Costa Rica 2018: Birdin' in the Rain

[Chakra]

Thanks @xelas for reminding me of remoteness of Osa peninsula, the absolutely magnificent Corcovado national park , the potholes which can easily swallow my Tucson and of course the biodiversity. I hasten to add that since my trip to La Sirena the facilities have improved vastly. There are now proper sleeping arrangements and not sharing a tiny mattress with your partner, lying on the hard floor. The cooking facilities have also improved and while I had to wait in a queue for an electric kettle to get boiled water I believe there are now better arrangements. 

So if anyone is remotely thinking of visiting parque Corcovado then rest assured and get cracking. Of course if you are worried about your sleep getting interrupted by snoring of fellow campers ( practically guaranteed at La Sirena) then Bosque Del Cabo is an excellent albeit more expensive alternative, but I would return to La Sirena falling off to sleep listening to the rain drumming  and cooling the hot tin roof, lazing in the sweltering afternoon while the intoxicating scent of Ylang Ylang flower waft in and waking up to the call of the laughing Falcon. 

I'm  waiting for the first Costa Rican TR from La Amistad international peace park ! If I ever return to CR that'd be my destination.  Wilderness in abundance. 

[xelas]

Without any doubts, location is what makes Bosque del Cabo such a prime and sought after destination. Not only on Osa peninsula but almost in touching distance to the boundaries of Corcovado NP, it has a vast property between the cliff side of Golfo Dulce and the main road connecting Carate with Puerto Jimenez. 

 

Main area is a beautiful yet natural looking garden fringed with cliff-side cabins and with main building as its centrepiece. There is another, more secluded garden, with two more cabins about a 10 min walk away, and a not that short suspension bridge to cross. There is also an observation building on that second garden, a new addition set up after we were there in 2013.

 

Self-guided trails are criss-crossing the whole property. They should not be underestimated, as I have done so and as you can read about here:

 

None is really a "walk in the park" thing, a sturdy boots are needed, and long pants are wise to wear. They are fairly good signed, but if the visibility is coming down, one is better to be closer to the start or the end of each trail. Yet, they are always filled with local wildlife, and if lucky, one can cross its path with a resident puma.

 

This time first thing Zvezda has done was taking photos of all trail maps with her phone. That gave me the opportunity to share them with you. Here they are:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

The easiest to hike, and also the best for possible wildlife sightings, is Titi Trail. 

 

 

I think Michael did it each day, and I have bone it twice, from each side. When speaking of wildlife, this is of course no Africa, no Etosha or Kruger. This secondary forest is dense, and if the animal does not stay, or cross the trail, you might hear it but not see it. Already the short walk in the main road there will be birds and monkeys to greet you, and sometimes also other mammals.

 

Geoffrey’s Spider Monkey

 

White-nosed Coati

 

Muddy-nosed Pizote

 

 

Trail is clay soil, and when wet, slippery. As other trails also here you will have to do a couple of relatively steep sections; there are rough steps to help you negotiate the incline.

 

 

Agouti

 

Gray-chested Dove

 

 

If not on the trail, only the largest of animals can be seen, and already scarce light is even less once outside the trail.

 

Great Currasow

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by xelas

[xelas]

Yet, this is proper wilderness, with the planet most biodiverse place just steps away, and with animals that has no clue where the Corcovado National Park boundaries are. By walking slowly and quietly, and being lucky, you might have the same experience as I had. Let me tell you about it:

 

I've decided to try the Titi trail once again, on my own this time. I have started from the exit (#14 on the map) as going downhill on the trail looked easier then doing it uphill. Not even 5 minute on the trail, I've heard a low grumbling noise from the bushes in front of me. My first though was: "Oh boy, there is a puma for me!" With camera at ready I have moved slowly forward, low and peering hard into dense bushes. The the sounds grew up, and I have seen the source. Not a puma, but something even more dangerous for a human alone on its path: a grown-up Collared Peccary! A half-domesticated Charlie in Santa Elena Biological Reserve in Monteverde was the first and only peccary we have met up close and personal, and that was with a guide. Here, another peccary, and they always travel in packs. With my eyes firmly on the big guy I have started to retreat, to give him (??) enough space. Then from my right side others starting to emerge from the bushes! To my utter relief they were all smaller, juveniles mostly. Relieved, I've started to take photos. Which ended when more of them approached me from my back. Time to get out of their way, I've stepped out of the trail and a couple of youngsters have passed by me, not before sniffing my legs to see what kind of an animal I am. Must be a good thing this was already my third week in the rain forest, and I must have pleased them so no problems.

 

Start of an adventure

 

Big guy lurking in the shadows

 

Collared Peccary and why they have such a name

 

Not frightened at all ...

 

even curious.

 

This shot was done at 200 mm; and with a flash, as that one really came too close for my liking

Edited November 10, 2018 by xelas

[Atdahl]

Awesome Collared Peccary encounter!  The Titi trail always seems to deliver a few times each trip.

[xelas]

For those that are not keen on hiking sometimes slippery and muddy trails there is plenty to see also in both gardens. Big birds are present, like colourful toucans and birds of prey.

 

 

Fiery-billed Toucan

 

Yellow-throated Toucan

 

Roadside Hawk on top of the Happy Hour cottage

 

Juvenile Yellow-headed Caracara demanding to be feed

 

Parents were never far away

[xelas]

Even more colours can be found when looking for smaller subjects.

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

All four different New World monkeys are present on the grounds of Bosque del Cabo. Here are three of them.

 

Mantled Howler Monkey

 

 

 

White Faced Monkey

 

 

Geoffry's Spider Monkey

Edited November 10, 2018 by xelas

[Peter Connan]

Wonderful encounter with the Peccaries,and more great birds and butterflies!

[xelas]

And on the nicely manicured lawns both four-legged as two-legged animals are foraging for the food.

 

Agouti

 

 

White-nosed Coati mostly hangs in group ...

 

... but when a delicious snack is found, they prefer to be alone

 

 

Great Curassow male ...

 

... and female.

 

 

On the grounds of the second garden, more immersed into the forest, there are more wildlife to be seen, plus an observation house and an item from the history.

 

 

 

[xelas]

1 hour ago, Peter Connan said:

Wonderful encounter with the Peccaries,and more great birds and butterflies!

 

Wonderful if a bit scary! Being alone is never that reassuring.

[Atravelynn]

Chocolateria—I know who who was enthused to go there, my fellow chocolate fan, Andreas.

 

 

That red-eyed Tree Frog is especially stunning. Great Green Macaws—what a treat!  Butterflies are indeed your forte, Xelas!

You found the jewel of the cloud forest—the Resplendent Quetzal, and such good views. 

The food photos rival the wildlife!

 

Despite the rain, the birds showed up in all their brilliance.  The hummers were exceptional—even in flight or at least flapping their wings!  The “flying” armadillos were impressive.  Clever secret of hiding the feeders and spraying the flowers with sugar water for photographing the hummers on the flowers.

 

El Angelito, the Leucistic, even managed to hover in front of the blossoms.   I hope it is hovering still in a more secluded location.

 

“It was cold, it was wet, it was dark, and the bloody rain was incredibly loud - I just wanted it to stop, we all did. “  -Michael-ibk  

 

I remember a mysterious talent you had in Kafue where you looked at the clouds and willed them away.  Maybe you were able to use some of those powers on the Costa Rican downpour.

Oh my gosh, I wrote the above before I read about your other metal bending super powers.

 

That was one scary glowing red eyed peccary.

 

What a nice long trip, allowing time for lots of great photography between the raindrops!

 

 

Edited November 10, 2018 by Atravelynn

[Alexander33]

Ah, now we arrive at my wished-for home away from home:  Bosque del Cabo. I could return there again and again. 

 

Yes, you got the fiery-billed aracari!  I’m very glad about that   They have such a restricted range, and you don’t always find them. 

 

12 hours ago, xelas said:

All four different New World monkeys are present on the grounds of Bosque del Cabo. 

 

Just a slight clarification: Bosque del Cabo and the Osa Peninsula is one of the few places to find all four species of monkeys that occur in Costa Rica. (The New World , i.e. the Americas, has more than that). Regardless, you really got some really great photos there. 

 

I’m continuing to enjoy this report so much. Looking forward to more. 

[xelas]

Thanks for your intervention @Alexander33. Indeed that is a Fiery-billed Aracari (and not toucan). And yes, all four monkeys from Costa Rica can be seen on Osa, Keep an eye on this report in the future, there will be more interesting facts, photos ... and mistakes to be corrected!

[Kitsafari]

Much enjoying a place I am unlikely ever to go, or perhaps unlikely to go in the near future. stunning photos from all four of you, which don't really show how much you all must have struggled in the rain and gloomy weather. 

 

@michael-ibk hmmm first Doug's pith helmet, then the keybender..... you may want to do a Clark Kent while on safari trips.....

 

 

 

[xelas]

32 minutes ago, Kitsafari said:

Much enjoying a place I am unlikely ever to go, or perhaps unlikely to go in the near future

 

Never say never ... and there is always a helpful Safaritalker to show you around ...

[xelas]

If ever planning to stay at Bosque del cabo do splurge for the cliffside cabin. They came in different sizes but all have splendid view over the Pacific ocean, and have larger or smaller decks. Casa Bianca is about 2x the length of a cabin, and its deck is about 3-4x as large as those others.

 

Blue hour

 

Sunny day

 

Five-toed Human-Sloth

 

Even if not leaving the house/cabin, and staying at the deck for the most of the time (very unlikely but hey, we all have different travel styles), wildlife will come to entertain you. Mostly monkeys.

 

Spider monkey

 

 

The Squirrel Monkeys are among the smallest of the primates and are only found on the Pacific coasts of Costa Rica and Panama. Currently the Squirrel Monkey is vulnerable mainly due to deforestation and illegal pet trade. Costa Rica’s national parks where the monkeys are found is helping them bring their numbers back up. You can see these monkeys in Corcovado National Park, Osa Peninsula and Manuel Antonio National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This time of the year, the Gulf gets busier with visiting migrating Humpback Whales. The “inner sea” of Golfo Dulce, known as a tropical fjord, on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific Coast, is a critical habitat for Humpback Whales and is key to the species’ survival.

 

 

 

 

 

[Elsa Hoffmann]

One can't but feel you wish you were the one on that trip. The photos are beautiful and inviting. 

[xelas]

27 minutes ago, Elsa Hoffmann said:

One can't but feel you wish you were the one on that trip.

 

Elsa,, we can always exchange services !

[Alexander33]

Great shots of the squirrel monkeys!  And, wow, how I would love to be back on those decks overlooking the ocean, but with humpback whales in the waters joining the scarlet macaws flying overhead. What a treat. I need to go back for a visit during the whale migration. 

[Atravelynn]

Squirrel monkeys and whales, quite the combo!

[xelas]

Not only wildlife is excellent at Cabo Matapalo. There are also gorgeous beaches. Four of them, each has its own character, and they are among the best in Costa Rica, at least to my eyes. They all offers views over Golfo Dulce, and are fringed with green trees and palms. Loud screeching Scarlet Macaws feeds on the trees and huge Brown Pelicans on the sea. Not a place for easy swimming but few are such in Costa Rica. But for sure a great location for relaxing on the sun. The very narrow and bumpy track named Cabo Matapalo Road connects main Puerto Jimenez - Carate road with the tip of Cabo Matapalo where Playa Matapalo is. This is predominantly surfers beach, open to Pacific ocean, and with good size waves. Mostly locals are found surfing here. On the more calm, Golfo Dulce facing side of the promontory there are 3 more beaches: Playa Carbonara where swimming in little protected pools is possible when the tide is low, a tiny Backwash Bay, and the most beautiful of them, Playa Pan Dulce, another surfer's delight. This is where below photos were taken.

 

Playa Pan Dulce

 

Zvezda is aiming at something ...

 

Not this piece of drifted wood ...

 

... but a break of the wave!

 

Which always brings also more photogenic subjects

 

 

 

 

OK, this one is to add some colour to the bunch

[xelas]

While Scarlet Macaws were feasting at the back of the beach, the attention of our photographers were captured by a group of fishing Brown Pelicans. Out of 200+ photos taken by Zvezda only a small selection to show you their show.

 

One

 

Two

 

Three

 

And diving

 

 

 

Skimming on top of the waves

 

 

Into the blue sky

 

Edited November 12, 2018 by xelas

[PeterHG]

I've just caught up with your excellent trip report, @xelas and @michael-ibk and what a treat it is. Detailed descriptions of sites and accommodation and, wow, those photos. I am amazed yet again at the quality of the images, Quetzals, Hummers, Toucanets, Peccaries, Monkeys, they all shine! Even the extremely high iso shots have turned out really well. Thank you both for this wonderful story!

[Treepol]

@xelas and @michael-ibk what a wonderful time you had in Costa Rica. Lots of avian stars - hummers, toucans and quetzals. The Snowcap is a little beauty. A trip to the Osa Peninsula and a stay in those beautiful cliff top chalets is on my bucket list. 

 

The red-eyed peccary looks positively evil!