fairly recently and were resting. They liked the long grass because it hid them from lions.

 

 

Imani with gash on side (it appeared to be healing well)

[TonyQ]

After a while it started to rain,

 

and then more heavily. We pulled the roof over and put the canvas flaps down on one side of the vehicle. We had rain covers for the cameras so carried on taking pictures. Charles gave us Ponchos to wear to keep us dry.

 

The cheetahs got very wet, and anthropomorphic projection said they looked a bit miserable. But we loved watching them lick the water off each other.

 

[nhanq]

Excellent trip report and photos! If you want to increase your checklist you actually spotted 2 more mammal species:

 

The warthog with red dust is actually a Desert Warthog, one of the least known bigger mammals. Look at the earend pointing backwards.

 

And the species of "Grantish" gazelle found in Meru is a Bright’s gazelle.

See this article from Natgeo:

Bright’s gazelle (Nanger notata), Meru National Park. This species was previously referred to as ‘Grant’s gazelle’ (Nanger granti).

http://voices.nationalgeographic.com/2014/08/01/warthogs-and-primates-in-the-meru-conservation-area-central-kenya-and-the-decline-of-kora-national-park/

 

..but don't mention this as the classification of Grant's gazelles is a hot topic here and not everyone agrees as they look exactly the same and only DNA differs.

[TonyQ]

Here is a video clip of Imani grooming and then drying cubs

Imani gives Cubs a good wash (2 mins)

Video by @Thursday’s Child

[TonyQ]

We spent about an hour and a half with the cheetah family. Other vehicles came and went – I think at maximum 3 others at the same time. They were all well behaved and respectful.

(Apologies if you don't like cheetahs....)

 

Shaking off the water

A bit happier?

Any help welcome!

 

 

[TonyQ]

And a final few..

 

Eventually we moved on!

[TonyQ]

After about half an hour we found a tree with 4 vehicles at the bottom of it. And up in the tree was

This was the leopard that they call Fig. We asked Charles if the vehicles would cause her a problem. He said no, she was accustomed to them and could get down when she wanted.

 

Light was low, and behind her, so not great photos, but…

 

Unfortunately, the group in one of the vehicles was having their sundowners, laughing and talking very loudly about someone’s honeymoon. After watching for a while and taking a few pictures we asked Charles if we could leave. (Poor man had found us a leopard so soon after finding cheetah and we wanted to leave!)

 

Light was getting low, we saw some waterbuck and a spotted hyena. We had a quick sundowner and headed back towards camp.

Grey-backed Fiscal

 

Charles saw something by the light from the headlamps and we head towards it and followed

 

A serval!

 

We had never seen one before and were very excited. We followed it for about 10 minutes over very bumpy ground, trying to get photos through the long grass with virtually no light (ISO 12800). So I was quite pleased to get a picture where it is recognisable! However we had really good views of it and were thrilled. Charles was also excited to see this.

 

We got back to camp buzzing and late (flexibility). As it was dark we were escorted to our tent by an Askari. On the way to the tent he showed us a Bushbaby in the tree –which proceeded to jump some distance into another tree. We had a quick shower and went to a very good dinner.

 

So three species of spotted cat on the first afternoon was not a bad introduction to OMC!

 

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@TonyQ

 

Although I initially saw this image many hours ago, it made such a deep impression on me that I returned for a second look.

I'm fond of various shades and tones in the blue spectrum.

Your lovely image has captured the silhouette backed by a subtle gradation of blues.

Such an image would make a fine cover for a jazz CD — perhaps a reissue of Miles Davis' ‘Kind of Blue’.

The color range in your image less frequently appears in safari images, thus is all the more appreciated.

Your cheetah in the rain series, Fig-the-Leopard, the serval, the young ostriches, the dik-dik, and the nursing topi are all wonderful.

Having been in the same conservancy a few weeks after you and @@Thursday's Child, they're highly evocative of that area.

Thank you so much for once again favoring Sfaritalk with such excellent photographs.

Tom K.

[mapumbo]

Your good baby sightings continue. The frogs croaking can be nearly deafening. I never thought to record it. Nice cheetah shots and video, very peaceful. Glad you got to see a serval.

[pault]

I really regret not going to see the Grevy's Zebras in the enclosure now, although they wouldn't have had the foals then. So many highlights at Ol Pejeta though, and so many beautiful photos.

 

Good way to start your stay at Kicheche Bush Camp too. Really enjoying this.

[Safaridude]

@@TonyQ

 

Wow, this is as comprehensive as any report for Meru and OP so far. Thanks for this encyclopedic effort.

 

Looking forward to more from Kichche Bush Camp. I was there two weeks ago, and I loved the place.

[Marks]

Enjoyed your attention spent on zebras. I've found them to be amusing and interesting to watch, too. Excellent photos.

Your hyena on page 12 is still plenty cute

 

The starling on the rhino is very striking, as are the silhouetted trees on page 13. And those cheetah teeth!

[Kitsafari]

@@TonyQ wow a serval! I've not seen one yet. Despite the Low light, it looks pretty clear n sharp to me.

 

Thanks for the write up in kicheche bush; my OH will be pleased to see it.

 

Beautiful Fig - we missed her by a day or 2. And the cheetah cubs are gorgeous.

[TonyQ]

@@nhanq

Thank you for your kind comments - I had wondered if it might be a Desert Warthog in Meru, but I am not skilled enough at seeing the difference. Thank you for your identification - an extra bonus when we got home. I had never heard of Bright's Gazelle (even if it is a subject of debate) so thank you for that!

@@Tom Kellie

Thank you for your kind comments- I liked the blue coloured sky as being different from my usual orange evening skies. A jazz CD cover - who would have thought it!

@@mapumbo

Thank you - it was a good time for babies

@@pault

Thank you. Your reports had been helpful in choosing where to go so I am pleased you are enjoying it. The Grevy's and foals were worth the visit!

@@Safaridude

Thank you - your trip report was important in choosing Offbeat Meru - a good choice. I have starting reading your fine new trip report - you will catch me up soon

@@Marks

Thank you for following and for your kind comments. We enjoyed being able to spend time with animals like Zebra - they are fascinating.

@@Kitsafari

We loved Kicheche Bush - it is an excellent camp. We loved the cheetah cubs in and after the rain - it was great watching them.

 

Thank you for those of you reading and "liking" - ot all provides encouragement to continue!

[TonyQ]

Our first morning in OMC

 

We wake at 5.30 with Kenyan tea and some very fine biscuits delivered to us. We had arranged to meet Charles at 6.00 and as usual for this trip we would have a bush breakfast.

 

When Charles asked us yesterday what we would like to see, we asked him if there were any Bat-eared Foxes around. So this morning he said we would head to an area where there was a den.

 

We started with a group of Spotted Hyena

 

Feeling relaxed

Two youngsters looking to see what was going on

Rufous-naped Lark (?)

 

One of the pleasures of the early part of the drives was hearing so many birds singing. The larks were a treat because they tended to sit on some raised feature, making them visible to us non-birders as well as very audible.

 

Then as we moved up a gentle slope we saw a termite mound – and 2 Bat-eared Foxes.

 

One immediately dived down a hole

The second one thought about joining its companion

But decided against it

It relaxed for a while

Had a look round - And then relaxed some more

 

We stayed with it for about half an hour, taking another photo when it twitched its ear. Eventually we left it relaxing. Bat-eared Fox was an animal we had really wanted to see – they have such distinctive faces – so we were delighted to see one so closely. Charles later said that if we were interested we could return to the den at a different time of day to see if there were any more occupants. (We said yes please!)

[TonyQ]

As we moved on we saw a handsome group of Elephants

 

Then we saw a male Lion hiding in some long grass and then heading towards a river. Charles said he thought the Lion would try to cross the river and he rushed to a spot where he thought it likely

Charles was right

 

It was fascinating watching the Lion carefully use stepping stones to cross the river and avoid getting his feet wet. He then disappeared along the river where we could not follow.

[TonyQ]

Charles then took us to where the Lion had come from – this involved a river crossing on our part. We headed into an area of long grass. And saw

Lion looking through long grass

Through the grass we could see a lion gnawing on the remains of a kill

There were at least nine lions in the area.

One looked across the grass towards a noise

It started running towards a hyena

The hyena turned to face it; the lion carried on running

Hyena look on

Looking fierce

 

The lion stopped her run, turned and walked back to the group

A wise move...

[TonyQ]

After a while they got up and started walking downhill towards the river. We drove ahead and positioned ourselves where Charles thought they would head

He was right

 

As they walked towards us and then passed us, we could see that some of them were very skinny. There was a lot of long grass in their area (more long grass than is usual) and this was not good for their prey. Not many like the long grass, so there were some hungry lions around.

 

They headed deep into some bushes (with fly-repellent properties as well as being shade) and settled down to rest. We left them and headed back to where they hyenas were.

With jaw bone at feet

Each has a chunk of bone

With the main prize

[TonyQ]

As we drove towards a different area we saw

A fine Southern Ground Hornbill with kill

Woolly-necked Stork with lovely red eyes

 

Driving on we circled a herd of Eland

 

Charles point out herds of cattle in the distance

 

We found a good spot for breakfast where we could reflect on the morning so far, and get to know Charles a bit better. Breakfast was excellent. As we cleared up we saw

Dung Beetle.

It was fascinating to watch it roll this large ball of dung, showing great persistence as it pushed against plants and moved up a slope.

 

As we moved on we saw

Topi on small Mound

Topi portrait

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@TonyQ

 

WOW! These most recently uploaded posts are stunning photography!

Considering the morning light, the bat-eared fox images are terrific!

When I was in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, after you and @@Thursday's Child had been there, I often saw bat-eared foxes.

My pathetic attempts to photograph them resulted in images which would crawl away to hide, when compared with your lovely photos.

One of your hyena photos is a knockout for bringing out the intelligence of the animal.

The Southern Ground Hornbill, Eland and Wooly-necked Stork images are likewise lovely.

The lions? Simply smashing!

Your photography stands out as your camera settings seem to be exactly what I like.

Ha! Yes...your blue sky does look like a jazz CD cover. It has that subtle moodiness combined with deep beauty.

With Appreciation,

Tom K.

[Zim Girl]

@@TonyQ

 

Lovely bat-eared fox pictures and just love the male lion on the stepping stones deep in concentration!

[mapumbo]

Glad you were able to see the bat eared fox.

That one hyena looks to have rather short ears.

[pomkiwi]

@@TonyQ An epic report for an epic trip. Excellent photos and very good low light shots. Thank-you.

[dlo]

@@TonyQ

 

Excellent posts today with some really great shots. Some fantastic hyena shots and I am glad to see someone who likes them as much as I do.