Zimbabwe Amazing Adventure September 2014

[graceland]

The dust and the relentless heat have on more than one occasion made me to succumb to a dip in the mighty Zambezi......a carefully selected sandy shoal, where it is possible to see logs and boulders for a goodly distance all around, each of us taking a turn high on the bank as look-out just to make sitting in the Zambezi as safe as it can be, elephants grazing on the islands, hippo's laughing and snorting in the deeper channels...maybe a little foolhardy, but memorable and happy times!

You are one adventure seeker; of all I see in Africa I am most terrified - and I mean TERRIFIED of crocs and hippos.

 

I am sure Craig would have found us a spot if I had really wanted; but even when fishing I refused to put my feet in the water on the side of the island we visited. I had my own "worm baiter" and "fish releaser" with me! He was also my good luck charm, Tisch (prob misspelled) but a lovely chap on Craig's team, who was so enthusiastic with my fishing ability, and my fear of crocs. I won't mention it here again but i caught the most.

 

Ok..Craig DID pull in a tiger fish; HUGE; but, hey he lives in the country!

 

Working on photos i promise. I need my other half in safari adventures to help me; and he is of course.....fishing. Don't know if anyone here is on FB but i did post quite a few for my family and nearby friends who will never have the chance as we all do to go to Africa so I post on FB for them. None of them are photogs, so they think they are actually good.

[graceland]

Arrival in Harare...Let's get to Mana!

 

While planning this escapade with Craig someone suggested I ask Craig to save Mana Pools for last as the "biggest" bang and Wow factor. I am actually happy we did not, as I fear I would expect WAY too much after our Matusadona and Hwange experiences. Also I feared I'd want to RACE through the experiences to finally get to Magical Mana.

 

We leave Harare via Craig's Cesna, and in less than two hours we are driving into Mana. As we were driving along the very dusty road caused by SO many vehicles leaving, I was giggling. "Here we come. There they go".

 

It was Monday afternoon, after "game count" and I had enough suggestions to AVOID the weekend. Since I book private; you can imagine I like VERY private. And it was for our five nights. Thankfully so.

 

I had so many nights wondering what was ahead. Was Mana all it was cracked up to be? Would we see anything on foot? Would we like our guide and even more so, would he like us? I mean, 12 nights!! What if this was a bust? How could I come back to SafariTalk and tell a story??? I'd be banned.

 

Thankfully, as soon as we met, I knew. And when Jud sat next to Craig in his plane I knew even more. All would be well. And I'd be avoided, but who cares. They'd have fun!

 

We drive into Trichilia camp; its not a short driveway and I am filled with anticipation. I am finally here! All the tr's, messages, words, thoughts, dreams, go out the window. The 30 somehours to get here are forgotten

 

The Adventure Begins

 

And with a bang.

 

Our greeting committee....before we get to the tent..

 

 

Curly and Big Vic are on OUR camp road... So relaxed, I can barely believe it. No one bothered to take a photo of my grin....but it was there. What a first day!

 

We still had not reached Trichilia - so close, yet I did not want to leave this special moment. We sit awhile admiring our guys.

 

[graceland]

Craig suggests we just take it all in; he has always had to go look for these guys; and here they are in our camp.

 

There is one celebrity missing, but Craig thinks he may be nearby so we just soak it in. It is a beautiful day (we were very lucky with weather - not TOO hot, and always a breeze) and hey, I have no plans....so lets spend some time here. It is something we've never experienced. Having ellies practically sitting in our rover. They either turn and leave/false charge/or ignore us totally.

 

No, I've never seen this....but here he was also in our camp. I thought to myself, Disney set this up.

But it was amazing to be in the presence of these gentle giants. ON OUR FIRST 30 MINUTES IN MANA!

 

I am enthralled. Never have I seen so many ellies in a camp. Relaxed and owning it.

 

 

 

 

[Marks]

Couldn't ask for a better welcoming committee! The sepia tones work really well for them, too.

[graceland]

After watching the infamous Boswell with his branch eating escapades, we head on to the campsite, passing a few more ellies; with the babies. Who can resist an ellie baby?

 

I could not believe how many elephants we had seen just driving the dirt road into Trichilia camp, which was brilliant. The view, the location, the privacy was in my mind perfection. I've not seen other camps in Mana - later we would drive to Ilila; however I can highly recommend this beautiful site.

 

Some shots of our view and our delightful tent - all to ourselves. Heaven. Craig's staff, five amazing young men set up their tents and kitchen away from us; but within shouting distance, and Craig's, dome tent and shower/etc behind us in the trees; yet in viewing distance...I could have stayed here forever. However I found myself saying that about everywhere we stayed!

 

I realize this pics are a bit large. As many of you know I am not much of a post processor; I may crop, add sepia or black and white but thats' it. Esp. since I am rushing to get this out before our weekends are full of visitors (once you live on water, watch out)

Suggestions for changing them up appreciated, size wise. I don't have time nor talent for a program to enhance/change/etc.

 

After this first day, I am just going to give highlights, not an "hr by hr" account,since I have posted the video and given out some details in the beginning of this report.

I know many have been to Mana, but thought you'd enjoy the "first timers" mouth dropping experience. It just got better and better.

Lucky ones for sure.

 

 

[graceland]

After watching the infamous Boswell with his branch eating escapades, we head on to the campsite, passing a few more ellies; with the babies. Who can resist an ellie baby?

 

I could not believe how many elephants we had seen just driving the dirt road into Trichilia camp, which was brilliant. The view, the location, the privacy was in my mind perfection. I've not seen other camps in Mana - later we would drive to Ilila; however I can highly recommend this beautiful site.

 

Some shots of our view and our delightful tent - all to ourselves. Heaven. Craig's staff, five amazing young men set up their tents and kitchen away from us; but within shouting distance, and Craig's, dome tent and shower/etc behind us in the trees; yet in viewing distance...I could have stayed here forever. However I found myself saying that about everywhere we stayed!

 

I realize this pics are a bit large. As many of you know I am not much of a post processor; I may crop, add sepia or black and white but thats' it. Esp. since I am rushing to get this out before our weekends are full of visitors (once you live on water, watch out)

Suggestions for changing them up appreciated, size wise. I don't have time nor talent for a program to enhance/change/etc.

 

After this first day, I am just going to give highlights, not an "hr by hr" account,since I have posted the video and given out some details in the beginning of this report.

I know many have been to Mana, but thought you'd enjoy the "first timers" mouth dropping experience. It just got better and better.

Lucky ones for sure.

 

 

[michael-ibk]

What a great intoduction to Mana Pools, with the Ele celebrities putting on a show for you!

[Whyone?]

You convey the excitement of arriving at Mana for the first time really well @@graceland. Something that can only be done once in a lifetime.

 

Trichilia is a beautiful camp and relatively recent - I believe Parks set up this location after granting planning permission for the Vine municipality.... previously the location of a similarly low key temporary set-up to Trichilia.

 

I dint know Boswell was collared? When did that happen?!

[graceland]

On 10/6/2014 at 2:55 PM, Whyone? said:

You convey the excitement of arriving at Mana for the first time really well @@graceland. Something that can only be done once in a lifetime.

 

Trichilia is a beautiful camp and relatively recent - I believe Parks set up this location after granting planning permission for the Vine municipality.... previously the location of a similarly low key temporary set-up to Trichilia.

 

I dint know Boswell was collared? When did that happen?!

Hi Whyone, Sage of October Suicide Month in Mana.....

 

I believe it was this past spring maybe? I know Craig helped in the collaring (and re-collaring as it grew too tight) and there was a video of it..perhaps on Friends of MP or you tube? I think they want to keep him in Mana, from what I understand, as he is so valuable and KNOWN to everyone; and "some" powers decided to keep track of him. Not sure why. I imagine .... knows the story and upon his return from Kenya would explain.

 

It could NOT have been a better scenario....Seeing all the cars leaving Mana - and Craig driving right down the dirt road with the Boys of Mana. All for us.

 

I knew then we did not go wrong in our decisions

[graceland]

As Craig's team set up their camp and began lunch preparation we took a walk along the Zambezi - which looked nothing as I remember it from years ago on a Vic Falls trip when we stayed out at River Lodge on the River. It was glorious.

 

 

We found elies making their own mud bath, which was quite interesting to watch.

[SafariChick]

Ah, love those ellies in the last post! They look happy!

[graceland]

Ah, love those ellies in the last post! They look happy!

@@SafariChick, a little to wet the appetite for your Zam trip to come.!

 

As a converted walker amongst the wildlife, I can only say how much a safari experience is enhanced when able to SIT - for as long or as little as one wants, and really observe the wildlife's behavior. Rather than just riding up in a vehicle, hoping "something" might occur, when usually its a photo op (which is not a bad thing) but then off you go.

 

Being with Craig on this journey gave us the opportunity to really stop, be in the moments, and spend inordinate amounts of time in observation. I did not take as many pics as I should have because I did not want my eye in a viewfinder; I wanted to actually watch it all. Filming would probably been best, but I kept hitting the wrong button (nothing unusual here!) so practice that part; as I did NOT!

 

To watch how the elies use their trunks and feet is totally amazing. I NEVER knew this talent from only seeing them eating leaves off of branches. I just wish I had filmed the sequences of using those large feet to separate the good grass and toss the bad grass with their trunks, or how they use the trunk as a dog would use its nose to find the most delicate pod morsel to eat. Or as above, the elie constructed the mud bath himself; the sand was not wet to begin with. He did it all with the trunk and feet. Most talented! And don't get me started on how they wash themselves in the river. The water was splashing over on us. Just lovely.

 

Elies have created the world of "spa" safari.

I can't wait for you to go as well!

[Whyone?]

 

Ah, love those ellies in the last post! They look happy!

.....I can only say how much a safari experience is enhanced when able to SIT - for as long or as little as one wants, and really observe the wildlife's behavior. Rather than just riding up in a vehicle, hoping "something" might occur, when usually its a photo op (which is not a bad thing) but then off you go.....

 

That's it! That's it exactly @@graceland!

 

That is why I love going to Mana with friends - you did essentially the same thing, with a private safari - the freedom to wander off, always well away from the road so there is little chance of seeing anyone else, choose a shady spot and just sit, sometimes for hours on end, just watching the animals interact, no pressure to move on / get back for breakfast-lunch-dinner. Something which is neigh-on impossible at most safari destinations I imagine?

Edited October 6, 2014 by Whyone?

[graceland]

]Mana Pools was sensory overload...in a good way. We had never been to a destination where within one area you'd see not only impala, kudus, zebra ( we did not see any giraffe) big game, little game. Always elephants!

 

In the vehicle I was constantly turning my head as they were all just sharing the earth together. But the best times were on foot. We took off one afternoon and found some ellies and decided to try to get close. One strayed away so we followed.

 

Little did we know we'd come upon a scene forever etched in my mind. A pride of lions - half sleeping; half awake. it was late afternoon and they were probably looking for dinner. Between the ellies we saw and as we sat a dozen impala frolicking they'd have their choice.

 

We decided to hide behind a termite mound and watch this play out. After a while no one moved, so we inched closer and closer, finally on our haunches trying to sit in front of the mound. I was a bit - more than a bit - I was downright scared out of my wits - there was no brush to hide in; there was only an open space between us and the lions. But Craig seemed confident and I knew he'd not put us in danger - after observing them from behind the mound for at least 30 min.

 

So we proceed. He has warned us to not move; be perfectly still. Hard to be still and move at the same time but I held my breath and proceeded to follow him.

I decided it was meant to be and that is one reason I was on this journey; no way I'd be the one to say...Naw lets go back to camp. No Way.

 

I haven't figured out how to comment on these photos individually, since I am just attaching; but you can see the elie we were following, then the lions. They were really looking our way; and this is the time when my contact lens POPPED out, so for me a good thing; I had no idea they were staring at us.

 

We thought for sure between the elie and impala one or more would see the opportunity but they were lazy lions that afternoon.

 

In the last pics we took as we walked away - and they remained lying still (!) you can see the cloth Craig gave me-- as I was covered while sitting in bees! I threw it over my body as there were 25 or more buzzing constantly and I hugged my knees to keep from swiping - and aggravating the pride!

Yes, this is an encounter I will remember always. Craig is so calm and assuring; after this i just trusted him impeccibly.

I was more terrified of walking back in the near dark as we sat with the lions for over two hours. It was not a short walk AND WE CAME ACROSS HIPPOS FEEDING. OMG, I was terrified. But we gave a wide berth; and made it to camp, with me never more happier than ever to see lanterns lit in camp! Oh jump for joy!

 

What an afternoon. And the best gin and tonic in the world.

Only the beginning.

[graceland]

I left out the paw; I love lions' paws, especially when not on me....

 

 

[graceland]

 

 

Ah, love those ellies in the last post! They look happy!

.....I can only say how much a safari experience is enhanced when able to SIT - for as long or as little as one wants, and really observe the wildlife's behavior. Rather than just riding up in a vehicle, hoping "something" might occur, when usually its a photo op (which is not a bad thing) but then off you go.....

 

That's it! That's it exactly @@graceland!

 

That is why I love going to Mana with friends - you did essentially the same thing, with a private safari - the freedom to wander off, always well away from the road so there is little chance of seeing anyone else, choose a shady spot and just sit, sometimes for hours on end, just watching the animals interact, no pressure to move on / get back for breakfast-lunch-dinner. Something which is neigh-on impossible at most safari destinations I imagine?

 

I'd go with friends, @whyanyone? (certainly be more affordable) but my friends are chickens. Afraid of anything new and different.

 

Truly are.

[ld1]

@@graceland what a captivating encounter with the lions. They say you never forget your first kiss and I know I'll never forget my first Safari, but I'm sure both of us will never forget our first visit to Mana either.

[graceland]

@@graceland what a captivating encounter with the lions. They say you never forget your first kiss and I know I'll never forget my first Safari, but I'm sure both of us will never forget our first visit to Mana either.

Thank you @@ld1 - I don't forget any of my (so far) only 5 safaris; and there are always moments that outshine others. This was a huge No. one, but I have to say we had many more encounters in the upcoming 10 days. I only just relived it through my pics - but I never will forget those damn bees. I was bitten by tsetes and those bees were way more aggravating. Plus, Craig constantly whispering, "Stay Still!" I did not want to be the one who caused major fatalities!

 

Looking forward to hearing more of your Mana encounters. You must have been a few weeks before?

 

I am just throwing this out here on ST ; as I realized if not now, it won't happen. Kind of fun to not let go of the memories just yet -as well. With the move upon our return, I'd forgotten I'd even been!

[Whyone?]

Thanks for the latest instalment @@graceland.

 

You won't see giraffe at Mana because for reasons never adequately explained to me, they aren't there. I would have thought the floodplain would suit them very well indeed?

 

Great account of your lion encounter. Pure Mana. There can't be many places you can do this in relative safely and within Park rules. I am interested that Craig -- who knows infinitely more about these matters than I - chose to initially view from cover (termite mound). We tend to work on the 'make sure they have seen us at a distance and see how they react before moving close' principle. But then we don't have a gun so 'plan b' is pretty sketchy.

Edited October 7, 2014 by Whyone?

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Great to read about that exciting encounter - and to see how close you are to those lions. I agree that doing a trip report helps to hang on to the memories.

[Morkel Erasmus]

@@graceland I'm glad I got on board for this TR.

Riveting lion sighting - can't beat the Mana experience. Trichilia is an awesome part of the park, also had great encounters with Big Vic and Fred Astaire as well as Boswell (on a separate occasion) there in early September.

 

Looking forward to the rest!

[graceland]

Thanks for the latest instalment @@graceland.

 

You won't see giraffe at Mana because for reasons never adequately explained to me, they aren't there. I would have thought the floodplain would suit them very well indeed?

 

Great account of your lion encounter. Pure Mana. There can't be many places you can do this in relative safely and within Park rules. I am interested that Craig -- who knows infinitely more about these matters than I - chose to initially view from cover (termite mound). We tend to work on the 'make sure they have seen us at a distance and see how they react before moving close' principle. But then we don't have a gun so 'plan b' is pretty sketchy.

@@Whyone?, being this was only our second day with Craig and most interactions wtih elies, I am sure something was forming in his head and no time to discuss with us. We initially were trying to observe the straying elie- from the group pic - and walking away. That is when Craig surprisingly saw the lions and had us stand behind the mound (I am guessing - to make a plan - to observe - do all those things guides do in split seconds) Being "quiet" I did not dare ask why we were doing what we were. He was whispering and gesturing at the same time; and I wasn't about to question anything. As I mentioned we stayed close to the mound as his plan formed. After what seemed maybe 20-30 minutes we hunched down, walked, stopped, watched,etc. until he felt we could sit and watch.

 

Craig's eyes were always on those lions gathering his "info" and I am sure they were relaxed enough for us to make small movements or we'd retreated. We did not have enough distance to see how they would react. We stumbled upon them while following the elies. Very exciting - and time stood still. I believe he was very cautious - throughout our safari; as many times I'd hear him say, "we are leaving "whomever" alone; they are not comfortable with us here. S0. as you say there are things guides know over their 20 years of experience that we certainly cannot second guess. Craig was safety conscious bar none. More for the wildlife than anything.

 

As far as giraffe, he did mention what they liked to eat was not readily available in Mana. Maybe the elies eat it all!

 

A great beginning to Mana for sure.

[graceland]

@@graceland I'm glad I got on board for this TR.

Riveting lion sighting - can't beat the Mana experience. Trichilia is an awesome part of the park, also had great encounters with Big Vic and Fred Astaire as well as Boswell (on a separate occasion) there in early September.

 

Looking forward to the rest!

Thanks Morkel, I follow you around on FB so I've seen some of your Mana photos as well. Thank you for reading my report.

 

One never knows if anyone is really interested or not, and since I am not a pro (or even interested amateur) photog, I know they aren't clicking on to see outstanding shots! They get what I take; but its' part of my experience so I put them out there knowing by now my fav. St'rs don't mind.

 

My husband declares one day we are taking a pro with us to do all the photography. Neither one of us is comfortable with equipment. (we actually bicker over who is going to take the pic..ending up missing the shot!)

 

We certainly had an incredible, wildlife filled safari with Craig.

 

Outstanding it was.

[Whyone?]

 

Thanks for the latest instalment @@graceland.

 

You won't see giraffe at Mana because for reasons never adequately explained to me, they aren't there. I would have thought the floodplain would suit them very well indeed?

 

Great account of your lion encounter. Pure Mana. There can't be many places you can do this in relative safely and within Park rules. I am interested that Craig -- who knows infinitely more about these matters than I - chose to initially view from cover (termite mound). We tend to work on the 'make sure they have seen us at a distance and see how they react before moving close' principle. But then we don't have a gun so 'plan b' is pretty sketchy.

@@Whyone?, being this was only our second day with Craig and most interactions wtih elies, I am sure something was forming in his head and no time to discuss with us. We initially were trying to observe the straying elie- from the group pic - and walking away. That is when Craig surprisingly saw the lions and had us stand behind the mound (I am guessing - to make a plan - to observe - do all those things guides do in split seconds) Being "quiet" I did not dare ask why we were doing what we were. He was whispering and gesturing at the same time; and I wasn't about to question anything. As I mentioned we stayed close to the mound as his plan formed. After what seemed maybe 20-30 minutes we hunched down, walked, stopped, watched,etc. until he felt we could sit and watch.

 

Craig's eyes were always on those lions gathering his "info" and I am sure they were relaxed enough for us to make small movements or we'd retreated. We did not have enough distance to see how they would react. We stumbled upon them while following the elies. Very exciting - and time stood still. I believe he was very cautious - throughout our safari; as many times I'd hear him say, "we are leaving "whomever" alone; they are not comfortable with us here. S0. as you say there are things guides know over their 20 years of experience that we certainly cannot second guess. Craig was safety conscious bar none. More for the wildlife than anything.

 

As far as giraffe, he did mention what they liked to eat was not readily available in Mana. Maybe the elies eat it all!

 

A great beginning to Mana for sure.

 

Thanks for the comments @@graceland - and please don't think for a moment that I was having the temerity to question Craig's approach / actions - far from it, just curious and interested.

 

Giraffe do browse Faidherbia albida very happy in other areas, so I wonder what else they like to eat that isn't easily available to them in the Mana area?

Edited October 7, 2014 by Whyone?

[graceland]

 

 

Thanks for the latest instalment @@graceland.

 

You won't see giraffe at Mana because for reasons never adequately explained to me, they aren't there. I would have thought the floodplain would suit them very well indeed?

 

Great account of your lion encounter. Pure Mana. There can't be many places you can do this in relative safely and within Park rules. I am interested that Craig -- who knows infinitely more about these matters than I - chose to initially view from cover (termite mound). We tend to work on the 'make sure they have seen us at a distance and see how they react before moving close' principle. But then we don't have a gun so 'plan b' is pretty sketchy.

@@Whyone?, being this was only our second day with Craig and most interactions wtih elies, I am sure something was forming in his head and no time to discuss with us. We initially were trying to observe the straying elie- from the group pic - and walking away. That is when Craig surprisingly saw the lions and had us stand behind the mound (I am guessing - to make a plan - to observe - do all those things guides do in split seconds) Being "quiet" I did not dare ask why we were doing what we were. He was whispering and gesturing at the same time; and I wasn't about to question anything. As I mentioned we stayed close to the mound as his plan formed. After what seemed maybe 20-30 minutes we hunched down, walked, stopped, watched,etc. until he felt we could sit and watch.

 

Craig's eyes were always on those lions gathering his "info" and I am sure they were relaxed enough for us to make small movements or we'd retreated. We did not have enough distance to see how they would react. We stumbled upon them while following the elies. Very exciting - and time stood still. I believe he was very cautious - throughout our safari; as many times I'd hear him say, "we are leaving "whomever" alone; they are not comfortable with us here. S0. as you say there are things guides know over their 20 years of experience that we certainly cannot second guess. Craig was safety conscious bar none. More for the wildlife than anything.

 

As far as giraffe, he did mention what they liked to eat was not readily available in Mana. Maybe the elies eat it all!

 

A great beginning to Mana for sure.

 

Thanks for the comments @@graceland - and please don't think for a moment that I was having the temerity to question Craig's approach / actions - far from it, just curious and interested.

 

Giraffe do browse Faidherbia albida very happy in other areas, so I wonder what else they like to eat that isn't easily available to them in the Mana area?

 

@@Whyone?, First I had to look up "temerity"; and no I did not think it all all; I knew you were curious. I just put the whole "experience" from first glimpse to leaving the lions here just in case anyone wondered how a guide did go about deciding just how close he could safely bring his clients.

 

Also with only two, it is much easier for him to "control" issues and guests, than say a group of 4 or so. We were squeezed so close together; I doubt a group would work in the situation!

 

I also assumed that is how you came to name yourself ("whyone?") as you do ask questions, which are most appreciated. As today for instance, I discovered a new word!

 

Craig did tell me what the giraffes missed in Mana, but to tell the truth I have forgotten. One reason I am getting this report down, as I have a tendency to forget some details of anything these days! (I don't take notes; and I don't take many photos)

 

I'd rather just" be there".

 

Remembering a week is one thing; remembering two -

The first two days are now a haze. I don't even remember the flight over! (that is probably a good thing; its' rather long)

 

Thankfully, I have dates on my photos.

 

Appreciate your reading; encourages me to continue