Touched by an Elephant

[Atravelynn]

 

Jane, at the Voi Stockades Reintegration Unit in Tsavo East, being Touched by an Elephant

 

Each of us on this trip that included four different Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (SWT) Elephant Reintegration Units was touched literally, figuratively and emotionally by a variety of elephants--mostly by orphans or former orphans--but there was also a completely wild elephant that reached out with its trunk to touch and sniff our shoes.

 

Sangeeta’s feet being sniffed by a wild elephant whose trunk reached up over a wall to separate elephants from people at Ithumba, Tsavo East

 

 

Traveling together were:  @Sangeeta of Chalo Africa whose company organized this phenomenal trip. @SafariChick (Jane) who determinedly and bravely fulfilled a final wish of returning to Africa.  Sadly, Jane passed away 12 days after getting home, but in her final days, she was able to experience the joy of the bush and of the baby elephants making their way back to the wild. @njs (Nancy) who joined Safaritalk several years ago, in part to seek info on a SWT trip and was recruited by Jane to join us.  Jill, a long-time friend of Jane’s who remained steadfastly by her side throughout the trip. Claudia, a delightful testudophile who could travel at this time of year because it was hibernation season, so no feedings were necessary.  And me, Atravelynn.

 

@Sangeetain safari chic-wear at Ololo Safari Lodge in Nairobi

 

 

Nancy @njsin her elephant print top at the Voi Stockades Reintegration Unit in Tsavo East

 

 

Jill surveying the landscape in Tsavo East

 

 

 

Claudia providing a tongue massage, which the elephants love, at the Voi Stockades Reintegration Unit in Tsavo East.  Can't do that with a turtle.

 

 

Lynn, travelynn, and Adopted Orphan, Kindana,  at the Private Visit at Sheldrick’s in Nairobi.  Masks were required only at this facility.

 

 

All of us had been to Africa previously.  Jill won the award for “First to the  Continent” for her visit 30 years ago.  We got along great and had a lot of laughs.

 

I’m hoping my safarimates chime in with their thoughts and photos.

 

Contents of the report, in order

3 Biggest Surprises of the Trip

Covid Stuff

The Adapter—G-type

Map of our SWT route

Itinerary Outline

What time of year to go?

Special thank yous

Quote of the Trip

Day-by-Day account making up the bulk of the trip report, including

Is 16 SWT visits too many?    

Chart of the 4 Sheldrick sites visited and compared--Page 3

Surprise Guest Appearance

Mara Conservancy map

Phone reunion after 20 years

           

             

Umani Springs

 

 

Ithumba, Tsavo East, fed by one of the keepers

 

 

Ithumba, Tsavo East, Wild elephants and former orphans mix

 

 

Ithumba, Tsavo East, Wild elephants come to the waterhole during the dry season.  The closest other source of water is the Athi River 27 km away.

 

 

 

We saw more than elephants.   Porini Cheetah Camp in Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masa Mara

 

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 2022 by Atravelynn

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Atravelynn:

 

Talk about Christmas season surprises...this post is delightful.

 

The originality underlying the post, with images of Safaritalk friends, is inspiring.

 

You set a high standard in your trip reports, but this is especially pleasing.

 

Thank you so much!

 

      Tom K.

[Kitsafari]

a beautiful and poignant start @Atravelynn that gives lots of promising adventures and wonderful stories. 

 

Enchanting elephants, and what a wonderful feeling to be touched by a Jumbo.

 

Looking forward to more! 

[pault]

Lovely photo of Jane, Lynn. Wonderful that she could do this with you all.

 

Safari fashion!  

[Toxic]

Such beautiful photos that really capture how at peace everyone is in these happy moments. And those sweet cubs at the end are just the cherry on top of a very delicious cake!  Will be following with intense interest 

 

 

[mtanenbaum]

Thanks so much for posting. I am looking forward to making a similar trip this fall! 

[Atravelynn]

17 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

Talk about Christmas season surprises...this post is delightful.  Hopefully it will be wrapped up well before St. Patrick's Day!

      Tom K.

 

16 hours ago, Kitsafari said:

Enchanting elephants, and what a wonderful feeling to be touched by a Jumbo. I'll always remember that feeling!

 

 

14 hours ago, pault said:

Lovely photo of Jane, Lynn. Wonderful that she could do this with you all.  She made the most of it!

 

11 hours ago, Toxic said:

Such beautiful photos that really capture how at peace everyone is in these happy moments. And those sweet cubs at the end are just the cherry on top of a very delicious cake!   An embarrassment of riches, yes. Will be following with intense interest 

 

1 hour ago, mtanenbaum said:

Thanks so much for posting. I am looking forward to making a similar trip this fall!  Very exciting.  I read you planned to go on Penolva's thread.  A great time to be going so that the wild elephants come to the waterhole and mix with the orphans.

 

@penolvaalso made two similar trips and has a wealth of specifics, details, stunning photos and names of the various elephants in her report that should be of interest to anyone contemplating this kind of itinerary.  She and her travelmates were as enchanted as we were. “Dream come true” was the description.  It’s nice to see this consistent sentiment from so many, both men and women.  Here are her two reports:

 

 

To visit any of these orphanages, it is necessary to adopt at least one animal through Sheldricks for $50/year.  Bring that documentation with you. 

 

Edited December 18, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Caracal]

Great start @Atravelynnand those wild elephants at the water hole look impressive.

I confess that with all sorts of different thoughts going through my mind I had to google testudophile !

Looking forward to learning about the 3 surprises and much more.

[Atravelynn]

3 Biggest Surprises of the Trip

 

1.  We all agreed that the quality and intimacy of the elephant encounters was more than we anticipated, even after reading and seeing other accounts.  It was such a privilege to enter the special world shared by the keepers and elephants. We got to experience the array of unhurried, elephant-centered daily activities as they unfolded at 6 am, 11 am and 5 pm, and one private Sheldrick Nairobi visit at 3 pm.  Each unique, uplifting and heartwarming visit (and there were 16!!) took place in a natural and nurturing setting.  Our enlightening encounters with dedicated staff and captivating elephants were personal and touching.

 

Unauthorized Greeting at Ithumba

 

 

Umani, 6 am visit - Lynn

 

 

Voi, Tsavo East, 11 am visit

 

 

Voi, Tsavo East, 11 am visit – Lynn

 

 

Umani – Jane has lost her walking stick that Gamewatchers Guide Nicholas bought for her as a gift from the Masai overnight guard at Ololo.  The camera bag is next. 

Jane was eventually reunited with all her belongings.

 

 

2.  The accommodations and food far surpassed our expectations.  The Sheldrick properties we stayed at are amazingly beautiful and comfortable.  True luxury in the bush!  My few photos don’t do justice to these accommodations.  Maybe my safarimates have better ones to share. @penolva also has some lovely lodging photos in her reports, linked above.

 

 

Since our accommodations were rented out just to our group of six, that feeling of being in a remote and magical cocoon extended from the elephant reintegration units to  the lodging.

Umani Springs in Kibwezi Forest

 

 

The largest cottage at Umani Springs, occupied by Claudia, but we referred to it as the Angelina Jolie Cottage

 

 

Umani Springs in Kibwezi Forest with one of the many resident bushbucks

 

 

Umani Springs in Kibwezi Forest - Nancy relaxing

 

 

Table setting at Umani Springs in Kibwezi Forest

 

 

Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

Ithumba Hill in Tsavo East - place setting

 

 

And the food!  Each location, along with Kimana House, had its own chef that transformed the food purchased, packed into cold storage units, and transferred by Gamewatchers into fabulous meals.  We all constantly marveled at the cuisine.

Surprise #3 in next post

Edited December 19, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

3 minutes ago, Caracal said:

Great start @Atravelynnand those wild elephants at the water hole look impressive.  Some big tusks.  Very relaxed guys, though.

I confess that with all sorts of different thoughts going through my mind I had to google testudophile !  Me too, that's how I found it!

Looking forward to learning about the 3 surprises and much more.

 

[Atravelynn]

Continuing with the 3rd of 3 biggest surprises

3.  Not only were the accommodations lovely, but the resident and surrounding wildlife was abundant enough so it did not feel like you had to give up general wildlife viewing in order to visit the elephant orphanages.

 

 

--Sheldrick’s in Nairobi can be accompanied by visits to Nairobi National Park (and all of us did at least one, I did three), home to black and white rhino (and we all saw more than one rhino), lions, and lots of plains game.

White Rhino, Nairobi National Park

 

 

Male is flehming, checking the female’s scent.  Nairobi National Park

 

 

3 Giraffe, Nairobi National Park

 

 

Nairobi National Park

 

 

--Umani Springs in the Kibwezi Forest had dozens of bushbucks roaming the grounds, abundant birdlife, vervets, Sykes monkeys, baboons, a turtle, plus a harmless Battersby Green Snake that lived in the walls of one of the showers.

Umani Springs grounds, bushbuck

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, bushbuck

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, yellow baboons and bushbuck

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, Sykes or Blue Monkey

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, Sykes or Blue Monkey

 

 

Umani Springs grounds vervets

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, vervets

 

 

Umani Springs grounds, Trumpeter Hornbill

 

 

Non-poisonous Battersby Green Snake peeking out from the shower wall at Umani Springs

 

A small crocodile living in the man-made pond eluded photos, but we were told a cute story about it.  The resident croc had a sparse diet of only some scrawny fish and the occasional vervet that came to drink.  There was a Hammerkop and a turtle that shared the pond as friends and were never considered by the croc to be a source of food.  With the croc’s wellbeing in mind, he was captured from the pond and relocated to the wild springs with a more suitable habitat and a better food supply.  The Hammerkop and turtle were on their own only about 24 hours before being joined again by their crocodile friend, who had traveled several kilometers all night to return to his buddies and the pond he called home.

Umani Springs Grounds, home of the croc, Hammerkop and turtle.  The wading birds at the edge of the pond are statues.

 

 

Umani Springs Grounds, Hammerkop, friend of the croc

 

Umani Springs Grounds, Turtle, friend of the croc

 

 

--Little Galdessa in Tsavo East is where we stayed for three nights when visiting the Voi Elephant Stockades. We enjoyed lots of elephant and other animal activity along the Galana River, often right from the lounge.  Game drives in Tsavo East, whether around Little Galdessa or venturing to the stockades in Voi, produced a total of 8 lions, 5 cheetah and those classic red sand covered eles.  We also saw Crested Francolin, Lesser Kudu and Gerenuk.

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa (1 of 5 cheetahs seen by the combination of two vehicles)

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa. (1 of 9 total lions seen)

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa. (1 of 9 total lions seen)

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa, female gerenuk

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa, 1st of 3 photographable Lesser Kudu sightings

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa, near Voi.  “Elephants as red as you could want.”  ~Sangeeta

 

 

Tsavo East, game drive from Little Galdessa, near Voi

 

 

Viewed from Little Galdessa, elephants crossing the Galana River

 

 

 

Viewed from Little Galdessa, elephants crossing the Galana River

 

 

At Little Galdessa, Tsavo East

 

 

At Little Galdessa, Grey-headed kingfisher

 

 

 

--Ithumba had the least amount of wildlife at the gorgeous Ithumba Hill location where we stayed, however the waterholes and grounds at the Ithumba Stockade were a wildlife magnet.  Jackals, birds, baboons, rock hyraxes and even wild dogs made appearances.  @penolva and her group saw the dogs at Ithumba in 2019.  The keepers said the wild dogs often appear in the morning.

Rock Hyraxes in the trees, near the Ithumba elephant waterhole

 

 

Peregrine Falcon made a kill near the Ithumba elephant waterhole

 

 

Wild dogs taunt the elephant orphans at Ithumba

 

 

Wild dogs visit Ithumba

 

 

Wild dogs visit Ithumba

 

--Logistically it worked well to add Kimana Sanctuary (where there was not an elephant orphanage) to the front end of the trip, for game drives within the important elephant and wildlife corridor of Kimana Sancturary and also in the prolific Amboseli National Park (an hour away). It seems many SWT itineraries include Amboseli, whether Kimana is included or not.  The next post has a map showing Kimana and the other destinations.

Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Kimana Sanctuary, Flock of 19 young ostriches.  What’s at the end of the rainbow?  Ostriches!

 

 

Amboseli, an hour from Kimana House in Kimana Sanctuary

 

 

Amboseli, an hour from Kimana House in Kimana Sanctuary, Cape Buffalo

 

 

Grey Crowned Crane in Amboseli

 

 

Finally, we tacked on 4 nights at Porini Cheetah in the Ol Kinyei Conservancy of the Masai Mara to really pump up the game viewing and we were well rewarded.  But even without this Mara extension, there was a satisfying variety of wildlife in addition to the elephants at the Sheldrick re-introduction units.

Game drive from Cheetah Porini, in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies

 

 

Game drive from Cheetah Porini, in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies

 

 

 

Game drive from Cheetah Porini, in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies, Ilkisiusiu Pride

 

 

Game drive from Cheetah Porini, in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies

 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Covid Stuff

The rules and procedures could be confusing for flights and entry into Kenya.  A good agent, such as Chalo, can help with how to comply withthe latest requirements.  Please feel free to PM  me about traveling to Kenya and covid if you wish.

 

At Wilson Airport in Nairobi we were required to wear those blue disposable masks or N95s or similar to board the plane.  I had a fabric mask (3-ply, full coverage, adjustable straps, rather expensive as masks go) that was not allowed.

 

All Gamewatchers staff are vaccinated.  All Sheldrick Staff are vaccinated.  Masks were not required at any of the Sheldrick re-integration units except the Nairobi one. The foster parent only visits at the Nairobi SWT elephant visiting center were cancelled due to covid, but the public visits and private visits were still on and we did both.

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Masai Giraffe in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Southern Breakaway Pride in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Lilac-breasted Roller in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho

 

 

Ithumba—3 generations and an unrelated big guy on the far left.  Grandmother former orphan (center) with her adult, wild-born, daughter on the right.  The adult daughter has her own young wild-born calf under her trunk.  The grandmother also has another wild-born daughter stepping forward on her left.  A heartwarming family scene.

 

 

Map of the Driving Part of our Trip to Kimana and Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Sites (The red line does not represent roads or highways, just the general direction and order we went.)

 

Day-by-Day Itinerary with drive times in next post.

Edited December 20, 2021 by Atravelynn

[TonyQ]

A great read for the winter (here). Beautiful photos. Great to see the joy on Jane's face, having her wish fulfilled.

[Atravelynn]

1 hour ago, TonyQ said:

A great read for the winter (here). Beautiful photos. Great to see the joy on Jane's face, having her wish fulfilled.  Fortunately there were many such smiles.

 

[Toxic]

17 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

 

Oh my goodness, how precious! Beautiful photos! 

[Atravelynn]

4 hours ago, Toxic said:

 

Oh my goodness, how precious! Beautiful photos!  I do find them precious!

Yes, I spent an afternoon with a troop of vervets behind the big Umani Spring cottage we called "The Angelina Jolie." 

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Atravelynn:

 

As if the wealth of “I wish that I'd taken that photo” images weren't more than enough to whet any safari lover's appetite for game drives, the portrait of a leering Philothamnus battersbyi voyeur in the Umani Springs shower wall is a delightful close to 2021.

 

Thank you so much for the map, text, and images.

 

      Tom K.

[Atravelynn]

Nairobi National Park, Fish Eagles

 

 

Umani Springs

 

 

Tsavo East near Voi, midday heat

 

 

 

Itinerary

 

Booking a direct US-to-Nairobi flight to avoid possible covid issues, and allowing time for covid testing before our return meant we had to add days to both ends of our itinerary after it had been nailed down and paid for. Those extra days to accommodate the Covid issues are in gray.

 

 

Day 1 Oct 27  Meet at JFK for a 1:45 pm Kenya Airways flight to NBO.

 

 

Day 2 Oct 28  Arrive Nairobi at 10 :30 am.  25 minute transfer from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport to Nairobi National Park entrance gate, change vehicles then 35 minutes through the park to Ololo Safari Lodge.  Afternoon game drive in NBO Nat Park. O/nt Ololo Safari Lodge.

 

 

Day 3 Oct 29  Morning game drive in NBO Nat Park.  Ololo to Utamaduni Craft Center, 50 minutes.  Lunch at Utamaduni Craft Center at the café then on to Runda B&B, 45 minutes.  O/nt Runda B&B in Runda, NBO.

 

 

Day 4 Oct 30  Runda B&B to Kimana Sanctuary with a 30 minute stop, 8 am – 2:30 pm. Late afternoon game drive in Kimana Sanctuary.  O/nt Kimana House.

 

 

Day 5 Oct 31  Morning and afternoon game drives in Kimana Sanctuary. O/nt Kimana House. 

 

 

Day 6 Nov 1  Full day in Amboseli, an hour from Kimana, 6:10 am – 5:10 pm.  O/nt Kimana House.

 

 

Day 7 Nov 2  Kimana House to Umani Springs, 7:45 am – 10:30 am.  11 am & 5 pm ele visits, 3 minutes from Umani Springs.  O/nt Umani Springs.

 

 

Day 8 Nov 3  6 am, 11 am, 5 pm ele visits, 3 minutes from Umani Springs.  Night drive in Kibwezi Forest.  O/nt Umani Springs.

 

 

Day 9 Nov 4  6 am ele visit, 3 minutes from Umani Springs.   Umani Springs to Voi Stockade Headquarters in Tsavo East, 7:40 am – 10:50 am. 11 am ele vist, then 90-minute drive to Little Galdessa.  Late afternoon game drive in Tsavo East in area around Little Galdessa.  O/nt Little Galdessa.

 

 

Day 10 Nov 5  Morning and afternoon game drive in Tsavo East, in area around Little Galdessa.  O/nt Little Galdessa.

 

 

Day 11 Nov 6  Morning game drive to Voi Stockade for  an 11 am ele visit.  Game drive back to Little Galdessa for a long outing, 6:10 am – 3:15 pm. Late afternoon game drive in area around Little Galdessa.  O/nt Little Galdessa.

 

 

Day 12 Nov 7  Little Galdessa to Ithumba,  8 am – 10-40 am.  11 am & 5 pm ele visits, 12 minutes from Ithumba Hill.  O/nt Ithumba Hill.

 

 

Day 13 Nov 8  6 am, 11 am, 5 pm ele visits, 12 minutes from Ithumba Hill.  O/nt Ithumba Hill.

 

 

Day 14 Nov 9  6 am ele visit, 12 minutes from Ithumba Hill.    Ithumba Hill to Tamarind Tree Hotel, Nairobi, 9:30 am - 3:40 pm with a 30 minute stop. O/nt Tamarind Tree Hotel.

 

 

Day 15 Nov 10  8:30 am visit to Nairobi National Museum, 25 minutes from Tamarind Tree Hotel. 11 am public visit at Sheldrick’s, 20 minutes from Tamarind Tree Hotel.   3 pm private visit at Sheldrick’s, 20 minutes from Tamarind Tree Hotel.  Kazuri Beads, 20 minutes from Tamarind Tree Hotel followed by dinner at Talisman Restaurant, 15 minutes from Kazuri beads then 15 minutes to Tamarind Hotel.  O/nt Tamarind Hotel.

 

 

Day 16 Nov 11  Tamarind Tree Hotel to Wilson Airport, 10 minutes.  10 am departure, 40-minute flight from Wilson to Naboisho Ol Seki Airstrip and 40-minute drive to Porini Cheetah Camp in the neighboring conservancy, Ol Kinyei.  Afternoon game drive.  O/nt Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei Conservancy.

 

 

Day 17 Nov 12  Morning and afternoon game drive in Ol Kinyei and Naboisho Conservancies.  Night Drive, O/nt Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei Conservancy.

 

 

Day 18 Nov 13 Full day drive to the Mara River in the Masai Mara National Reserve, 6am – 6 pm.  O/nt Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei Conservancy.

 

 

Day 19 Nov 14  Morning and afternoon game drive in Ol Kinyei and Naboisho Conservancies.  O/nt Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei Conservancy.

 

 

Day 20 Nov 15  Morning game drive, noon Covid testing at camp after lunch, 1:30 pm departure from camp for 3 pm flight at Naboisho Ol Seki Airstrip.  50-minute flight from Naboisho Ol Seki Airstrip to Wilson.  4 members O/nt Sheridan Airport Hotel, 1 member had a 15 minute transfer from Wilson to  Nairobi National Park entrance gate, change vehicles then 20 minutes through the park to Nairobi  Tented Camp.  O/nt Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp.

 

 

Day 21 Nov 16  4 members spent the day shopping, lunching, relaxing; 1 member did a morning game drive in Nairobi National Park.  Sangeeta and Atravelynn went to safaritalk member @optig's for a delicious lunch and visit.  Back to Sheridan Airport Hotel Day room and our final dinner together at the hotel.  Depart for airport in Sheridan Shuttle at 8:30 pm for 11:35 pm flight to JFK.

 

 

Without the extra days to deal with covid issues we would have missed the lovely Ololo Lodge and 2 animal-packed days in Nairobi National Park, including a suni antelope at Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp.

 

Suni Antelope seen on the grounds of Gamewatchers Nairobi Tented Camp in NBO Nat Park

 

 

What time of year to go?  The orphan elephants will be present year-round, but to see the wild elephants too, the best time is the dry season July-Sept.  When there has been rain, the wild elephants do not come to the man-made waterholes. Especially at Ithumba, a highlight was seeing the inter-mixing of current orphans, former orphans, and wild elephants, so it’s wise to choose a time of year when a scene like that is possible.  The lack of rain into Nov of 2021 meant the wild elephants were still frequenting the Ithumba waterhole during our visit.

Former orphans and wild elephants make their way to the Ithumba waterhole

 

 

Big wild tusks at Ithumba, lounging near the waterhole

 

As wonderful as this itinerary was, along the way we kept tabs on how it could be improved and Sangeeta has ideas for the next time.   Swapping long drives to/from Nairobi for a flight or maybe even a train is a possibility.  I find baby elephants combined with train travel to be a romantically charming combination.

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei & Naboisho, 3 of 6 3-month old cubs from Lemuny Pride

 

 

Game Drive from Porini Cheetah, Ol Kinyei & Naboisho, 2 of 3 5-month old cubs

 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

22 minutes ago, Tom Kellie said:

~ @Atravelynn:

 

As if the wealth of “I wish that I'd taken that photo” images weren't more than enough to whet any safari lover's appetite for game drives, the portrait of a leering Philothamnus battersbyi voyeur  Whether the snake spent time leering at the occupants of Cottage #4 as they freshened up, I don't know for certain, but I do know that I spent 45 minutes peeking around the corner hoping the snake would reappear.  It finally did.  Thank you to Jill who alerted us to this interesting creature.  She took some nice photos of it too.  in the Umani Springs shower wall is a delightful close to 2021.  That's a novel way to ring out the old year!

 

Thank you so much for the map, text, and images.  And thank you for your always unique comments!

 

      Tom K.

 

[Atravelynn]

 

Amboseli, day trip from Kimana Sanctuary, one hour away

 

 

Cub from Southern Breakaway Pride, Game drive from Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies

 

 

Game drive from Porini Cheetah in Ol Kinyei & Naboisho Conservancies

 

Special thank yous to:

Chalo and Sangeeta—Originally planned for 2020, this trip went through loss of participants, changes in dates and several revisions in the itinerary to accommodate changes beyond any of our control.  But Chalo made it all happen!  The pre-trip covid testing and documentation could get confusing and anxiety-producing, but Chalo was there assisting and assuring us every step of the way.  As I’ve told @Sangeeta several times with respect to all the new protocols, “We are all needy clients now.”  I saw firsthand how Chalo repeatedly went to extreme measures from sending money to far flung locations when a client unexpectedly ran short to securing a walker at a moment’s notice, all to ensure a good travel experience for their clients.

Sangeeta at Sheldrick’s in Nairobi during our private visit

 

Gamewatchers—We had some unique circumstances that required nothing short of exceptional service, and that is what we got.  Jane’s needs for extra assistance, that intensified as our trip went on, were met with tremendous care, patience and compassion by Nicholas and Alan, our two Gamewatchers guides.  Nicholas, especially, took charge of caring for Jane, as she was most comfortable with the seat configuration in his vehicle.  Nicholas even purchased a Masai walking stick from our night guard at Ololo as a gift to assist Jane in walking.  Nicholas explained to us that his father had taught him to always be as helpful as possible to others.  We all told Nicholas to thank his father for instilling such honorable values in his son!

Nicholas and Alan from Gamewatchers at Ithumba Hill

 

The Nairobi Tented Camp Gamewatchers staff also deserve accolades.  I had heard about a resident suni antelope at their camp and was keen to see it.  The whole staff knew I was looking for the suni during my stay, which lasted about 18 hours total. With only an hour before I had to check out and just a single glimpse of one scampering male suni, it looked like I might not get photos of this rare antelope.  Then, as I was packing up to leave, there was a knock at my door.  Would I like to go behind the staff tents to see the suni?  Of course I would!  Two camp staff members escorted me to a pair of suni that I would never have located on my own.

Male suni antelope scampering past at Nariobi Tented Camp

 

Sheldrick’s Wildlife Trust and all the keepers—What an outstanding organization!   Such a level of excellence is only possible because of the dedication and love of all of the keepers.  Their devotion to the elephants was obvious through their words and especially their actions with all the elephants, whether current orphans, former orphans or the wild elephants.  The respect shown by the elephants toward the keepers was also impressive.  The elephant-centric approach and goal of returning the young elephants to their natural habitat while also protecting that habitat was evident. 

Umani Springs

 

Umani Springs

 

Preparing bottles in Umani Springs

 

 

Sheldrick’s feeding

 

 

 

Ithumba feedings

 

Rarely is the focus and mission of an organization so evident with all people and elements in line to achieve that mission.  The only other place I can recall that comes close to this all-hands-on-deck focus I experienced at Sheldrick’s is Mayo Clinic! Sheldrick’s Wildlife Trust deserves to be described as “the first and most successful elephant orphan rescue and rehabilitation program in the world.”

Ithumba

 

Owen/@Optig – Thank you for kindly inviting Sangeeta and me for lunch at your Nairobi apartment.  Always nice to see you, Owen, and visit.  Lunch was outstanding and Owen’s enthusiasm for Africa is always enjoyable.  Thanks for the hospitality and a lovely afternoon!  Owen saw the wild dogs at Ithumba too!

Wild dogs at Ithumba

 

Quote of the Trip:  Team work makes the dream work

Provided by Jane early on, she made sure we knew that she was not the author.  Regardless, it was the perfect motto for our trip.  Each of us played a role in making the trip work for Jane and for our team.

Little Galdessa and Jane

 

 

Safarimate team members, please contribute your experiences, photos, musings, etc if you wish!

Edited December 29, 2021 by Atravelynn

[Toxic]

@AtravelynnThank you again for such a beautiful trip report and all the photos!  It really is a small world too - Alan was my guide in Ol Pejeta and Nicholas was the one who drove me from Nairobi to Selenkay. Great guys! :-) 

[Atravelynn]

3 hours ago, Toxic said:

@AtravelynnThank you again for such a beautiful trip report and all the photos!  It really is a small world too - Alan was my guide in Ol Pejeta and Nicholas was the one who drove me from Nairobi to Selenkay. Great guys! :-) 

Now that is a coincidence!  Yes, they are great guys!

----------------------

The Adapter—G-type

This adapter was used successfully by me and by another member of our group throughout the trip.  It is the G-type.  The photos show the adapter placed on Jane’s gift to us all, and also placed on the paper in which the gift was wrapped.  We now all have a Sheldrick’s bandana that we can use for future adventures and remember Jane.  I used mine a lot on this safari.  The Sheldrick’s bandana will make another appearance during the trip report.

 

G adapter used in Kenya.  Displayed on the bandana, Jane’s gift to each of us.

 

 

 

 

G adapter used in Kenya.  Displayed on the giftwrap Jane used to wrap our Sheldrick’s bandana gifts.

Next is day by day account of our trip

Edited December 22, 2021 by Atravelynn

[GBE]

Wonderful...

Inspiring...

Uplifting...

Heartfelt...

More than a report, I think you're delivering a great gift worthy of this holiday season.  And more so, I think you... and Jane... and your 'safarimates' represent the endearing side of ST that makes it/us a true community.  Thank you,

[Atravelynn]

27 minutes ago, GBE said:

Wonderful...

Inspiring...

Uplifting...

Heartfelt...

More than a report, I think you're delivering a great gift worthy of this holiday season.  And more so, I think you... and Jane... and your 'safarimates' represent the endearing side of ST that makes it/us a true community.  Thank you,

Thank you for such beautiful words, GBE!  It is a great community

[Atravelynn]

Day by Day Account of the 2021 Trip

 

 

Day 1 Oct 27 

5/6 of the team departed JFK for NBO on Kenya Airways.  1/6 of the team had a flight change that caused a missed flight.  Lots of hurried communication with Sangeeta and the Chalo office and our missing team member culminated in a new flight booked for an arrival in Nairobi only 12 hours after the 5/6.  Good job Chalo!

 

Day 2 Oct 28

 

On the ride from the airport through Nairobi National Park to Ololo Safari Lodge, we saw our first rhinos, just before noon.

White rhino & reedbuck, Nairobi National Park, 11:45 am

 

 

White rhino, Nairobi National Park, 11:45 am

 

 

A croc was the 1^st sighting in NBO National Park and  surprisingly 1 of only 2 croc photos I took this whole trip.

 

 

We had an afternoon game drive on the day of our arrival—after lunch and a restorative nap of an hour or two--and then the next morning another game drive, for a total of two outings from Ololo Lodge.

Fish Eagles, NBO Nat Park

 

 

Fish Eagles, NBO Nat Park

 

 

Entwined ostriches, females, NBO Nat Park

 

 

We were told there were 45-50 lions in Nairobi National Park. A recent article states that the carrying capacity is 40 lions and the current population is over 45, right in line with the info we got.

 https://www.the-star.co.ke/news/2021-12-13-no-more-space-for-lions-at-nairobi-park/ 

 

@COSMIC RHINOrecently posted information that another 2,000 acres has been added to the park for its 75^th birthday!

https://www.safaritalk.net/topic/21891-2000-acres-added-to-nairobi-national-park/?tab=comments#comment-337626

This birthday gift is a welcome addition to the existing 117 square kilometers of this gem, the only national park in a city.

 

Guide Gordon from Nairobi Tented Camp, where I stayed at the end of the trip said lions are seen mainly in the morning rather than the afternoon in the park.  I saw them each of two mornings and not on the one afternoon outing.  Past visits to the park also followed that rule when I think back.

NBO Nat Park, 6:20 am

 

 

7:15 am, NBO Nat Park (from a game drive on another visit to the park at the end of the trip)

 

 

Eland, NBO National Park

 

 

Ngong Hills in distance, seen on game drive, NBO National Park at 6:05 pm

 

 

One of my goals for Nairobi National Park was to get animals in front of the skyline and buildings.  For most safari photos, anything man-made such as vehicles, fencing or buildings is avoided.  But in Nairobi National Park, photos with the man-made skyline in the back are a goal.

White rhino, NBO National Park.  If downtown skyscrapers were in the background that would have been better, but that’s not where the rhino were grazing. 11:45 am

 

 

NBO Nat Park and Cape Buffalo, afternoon

 

 

NBO Nat Park, Coke’s Hartebeest, afternoon

 

 

NBO Nat Park, 8:30 am (from a game drive on another visit to the park at the end of the trip)

 

 

NBO Nat Park, 5:45 pm

 

 

NBO Nat Park, 5:45 pm

 

 

NBO Nat Park, 5:45 pm

 

 

We all loved Ololo Safari Lodge!  It offers rooms for all tastes and budgets from a Tower Room to former stables made into small rooms.  The stable room I had was so adorably charming.

Ololo stables made into comfortable rooms, where I stayed

 

 

 

My Ololo stable room, very charming and comfortable

 

The food was excellent, the ambiance was captivating and there was lots of birdlife on the grounds or at the Mbagathi River and bridge.  It was safe to spend time on the bridge alone, and I did, looking for birds.

 

Bridge over Mbagathi River at Ololo Lodge

 

 

Hadada Ibis at the Mbagathi River, Ololo Lodge

 

 

Egyptian Geese at the Mbagathi River, Ololo Lodge

 

 

Black Cuckooshrike at the Mbagathi River, Ololo Lodge

 

 

Variable Sunbird on Ololo grounds

 

Here’s an example of Ololo’s  outstanding, attentive staff:  Upon arrival my luggage was missing and Ololo several staff members called Kenya Airways on different phones to see who could get through first and the winner arranged for a pickup which required an extra late-night trip to the airport and back. 

 

Throughout the trip one or the other of us would often remark, just out of the blue, how lovely our first stop at Ololo was and how much we enjoyed staying there, and how we would have stayed longer if we could. Ololo made quite an impression.  Ololo was added to our itinerary, due to covid issues that affected our international flight plans and our date of arrival in Nairobi.  A fortunate addition indeed.

 

One last Ololo note:  If you play the piano, there is one there.  I played Born Free on it and Freddy the dog was my audience.  I’m glad he did not howl.

 

Friendly Freddy at Ololo

 

 

Black Rhino, NBO Nat Park

 

 

Black Rhino, Good-bye to NBO Nat Park

 

Edited December 23, 2021 by Atravelynn