Costa Rica 2018: Birdin' in the Rain

[michael-ibk]

 

We could not believe our luck when we got to Playa Gemelas and it was - empty! So we simply could not resist this opportunity to have a swim here. While it would have been tempting to go both in at the same time it would not have been wise to leave all our gear unguarded so we took turns. It felt great taking a plunge in the Pacific - it would have been a real shame to travel to a country surrounded by two different oceans and never go in.

 

 

 

Spiny-Tailed Iguana standing guard for us.

 

 

 

 

Laughing Falcon

 

 

On the way out we found some White-Tailed Deer enjoying their fruity dinner.

 

 

 

The weather was just too nice to return to our accommodation so we went to the public beach to enjoy the sunset - the trip´s only one kind of deserving of that term. And a delicious lobster dinner with incredibly strong Pina Coladas afterwards perfectly completed this surprisingly enjoyable day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2018 by michael-ibk

[PeterHG]

I'm glad you still enjoyed Manuel Antonio after the initial reservations. Some good animals in spite of ( or because of) the crowds and a beautiful farewell sunset!

[michael-ibk]

Thank you Peter - almost but not completely done. We only had to depart for our flight at 12:00 so still had the entire morning. We decided to do a boat tour to Isla Damas. This is a small island not far from Manuel Antonio which is particularly noted for its estituaries lines with mangroves. Our receptionist (an extremely nice and helpful guy who also allowed a late check-out) organised a boat for us.

 

 

We did not have to share, this was all for us - great for photography.

 

 

The weather god had decided we should see Costa Rica on our last day at its very best - not a single cloud was spoiling the perfect blue sky. Very few other boats were encountered, and we enjoyed a truly peaceful and lovely morning.

 

 

Green Heron

 

 

Little Blue Heron

 

 

Spotted Sandpiper - we´d see dozens of them.

 

 

 

 

 

Striped Basilisk

 

 

 

 

 

A Heron´s way of getting in his lady´s good graces.

 

 

 

 

Black River Turtle

 

 

 

The Capuchins were curious about us and closely inspected our boat - some of them even hopped on it.

 

 

 

 

A camouflaged selfie if you look closely.

 

 

 

Snowy Egret

 

 

 

Greater Yellowlegs

 

 

Willet

 

 

With Whimbrel

 

 

Over and out.

Edited November 19, 2018 by michael-ibk

[michael-ibk]

I could have done without all the rain, especially in the first week.

 

Other than that I really enjoyed Costa Rica and would gladly go back. The variety and multicoloured extravaganza of birds is breathtaking, I loved the Hummingbirds especially - yes, even more than the Quetzal. Seeing a Sloth had always been very high on my list, and I was very happy to get both species. And I was surprised how delighted I was about finding the very cool frogs. The variety is not only found in animals but also in habitats - it´s fascinating how many different kind of landscapes this country can pack onto its comparatively small landmass.

 

I had been aware that Costa Rica is not "Third World" in any sense but still was surprised about how good the infrastructure is. This is simply a good country to live in - and the Ticos know it. Costa Rica regularly tops the "Happy Planet Index". Happy people are friendly people, and the general positive attitude by pretty much everybody makes travelling around the country very easy.

 

We really owe to @xelas who organised the whole trip, devised a perfect itinerary and safely drove us for hundreds and hundreds of kilometres, never getting tired. And, along with Zvezda, simply was great company. Many thanks, my friends, it was a pleasure and a privilege experience Costa Rica with you!

 

And thanks to all readers for all comments and "Likes".

 

Not the end of this report of course - stay tuned for a whole more week of CR goodness narrated by Alex. I look forward to learn what you experienced  - I might have heard about a couple of excellent sightings.

[Dave Williams]

Brilliant trip reporting from you all and superb photos to illustrate it too..

Your unknown Frog in post 213 might be a Savage's Thin-toed Frog (Leptodactylus savagei) Michael.

[xelas]

There is nothing to be added to Michael's excellent description of Manuel Antonio. Coming from Osa is like a shock to all senses. But deep inside it hides some really nice surprises.

 

In last week Costa Rica finally decided to show us its sunny side: blue skies, white clouds, deep greens. While weather is unpredictable, Costa Rica is very predictable: it charms are easy to find. Biodiversity is just phenomenal, and we have not even dedicated any time to critters. Next time. 

 

Travelling with Andreas and Michael was a revelation for us who have never travelled accompanied for such a long period of time. They were fun and always a gentlemen, Zvezda really appreciated that aspect of our company. And Michael, he is just restless when birds or wildlife in general is in question. On our own we would never be able to get so many different birds.

 

A couple of butterflies and flowers, and one more No.1 mammal in its signature pose specially for Andreas. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

Alas, all great things must come to an end — sorry to see you all depart, Michael, but how fitting that you concluded with a beautiful afternoon at the beach and a sloth bidding you farewell. By the way, I meant to mention that your photos of the squirrel monkeys at Bosque del Cabo are really incredible. Those aren’t the easiest to get. 

 

Alex, looking forward to a continuation of the journey by you and Zvezda!

[Atravelynn]

The brown pelicans have choreographed their act nicely!

[Atravelynn]

The sun came out and you swam in your "private" ocean.  What a great way to end!

 

"only four Costa Rica endemics" -- that surprises me but I guess there is a lot of Central America sharing.

 

I am glad you had such a good time together and experienced such diverse wildlife, birdlife, and nature in Costa Rica.

 

[Zim Girl]

This trip report shows that a great journey was had by all.   @michael-ibkVery pleased to see that the weather was kind enough to see you off with some lovely blue skies and sunshine. The boat trip around the mangroves looked quite idyllic.

Looking forward to your last week @xelas

[Peter Connan]

Thank you very much for a magnificent trip report Michael.

 

I look forward to more from Alex! 

[xyz99]

I've finally caught up with the story and amazing photos, what a fantastic trip! Sorry about the rain, but it seems you still managed to see a lot and have a very good trip. All I can say, congrats! and ohhhh, I miss CR sooooo much!

[xelas]

4 hours ago, xyz99 said:

and ohhhh, I miss CR sooooo much!

 It is just a quick flight away, @xyz99 !

[CDL111]

It has been a great pleasure to read this report, together with quality photographs. Thank you all.

[xelas]

Costa Rica is home to one of the world’s biggest populations of American crocodiles (Crocodylus acutus). They can be found alongside smaller cousins caimans in every larger river, mostly in its estuaries. But the most famous ones are congregating in Rio Tarcoles; and as if they would be aware of the interest they are generating, their preferred spot is just below the bridge over the river. This one is now one of the "must stop" locations if driving to ro from Manuel Antonio. Of course we have had to stop also. As it is not recommendable to leave the vehicle with the luggage unattended (despite the fact that a police cruiser might be parked on the other side), I have stayed put (and I have seen the crocodiles there already) while Zvezda, Andreas and Michael have joined the crowds. 
 

 

 

 

Edited November 21, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

After successfully delivering the two guys to the airport in time, we have had some extra time but no extra energy, so Pura Vida Hotel was again a welcoming oasis. Another chalet for this night, aptly named "Rainforest", was as clean and as comfortable as the previous one. Next morning we woke up into a fresh, dry, sunny morning. A great introduction to our next destination.

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

BIJAGUA

 

 

There are several reasons why I wanted to visit this little known small town, situated on the northern side of the two volcanos, and two National Parks, Tenorio NP and Miravalles NP. One was that we have never been there. We were inside Tenorio NP but arriving from the southern side. Second was the fact that a long time member of Tripadvisor lives in Bijagua, and after many years and many email exchanges this was a good opportunity to meet with Hattie. The third one, and probably the most important one, was the wish to see why Casitas Tenorio -  http://www.casitastenorio.com - receives nothing but 5-star reviews. 

 

In short, we have scored on all three points. The area is really nice, scenic, and what is more important, still pretty much off the tourist radar. The nature is pristine, the small villages ooze the Tico vibe, and accommodations are all well reviewed. Nature in general is great, wildlife surprisingly diverse, and birds, well, just spectacular.

 

Casitas Tenorio is a small property about 3 minutes drive above Bijagua. It is run by a Tico - Aussie couple. He is Donald, a local man, and Pip came several years ago to visit Costa Rica. She met Donald, and as the story often goes, the rest is the history. Or better, the rest is the future of one fantastic small lodge with best staff that only can be rivalled by the quality of birdlife at the feeders. Pip hold the reins in and around the lodge, and Donald takes care of those visitors that wanted to experience what the area has to offer. He is a knowledgeable bird guide, and to support this activity, beside the already mentioned feeders, he and a partner have bought a plot of land, a valley and named it Tapir Valley. More about it later.

 

A few photos to show youe the place. There is nothing luxury about Casita Tenorio, but the welcoming and friendly vibe makes the visitor falling in love with it right away.

 

 

Main building where reception is; breakfast is served on a covered deck with feeders within arm's length

 

One detail that captured Zvezda's attention, and shows a lot about the place's character

 

Our casita

 

Inside is simple yet clean and comfortable

 

Another lovely touch

 

The huge glassed windows makes sitting inside (when it rains) almost like sitting outside

 

 

[xelas]

23 hours ago, xelas said:

Inside is simple yet clean and comfortable

 

Zvezda gave me a lecture about this sentence. The least I should have done is to use a comma instead of yet: Inside is simple, clean and comfortable.

Her words would be "well appointed, comfortable bed, spacious bathroom and overall pleasant room". Now you have both so choose whichever suits the photo better .

[xelas]

That part of the country is on the rainy side of the mountains, and indeed it started to rain soon after we arrived. But with a deck and feeders like those at Casitas Tenorio even a rainy day is a great day for birding.

 

Orange-chinned Parakeet

 

 

Feeding all those birds must be financially demanding, as food is quickly devoured by several of the large birds with biiiiiiiig bill .

 

Collared Aracari

 

 

 

 

Here, some of the species that otherwise could be observed only at some distance came very close.

 

Golden-olive Woodpecker

 

Hoffmann's Woodpecker

 

 

Yet the highlight of this first day was a mammal; already in the room when Donald came running to tell us come quick, and with a photo! And there it was, our very first Kinkajou !!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Alexander33]

Oh, wow, Kinkajou!  What a find @xelas  I’ve always wanted to see one.

 

Thanks for the tip on this area, with which I’m not familiar. 

[xyz99]

Kinkajou, so cool! I've never seen one...that was a very good encounter!

[xelas]

9 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

Thanks for the tip on this area, with which I’m not familiar. 

 

Bijagua is an absolute gem, Peter. Easy access to 3 different volcanoes (Tenorio, Miravalles and Rincon de la Vieja), its birdlife is excellent, and there is Cano Negro Wetlands within day trip distance. 

[Chakra]

@xelasI totally agree with your views on Bijagua. Still relatively unexplored compared to over commercialised places like Manuel Antonio. Wonderful landscape around Vulcan Tenorio NP, mind blowing Rio celeste waterfall and of course Cano Negro. Although I won't dash back to drive the last 25 km road to Cano Negro.  Very friendly locals. Sloths hang from each tree ( well may be a tad exaggeration ) and very decent accommodations. From pretty luxurious to basic but comfortable. Should be a must for everyone if you can cope with the rain. I am indeed jealous of the Kinkajou. Looked for it several times on night trips but no luck, even when accompanied by guides accomplished guides like Nito and Andy. 

[xelas]

@Chakra thanks for confirming my thoughts about that part of the country. Kinkajou was a lucky strike; but even better (luckier) is still to come!

Have you planned to revisit Costa Rica again?

[xelas]

I have been told Bijagua and around is prone to get more rainfall; there was a distinctive difference between much drier land around the PanAm Hwy (and west of it) against the eastern part. Must be the effect of those two volcanoes that catches the clouds and squeezes the water out of them. Which makes the area lush green, a real rain forest paradise. The best months to visit Bijagua, and nearby Cano Negro wetlands, is between December and April.

 

On our first full day we have woken up into another rainy morning. Which translated into a long lazy breakfast with birds. They were so colourful, and so close, photo opportunities were appearing at dazzling frequency. This time I am about to show the the sample of smaller birds. But the first visitor we have noticed was not a bird .

 

 

White-nosed Coati

 

Black-cheeked Woodpecker

 

 

The birds from the Tanager family were well represented.

 

Red-legged Honeycreeper, her, him and a baby

 

 

 

 

Green Honeycreeper, him and her

 

 

Blue-gray Tanager

 

Palm Tanager

 

 

Outside of the lodge, there were not that many birds, probably due to the rain. I have not taken many of the landscape photos but I hope below one will give you the idea about the area.