My Nat-Geo-Moments Safari

[twaffle]

I suppose I don’t really know what I was expecting of the Triangle. I didn’t realise that it would be so different from the Narok side. It has been a long time since I was on that side, my last visit was mainly in the Triangle with only a short drive around the Musiara marsh area.

 

My impressions were of well maintained roads; very strict rules about off roading so that the beautiful grasslands were certainly preserved in good condition; vast rolling plains; high, thick grass; fairly sparse plains game; almost no tourists … it was hard to see across some of the grasslands and if an animal of interest was in the middle of some of these plains, there would be no way to see it. Of course, for the animals this is all a positive change from the old days of driving anywhere for anything but for photography it becomes harder to get close ups. You have to rely on finding animals close to the road.

 

We stopped for lunch near the border at a picnic site under a shady tree. It had some rustic tables and logs to sit on so we were in great comfort whilst eating.

[twaffle]

After a short stop by the Mara Bridge we headed back towards the Serena on the road closest to the river. There were giraffe and various other grazers but then Daniel became very still, staring into the distance. We stopped whilst he decided if he had seen anything significant when he suddenly said, rhino, over there. I looked and looked through the grass, not seeing it when this rock started to move.

Sure enough, a black rhino was slowly coming out of a hollow and moving towards our direction. Daniel said that we were lucky because the rhino had been wallowing in a mud hole and his hide was wet and therefore, shiny in the sun. I felt very fortunate for this sighting, even though he was at quite a distance and I couldn’t get a clear view of him, it was such an experience. Rhinos on both my recent Mara visits.

[twaffle]

Everyday, so far, had thrown us something special although I know it isn’t always so, I was just incredibly lucky and had an extraordinarily canny and intuitive guide.

 

By this stage it was time to head back towards camp so we headed off to see if the lion pride had moved yet, as it was on our way home.

 

The big male had been joined by another male and they had a brief argument but were in thick rushes and I couldn’t see them well enough for a photo. The lionesses and their cubs all moved off to climb onto a large pile of rocks and dirt giving me some nice photo opportunities.

[twaffle]

The women and children looking down on the male! As it should be....

 

The aftermath of the argument.

 

The family.

 

Cub with attitude.

[twaffle]

We ambled slowly out of the Triangle, seeing this Wattle Plover on the way.

 

I found the Lilac Breasted Rollers particularly difficult to photograph this trip so I've settled on this one to give you some idea of how they were behaving!

 

 

Nearing the Oloololo Gate was this Augur Buzzard.

[twaffle]

Back in the Mara North Conservancy we came across this Long Crested Eagle. Sadly I missed the focus on this one, but he was so handsome I thought I'd include him anyway.

 

There were many zebra foals, some tiny new borns and some slightly older.

 

The sun set on another fabulous day, but the realisation that I only had one full day left made me feel incredibly sad.

[Jan]

Twaffle, I just don't want this to end!

 

 

Jan

[twaffle]

Thanks Jan, I guess I'll just have to go on safari again.

[Jan]

At least twice a year Twaffle. Your report has been such a pleasure to read, thankyou.

 

 

Jan

[Atravelynn]

I liked that roller picture! And I appreciate your impressions of the Mara Triangle, along with ....s at a busier time of year.

 

I hope your father is not in too much pain with a broken hand. I'm sure he appreciates your assistance.

 

The next installment will suffice until things slow down for you.

[Leely]

Sorry to read about your father's hand, twaffle. You certainly have a lot on your plate right now. I hope your beautiful photos can transport you back to Kenya when you need a "Calgon" moment.

 

Take care.

[twaffle]

The trouble with being transported back on safari is that it makes me long for more and then reality sinks in!

 

I wasn't the only one who had some interesting experiences whilst I was in the Mara. We met a couple who had seen the male lion from the pride above just before we did in the morning and the woman had had an amazing thing happen to her. The lion backed up to the 4x4 and sprayed the vehicle, but as they had an open one it went straight inside and all over her face! Talk about taking home the smells of Africa!

[pault]

I wasn't the only one who had some interesting experiences whilst I was in the Mara. We met a couple who had seen the male lion from the pride above just before we did in the morning and the woman had had an amazing thing happen to her. The lion backed up to the 4x4 and sprayed the vehicle, but as they had an open one it went straight inside and all over her face! Talk about taking home the smells of Africa!

 

I had a dream - sort of a nightmare but not very scary - where this happened, but it did not go over the face. That smell is a particularly rich one. Hope she doesn't have cats at home - they'd freak out.

 

Still reading and enjoying text and pictures very much.

[Atravelynn]

Being "marked" on safari would be a new experience.

 

I know there are many Daniels in the safari business, but do you have some background on your Daniel or a picture? I've encountered some Daniels in Kenya. Background would include time at Lewa Downs, work at Mara River Camp.

[twaffle]

Lynn, there is a picture of Daniel somewhere in this report. He hasn't worked at any other reserves and hasn't been to Lewa. His family live in the Mara area and like the other Serian guides he has attended the Koiyaki guiding school.

[twaffle]

The penultimate sunrise in the Mara was stunning, and despite feeling that I needed more time I knew that I had been blessed with some great sightings given the time of year and had enjoyed wonderful, varied weather and met fascinating people.

 

[twaffle]

This last day was to be spent in the Mara North Conservancy and I really didn’t do it justice. Having only had one other game drives plus this one day was not nearly enough and we saw only a very small part of the area.

 

We heard the alarm calls of monkeys in the distant trees and Kimansi made his way over towards this copse of trees surrounding a small creek. We could see the monkeys all staring in one direction, their distinctive barks ringing out over the plains, and we knew that there was some sort of predator nearby.

 

We very carefully and slowly drove through the trees on a track which wound along the creek’s edge, seeing nothing. Then we circled the whole copse in one direction and then the other. Still nothing. Eventually, we decided to leave the monkeys to their warnings and the predator to its’ hunting and headed off in a different direction. I don’t know what made Daniel take a last look behind us towards the trees, but as he searched with binoculars I also glanced around not expecting to see anything. Suddenly a leopard leapt out from behind some thick reeds and dashed towards the tree line. It had been hiding more or less out in the open the whole time we had been staring at and between the trees. No time for a photo but the fact that we saw her at all was a bonus.

[twaffle]

We passed inumerable herds of plains game and this very handsome elephant.

 

[twaffle]

Some 40 minutes after leaving camp we found a couple of lionesses from one of the local prides. They were busy with their morning cleaning ritual when one of the lionesses stopped what she was doing and looked into the distance with an intense gaze.

 

 

 

[twaffle]

We noticed a 4x4 from one of the neighbouring camps drive along the edge of some bushes and trees, then stop, turn and drive off. Nothing over in the direction the lionness was gazing at however Daniel suggested we drive over that way ourselves.

 

About 10 m from where the other vehicle turned around we found the rest of the pride. A magnificent male lion known as Caesar, some cubs and another lionness or two. I wondered how often we had just missed some special sighting and decided that it was better not to know.

 

 

For more information on these lions you can go to the Living with Lions website

http://www.livingwithlions.org/mara/

[twaffle]

As we watched, the large male casually lifted up the carcass at his feet, letting the head of the topi hang loosely.

 

 

 

The cub looked on enviously, and I’m really annoyed to find out that I focussed on a silly bit of grass instead of the cub or the male.

 

[twaffle]

This little cub crept closer and closer to us, obviously quite curious.

 

 

He certainly is a magnificent creature, in his prime. I was glad to see him at such close quarters.

 

[twaffle]

Leaving the lions to their breakfast we headed down to Leopard Gorge in the hopes that we would see one of these elusive cats. This area has been made famous by the Big Cat Diaries documentaries and I was surprised to see how non de script and small it looked. Some large, imposing fig trees towered over the ridge of rocky ground with plenty of hiding places for a leopard and her cubs. Sadly, we weren't to see any this time but we did see some rock hyrax sunning themselves.

 

[twaffle]

Exploring the region down towards Off Beat Mara we wound our way through small valleys and gorges and over some more wide open plains.

 

This zebra seemed to have a friendship going with this starling.

 

 

 

Zebras in silhouette with the wide open plains below.

 

[twaffle]

Daniel and Kimansi prepared our last breakfast together out in the bush.

 

 

We watched a minor argument between vulture and eagle.

 

 

Daniel looking for something interesting.