My Nat-Geo-Moments Safari

[twaffle]

I hadn't seen this many bat eared foxes before. We thought this one was on his own, but when he ran off another two rushed out of a burrow and headed off too.

 

 

Heading back to camp we passed this interesting Maasai cattle kraal. I liked the geometric view of the structure from this low angle.

 

[twaffle]

For one of the few occasions I was back in camp for lunch and it felt quite strange to have more than just Daniel and Kimansi to socialise with. I tried to think of all the things I wanted to find out and all the questions I should have asked but oddly enough, nothing came to mind at all.

 

After a short break we headed back out on to the conservancy. First we drove around to the side of Serian to see if we could find the leopard Zawadi (also featured heavily on Big Cat Diary) as she had been seen with a small cub. This was her nursery hang out, right next to the tents of the camp but although we looked several times we didn't see her. She was seen during me visit but just not when we were around. It appeared as if we only missed her by a small margin this time as we saw and heard the alarm calls of a troop of baboons but looking into the fig tree we couldn't see anything. As it turns out, they had trapped Zawadi up the top of the tree and it was almost impossible to see her. Mark was lucky enough to catch a sight of her about half an hour later but by then we were some distance away.

 

During our fruitless search we surprised this hippo was was having an early graze. Startled, it ran in a very sprightly manner back to the river.

 

[twaffle]

I didn't feel that I'd photographed enough zebras so during our last game drive I tried to concentrate on getting a few additional images for my files.

 

I thought this zebra foal was a little large for suckling still.

 

 

I waited for quite a while hoping that these zebra would lift their heads but they were too busy grazing to be bothered with us.

 

 

The thorn trees were out in flower, quite pretty.

 

[twaffle]

I hadn't seen one of these Goliath Herons before, well at least I couldn't remember seeing one. They are fine looking birds.

 

[twaffle]

We had visited Leopard Gorge again, and again we had no luck but as we travelled back towards camp we came across another, different pride of lions.

 

 

 

 

 

Whilst we were there, a 4x4 approached followed closely by a MRC rangers vehicle. Apparently the vehicle had crossed over from the Mara Reserve without paying a conservancy fee and the rangers were on to it quick smart. We could see an argument ensuing, but the rangers let the tourists in the back of the vehicle watch the lions before having a serious chat with the driver about the fee.

[twaffle]

I knew the day was almost over and as the light started to fade on my last Mara night I took a few last photos.

 

This hartebeest had taken over the prime topi position on this very large termite mound.

 

 

An impala and young fawn took flight as we neared them.

 

[twaffle]

Back we went to see if Zawadi had emerged from where ever it was that she was hiding, not knowing at this stage about her earlier sighting.

 

Although we didn't see her, I managed to get a photograph of this fine tree which was covered in cobwebs. I had never seen such a thing before and found it quite fascinating.

 

 

The little valley next to camp where the staff have set up a soccer pitch (not in view) down by the river. These buffalo looked very content.

 

 

We reached camp after another fantastic day out in the bush. Knowing that I only had the morning left as my plane took off at 4pm, I had decided to walk through some of the private conservancy leased by Serian and have a look at the Treehouse on the escarpment. Besides, I wanted to get the gps co-ords for Nyama of this place as well, so it seemed like a good excuse to stretch my legs after so many days sitting in a Land Cruiser.

[madaboutcheetah]

Twaffle,

 

That's a stunning sunrise......... see if you can print that on canvas to put up where you have an empty wall.

[twaffle]

Thanks Hari, I'll have to take down some other Africa print.

[madaboutcheetah]

Can't believe Zawadi has another litter of cubs? I saw her I think in 2002 with 2 cubs at incidently, Leopard Gorge.

[samburumags]

Twaffle your photographs are stunning. A little advice for a poor amateur with only a lowly Canon A640 - is it worth my while buying an extra lense? I have had some good shots with the camera but it would be great to improve.

[Atravelynn]

I think you posted 2 shots of Daniel. Thanks.

 

Love the lion cub photos. That zebra foal is even older than the topi who was suckling from mom. Perhaps it is a trend in the Mara.

[pault]

It's a pity that it is going to end soon - maybe you can start at the beginning all over again? Thanks for the lion watch link - my guide mentioned this last year but I forgot all about it. However, it is either very difficult to identify lions or there are lots of new ones about! I can identify the old boy with trhe slack jaw in your pictures, though. The picture of the hartebeest is unusual and I think my favorite of the recent pictures, although the zebra 'foal" suckling is great too. The dightings go on and on. Fabulous!

 

Lynn.... Are you not talking to me? Do you think we took our cheetah pics at exactly thet same location, at different points in time? (Don't answer that if you are not talking to me! )

[Leely]

Ave, Caesar!

 

Now that's a lion.

 

/And yes, the hartebeest is a lovely shot!

[twaffle]

Thanks everyone, glad you liked the hartebeest. They don't get much press next to the pretty colours of the topi.

 

Samburumags - having better lenses and cameras is great if you are fanatical about your photos and can be bothered changing lenses. But if it is going to annoy you that you have the wrong lens on at the wrong time, and then you risk missing the great shot, don't bother. The more lenses, the bigger pain (and not just to your wallet). Atravelynn gets wonderful photos and I'm pretty sure that she doesn't take an DSLR, perhaps you could start another thread as there is a wide range of cameras and users here.

 

 

Leely, isn't he just a great looking lion.

[Dot]

Outstanding Twaffle!

I'm so jealous!

[twaffle]

Thanks Dot, I'm also jealous everytime someone heads off on safari and I'm left behind.

[Dot]

Should be a law against it!

[samburumags]

You could come with me Twaffle and help me with my photos! Thanks for the tip re lenses.

[Sangeeta]

Twaffle - your report was the first thing I read here after many months away... what a heartwarming and beguiling story you write and your pictures are incredible! Thank you for transporting me back to the Mara - you cannot imagine how thrilling it was for me to see those rock hydraxes at Leopard Gorge - they look JUST like the ones we saw there doing exactly the same thing one morning 4 years ago. It's so reassuring to see that some things have remained the same in this crazy world of ours. They had started to build that hotel when we were there and I was sure that it was going to irrevocably change the area.

[twaffle]

Would love to travel with you Samburumags and with anyone else heading off into sub saharan Africa.

 

Sangeeta, The lodge at Leopard Gorge has almost been totally dismantled so it just shows what power people can have. It was against all the rules of the MNC and unlike some of the things reported recently on ST about the Mara Reserve, perhaps some areas of the greater Mara system are taking the rules seriously.

 

Leopard Gorge was nothing like I expected it to be and although I didn't see leopards there, I was very glad to have seen it and could put it into context. The hyraxes were almost invisible!

[madaboutcheetah]

Twaffle,

 

How was Qatar airways, and your experience of flying through Doha and the airport there? Is it chaotic like Dubai or different?

 

Only reason I ask, this is an optional routing for future for me.

 

Thanks

Hari

[twaffle]

Hari, I've flown Emirates and Qatar on the Aust - Nbo route and have to say that the Qatar experience wins easily for me. I fly economy (sadly ) and found the leg room better, flight attendents friendlier and food much nicer. Having said that, the previous trip they missed all my husbands vegetarian meals but went out of their way to find something else.

 

If you fly business/first, Doha has a completely separate terminal which you can see a bit of through windows, it looks fantastic. The regular terminal is not as fancy as Dubai, not as many shops and restaurants but it is pretty efficient. No aerobridges but the buses are modern and fast. It just seems to work. If you are an economy pax you can pay $40 to access a business lounge for up to 6 hrs (I think it is 6) which gives you all the services of a normal business class lounge. Free food, drinks, Internet access and computers, very comfortable lounges, showers, big screen tvs etc. Works for me.

 

I check out airlines on skytrax because they ebb and flow as far as quality. Qatar's in flight entertainment is not quite as extensive as Emirates but then I don't think anyones is.

 

Either is way better than most American or European offerings IMHO!

 

Hope that helps!

[samburumags]

I can only give my opinion on Kenya Airways from Heathrow, but they have always been excellent both in economy and first. I look forward to seeing them again in September.

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks for the thorough information, Twaffle. I will be looking for alternatives to Emirates in a year or so - since their rules regarding the Skywards program has changed and it isn't as lucrative as in years gone by!

 

I also hear that Jet Airways is due to start the Mumbai-JNB route pending approvals. So, I'm keeping my eye on that too!