Zimbabwe Amazing Adventure September 2014

[graceland]

At the beginning of my TR I posted a pic of the largest and perhaps one of the oldest Baobab trees in Mana Craig had ever seen.

 

 

We pass it on the way to the airstrip to fly to Lake Kariba where we will be staying three (3) nights at Rhino Camp. In the beginning of this itinerary Craig had us at Changa Camp for 2, and Rhino for only one and I was thrilled when we wrote and said all three were at Rhino.

 

Flying into Kariba

 

 

I remember during the process there were some posts on the lions having left the camps; but we had our lucky four leaf clover along...and fate shined upon us.

 

Arriving at Kariba I was a bit stunned back into civilization (there was an actual facility, not a strip) and we had to be checked through security - somewhat

"Do you have anything in your pockets?" No, ma'm. Thank you...go ahead. Would I tell her I actually had ginger tablets...no. SO yes I lied.

Craig had it a bit tougher; permits for the gun, checking the bullets, all sorts of things. It was nice that they knew him so we were in and out in 5 min.

 

Kariba felt very tropical as opposed to Mana Pools ~ Flowers and Palm trees - Nice Change

 

 

 

 

Flying over I saw crocodile farms. Oh lord what if they escaped! I was told the big designer bag companies contract with them..You know, Gucci, YSL, all those 4-5 K. purses. That's where they come from, ladies.

 

So I am speeding through this now...I know there are quite a few TR's from Zim and Zam and everyone is awaiting SD and GW..

 

Long story,shortish:

 

Fortunately for us Jenny at Rhino was hosting Rae Koke, Researcher for Lion Alert (dot org - read it) for the Matusadona Lion Project.

 

Good for us.....she was following several prides with her antennas and GPS between Changa and Rhino; so she offered to go out with us after lunch. Wonderful young lady, so passionate about her lions;I really admired her. You should read her blog; her love really shows through along with her commitment.

 

 

She was tracking several lions that HAD MOVED FROM CHANGA TWO DAYS PREVIOUSLY!!

 

Hallelujah, The god of all things CATS was shining down on us. (I'm sure Changa is delightful, but I wanted to see some interaction if possible; missing it in Mana.)

 

The two lions she had found the earlier dates were named "Toulouse" and "Matusadona"; she thought they had mated last spring, something may have happened...and perhaps were trying again...so off we go, antenna in her truck and we follow in jeep.

She was also on the hunt for a lioness she named "Elizabeth" but she was quite elusive.

 

We catch up, and there they are lounging peacefully, not aware we are (silenty) screaming for joy. Well I was. Being a Leo, I am most attracted to cats and one never knows after a good sleep what "bad" they might get into. Secretly hoping.

 

 

Then there are two

 

 

 

And Toulouse saunters off, disinterested in all of us

 

 

We continue to coordinate with Rae daily on finding the lions which was great fun and had a few success.

 

Meanwhile there were other wild life of interest at Rhino Camp (which we truly loved - very special- Jenny is awesome as is her entire camp staff)

 

Many elies in camp and along the lake -

 

 

And of course my nemisis

 

 

Every day at Rhino Camp brought us a few Surprises, especially on walks.

Edited October 10, 2014 by graceland

[Kitsafari]

@@graceland so enjoying your Zim adventures! can't wait for the next instalment. I love that pix of the hippo peeping at you out of the water.

[Soukous]

I can write up the next 3 camps in one sentence.

 

Really I can.

 

 

Don't you dare!

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Don't rush it - we want to read your report!

[graceland]

Thanks all; I have a time limit on myself, so just giving special moments right now. Craig - who took awesome pics - has promised to email me some of the ones I missed, as I was not as quick as he can be. .SO I can always add later.

 

I am leaving Monday for two weeks, and I'd like to finish what I can, but appreciate youall wanting more.

 

Gives me much needed encouragement!

[michael-ibk]

You know we all love details ... So please don't rush.

 

I didn't know you never return .... Or rather your husband. I do understand that in a way .... The very special magic of seeing a wonderful place for the very first time can never be repeated ... And there are so many interesting locations to go to. But I just could not do this - just the thought of never returning to the Pantanal, the Okavango Delta or the Aberdares would downright depress me.

[graceland]

I had forgotten in my rush to get youall to the lions to impress how much we liked Rhino Camp. Everyone said is was "rustic' and Jenny is a fantastic host; I was thinking, "oh dear, its' seen its' day"

 

Well, I need to say it is run so lovingly and smoothly; her staff just appear and do what they are to do. The rooms are awesome - huts open to the views and elephants wandering in and out all day. And so clean; I never saw whomever came in and out, but they sure did...twice a day!

 

The first afternoon (and this is coming from a mobile where we just walked in and out of our tent at will) the entire front walkway had been taken over by several large elephants. We were headed to meet Craig and I knew he was already up at the lounge area.

 

What to do? I saw a path meandering another way and sort of thought I'd take it, but no...I was not sure of this camp just yet. So I called to Jud and we stood on our steps watching the elies; and here comes George, the on the camp guide and all round good fellow for Rhino, coming for us with his trusty rifle slung over his shoulder; a big smile, saying "Welcome Gracie! What a comittee to greet you,eh? "

 

I love people who love their elies

 

 

From inside our lovely hut,

 

 

During tea we met some other guests newly arrived. Two ladies from The Hide whom Craig knew; then a couple arrived shortly thereafter - very beautiful couple; they could have been on a magazine cover somewhere! Turns out they were ambassadors to Zimbabwe from their two countries in South American where they resided when not in Harare.

 

Great conversation with four other wildlife lovers and travelers made the stay even more enriching. One of the ambassadors was telling me we must get to the Pantanal, so I am thoroughly reading @@TonyQ 's latest report! An invitation to the embassy was extended but I felt we should not go in our really dingy safariwear. Maybe another time!

 

Between game drives and walks, Matusadona was rich with birds and elies and lions and hippos of course.

 

The scenery on and around the lake was absolutely stunning; the weather was perfect and once again I never want to leave.

 

 

 

On a walk with Craig in the cool morning, we find a RHINO track. We are all so excited! Especially Craig. He is like a kid; says we have to follow this track (of course!) as it seemed fresh that am; and by gumit we are going.

 

 

You may note Craig is barefoot. He prefers that mode as not as much noise underfoot is made. I am happy my luggage was getting to the 8kg max quickly so I chose lighweight sneakers as opposed to hiking boots and I was pretty silent myself!

 

We had walked through the mopane down to a sand river bed where we saw the track so we kept walking. and walking. Various prints, but we lose the rhino! Well a good effort, and we continue. Kind of quiet as we thought for sure we were on it...

 

Suddenly Craig puts his hand up. We stop, forgetting though we lost the Rhino we are still out in the bush and anything could happen.

 

Craig whispers, "LEOPARD". Knowing me by the time I follow his hand they'd be gone! But no they are not looking our way, instead the TWO are happily frolicking with one another on a large set of boulders by the sand bed.

OMG they did not see us; so quietly we squat....then sit. Still no flicker. Craig pulls out his camera; and I follow. I dont want to chase them away with any movement.

 

The sun is in my eyes; I cannot see when I look in my viewfinder, but I click anyway.

 

 

(If you go to the video at the begining - around 1:59; you wil see Craig's shots. Naturally sun did not bother him....grrrrr.)

 

However it was amazing to watch through binos. They played and ran up and down the tree. Its on the vid. Thank goodness.

 

We cannot believe our luck....after the disappointment with the Rhino; we find two leopards who ignore us. Heaven!

 

Finally they scoot away; Craig says, We are very lucky. I begin to think he is a snake charmer. That's a good thing; wherever he is, something appears!

 

That afternoon we follow Rae out once again looking for her "research". It takes a bit longer than the day before, but soon we see something (well Craig does - I'm blind) and a big smile appears...

 

 

As he begins his jaunt across the grasses we follow, wondering what he is up to...Rae is still looking for "Elizabeth" the lioness she cannot seem to locate, and perhaps he will lead us to her.

 

If he is there the other must be as well so we slowly drive on....and see Rae's truck....with the onlooker

 

 

 

The two, Toulouse and Matusadona, join up strolling across the plain;

 

Finding a creek....

 

 

 

And then, a leap,

 

 

(the complete sequence is also on Craig's vid at the beginning)

 

We could not cross the creek so off he went; it was getting darker and we had to return; but since I was told there were "no lions", it was thrilling to be so close and have them to ourselves; no other vehicles pushing us out for a look.

 

 

 

 

 

[graceland]

Oh dear, I need a moderator.....How I managed to do this I've no idea...

 

HELP @ Game Warden

 

SORRY

 

Still learning after all these years.

If you see a double post, can you click edit on the second one and delete?

[graceland]

You know we all love details ... So please don't rush.

 

I didn't know you never return .... Or rather your husband. I do understand that in a way .... The very special magic of seeing a wonderful place for the very first time can never be repeated ... And there are so many interesting locations to go to. But I just could not do this - just the thought of never returning to the Pantanal, the Okavango Delta or the Aberdares would downright depress me.

@michael-bik,

 

I am with you; I could return to every place I've been in Africa (though I'd change lodges in Sabi Sands area)

 

However Jud looks at travel differently, though we've returned over and over on sailing trips through Caribbean,Bermuda, Bahamas; to him that was all about the process of sailing, not the actual location!

 

However, nothing is set in stone at this house and just last night he was reading MY trip report....yes this very one on which he accompanied me; saying I had forgotten so much of this ( well we did rush home and move!) Happy you put it done in print so I could remember it!

 

And out of his mouth - " You know I'd go back!" I needed to record that one!

 

So I am thinking 2015 will take us back. Just need to figure out where. After I get through with this!

[graceland]

Ignoring post #111, I'll end our time at Rhino Camp with an evening on Lake Kariba

 

 

 

We took George and the Girls from The Hide along, as we were going to stop and walk for a bit....George had a premonition that the lions may have been heading in that direction. He is an amazing guide and I'd love to go out on a walk with him. His personality and ability to show me where "things" hide were amazing. He was fun and always smiling.

 

 

There were quite a few birds; I especially liked this one, a kingfisher.

 

 

 

We jump off the boat and walk (in flipflops no less) through scrub...George goes ahead, rounds a corner, and gives us the high sign.

 

In the thicket -

 

 

The others lying close by....we don't try to get closer as there are 6 of us. Just peeking

 

Nice to say goodbye to the Rhino Camp Lions....

 

and of course, a beautiful sunset on Lake Kariba

 

 

 

And a big smile for a great time in Matusadona

 

 

 

 

ON to HWANGE!

 

 

 

 

 

[SafariChick]

Loving this report! Want to get to Zim more and more with each report I read of it! SO jealous of the two leopards - what a dream! And all the ellies are wonderful to see. Gorgeous sunset on Lake Kariba! And I am jealous of how you put the titles on to the photos from iphoto and then you upload them straight to here - so you don't have to put them on Flickr or something first? I'd like to figure out how to do that! Look forward to more!

Edited October 11, 2014 by SafariChick

[graceland]

Oh dear, I need a moderator.....How I managed to do this I've no idea...

 

HELP @ Game Warden

OR PERHAPS @@Game Warden WITH NO SPACE WOULD HELP!!

 

SORRY

 

Still learning after all these years.

If you see a double post, can you click edit on the second one and delete?

[graceland]

Loving this report! Want to get to Zim more and more with each report I read of it! SO jealous of the two leopards - what a dream! And all the ellies are wonderful to see. Gorgeous sunset on Lake Kariba! And I am jealous of how you put the titles on to the photos from iphoto and then you upload them straight to here - so you don't have to put them on Flickr or something first? I'd like to figure out how to do that! Look forward to more!

THANK you @@SafariChick.....I am trying to get "portions" of the report on ST as I wil not be here the next two wks. and of couse there must be time for SD and GW......

 

I was so frustrated with labeling pics; I found out (since I download to" I photo.."...and have NO desire to go to Photoshop and all those fancy places)....If you move your pic to "preview": there is an option to "annotate"....and that is how you add the captions. easy peasy. For one like me...who does not want to spend hours post processing. I'd never get around to it.

 

Thank you for reading my experience. I debated whether or nor to even post one as there are so many on Zim. It was so "Beyond my Expectations", I went ahead.

 

And I do appreciate anyone who would take the time to read my ramblings.

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Exciting to see leopards when out walking, always wonderful to see elephants - and so many lions when there are not supposed to be any.

 

Doing your trip report may persuade Jud to break his rule and return (so you must show us the detail to convince him )

[Soukous]

Wow! you certainly had some amazing sightings in Matusadona. Lions and leopards - very exceptional. and 8kg of luggage? seriously? My camera gear weighs twice that.

[graceland]

Wow! you certainly had some amazing sightings in Matusadona. Lions and leopards - very exceptional. and 8kg of luggage? seriously? My camera gear weighs twice that.

@@Soukous, it is pretty obvious I do not carry "camera gear"!

 

I post pics to help the story line but they are not from a serious camera or photographer ( and a blurry eye pattern persists!) By now everyone is aware. so I dont even try to compete in the photo section!

 

SAA carryon - 8kg and we do it. But you get 2 each. Gifts take up one; rolled up safari clothes the other. Pretty easy in warm season!

 

And thanks for following along; it was chock full, as Hwange is to come. A lucky two weeks for us.

[Marks]

 

Thank you for reading my experience. I debated whether or nor to even post one as there are so many on Zim. It was so "Beyond my Expectations", I went ahead.

 

 

I'm so glad you did! This is such a fun thread full of great sightings.

[graceland]

Don't spend time in Hwange; way too large and too many vehicles...you won't see much..

 

Excerpt from a private message on Another (now unreliable!) forum

 

HWANGE: Elephants, Sable, Wild Dog, Roan, Giraffe, Lions, Buffalos, Wildebeast, the list goes on.

One self driver in the camp nearest ours at Camp Hwange

 

I admit after reading a few thoughts on Hwange that we may not be very succesfull with this portion of the trip and I was skeptical enough to contact Craig and ask him if we were wasting time and money going to Hwange ; perhaps we should change course. His reply was to ignore it all. We were going at a perfect time, and not to worry....

 

SO I gave up my "inherent OCD tendencies" BEFORE a safari....it melts away once we land thank goodness.

 

What will be.

 

Arriving at Somalisa Acacia,it was so dry and dusty all I wanted was a shower. Somalisa Main and Somalisa Acaicia are separate camps - they even have separate entrances. SA is newer, about three years old and our camp for two nights. Four tents. its' own kitchen and staff and very private. We liked it immediately upon entering. Settled in and,

 

Our greeters at the camp plunge pool in for guests but taken over by wildlife, thank goodness.. I have no need for a plunge pool.I'd rather the wildlife enjoy it.

 

 

 

 

Out tent looked right over this pool to the left and was convenient so in the evening we really did not need an escort and in such a private camp could move around a bit more easily, not having to WAIT. I hate the wait. I want to get out immediately and will splash water on my face and expect someone to be there to take me "wherever". Not a lurker in a tent.

 

The tents were lovely with a deck and great views as opposed to Somalisa Main which looked dreary to me...Nothing to see!

 

Sorry, I just forgot to take pics, or I accidentally deleted them in a file I had made on Tents....oh well in my rush to get this out I am making many mistakes; so forgive me. I truly love to show the camps as well. But I'd stay there longer!

 

Our campmates were Craig, and a British couple, well traveled, about 25 safaris! I sure love folks like that at my dinner table.

 

Hwange was full of elephants; we were really only there for 3 game drives- one was a walk.

 

The first morning drive out came to a quick halt, when driving by the tents and a few hundred feet; Jud and Craig at the same time yell. DOGS!!

 

 

then they stroll over to the water pan

 

 

We sit and watch hoping more would show up, or some action may occur but they scurry away. It was lovely to see; and we were hoping we'd find more as we motored about.

 

That evening while eating the elephants returned; slurping the water from the "plunge pool"; Craig suggests we crawl over to it and sit with them. Awesome. So in a line we are crawling, silenty...on hand and knees.....the British woman decides to join us - she became a Craig convert; we crawl up a couple wooden steps on to the platform and sit....STILL. They NO LESS than 10 feet from us happily drinking; Mesmerizing.

 

it was AMAZING and deserves all caps. Naturally we could not photo this....But four elephants within a long arms length, waving their trunks up and in......down and up.....no clue four humans are right in front. Four humans, four elies, sharing a drink.

 

So unexpected; a true "in the moment"experience coming to us; we never had to leave the camp. I've never ever thought I'd be so very close while an elie was slurping water...... Or on any safari experience......we will NEVER forget how close we were in the dark watching four happy elies with their "after dinner" drinks.

 

We were all elated at we gathered to giggle and "high five" Craig over this experience.

 

If the safari had ended that night, I'd still be on a high

Edited October 13, 2014 by graceland

[marg]

who or what group collared the dog?

[egilio]

Probably Painted Dog Conservation Zimbabwe who do great work in Hwange on the protection of wild dogs. I think I remember them putting on those wide collars with spike as they help protect the animal from being snared. The snared will get caught by the spikes and tighten where the collar is, thus not injuring the neck.

[wilddog]

@@marg as Egilio says Painted Dog Conservation Project collar the dogs. The collars were designed for PDC some years ago. The project has been running in Hwange since about 1992 and more recently they have worked in Mana Pools also.

 

Information on the project can be found at http://www.painteddog.org/ and also up to date news can be found on Facebook. Worth a visit if you are ever at that end of Hwange.

[graceland]

@@marg, the folks at PDC came over to camp after lunch to see for themselves if they could find the dogs, and talk to us about their project. The camp had emailed them that the dogs were at the tents/water.

 

Really enjoyable and in return I gave them the lowdown on "Safaritalk" and all the Wild Dog aficionados gathered here. He was quite enthusiastic and I asked him to contact Game Warden for perhaps an interview, info etc.

[Game Warden]

We as a group of Safaritalk members actually raised around 1000 US$ for the PDC to buy/renew anti snare collars: you can read about it here.

 

Wow, back in 2008...

[wilddog]

and @@Game Warden did an interview with Greg in 2008 which can be seen here http://safaritalk.net/topic/2305-greg-rasmussen-painted-dog-conservation/

[Soukous]

 

Wow! you certainly had some amazing sightings in Matusadona. Lions and leopards - very exceptional. and 8kg of luggage? seriously? My camera gear weighs twice that.

@@Soukous, it is pretty obvious I do not carry "camera gear"!

 

I post pics to help the story line but they are not from a serious camera or photographer ( and a blurry eye pattern persists!) By now everyone is aware. so I dont even try to compete in the photo section!

 

 

we'll have to work on that. With so many amazings sightings you could bring back some terrific photos - and - as I am certain he is a perfect gentleman - Jud could carry the camera gear for you.