Mission Impossible! An epic road trip in search of some of South Africa’s rarest mammals

[Dave Williams]

Gosh, what an epic photo rich report! I started reading it weeks ago. Left off, went to Africa for 2 weeks, came back and you are still going strong! I'm really interested in your sightings from Cape Town westwards as we are covering the same tracks in July. You have had some fantastic sightings but I'm not sure I should share with wife Claire as it might put her off camping seeing those snakes! Me, I'm very envious and if we do half as well as you I'll be happy!.

[kittykat23uk]

3 hours ago, Dave Williams said:

Gosh, what an epic photo rich report! I started reading it weeks ago. Left off, went to Africa for 2 weeks, came back and you are still going strong! I'm really interested in your sightings from Cape Town westwards as we are covering the same tracks in July. You have had some fantastic sightings but I'm not sure I should share with wife Claire as it might put her off camping seeing those snakes! Me, I'm very envious and if we do half as well as you I'll be happy!.

 

LOl well I'm desperately trying to get it finished now, before I go to Japan on Thursday!

[kittykat23uk]

04/10/17 Mata Mata Kalahari Tented Camp

 

The weather had closed in overnight and we awoke to a wet, blustery day. We had  Jackals and Kori Bustards around camp as we had breakfast and then, after packing up, we left around 8 am and drove from Kalahari Tented Camp towards Twee Rivieren.

 

PA041774 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041777 Yellow Canary by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041782 Southern Grey-headed Sparrow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had some lovely views of Giraffes on the ridge line sunlit against the brooding sky.

 

PA041789 Southern Giraffes by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041799 Southern Giraffes by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041805 Southern Giraffes by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A Pale Chanting Goshawk  struggled against the wind, whilst a Tawny Eagle judiciously roosted with its wings firmly braced against its body.

 

PA041812 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041819 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041834 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041833 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041837 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041888 Tawny Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041876 Tawny Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041873 Tawny Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041888 Tawny Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A pair of Spotted Thick-knees were seen along the riverbed and a Gabar Goshawk was perched in a tree.

 

PA041952 Spotted Thick-knee by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041966 Spotted Thick-knee by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041985 adj Gabar Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA041995 adj Gabar Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Then a real treat, a gorgeous black-maned lion sauntering along the riverbed with an attendant parade of vehicles following along. We watched for a while as he paced along.

 

PA042030 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042048 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042157 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042162 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042174 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We saw a few more birds, nothing else new and checked back into to Twee Rivieren.

 

PA040456 Sociable weaver nests by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Edited February 13, 2018 by kittykat23uk
Added Tawny eagles

[kittykat23uk]

There was a short debate about whether to drive out that afternoon as the weather was really set in. But we had nothing to lose by going out and little really to gain from staying in, so off we went back up the Nossob road again.

 

PA042243 Northern Black Korhaan by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042268 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

This proved to be an excellent decision as we encountered another group of vehicles all seemingly watching something on the left in the dunes. Mum was first to spot that it was a beautiful leopard! This was a different female, Namabies - a 3 year old female. She was walking between Kij kij and Melkvlei, striding along up and down a dune, stopping occasionally to wash herself and sitting down occasionally before seemingly getting spooked and running off over the dune.  This was around 1400. 

 

PA042345 Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042355 Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042367 Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042388 Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042413 adj Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042423 adj Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042447 adj Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042515 adj Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042519 Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042578 adj Leopard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Unless you're a Bon Jovi Fan, you might want to watch the video with the sound off!

 

 

Edited February 13, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[lmSA84]

@kittykat23uk - really enjoying your report. Good to hear that they have started offering drives again out of Mata Mata. When I was there, in late Jan of last year, the park was down to one guide based in Twee Riverien

[kittykat23uk]

Our guide spotted a huge puff adder on the road and carefully coaxed it to move off the road with his vehicle.

 

PA040459 Puff Adder by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042690 Puff Adder by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The rain kept coming and our sightings became increasingly soggy, including jackals shaking off the worst of the rain from their coats.

 

PA042605 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042620 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042622 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042626 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042624 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042623 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042722adj Marico Flycatcher by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A dishevelled Spotted Hyena, seemed to be following a jackal. I had really hoped we would get to see a Brown Hyena, but sadly it wasn’t to be. Still, it was nice to see our only spotty of the trip.   

 

PA042649-1adj Spotted Hyena by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042653. Spotted Hyena by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042669. Spotted Hyena by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Common Fiscals and Marico Flycatchers represented the few small birds that braved the weather A Kori Bustard seemed to be getting turned on by the cool rain, strutting around in display.

 

PA042595 adj Common Fiscal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042596 adj Common Fiscal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042603 adj Common Fiscal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042729 Kori Bustard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Springbok were also in a strange mood, pronking about in the rain, whilst a Martial Eagle surveyed the land with apparent disdain.

 

PA042746 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042745 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042753 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042749 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042750 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042809 Springbok pronking by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042840 Martial Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

After dinner we took a night drive. It was freezing cold but at least dry. We saw quite a few animals, Springhares, Black Backed Jackals, Bat-eared foxes, Cape Fox, Scrub Hare and a probable Small Spotted Genet, but mostly at a distance so I didn’t manage to get any new photos other than one of a Rufous-cheeked Nightjar.  

 

PA040463 Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA040465 Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA040466 adj Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA040467 Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA042852 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

[kittykat23uk]

13 minutes ago, lmSA84 said:

@kittykat23uk - really enjoying your report. Good to hear that they have started offering drives again out of Mata Mata. When I was there, in late Jan of last year, the park was down to one guide based in Twee Riverien

 

That's a shame! We managed to get either a night drive or a sunset drive most evenings. 

[kittykat23uk]

4 hours ago, Dave Williams said:

Gosh, what an epic photo rich report! I started reading it weeks ago. Left off, went to Africa for 2 weeks, came back and you are still going strong! I'm really interested in your sightings from Cape Town westwards as we are covering the same tracks in July. You have had some fantastic sightings but I'm not sure I should share with wife Claire as it might put her off camping seeing those snakes! Me, I'm very envious and if we do half as well as you I'll be happy!.

 

better not show her the puff adder then!! 

[kittykat23uk]

05/10/17 Twee Rivieren

 

PA052867 Cape Glossy Starling by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

It was our last full day in the park. The sun was shining, the rain had passed and we headed out on the Nossob road. Our first sighting was of a colony of Brants’s Whistling Rats. We watched them foraging for a while and then carried on.

 

PA052884  Whistling Rat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA052897 Whistling Rat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA052909 Whistling Rat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A Jackal was drinking at a water hole. An ostrich wandered past.

 

PA052967 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA052984 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA052985 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA052987 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053001 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053015 Black-backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053026 Ostrich by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Peering out of its den, a Cape Fox watched the world go by.

 

 

PA053050 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

We carried on, and came across a party of foraging meerkats. Always a delight to watch.

 

PA053055 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053056 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053067 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053092 Meerkats video by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Edited February 14, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[SafariChick]

So many great shots! The leopard that wasn't a cheetah, the adorable whistling rat looking right at the camera with its mouth open, the white-faced Scops owl, the meerkats, the lions! And so many snakes!

Edited February 14, 2018 by SafariChick

[pault]

Damn I am waaay behind on this one. Seeing some amazing things and really want to catch up rather than be that person commenting two months after you finish. 

 

 

[janzin]

Just catching up too as I was busy finishing up my own report. But WOW you really did great in KTP and hopefully it made up for some of the disappointment you had in the earlier part of the trip! When we were in KTP we could only get one night drive and saw pretty much nothing, so you did really well there too. It really makes me want to return there. I think you were also there at a better time of year (this is October, yes?) We were in August and it was so frigid in the morning, especially in Kalahari Tented Camp, I've never been so cold on a trip (well, only in Ecuador sleeping at Antisana at 11,000 feet!). And I think it made the animal activity quieter too.

 

And I can't believe how many snakes you saw on this trip

[kittykat23uk]

@janzin I'll be happy to join you! Yep this was the first week in October. It was really cold at night on those drives. Our previous guide was so down on KTP. He said nothing good abut it at all, kept saying we were wasting our time going there and that we wouldn't see anything! But we loved it! I would love to go back and see more of the park. 

[kittykat23uk]

A Lanner Falcon shot overhead and then we came up to some Springbok resting.

 

The rain had left its mark as ants had started an emergence. This brought out their predators who didn’t want to miss an opportunity for a good feed. We were treated to fabulous views of a pair of Bat-eared Foxes foraging in the riverbed. It was a wonderful opportunity to get a good look at this usually nocturnal mammal.

 

PA053098 Lanner Falcon by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053130 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053157 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053197 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053204 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053230 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053242 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053254 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053257 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053263 Video of Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053274 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053280 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053309 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053317 Bat-eared fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

Another Southern Pale-chanting Goshawk posed on the riverbed, and then we spotted a more distant Black-shouldered Kite and another Ostrich.

 

PA053347 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053350 Black-shouldered Kite by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053356 Ostrich by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Foraging in the shade was an African Hoopoe, its mohican standing to attention.

 

PA053364 African Hoopoe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053367 African Hoopoe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Continuing on, we came up to a waterhole where a herd of Gemsbok were hanging out.

 

PA053402 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053412 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053422 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053431 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053473 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053476 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053491 Sociable Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053499 Sociable Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We cut back across the dunes onto the Mata Mata road and headed back towards Twee Rivieren. We encountered a herd of Giraffes, one was particularly dark in colour.

 

PA053509 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053526 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053535 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053539 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

More Tawny Eagles perched in the trees and then we sighted a beautiful russet coloured Slender Mongoose. Quick as a flash, it was gone!

 

PA053555 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053573 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053582 Tawny Eagles by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053597 Slender Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053630 Slender Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

A rather photogenic pair of jackals seemed at ease with our presence and we spent some quality time with them.

 

PA053672 Black-backed Jackals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053681 Black-backed Jackals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053682 Black-backed Jackals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053684 Black-backed Jackals by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Then another meerkat, digging a hole.

 

PA053693 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053696 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053700 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053703 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053705 Tawny Eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

 

We took a sunset drive and first stopped for the Verreaux’s Eagle Owls on the Nossob Road. The chick was on the ground and seemed to be temporarily stuck in a burrow of some kind, but it eventually worked its talons free and seemed to be fine, the parents looking on with disdain.

 

PA053713 Verreaux's Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053729 Verreaux's Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053740 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

It was a supermoon that rose over the Kgalagadi. It was a cold night and the best we could manage, despite a long, chilly drive over the dunes to search for honey badgers was a Cape Hare and and another Bat-eared Fox.    

 

PA053756 Full moon rising by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053764 Full moon rising by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053768 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Cape Hare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA053789 Bat-eared Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

06/10/17 Twee Rivieren to home

 

PA060473 Dusk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Our flight out of Upington wasn’t until 1710 so we had time enough for a drive in the park. We first spotted a pair of Black-shouldered Kites, then a distant Cape Fox along the Nossob road. A Yellow mongoose was on the hunt for some breakfast, and then we passed the Verreaux’s Eagle Owl nest, the chick was back.

 

PA060048 Black-shouldered Kites by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060078 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060096 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060150 Verreaux's Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

As we carried on we came across a few cars, all watching something. This turned out to be our two male lions that we’d seen on our first day. But they were a lot closer this time! One of them walked right by the side of the vehicle, giving mum a near heart attack! She started squealing like a startled dikdik at me to wind the window up as this big lion peered at her through the back window.. Now I am not normally nervous around lions, but I was certainly getting a little concerned at the racket she was making in the back! I had to tell her to pipe down a bit, lest the lions think she was on the menu!

 

PA060477 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060500 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060529 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060537 (2) African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060541 (2) African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060544 (2) African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060550 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060570 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060573 adj African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060605 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060617 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

We then had to take a quick detour to use the bathrooms before returning to the lions again.

 

PA060620 Pugmarks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060623 Pugmarks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060624 Pugmarks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060626 Pugmarks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060628 Viewpoint by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063800. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063823. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063840-4 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063848. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063860.-2 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063872. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063876. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063882. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063907 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063924.-2 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063953.-1 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063979 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063997.-1 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064004. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064025.-1 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064026.-2 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064033.-1 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064036.-1 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064041. African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064046 African Lion video by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064056 (2) African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Edited February 14, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

Well after spending quite some time watching these two boys, once they decided to take a nap we carried on. There wasn’t a lot else of note before it was time for us to go, just a couple more Northern Black Korhaans.

 

PA064081 Northern Black Korhaan by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA064094 Northern Black Korhaan by Jo Dale, on Flickr

We stopped for lunch at a lodge en route to Upington spotting a nice Groundscraper Thrush and then were dropped off at Upington a few hours before our flight. This ended our epic road trip in South Africa and our journey home was quite uneventful.   

 

PA060165 Groundscraper Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060178  Groundscraper Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060161 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060633 Our little Chariot by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA060634 The gang1 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA063798 Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr 

 

PA063794 scenic shot of the moon by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The end!

[ld1]

@kittykat23uk Fabulous last few days to a maddening first part of the trip. Love the pair of jackals and the last lion encounter amongst all those wonderful little encounters like the whistling rats and stripped mice. Have a fabulous time in Japan. I loved it in Japan despite not finding a single raccoon dog or bear and missing rabbit island altogether. I’d love to make it back there one day to see the cranes up in snowy Hokkaido.

[Zim Girl]

@kittykat23uk It was certainly an epic trip and really enjoyed reading your report.  Feel your pain regarding the first guide but you have had an amazing time despite that.  Stunning pictures and super sightings.

[Towlersonsafari]

Thanks very much @kittykat23ukfor a wonderful trip report with some epic sightings! Whetting our appetites for our November KTP/Karoo trip-

[Peter Connan]

Kgalagadi really pulled the fat out of the fire once again!

 

Thanks for a wonderful trip report.

[Dave Williams]

You have really whet my appetite for our trip too! If we see as much as you did in Kgalagadi i'll be delighted and as long as the snakes are on the road and not in our tent/ room all will be well.

We should get drier weather in July but I noted the comments about the cold at night. I'll make sure we are prepared!

If anyone reading your report fancies joining our trip there is a vacancy for one, preferably female. Details below.

 

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks all. Currently in Japan.  Unfortunately,  took a tumble and totalled my best lens (and dented my best camera) before we've even made it to Hokkaido!  . Many of the birds are quite far (except the the cranes ) so don't expect such good photos next time around!

Edited February 23, 2018 by kittykat23uk