Costa Rica 2018: Birdin' in the Rain

[xelas]

CANO NEGRO

 

 

Time to move on. Cano Negro Wetlands was my target since 2010; we have went on a Cano Negro Boat Tour and sure enough, the only thing of Cano Negro Wetlands that we saw was a table on the entrance of the park. Because all of the boat tours organised out of La Fortuna are in fact Rio Frio boat tours ... but that does not sound good enough to attract enough customers. Although, wildlife wise, the Rio Frio boat tour was can be as good as the proper Cano Negro on. Only problem with proper Cano Negro is that it starts in tiny hamlet named Cano Negro, and there you can arrive by only two road: the bad road and the worse road. 

 

I was prepared for the bad road after reading Chak's report, and boy, the road turned to be even worse then he has described it. But we have started early, had plenty of time, and have stopped often to take photos. 

 

There are several lodges around the village, and we have decided to stay at Hotel de Campo - http://www.hoteldecampo.com - a nice garden, duplex houses, but quite spartan interior. They have a restaurant on site but it is a bit pricey, and as there is a soda in the village, we ate there two times. Same fare you will find all over the country, good but no gourmet food there.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 28, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

Cano Negro Wetlands is popular specially between December and April, with thousands of water birds coming from north. There are around 350 species of birds recorded in the area, but also mammals are plentiful, at around 160 species. Our captain said he has seen a jaguar at least once every month ... but then, he is on those waters daily.

 

The boat tour is around 3 hours, and one can get a boat&captain at the dock. However, when in season, it is better to book in advance. Also because captains are different in quality of birding skills and English language. We have done the afternoon tour with walk-in captain; he was good to point out larger birds but have not been that good to position the boat for the best position to photograph them, and of course he knew bird by local names ...

 

If planning to do some serious birding then best is to call the local tour operator Paraiso Tropical (they have a FB page); they will arrange a boat with an English speaking captain, and ours was also an excellent birder, and have had plenty of experiences of how to approach the bird not to scare it before we were able to take photos. This tour we have done the second day, early in the morning. As on previous days, also that day it rained, and at one time the captain positioned us in the middle of the lake as he was afraid that the thunderstorm might produce also lightning. It did, but at safe distance.

 

Despite the non-cooperative wether, we have enjoyed both boat tours; at lunch time we have met with a family that have arrived from Bijagua as a day tour; personally I would not want to drive that road twice in the same day.

 

Warning sign

 

 

 

 

Rain was never far away

 

 

Two types of boats

 

Our captain from the first day ...

 

... and our captain&birder from the second day

 

Local tour operator, dock is behind his office

 

Soda in the village

 

Looks good taste good

 

 

Edited November 28, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

Although it was not the best time to visit the wetlands, and the weather was also not on our side, we have seen enough to say the visit was more then worth the slow drive on the bad road. We have seen some of its signature inhabitants, and here below are images taken during our two boat trips.

 

On the warning sign a crocodile was mentioned; we have not seen any but Spectacled Caimans were often spotted, both in the water and on the water banks.

 

 

 

 

Next on the size scale is Green Iguana. Funny to see them hanging on branches above the water; one wonders how many of them falls down.

 

 

 

 

Smaller in size but more visible, in colour and in shape is Plumed Basiliscs (Green Basiliscs) aka Jesus Christ lizard.

 

 

 

A juvenile one

 

 

[xelas]

While seeing lizards is always good main interest of our visit were birds. Wetlands means water birds. 

 

Neotropic Cormorant

 

 

Anhinga

 

 

Green Heron

 

 

Cattle Egret

 

Great Egret

 

 

[xelas]

Kingfishers are never far from water, and they are always a joy to photograph. The American Pygmy Kingfisher was just too small and to quick but larger ones were friendlier.

 

Amazon Kingfisher female

 

Two male Amazon Kingfishers

 

 

 

Belted Kingfisher male

 

[xelas]

And last three photos from Cano Negro Wetlands, First two birds were seen only there, and last one is just so nice that earn the honor of closing the Cano Negro chapter.

 

Common Pauraque

 

Snail Kite

 

A family of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks

[xelas]

MONTEVERDE

 

 

For some people Monteverde is too crowded, while others hate the really bad roads but for us is is a must destination in Costa Rica. Not only because of its lush cloud forest or great birding and hiking, but foremost for the great person that lives there. Andreas "Andy" Alvardo was the guy that planted the seed of our love towards birds, and nature in general when we first visited Monteverde in 2008, and have the luck to have him as our personal guide. Today, ten years later, his love of "his" nature, his Monteverde is only stronger. He does not guide as often as before, as he started his own business, and also dedicate a lot of his time (and love) to his family. Luckily, he is our friend, so he was glad when I have called him, and took a day off his calendar for us. Here is where you can find more info about him: http://www.forestaliveexpeditions.com and his newly opened outdoor centre: http://www.forestaliveexpeditions.com/monteverde-outdoor-center - where we have purchased our new binoculars, excellent value and quality from not widely known company Athlon.

 

Again, for the third time in Monteverde, we have decided to stay at Rainbow Valley Lodge - https://www.rainbowvalleylodgecr.com/ - and it was even better then before! There are new cabins but old friendly welcome. With those views, one forget about the bumpy road quickly!

 

On the way to Monteverde

 

A quick encounter with a White-fronted Parrot

 

New cabin at Rainbow Valley Lodge is a comfortable studio (??) with large windows that gives you the feeling of floating with the clouds. And very modern also, with all needed amenities. They are in high demand and next year there will be more cabins for its many returning clients.

 

Bedroom with a view

 

Kitchen

 

Even the bathroom has a large window

 

Over the rainbow

 

An outdoor patio/balcony

 

A book, a beer and a view

 

Friendly coatis are always around

 

 

[xelas]

After a good sleep night (no need for an A/C in Monteverde ) we have been "up and running" at usual time. Andy waited for us at his shop, and first thing we went to find a Three-wattled Bellbird. To make the long story short, we have heard the bird but never saw it. So no photo this time.

 

Next we went to hike in one of three Biological Reserves in Monteverde. As we have been to Santa Elena reserve and Monteverde Cloud Forest reserve on our previous visits, this time we decided to explore Curi-Cancha Resaerve - https://reservacuricancha.com , the latest addition to the nature gems of Monteverde. But first we have stopped at CASEM -- Cooperative of Artisans where they serve the best cappuccino in Costa Rica!

 

 

 

Before entering, at the car park, we have had the first sightings!

 

Agouti having breakfast

 

Lesson's Motmot

 

Lesser Violetear

 

Slate-throated Redstart

 

Reserva is this way!

 

 

 

[xelas]

Inside of the reserva there are various paths, all well maintained and easy to walk, that leads you through various micro-habitats. Of course one need a specialise guide that can "open the doors"; to understand the meaning of my words you will have to hire Andy . He did not "opened the doors" he has literally opened our eyes!

 

Different types of path and forest

 

 

 

Andy explaining the ways of the nature

 

Our goal was also to get as many new birds as possible, and Andy helped us also with that. 

 

Its the bird up there!

 

Signature bird of Cloud Forest - Resplendent Quetzal (this time the female)

 

Spider monkeys are a bit different at this altitude

 

 

 

Hikers in the forest

 

We have ended our visit to Curi-Cancha with a few more photos from the car park, and with the best helado anywhere in Costa Rica; directly at the source - http://monteverdecheesefactory.com

 

Lesser Violetear

 

Stripe-tailed Hummingbird

 

Monteverde Cheese Factory

 

It was only one day that we have had this time for Monteverde, yet we have made the most of it! Thank You, Andy, for your time and your enthusiasm! It will stay with us for next few years, then we will come back for refill .

Edited December 3, 2018 by xelas

[Alexander33]

Continuing to love this comprehensive report on Costa Rica. You’ve built a valuable resource for us, @xelas.  

[PeterHG]

As usual, Zvezda's bird photos are excellent, but nothing beats the image of that cappuccino! 

[xelas]

23 minutes ago, PeterHG said:

but nothing beats the image of that cappuccino! 

 

Truth is getting a good cappuccino is not that easy in Costa Rica. But always easier then getting a good cup of tea, or glass of wine.

[Dave Williams]

Stunning photography, great narrative. Well done!

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Dave Williams said:

Stunning photography, great narrative. Well done!

 

Thanks Dave ! It means a lot, an incentive to post more trip reports in the future.

[xelas]

ZOO AVE

 

 

It is always a sad moment when I am about to post the last chapter of any trip report; by doing so I feel like closing the doors behind me. So it has taken a few days for me to be ready to post this one. The good thing is, there are new doors to be opened, and to explore what magics are hidden behind them.

 

 

Our last day we have spent in Alajuela. Having our flight late in the afternoon, same time as Michael and Andreas have had, we could easily stayed one more night in Monteverde, had a great breakfast, maybe even had the chance to find the elusive Bellbird. However it is our (=Zvezda's) protocol to stay the last night somewhere near the airport. It worked so far, so we didn't want to change this protocol. 

 

It was an interesting drive, to put it mildly, from Monteverde to Alajuela the day before. We could not leave The place, or Andy, and have said "Goodbye!" way too many times. Driving down the mountain is a slow affair, although the road on that side of Monteverde is much better (and they are improving it, and might even be paved till our next visit). But once on the PanAm Hwy 1, the sun went down, and the lights went on. Oh, I should say the light went on. Because only at that time, after 28 days driving the car, I have noticed that one headlight did not worked. And night time in Costa Rica is a dark as it can be. So I was driving slowly, trying to stay behind other vehicles, trucks mostly, and hoping that no cop will be out that late. We made it to Alajuela in decent time, but now I am even more assured that driving by night is not what tourists should do in Costa Rica.

 

Our third night in Alajuela and in Pura Vida Hotel, and our 3rd room. I have a feeling that Bernie the owner wanted to show us all that  he has, and yes, he has things to show, and to be proud of. As it was late, and we did not wanted to go out for the dinner, his lovely wife prepared us a very special dinner. Nhi's origins are from Asia, and yes she knew how to cook! If not for the garden, or for the rooms, one has to visit the Pura Vida Hotel for Bernie and Nhi.

 

Volcano Suite room ...

 

... and bathroom

 

Soup ... which one I have forgotten but it was delicious!

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

The last day I have plans to go out early and to find that birding place near La Paz waterfall which name changed into Chincona Restaurant. Two major power beyond my control have messed up my well prepared plan; the weather and the breakfast. The sky was grey, cloudy and it rained, not much but one never knows which way the Great gardener will turn the water faucet, and the breakfast ... well you look and you tell me if I could skip it !

 

 

 

 

After a lazy morning the sky cleared a bit, and we have decided to try our last chance to get some new birds, by visiting Zoo Ave - https://www.rescateanimalzooave.org/ . It is not only a small but nice zoo, it is foremost a refugee centre for local birds, and educational institution where kids come an learn about their biggest asset ... the nature and its wildlife.

 

 

[xelas]

The place is about 15 min by car from hotel. It has a parking lot, there is a restaurant that can be accessed from outside of the zoo or from the inside. It is relatively small zoo but has many birds and mammals on display. Yes, they are in cages. That is the zoo way, one can accept this or skip the place. But positive side of this zoo is that it also attracts wild animals; birds and monkeys and even lizards roam freely around the grounds of the zoo, searching for the food. Entry fee is not cheap but as part of it goes into conservation and rehabilitation, we have had no problems with paying it. Use of an umbrella is included in the price .

 

Prepared

 

Not a local macaw but colourful one - Blue-and Yellow Macaw

 

These two looked like a hybrid between different species

 

 

This one is local - Scarlet Macaw

 

Variegated Squirrel roams freely

 

and Green Iguana enjoying the day

Edited December 6, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

Visiting Zoo Ave on your first day is a good introduction into the wildlife that you might (or might not) see during the visit. And visiting it again on the last day is a chance to see up close those that you have missed.

 

 

Striped Owl (not seen)

 

Brown Pelican (seen)

 

Northern Tamandua (not seen)

 

 

It is difficult to understand if monkeys are visitors or locals; there were not kept behind bars but they surely looked very familiar with the location.

 

Capuchin Monkey

 

 

Howler Monkey

[xelas]

The bounty of trees and the availability of food attracts many birds, larger and smaller

 

 

 

 

Yellow-throated Toucan

 

Keel-billed Toucan

 

Collared Aracari

 

Helmeted Guineafowl

 

Rufous-naped Wren

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

Zoo Ave is indeed a great place to end our journey through the nature wonders of beautiful Costa Rica!

 

 

Great Currasow

 

Squirrel Cuckoo

 

Grey-headed Chachalaca

 

Gray-cowled Wood-Rail

 

 

Thank You all for your time, and for your likes and your comments. Pura Vida !

 

[Elsa Hoffmann]

Your report has left me green with envy! 
thanks for sharing it Alex - it was lovely to read and see the photos 

[TonyQ]

I have been catching up, not wanting to rush- enjoying the writing and photos.

I have just reached the point where Michael says goodbye.

The selection of birds has been mind blowing, such variety and so many of them so colourful. The stars must be the hummingbirds- incredible creatures.

Also great to see the mammals, reptiles and the very special frogs. Wonderful photos throughout, even in the rain.

I am pleased that Michel and Andreas had a great trip, and now I will carry on enjoying the work of @xelas and of course Zvezda.

[kitefarrago]

I am a birdwatcher, so Costa Rica has been on my radar as a destination for some time. I have enjoyed this trip report hugely, and all I can hope is that if and when I travel there I'll have something approaching the expert guidance that shone through this report.

 

Thanks very much for taking the time to telling us about, and letting us see, this country in such detail.

 

Andrea

[xelas]

@kitefarrago, not if, but when you will decide to visit Costa Rica, I will be more then happy to help you with your plans! Colombia and Ecuador are probably better destinations for birdwatching in that area, but they are not as easy for a D-I-Y birder as Costa Rica is.

[Zim Girl]

A great end to this trip report @xelas, your extra week produced many more wonderful birds and some cool mammals too.

I really enjoyed reading about the whole trip.